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After ten thousand years I'm finally buying the rest of these parts. Have one last look at them, if you'd be so kind. PCPartPicker part list CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (Purchased For $249.00) CPU Cooler: ARCTIC Freezer i32 CPU Cooler ($31.00) Motherboard: ASRock Z170 Pro4S ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($117.00) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($85.00) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($97.00) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($55.00) Case: Thermaltake Versa H21 ATX Mid Tower Case ($40.00) Power Supply: Corsair RMx 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($103.00) Case Fan: ARCTIC F12 PWM 74.0 CFM 120mm Fan ($5.00) Case Fan: ARCTIC F12 PWM 74.0 CFM 120mm Fan ($5.00) Total: $787.00 Prices include 20% VAT - Bought the 6600K early because of a price drop of about $25 that I figured wouldn't last. It's not much more expensive now but hey, savings are savings. - Cryorig H7 has been out of stock for months, 212 EVO doesn't fit, going with a recommendation from Radish earlier in the thread. - Don't really care about motherboard features and I'm not going for any extreme overclocking so this one should hopefully do fine. Going with the ATX version since it has more power phases and I don't mind the size. - RAM not listed in either ASRock's or G.Skill's QVL but if it honest to goodness fails to function I can always return it and try a different set. - Going with a 250 GB SSD + 1 TB HDD over a 500 GB SSD. I don't mind trading some convenience for $20 plus having more space and two separate drives in case one ever fails. - Not really interested in spending any more than I have to on the case. This one was kindly recommended to me by Radish and is quite cheap. - 3 case fans total so I can try this positive pressure thing. The Z170 Pro4S specs say that "CHA_FAN1 can auto detect if 3-pin or 4-pin fan is in use", which to my mind implies that CHA_FAN2 can't, so I went with PWM fans. Let me know if there's a reason I shouldn't. As for the fans, they're cheap and seem to have good reviews, though people seem to mention short cables so let me know if that might be a problem with the case/motherboard I have. Could also switch to these if you figure they'd be better? - A PSU whose warranty I'm confident will outlive me. - Everything is from Vexio except for the SSD and HDD which are from 220volt. - GPU will be a 750 Ti, to be replaced with a generous friend's 970 soon. Thanks!
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May 25, 2016 21:45
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Switched.on posted:What country are you in? US of A How about something like this: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($349.99 @ Newegg) CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i v2 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($94.99 @ Newegg) Motherboard: ASRock Fatal1ty Z170 Gaming K4 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($123.98 @ Newegg) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($69.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($319.99 @ Amazon) Case: NZXT H440 (Matte Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.99 @ Directron) Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ Newegg) Other: GTX 1070 ($430.00) Total: $1545.92 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-25 16:52 EDT-0400 It should be amazing for OCing, very quiet and very fast overall. You could downgrade the SSD to a 500GB one and get a 2-3TB HDD instead if you need more space. I added $50 to the price of the 1070 since we don't know how much the nice aftermarket ones will be so you might save a bit there depending on how it works out.
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May 25, 2016 21:56
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:How about something like this: This is really great, I was thinking of trying a liquid cooled build and forgot to mention it. I feel like that gives me the option to buy a cooling block for the card too down the line, based on my earlier research on liquid cooling. Looks like I'd need a different pump setup if I go that route, though, but I don't think I'd bother to add it til later anyways. I like the idea of a big SSD so I'll probably just flex my budget enough to add another 2 TB platter drive. Thanks a lot!
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May 25, 2016 23:44
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Switched.on posted:This is really great, I was thinking of trying a liquid cooled build and forgot to mention it. I feel like that gives me the option to buy a cooling block for the card too down the line, based on my earlier research on liquid cooling. Looks like I'd need a different pump setup if I go that route, though, but I don't think I'd bother to add it til later anyways. I like the idea of a big SSD so I'll probably just flex my budget enough to add another 2 TB platter drive. Thanks a lot! You could try swapping out the 1TB Evo with a 1TB Mushkin Atlas. It's a full 100$ cheaper and they're still good, I use two of them in my system. Anandtech gave them a recommended bit, saying that the Evo isn't quite 60$ better than the Atlas. Doing so would let you swing that budget easier towards a big HDD with no real change in your current build's performance.
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May 25, 2016 23:59
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Switched.on posted:This is really great, I was thinking of trying a liquid cooled build and forgot to mention it. I feel like that gives me the option to buy a cooling block for the card too down the line, based on my earlier research on liquid cooling. Looks like I'd need a different pump setup if I go that route, though, but I don't think I'd bother to add it til later anyways. I like the idea of a big SSD so I'll probably just flex my budget enough to add another 2 TB platter drive. Thanks a lot! The H100i is an AIO(All In One) liquid cooler, you can't expand it to the GPU. Your options as far as liquid cooling goes are: 1) Wait for a GTX 1070 with a built in AIO to come out and buy that, you can mount the radiator and fan for it where the exhaust fan goes on the back of the case, this is the easiest option but will require you to wait for a GTX 1070 with a built in AIO to be released, that might happen right away or it might take an extra month.  2) Buy a decent GTX 1070, a separate 120mm AIO and a GPU bracket for it, this is more involved and you will need to remove the old cooler from the card, possibly heatsink the VRMs and VRAM chips and it gets pretty expensive for about the same results as buying a 1070 with a built in AIO. 3) There are AIOs that are expandable but they are expensive and require you to buy and install a GPU block($100-$120). 4) You can do a full custom loop, but this gets very expensive, like $600 or so to do the GPU and CPU and that is on the conservative side. You also need to maintain a loop, draining every 6-12 months, flushing out the radiators and so on, it's something that makes sense if you really need loads of cooling and want your computer to be essentially silent but I don't think it makes sense with a system like the one I speced out for you. I would go with option 1, it will get you very good cooling and very high overclocks on the card with a minimum of fuss. Maybe buy a 1070 from EVGA assuming they have a decent one early on and get the water cooled version via the step-up program later on?
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May 26, 2016 00:45
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Yeah, option 1 sounds the easiest, especially with that step up option which is pretty cool. I'll just grab the 1070 at launch and see how much more the AIO hydro version is when it comes out.
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May 26, 2016 00:54
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What are people's thoughts on water cooling? I see the new all in one sealed systems seem to be pretty good. I have the cooler master n200 case and cryorig h7 fan here in hand, but I was wondering about the corsair h60 or h100 radiator setup. Is it worth doing? The radiators are solid, yes? So I'm losing airflow via that fan slot? Cooler masters site for the n200 shows a 240mm radiator in front, occupying both fan slots, or a 120mm radiator in back. Wouldn't the 240mm in front preheat air entering the case? Seems counterproductive. Deviant fucked around with this message at 15:52 on May 26, 2016 |
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May 26, 2016 15:46
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Deviant posted:The radiators are solid, yes? So I'm losing airflow via that fan slot? Cooler masters site for the n200 shows a 240mm radiator in front, occupying both fan slots, or a 120mm radiator in back.
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May 26, 2016 15:57
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LogicalFallacy posted:The radiators are not solid. They're essentially a bunch of tiny pipes for The water. You attach fans to the radiator to ensure air flow across them, so that's not an issue. As for whether they're worth it, I have an H80i v2 which does a pretty good job. It's hooked up to an i5 6600K OC'ed to 4.4GHz, and I haven't seen it get anywhere above 60C. This is my first ever custom build though, so I have no idea exactly how that compares to air cooled. My concern is that the n200 case is pretty cozy. The only place a 240mm radiator would fit is in front, and then I'm preheating the air in the case. That's gonna put extra heat on the gpu. A 120mm radiator could go more places (rear exhaust slot or top slot) but I question if it's going to be effective. I doubly question if any of this is worth it over a standard cpu cooler arrangement.
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May 26, 2016 16:02
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What country are you in? Australia What are you using the system for? Web and Office? Gaming? Video or photo editing? Professional creative or scientific computing? I have bought a Vive and want to be able to use it! I imagine I'll get some AAA games at some point, but not too stressed. What's your budget? We usually specify for just the computer itself (plus Windows), but if you also need monitor/mouse/whatever, just say so. Couple grand? (AUD). Negotiable. If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution? How fancy do you want your graphics, from “it runs” to “Ultra preset as fast as possible”? I have a projector that I use, which is 1080p and am not really interested in getting massive resolutions. Extra things to note: I'd like a quiet system as I use my PC to deliver nearly all our media content and it sits in our living room. I think I'd like a GTX 1070, although am worried that my Vive will arrive before I'll be able to get it. Guessing Vive will arrive around mid June. Here's my current build: (note I am thinking of a microITX MSI Z170i (integrated WIFi) and Thermaltake Core X1 Mini ITX Chassis - $139AUD (PCCaseGear) as well. Please help! PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($333.00 @ Centre Com) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212X 82.9 CFM CPU Cooler ($49.00 @ CPL Online) Motherboard: MSI Z170A GAMING PRO CARBON ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($259.00 @ Centre Com) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($114.40 @ Newegg Australia) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Green 3TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive ($159.00 @ Storm Computers) Case: Fractal Design Define R5 (Titanium) ATX Mid Tower Case ($159.00 @ Centre Com) Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($155.00 @ CPL Online) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) ($137.00 @ Umart) Wireless Network Adapter: TP-Link TL-WN781ND 802.11b/g/n PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($16.00 @ Mwave Australia) Other: GX1070 ($600.00) Other: SSD (Purchased) Total: $1981.40 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-26 01:45 AEST+1000
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May 26, 2016 16:03
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LogicalFallacy posted:The radiators are not solid. They're essentially a bunch of tiny pipes for The water. You attach fans to the radiator to ensure air flow across them, so that's not an issue. As for whether they're worth it, I have an H80i v2 which does a pretty good job. It's hooked up to an i5 6600K OC'ed to 4.4GHz, and I haven't seen it get anywhere above 60C. This is my first ever custom build though, so I have no idea exactly how that compares to air cooled. "Solid" = good
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May 26, 2016 16:05
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Deviant posted:My concern is that the n200 case is pretty cozy. The only place a 240mm radiator would fit is in front, and then I'm preheating the air in the case. That's gonna put extra heat on the gpu. A 120mm radiator could go more places (rear exhaust slot or top slot) but I question if it's going to be effective. I've got a corsair cooler now and been using them for years with no issues, they also have a leak proof thing if something goes south. Yea but the air is not that hot so it's no issue if you have adequate airflow. What you will have problems with is maintaining positive pressure, if your main intake (the front) has to pull through a radiator and a filter you will have to probably double fan sandwich the radiator if you have any other fans in the case blowing air out.
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May 26, 2016 16:11
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ColHannibal posted:I've got a corsair cooler now and been using them for years with no issues, they also have a leak proof thing if something goes south. That makes sense. Given the coziness and the fact that the gtx 1080 is a blower and thus extra exhaust, I think I might just stick with the cryorig fan.
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May 26, 2016 16:14
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ColHannibal posted:"Solid" = good
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May 26, 2016 16:33
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Deviant posted:What are people's thoughts on water cooling? I see the new all in one sealed systems seem to be pretty good. I have the cooler master n200 case and cryorig h7 fan here in hand, but I was wondering about the corsair h60 or h100 radiator setup. The N200 is not very well suited for watercooling because it does not have very good mounting support for radiators. You can put at 240mm rad in the front which is the best way to go about it but you lose a fair amount of space for the GPU which can be pretty limiting. I also feel that anything smaller than a 240mm rad or a thick 120mm one like the H80i is not really worth it as far as the amount of extra cooling you get compared to air cooling. The concerns about pushing hot air into the case via a front mount are unfounded, in testing it makes very little difference because the CPU pushes relatively little heat inside the case and the hot air is still being pushed out the back quickly enough that it won't have a major effect on the GPU, if anything the GPU is the thing that will heat up the case the most because it is exhausting far more heat into the case that the CPU could ever hope to, even a 140W CPU like the i7-5960X OCed with 1.35v is still not pulling as much wattage as a high end GPU. Assuming you have an i5 of some kind a air cooler like the one you have now should be plenty to OC quite well as long as you don't push the voltage stupid high.
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May 26, 2016 18:51
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I hadn't considered the loss of GPU space. That makes it a non starter then. Cryorig it is.
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May 26, 2016 19:01
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I'm looking to buy a GTX960/R9 380 to replace my GTX560ti so I can play Total War: Warhammer better. Should I still be waiting for a price drop or was the holding off advice more for purchasing the new 1070/1080's?
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May 26, 2016 20:59
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People will be selling off their 970/980Tis/380s when the GPUs hit their market. So buying a new 960/380 now seems like a bad idea. Since you can get a used one for cheaper, or get the 480 for a sameish price.
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May 26, 2016 21:16
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Hi guys. I have a Gigabyte GA-770T-USB3 motherboard. I want to upgrade the RAM to 16 GB. I currently have only 4GB installed. I'm about 90% sure that's two 2GB sticks. The specification page says:quote:4 x 1.5V DDR3 DIMM sockets supporting up to 16 GB of system memory (Note2) Note 2 is quote:(Note 2) Use of a CPU that supports ECC is required if you wish to install ECC memory. The official memory support sheet (here, PDF) contains only 1 and 2 GB sticks, but with a single 4GB entry. However, all of this documentation seems to be from 2012. My question: can I put in two 8GB sticks, or must I use 4x4GB sticks to get to 16GB? Second question, recommend me a specific memory module? My preference is to use Amazon, for free Prime delivery and good return policy, but I'm open to any other reputable vendor. Also I'm in California, so a non-CA vendor saves me sales tax. I initially thought this but now I'm questioning whether these 8GB modules will work. e. Another option would be to go ahead and replace CPU, MB, and RAM all at once. $80 is about my limit for what I'd want to spend upgrading memory for a CPU and MB that is pretty old by now, but I think this setup should still last me a couple more years, so it edges out spending like $250 on a new core system. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 23:21 on May 26, 2016 |
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May 26, 2016 23:12
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Leperflesh posted:Hi guys. I have a Gigabyte GA-770T-USB3 motherboard. I want to upgrade the RAM to 16 GB. I currently have only 4GB installed. I'm about 90% sure that's two 2GB sticks. The specification page says: I'm not sure your mobo will support 8GB sticks, it's really old, it will probably work but I'm not completely sure. I would recommend upgrading your system instead, even a low end system would be light-years faster than your current one. Here is a list all from B&H which is in NY so no sales tax: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor ($115.95 @ B&H) Motherboard: Asus B150-PLUS ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($88.99 @ B&H) Memory: Crucial 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($54.99 @ B&H) Total: $259.93 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-26 20:32 EDT-0400 Here is a list with no merchant preference: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor ($110.99 @ SuperBiiz) Motherboard: MSI B150M BAZOOKA Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($76.98 @ Newegg) Memory: G.Skill Aegis 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($48.99 @ Newegg) Total: $236.96 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-26 20:35 EDT-0400 Anyway, whatever you decide to do I hope it works out for you. 
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May 27, 2016 01:38
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Dang, OK. $260 seems good. That CPU is only dual-core, would I get much more oomph going to an i5? Also can I assume that won't come with a heat sink, and the one on my AMD-based system won't fit?
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May 27, 2016 04:18
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How long does Newegg take to handle exchanges? My motherboard had a bad ram slot. I got my RMA number and shipping label tonight. I was hoping to get everything set up and running for the long weekend, but oh well. On the plus side, everything else appears to be fine.
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May 27, 2016 05:17
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mmkay posted:People will be selling off their 970/980Tis/380s when the GPUs hit their market. So buying a new 960/380 now seems like a bad idea. Since you can get a used one for cheaper, or get the 480 for a sameish price. I was looking into doing the same upgrade, any tips on the used videocard market? Would I be buying from somebody directly and taking a chance or are there middlemen resellers who buy/sell ones in good shape? Right now the 960s are ~$160 new, are the used ones going to be all that much cheaper?
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May 27, 2016 05:20
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Leperflesh posted:Dang, OK. $260 seems good. That CPU is only dual-core, would I get much more oomph going to an i5? You would but it will cost you an extra ~$80 and I was aiming for your $250 target, if you play games or want to start playing games the i5 will help quite a bit but for general usage the i3 should be plenty. What CPU are you using now? If you have something like a Phenom II X4 the i3 will be a little faster in all dual to quad threaded workloads and much, much faster in anything single threaded. The i5-6500($200) is much faster at all workloads. And the CPU comes with a HSF, it's not an amazing one but it's plenty for a low power CPU like the i3 and even for an i5, the only CPUs that don't come with a HSF are the k-series CPUs because the point of those is overclocking and for that you would want a better CPU cooler anyway. GCValentine posted:I was looking into doing the same upgrade, any tips on the used videocard market? Would I be buying from somebody directly and taking a chance or are there middlemen resellers who buy/sell ones in good shape? Right now the 960s are ~$160 new, are the used ones going to be all that much cheaper? See if you can get an EVGA card, EVGA does a transferable warranty so if there is something wrong with the card they will have you covered.
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May 27, 2016 05:42
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I'm in the US and I'm looking to do a little project, and I need a streaming PC. I'll be running two webcams via USB 3.0 and two channels of audio via USB2.0, and streaming them at 1260xwhateverthefuck widescreen. I'm a cheap fucker so I'm hoping to avoid buying an OS and running a Linux distro instead, but I'll buy an Windows disc (ISO? do you just straight up buy the ISO and skip the disc nowadays? haven't done a build since XP) if I have to. I won't be doing any gaming, just a straight AV feed (probably via OBS to start). I'm guessing and hoping that I won't need a truly beefy gaming-type rig. I'll be using it in conjunction with a Macbook Pro that I've been using to record 16 channels of audio from a mixer with built in I/O. Tried to do it all on the macbook and guess what? It was nowhere near capable of handling all that. I'm also going to want to extend my desktop onto a high-rez flatscreen (which I'm planning to run at 1080 because it doesn't need to look good, just have legible text) about 50 feet away and a desktop POS monitor that gets a low widescreen resolution, somewhere around 1260 by 900 or whatever. Ideally, I'd like to switch between the keyboard, mouse, and desktop screen Mac and the PC via some kind of KVM switch on the desk. My maximum budget is $1500, but I'd really like to spend less. I'm in the US. What kind of specs should I aim for and how stupid would I be to try to do it with Linux? Also, let's say I want to put the whole thing into a '90s beige ATX case. Where's the best place to track down a case like that? Grand Prize Winner fucked around with this message at 08:13 on May 27, 2016 |
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May 27, 2016 07:36
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:You would but it will cost you an extra ~$80 and I was aiming for your $250 target, if you play games or want to start playing games the i5 will help quite a bit but for general usage the i3 should be plenty. What CPU are you using now? If you have something like a Phenom II X4 the i3 will be a little faster in all dual to quad threaded workloads and much, much faster in anything single threaded. The i5-6500($200) is much faster at all workloads. I am gaming, yes, and I do have phenom 2 x4. I don't tend to play a lot of high-demand games like first-person shooters, but I'm finding tactical/strategy games are becoming more demanding these days too. I just grabbed warhammer total war, for example. I threw out $250 as my guess at the bare minimum for a swap of the core components, but I could go higher if it makes sense. $400 is probably the most I could justify, though. Thanks for your help.
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May 27, 2016 07:54
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Leperflesh posted:I am gaming, yes, and I do have phenom 2 x4. I don't tend to play a lot of high-demand games like first-person shooters, but I'm finding tactical/strategy games are becoming more demanding these days too. I just grabbed warhammer total war, for example. The TW games tend to hit the CPU hard so I would recommend an i5 at least. if you could stretch a bit and get a 6600k that would be much better because you could OC it for another 1-1.3GHz over the i5-6500: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($233.99 @ SuperBiiz) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.89 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: MSI Z170A SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($89.99 @ Newegg) Memory: GeIL EVO POTENZA 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($58.99 @ Newegg) Total: $407.86 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-27 03:30 EDT-0400
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May 27, 2016 08:30
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mmkay posted:People will be selling off their 970/980Tis/380s when the GPUs hit their market. So buying a new 960/380 now seems like a bad idea. Since you can get a used one for cheaper, or get the 480 for a sameish price. I'm pretty hesitant about buying used cards. It seems like a 1070 is a good option too but they're expected to be around $800 up here in Canada and that's goddamn ridiculous.
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May 27, 2016 14:48
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I managed to preorder one of the EVGA 1080 "FTW" cards with the 2x Power connector instead of the reference card. I hope this 650w psu is still enough, but I think it should be. Rough specs from earlier: i5-6600k, 2x8GB, GTX 1080 with 2x8 power connector, 1 SSD, 1 platter hdd
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May 27, 2016 16:03
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I've asked a similar question up thread, but I'm asking for reference, what's the minimum spec for console equivalent performance? I realize it depends on the game, but I saw that Gears of War Ultimate Edition lists this as a minimum: MINIMUM SPECS: OS 64 bit Windows 10 (v. 1511), Processor: Intel Core i5 @ 2.7Ghz / AMD FX 6-core, Memory: 8 GB RAM (2 GB VRAM), GPU: AMD R7 260x / NVIDIA GTX 650 Ti, HD Space: 60GB, DirectX12 https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/store/apps/gears-of-war-ultimate-edition-for-windows-10/9nblggh3shm5#app-details That's probably not the best example since I've heard it has issues regardless of the setup, I'm just trying to get an idea since I'm new to this. I'm not trying to get by with just the bare minimum, the build recommended up thread sounds good, again, I'm just asking for reference. Pomplamoose fucked around with this message at 17:18 on May 27, 2016 |
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May 27, 2016 17:14
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Whoops double post
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May 27, 2016 17:14
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Sebadoh Gigante posted:I've asked a similar question up thread, but I'm asking for reference, what's the minimum spec for console equivalent performance? I realize it depends on the game, but I saw that Gears of War Ultimate Edition lists this as a minimum: You want recommended spec, generally, for a solid 30-45 FPS on medium-high settings @1080p. But honestly it varies from game to game and publisher to publisher. Fortunately, it's easy enough to google "Gears of War Ultimate Edition benchmarks" to see how different cards and setups handle the game on PC.
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May 27, 2016 17:17
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Cat Army 
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I'm thinking about throwing a Linux distro (ubuntu studio specifically) on my machine, but really don't feel like reformatting and reinstalling Windows just to free up some partition space on my ssd. Would it be worth picking up another ssd or would an hdd still boot and run pretty quick?
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May 27, 2016 17:39
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LogicalFallacy posted:I'm thinking about throwing a Linux distro (ubuntu studio specifically) on my machine, but really don't feel like reformatting and reinstalling Windows just to free up some partition space on my ssd. Would it be worth picking up another ssd or would an hdd still boot and run pretty quick? I am never going back to using a HDD for the OS, but it'll run fine either way.
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May 27, 2016 17:49
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i wana build a PC for games of OverWatch an Minecraft. how much?
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May 27, 2016 18:33
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LogicalFallacy posted:I'm thinking about throwing a Linux distro (ubuntu studio specifically) on my machine, but really don't feel like reformatting and reinstalling Windows just to free up some partition space on my ssd. Would it be worth picking up another ssd or would an hdd still boot and run pretty quick? Any reason you're not going for a VM?
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May 27, 2016 19:05
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Neo_Crimson posted:Any reason you're not going for a VM? linux.com posted:Audio and video editing won’t work either, as you don’t want a virtual layer between the application and the hardware. LogicalFallacy fucked around with this message at 19:11 on May 27, 2016 |
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May 27, 2016 19:07
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:The TW games tend to hit the CPU hard so I would recommend an i5 at least. if you could stretch a bit and get a 6600k that would be much better because you could OC it for another 1-1.3GHz over the i5-6500: Thank you, I'll consider this. I definitely prefer long-term stability over overclocking, but I'll at least consider it, especially since it seems this is a very well-regarded chip. I try to avoid newegg because I pay tax and shipping, but all their stuff is free or nearly free shipping now, so yeah that might work. I've never heard of GeIL, are they reputable?
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May 27, 2016 19:10
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Leperflesh posted:Thank you, I'll consider this. I definitely prefer long-term stability over overclocking, but I'll at least consider it, especially since it seems this is a very well-regarded chip. I try to avoid newegg because I pay tax and shipping, but all their stuff is free or nearly free shipping now, so yeah that might work. I've never heard of GeIL, are they reputable? The RAM should be fine, all of it comes from the same few manufacturers these days. Also if you don't want to deal with the MIR on the CPU cooler get the Cryorig H7 on Newegg instead, it's significantly better for about the same price up front but without the $10 MIR. Another option is going with 8GB of RAM instead like this: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($233.99 @ SuperBiiz) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($24.89 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: MSI Z170A SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($89.99 @ Newegg) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($39.99 @ Newegg) Total: $388.86 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-27 14:15 EDT-0400 As far as OCing goes you have nothing to fear, even if you run the chip OCed for the whole time you use it the chip will outlast every other component in the computer.
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May 27, 2016 19:31
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Chair In A Basket posted:i wana build a PC for games of OverWatch an Minecraft. how much? Assuming your not a troll, 800x600 resolution or 4K.
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May 27, 2016 20:18
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