|
There is something wrong between my Archer C7 that I just bought and my Canon MP560 printer. If I go to Devices and Printers (Win7), it shows as offline but I can log into the printer via the IP address and I can remotely scan. If I try and print it tells me it's offline. So it's there, online, and I can reach it from my computer but I can't print to it. If I have documents in the print queue and reboot my computer they will print. 
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2015 08:02
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 30, 2024 08:00 |
|
|
wormil posted:There is something wrong between my Archer C7 that I just bought and my Canon MP560 printer. If I go to Devices and Printers (Win7), it shows as offline but I can log into the printer via the IP address and I can remotely scan. If I try and print it tells me it's offline. So it's there, online, and I can reach it from my computer but I can't print to it. If I have documents in the print queue and reboot my computer they will print. Your printer driver probably doesn't have the right IP address for the printer because the printer got a new one from the router's DHCP server. Most printer drivers will attempt to find the printer on the network but some don't/are badly written. If you go into the printer properties and look at the Ports tab you should be able to add the new IP manually, or there may be a little program in the printer software that can attempt to automatically update the IP.
|
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2015 08:53
|
|
|
Rexxed posted:Your printer driver probably doesn't have the right IP address for the printer because the printer got a new one from the router's DHCP server. Most printer drivers will attempt to find the printer on the network but some don't/are badly written. If you go into the printer properties and look at the Ports tab you should be able to add the new IP manually, or there may be a little program in the printer software that can attempt to automatically update the IP. edit; ip is dynamic but there is nowhere in the driver properties or port settings to change the ip. Forgot to mention, I set this using WPS buttons on the router and printer. edit2; fixed wormil fucked around with this message at 18:14 on Jul 10, 2015 |
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2015 17:07
|
|
|
wormil posted:
WPS is pretty terrible. You could reinstall the printer drivers if you can't find the ports setting/IP address change. I'd grab the latest no bullshit version from the manufacturer's website if there's one available.
|
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2015 18:09
|
|
|
Rexxed posted:WPS is pretty terrible. You could reinstall the printer drivers if you can't find the ports setting/IP address change. I'd grab the latest no bullshit version from the manufacturer's website if there's one available. Fixed. I removed the printer and then I was able to use the Canon network tool to detect and help me reinstall it. I believe that you were essentially right about the port but there was just no way for me to manually change the settings. When I tried, it gave me a message to the effect of there is nothing to change, something like that. And running the Canon network tool while the printer was installed did nothing. Hopefully it stays fixed.
|
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2015 18:17
|
|
|
I switched from Comcast Xfinity to AT&T UVerse this morning, and AT&T has been extremely unhelpful in listing what third party modems are compatible. The party line is that their RG absolutely must be used in all circumstances, which I find hard to believe. I had previously purchased an ASUS RT-N66W and a Motorola Surfboard SB6141. I've been totally satisfied with my setup for the last year, as it's the longest I've ever gone without hardware issues. Does anyone have experience with UVerse, or am I in the wrong thread?
|
|
#
?
Jul 11, 2015 13:50
|
|
|
Aggro posted:I switched from Comcast Xfinity to AT&T UVerse this morning, and AT&T has been extremely unhelpful in listing what third party modems are compatible. The party line is that their RG absolutely must be used in all circumstances, which I find hard to believe. I don't have any experience with Comcast, but I can tell you that AT&T doesn't take IPv6 seriously (or they do take it seriously, but as a threat rather than an opportunity, because OH NO SOMEONE MIGHT ACTUALLY DO MORE THAN MINDLESSLY CONSUME WITH OUR SERVICE), and their IPTV is somewhere between nonstandard and just plain weird, and that yes they are that restrictive about hardware. In theory it's VDSL2, but if it's like how they provision anything else it's not going to talk to any modem you can get (and not just because they hand down provisioning to their own gateway at start-up). Also you can't get a true bridge mode out of their gateway, and see my previous post about AT&T. For whoever asked, I did end up going to Time Warner, in the end, and I was very pleasantly surprised by their improvement in the intervening four years or so. If your choices are Comcast and AT&T you may simply be screwed. dont be mean to me fucked around with this message at 14:10 on Jul 11, 2015 |
|
#
?
Jul 11, 2015 14:07
|
|
|
Aggro posted:I switched from Comcast Xfinity to AT&T UVerse this morning, and AT&T has been extremely unhelpful in listing what third party modems are compatible. The party line is that their RG absolutely must be used in all circumstances, which I find hard to believe. Only the gateways that AT&T themselves provide will work with U-Verse. There are zero third party options.
|
|
#
?
Jul 11, 2015 14:21
|
|
|
Diviance posted:Only the gateways that AT&T themselves provide will work with U-Verse. There are zero third party options. Wow, that is goddamn crazy. Googling around shows that some enterprising people have used a RT-N66U behind the AT&T modem/router to good effect (larger range, faster speeds, etc). It seems to require a little more advanced networking than I've done in the past, but it sounds like a worthwhile endeavor.
|
|
#
?
Jul 11, 2015 15:19
|
|
|
When I had uverse the router had a "super dmz" setting that was essentially bridge mode.
|
|
#
?
Jul 11, 2015 16:25
|
|
|
The DMZ Plus mode is still broken and does NAT with a translation limit of 1024 combined UDP/TCP sessions. The dude thought it was working in the first post too, but found out that it's actually not in the second post. http://www.dslreports.com/forum/r27638741-DMZ-PLUS-sortof-misleading-name-different-experience and someone commented quote:This is a well known issue. This along with 300c TCP session timeout etc. is basically just a software approach in limiting how much bandwidth a single uverse user can consume. DaNzA fucked around with this message at 22:53 on Jul 11, 2015 |
|
#
?
Jul 11, 2015 22:50
|
|
|
Lease time 10 minutes. That's short enough for the lease to expire before it's renegotiated. I actually found out you pretty much have to turn a DMZplus IP assignment into a static declaration to keep streams alive. And that pretty much nothing will make bridge mode work with IPv6, because they responded to packet fragmentation attacks by disabling ICMPv6. If you know about IPv6 you know that kills IPv6 handshaking, but given that also makes using IPv6 behind a second router impossible AT&T probably considers that a bonus. dont be mean to me fucked around with this message at 23:04 on Jul 11, 2015 |
|
#
?
Jul 11, 2015 22:53
|
|
|
Aggro posted:Wow, that is goddamn crazy. Googling around shows that some enterprising people have used a RT-N66U behind the AT&T modem/router to good effect (larger range, faster speeds, etc). It seems to require a little more advanced networking than I've done in the past, but it sounds like a worthwhile endeavor. When I had U-Verse, I did use an AC66U as an add-on router, sorta, with their gateway. Which really only helped my wifi speeds and LAN speeds between devices. Going out to the net still left me stuck with their godawful router limitations. Torrenting would make that gateway just crawl along. I jumped ship to Charter when they brought in faster speeds than AT&T in my area and completely dropped their data caps. Not a better company but... still.
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2015 03:25
|
|
|
I need a recommendation for a router, as the OP is out of date. I've been using the wireless router that my ISP provides, some Motorola thing, and it's been *fine*. I just built a new gaming PC, which is great, except I can't seem to get a consistent connection to this router. I've worked with my ISP's tech support and everytime I run their speed test I'm pulling 1mb down on a 5 mb connection, assuming I can even get the thing to run because of the random disconnections. I put a laptop right next to it, and I'm getting the same crappy connection, so I believe it to be an issue with the location and the router having issues reaching it. It's actually not that far apart (room right next to the machine), but it's an apartment and who knows what's in the walls between the two. So, I need to add a router that's going to be able to get a solid, consistent signal the 15 feet and through a wall required to get the job done. While I'm not a big fan of lighting money on fire, I'm willing to pay for the product that's going to best do the job (within reason). Seems like most "higher end" routers are in the $200-$250 range, which is acceptable. Other considerations (maybe): 1) I'm in Canada 2) The wireless card in the machine is a TP-LINK TL-WDN4800. If anyone suspects that might be the issue, I'd be interested in hearing that, too. I've spent a good amount on building the machine, and to not be getting the performance I want because of this issue is kinda frustrating. Thanks for any suggestions or feedback in advance.
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2015 00:39
|
|
|
Diviance posted:When I had U-Verse, I did use an AC66U as an add-on router, sorta, with their gateway. Which really only helped my wifi speeds and LAN speeds between devices. Going out to the net still left me stuck with their godawful router limitations. Torrenting would make that gateway just crawl along. For an update that likely no one cares about : I did manage to hook up my router through the NVG589 using the guide provided here. The only troubleshooting was opening more DHCPv4 addresses (the guide suggested only keeping 4 open, and my WAP didn't work until I allowed for more). My download speeds jumped from 12 Mbps to 23. I've had no issues streaming or torrenting so far. The only downside is that because my phone and TVs are on separate networks, it's rendered the UVerse app useless. Whatever. So, it is possible to use a third party router with UVerse. It's just not an ideal or pleasant experience.
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2015 00:55
|
|
|
MikeyKins posted:I need a recommendation for a router, as the OP is out of date. I've never used an ISP wifi router but I universally read they are to be avoided. The Asus routers are hot faves right now and many like the TPLink Archer C7,8,9 routers.
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2015 20:13
|
|
|
I am buying a house, closing this Thursday, and I am gonna have it all wired up. I want to use that Ubiquiti company's wall-mount APs. Should I plan for one per room, or what? Do I need one of their switches, or will any switch with PoE ports work? Any other crap I should be thinking about as a new homeowner wiring up his house? I am completely clueless, I read the OP but it appears to be kinda out of date?
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2015 21:02
|
|
|
signalnoise posted:I am buying a house, closing this Thursday, and I am gonna have it all wired up. I want to use that Ubiquiti company's wall-mount APs. Should I plan for one per room, or what? Do I need one of their switches, or will any switch with PoE ports work? Any other crap I should be thinking about as a new homeowner wiring up his house? It will depend on the size/layout of your house on how many APs you need but one per room is almost certainly overkill. Most APs are powerful enough that one placed in the center of your house should be enough but if you can post some info about square footage and general shape of your house we might be able to give you some advice on how many and where to place them. Are you planning on running network cable to each room or just WiFi? The APs come with POE injectors so you don't even need a POE switch, just one with enough ports to plug everything in. One other thing to keep in mind is that APs are designed to be mounted on ceilings, not walls. Their antennas are configured to create a doughnut shaped area of coverage so you want them mounted on the ceiling (or floor I guess) to provide the widest area of coverage.
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2015 21:41
|
|
|
signalnoise posted:I am buying a house, closing this Thursday, and I am gonna have it all wired up. I want to use that Ubiquiti company's wall-mount APs. Should I plan for one per room, or what? Do I need one of their switches, or will any switch with PoE ports work? Any other crap I should be thinking about as a new homeowner wiring up his house? I had my two story home pre wired with cat5e when it was built. I have one Unifi AP on each floor and they cover the entire house just fine. The APs come with PoE injectors so you can use any old random switch. I have a TP-LINK TL-SG1016 and it works fine with the APs. The APs also come with wall mounting hardware although you don't have to use it unless you want to. The controller software can be a bit of a pain to get running but once its running its really nice. Just be sure you download the latest version from their site. Now the APs I have are 2.4ghz only models and 2.4ghz has more natural range and penetrates walls and other solid objects much better than 5ghz does. If you go with AP Pros or the AC APs that support 5ghz operation you may need more APs to provide 5ghz coverage across the whole house. You will still need something to act as a router though. The EdgerouterX is really nice or you can use a consumer wifi router and just turn off the wifi or even leave it on as an additional AP. If you are really technical you can build a MiniITX PC and stick a router distro like pfSense on it. As for more general advice, get an ethernet drop put in every room where you even think you might want it, and on more than one wall, even every wall in some rooms where you expect to have TVs or PCs. Adding more ethernet drops in later is a serious pain in the rear end once the drywall goes up and paying $20 or whatever per drop before hand is more than worth it. Antillie fucked around with this message at 21:54 on Jul 13, 2015 |
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2015 21:47
|
|
|
Krailor posted:It will depend on the size/layout of your house on how many APs you need but one per room is almost certainly overkill. Most APs are powerful enough that one placed in the center of your house should be enough but if you can post some info about square footage and general shape of your house we might be able to give you some advice on how many and where to place them. I want to have one or two RJ45 jacks in each room plus have wireless all over the house. It's a split-level with 4 bedrooms upstairs and a finished lower level. quote:One other thing to keep in mind is that APs are designed to be mounted on ceilings, not walls. Their antennas are configured to create a doughnut shaped area of coverage so you want them mounted on the ceiling (or floor I guess) to provide the widest area of coverage. Antillie posted:As for more general advice, get an ethernet drop put in every room where you even think you might want it, and on more than one wall, even every wall in some rooms where you expect to have TVs or PCs. Adding more ethernet drops in later is a serious pain in the rear end once the drywall goes up and paying $20 or whatever per drop before hand is more than worth it.
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2015 22:01
|
|
|
I'm thinking of running some ethernet cable. My only coax cable drop into the house (where the internet comes in) is right next to the TV (purple X). My router and everything is all there, and I'm happy with that. However, I need to get a cable to the red X, in the next bedroom (framed in yellow). Running cable through the inside of an exterior facing, insulated wall sounds like a nightmare. The house is wood framed stucco, and the interior is textured drywall, the house is about 15 years old. The ceilings are way tall, with no attic or crawlspace. The half-rear end cable installers would probably just drill a hole outside, run a cable along the roof line, and then drill another hole on the other end. I don't want to be a half-rear end cable installer homeowner, I want to give it a whole rear end effort. I'm concerned that that approach will look ugly on the outside and could cause moisture barrier issues. I have a phone jack in that bedroom that goes to *somewhere*. I don't know if that helps me, but it at least gives me a convenient hole to work in. It probably terminates at the electrical/phone box on the east side of the garage about halfway down. That little built in niche is a cabinet in the wall with the TV. I'm considering getting some flat ethernet cable and running it along the inside of my baseboards, under the front door's kick plate (in green) and then pulling it through the wall to terminate in a keystone plug on the far side. My baseboards are 5 inches tall, and have a groove in the back that would probably fit one of those flat ethernet cables. For as annoying as doing baseboards is (I did them all when I retiled the floors), I think it's going to be way easier than punching holes in the walls. Does that sound like a weird idea? 
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2015 01:12
|
|
|
I just picked up an Archer C7. Seems like a beastly router, though I haven't hooked it up yet. Is it good with the stock firmware or should I swap to OpenWrt? I'm leaning towards stock, but I'd go for OpenWrt if the performance is significantly better.
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2015 02:14
|
|
|
canyoneer posted:I'm thinking of running some ethernet cable. My only coax cable drop into the house (where the internet comes in) is right next to the TV (purple X). My router and everything is all there, and I'm happy with that. However, I need to get a cable to the red X, in the next bedroom (framed in yellow). Have you considered a pair of powerline adapters? You would plug one into an outlet near your router and the other into an outlet close to the red x. Throughput would be about 80-200 megabits, and the connection should be fairly stable as long as your house electrical wiring isn't too weird. You can check smallnetbuilder or search around on Amazon for specific models.
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2015 02:35
|
|
|
signalnoise posted:I am buying a house, closing this Thursday, and I am gonna have it all wired up. I want to use that Ubiquiti company's wall-mount APs. Should I plan for one per room, or what? Do I need one of their switches, or will any switch with PoE ports work? Any other crap I should be thinking about as a new homeowner wiring up his house? I have the Ubiquiti UniFi Long Range AP which I placed in about the center of my house 2000sq ft single story. It covers the entire house, plus my 1/2 acre lot and then some. Its been great, had it for a year and a half now, been running with zero issues. I have mine hanging off my non PoE linksys/cisco 24port switch. the unifi has its own poe adapter. I'm not sure if you can run it off of a PoE switch or its proprietary to the unifi one. niss fucked around with this message at 06:52 on Jul 14, 2015 |
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2015 06:49
|
|
|
I'm moving into a brand new apartment in a few weeks. As far as I can tell, there's no Ethernet installed, no centrally located power sockets, and no cable trunking to run cat6 through. (Seriously, who designs this poo poo?). But what it does have, is power sockets, and two coax jacks in every room you might want to put a TV in. If I can't get decent a WiFi signal to all the rooms, what's my best option to get a small wifi AP to each room. powerline or MoCA (Although, I can't seem to find any MoCA adapters in the UK)?
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2015 08:02
|
|
|
Killer Queen posted:I just picked up an Archer C7. Seems like a beastly router, though I haven't hooked it up yet. Is it good with the stock firmware or should I swap to OpenWrt? I'm leaning towards stock, but I'd go for OpenWrt if the performance is significantly better. Stock firmware is fine on all but the cheapest/shittiest of routers these days unless you need some obscure feature that only the 3rd party stuff supports. Installing 3rd party firmware isn't the requirement that it once was.
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2015 16:17
|
|
|
niss posted:I have the Ubiquiti UniFi Long Range AP which I placed in about the center of my house 2000sq ft single story. It covers the entire house, plus my 1/2 acre lot and then some. Its been great, had it for a year and a half now, been running with zero issues. I have mine hanging off my non PoE linksys/cisco 24port switch. the unifi has its own poe adapter. I'm not sure if you can run it off of a PoE switch or its proprietary to the unifi one. The standard UAP and UAP-LR are NOT 802.3af/at compliant. They use a funky non standard PoE implementation so a regular PoE switch will not work with them. The UAP-Pro requires 802.3af and the UAP-AC needs 802.3at (PoE+) so standard PoE switches are an option with them but you need to make sure your switch supports the standard that the AP is designed for.
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2015 16:21
|
|
|
Antillie posted:The standard UAP and UAP-LR are NOT 802.3af/at compliant. They use a funky non standard PoE implementation so a regular PoE switch will not work with them. The UAP-Pro requires 802.3af and the UAP-AC needs 802.3at (PoE+) so standard PoE switches are an option with them but you need to make sure your switch supports the standard that the AP is designed for. Can't you just get a managed poe switch that supports the voltage they specify?
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2015 16:27
|
|
|
I figured people would like an update on my situation (especially those that helped me...thanks again for that!). I got the Nighthawk A1900 for my birthday, I love it so far but the firmware doesn't feel as clean as the AC68U's. Granted that firmware apparently had bugs because the router kept crashing every day. I also got the SB6141 modem to go with it and my boyfriend helped me replace wires from the drop box as Cox put really lovely indoor wires outside in the blistering heat and snow so they were really weathered and falling apart. Hopefully this will all fix my internet problems with the router crashing, modem acting funny, and internet dying every 6 days or so. Now, I have a question. I'm used to how ASUS did their FTP thing...do I absolutely need Netgear's DNS thing to use the FTP outside of local WiFi/Ethernet?
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2015 18:19
|
|
|
signalnoise posted:Can't you just get a managed poe switch that supports the voltage they specify? PoE is typically measured in Watts not Volts. 802.3af/802.3at(Type1) is for devices that need 15W and 802.3at(Type2) for 30W devices. I'm going to guess that at the very least UAP-LR, which would require more power for increased transmission range, falls outside the standards. No 3rd party switch is going to add to the cost and complexity of their PoE delivery for edge cases like this. An injector supplied with the AP works fine.
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2015 20:10
|
|
|
Also, to add to my previous question, the router (Nighthark R7000) is has a message stating I have a firmware update. Do I have to do it if things seem to be going well or is it like Flash where if you don't update, poo poo goes to pieces?  I'm kind of weary about it since I think the firmware update on the AC68U caused the problems with the GUI crashing a lot.
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2015 22:00
|
|
|
ThermoPhysical posted:Now, I have a question. I'm used to how ASUS did their FTP thing...do I absolutely need Netgear's DNS thing to use the FTP outside of local WiFi/Ethernet? I don't know what DNS thing netgear includes but to get FTP access from outside you need 2 things: 1) know your computer's WAN address. A dynamic DNS service may help here but there's more than one available (I've been using changeip.com). 2) port forward the FTP ports through the router's firewall to your FTP server on your LAN. This isn't super secure but hopefully you have an up to date FTP server and strong username/password.
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2015 22:08
|
|
|
ThermoPhysical posted:Also, to add to my previous question, the router (Nighthark R7000) is has a message stating I have a firmware update. Do I have to do it if things seem to be going well or is it like Flash where if you don't update, poo poo goes to pieces? I picked up a netgear x6 to replace my AC66U that finally died this weekend. I left it on stock firmware for two days and then did the upgrade to see if there was a difference - I have not run into any quirks or weirdness after doing so. The router firmware was like 1.0.0, and it upgraded to 1.0.2.x I'd rather have it get unstable and weird right away when I can still return it, so far it's still running well.
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2015 22:08
|
|
|
ThermoPhysical posted:Also, to add to my previous question, the router (Nighthark R7000) is has a message stating I have a firmware update. Do I have to do it if things seem to be going well or is it like Flash where if you don't update, poo poo goes to pieces? If the update is not resolving some security issue, I'd say you're probably fine. But if you're relying on the router itself to let you know a new firmware has dropped, you may miss notification of future updates if it only lets you know that N+1 version is out. And that could be a potential pain in the rear end for any future security patches if they only update with deltas (you can tell because the release notes should have something like "must be using version NNN.nnn to apply this update").
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2015 22:09
|
|
|
Rexxed posted:I don't know what DNS thing netgear includes but to get FTP access from outside you need 2 things: The instructions state to set up a dynamic DNS using "NETGEAR Dynamic DNS" I suppose I'm not used to having to do that since the AC68U did that behind the scenes or something. Rakthar posted:I picked up a netgear x6 to replace my AC66U that finally died this weekend. I left it on stock firmware for two days and then did the upgrade to see if there was a difference - I have not run into any quirks or weirdness after doing so. The router firmware was like 1.0.0, and it upgraded to 1.0.2.x flosofl posted:If the update is not resolving some security issue, I'd say you're probably fine. But if you're relying on the router itself to let you know a new firmware has dropped, you may miss notification of future updates if it only lets you know that N+1 version is out. And that could be a potential pain in the rear end for any future security patches if they only update with deltas (you can tell because the release notes should have something like "must be using version NNN.nnn to apply this update"). It's good that the update didn't do anything. I'll keep an eye on the router if anything pops up weirdly and I'll bookmark the update page just in case something comes up that didn't show up on the router. Thanks!
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2015 22:27
|
|
|
I have a WRT54G running Tomato. Soon I will have a 100mbit internet connection. I'm going to guess it will not survive that much bandwidth. I only use the wired side, I have wireless disabled and use dedicated access points. I've been thinking of either buying a MikroTik router, something like the Nighthawk and putting OpenWRT or DD-WRT on it, or some other options. Any suggestions?
|
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2015 00:39
|
|
|
Boner Wad posted:I have a WRT54G running Tomato. Soon I will have a 100mbit internet connection. I'm going to guess it will not survive that much bandwidth. I only use the wired side, I have wireless disabled and use dedicated access points. If you like learning how to do technical things the mikrotik stuff is good, but it's nothing like a consumer router for ease of setup.
|
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2015 00:47
|
|
|
Looks like there's currently no way to do public password protected FTP on the Netgear R7000. It's pretty much admin-only OR public but no password. You're not able to set up guest accounts.
|
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2015 01:26
|
|
|
Rexxed posted:If you like learning how to do technical things the mikrotik stuff is good, but it's nothing like a consumer router for ease of setup. My first router I had was a FreeBSD box that I build running hostapd for an access point, so the more technical the better. I like having Tomato right now so I can ssh into it and run tcpdump if I need to. If I went the mikrotik direction, do I need to get one with a specific processor to handle the 100mbit internet connection?
|
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2015 01:33
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 30, 2024 08:00 |
|
|
Boner Wad posted:My first router I had was a FreeBSD box that I build running hostapd for an access point, so the more technical the better. I like having Tomato right now so I can ssh into it and run tcpdump if I need to. I doubt it unless you're doing a lot of VLANs or VPN stuff. Here's the Mikrotik thread: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3388528 Their wireless support isn't amazing but it's okay and it's always improving (mostly). Make sure you get a unit with gigabit ethernet ports. I'm sure someone who's used more than the RB750GL may have better advice so check out the mikrotik thread for more specific stuff.
|
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2015 01:57
|
|