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Simkin posted:Do I go that route and rock two OEM wheels up front, and two aftermarket on the back Please, Please, Please, Please, Please do not do this. Every time I see some kid in his honda with 17" used Enkei's on his back wheels and stock steelies up front I laugh, and cry. It looks absolutely retarded and likely has rather detrimental effects to your handling and center diff.
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Jul 1, 2011 16:59
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Just get a full set. Then you'll have spares for future curbing escapades (rallycross)!
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Jul 1, 2011 17:24
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Just get a full set. Then you'll have spares for future curbing escapades (rallycross)! Soon, your garage will be full of spare wheels like mine! :p
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Jul 1, 2011 17:47
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c355n4 posted:Soon, your garage will be full of spare wheels like mine! :p I filled that area already. I had to start storing extra tire sets in the basement (it thrills the wife).
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Jul 1, 2011 17:52
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Sockington posted:I filled that area already. I had to start storing extra tire sets in the basement (it thrills the wife).
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Jul 1, 2011 18:08
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blargle posted:I'm about ready to convert my OEM wheels over to winter duty, anyone have opinions on SSR Type F or Advan RS? Or should I just cheap out and get Rota DPTs instead? All three are significantly lighter than the stock wheels in 17". The JDM wheels are also hilariously difficult to find, possibly due to the tsunami. Unless you're going to be racing and every last lb of sprung weight counts, forged wheels are more money than they're worth. Light forged wheels are just as prone to bending as cast ones. You're far better off buying 5 (or 8, for that matter) cheap cast wheels and cycling through. Seat Safety Switch posted:Throw some nice wood on top and it's themed furniture now. Now that we have a coffee table made mostly out of old Toyota wheels, honey, I'm off to the junkyard to pick up some other parts for which to be consistent with this room's new theme. I had two piles of spare wheels/tires with a door on top and towels covering the rubber for a workbench in my last place. Worked great.
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Jul 1, 2011 18:38
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2 issues. So I replaced my knock sensor on my '02 impreza last month after it was spitting out an error code related to it. I noticed at the time that the car felt kind of gutted. Hoping this would fix it. Well a month later and it still feels gutted. It doesn't feel like there is any power until I get past 2K RPM. from 1-2 it sounds really... Bassy? Like I'm in too high of a gear... Starting on an uphill it is really apparent. I don't have the slightest about where to start with this. 2nd issue and may be related. When starting up my car cold. There is a horrid screeching noise that lasts for about 2 seconds after ignition. After I have driven the car around and warmed up the engine. The noise will go away almost completely (and sometimes 100% gone) after I start up the engine when it is warmed up. I've noticed on incredibly hot days that the noise goes away about 50% when I start up. The other thing I noticed is that on days where the noise isn't so apparent. My engine seems to do better than how I described it in my first issue. I don't know if I am imagining things or not, however. Whats going on with my car? : (
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Jul 1, 2011 18:56
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Thirst for Savings posted:2nd issue and may be related. #2 is a loose belt.
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Jul 1, 2011 19:09
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So I managed to replace the busted wheel stud on my 93 Impreza, it was really darn easy actually. This punk-rear end kid explains it pretty well. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qB3QTRguEH8 I was doing pads at the same time and was kinda shocked when I took out the old pads, and they're worn down like |/ /| - looks to be because one of the slide pins is seized. One end of the slide pin boot somehow completely slipped off and it was bone-dry in there. I'm thinking I'll fix this by taking out the pin, sanding it smooth, grease and reassemble. Any better advice?
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Jul 1, 2011 19:16
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c355n4 posted:Soon, your garage will be full of spare wheels like mine! :p Goddamnit, I already have a garage full of 4x114.3 wheels for my datsun, I don't need to start a separate collection for the WRX. 
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Jul 1, 2011 19:20
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Amandyke posted:#2 is a loose belt. I've read that it could also be the starter? I would think that if it was a loose belt that the noise would happen on every start up cold or warm. Anywho, the belts were replaced 3 years ago after my head gasket job. Which belt would usually be the culprit?
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Jul 1, 2011 19:25
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Thirst for Savings posted:I've read that it could also be the starter? Yeah, I'm going to go with this. The starter on my '02 WRX sticks on for a few seconds when it's cold out. It's a pretty common issue. The only way to get rid of it is replace the starter. If you aren't worried about being potentially stranded if it gives up the ghost, it's safe to ignore until it just flat out breaks.
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Jul 1, 2011 20:25
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Thirst for Savings posted:I've read that it could also be the starter? I would think that if it was a loose belt that the noise would happen on every start up cold or warm. Sounds a lot like this? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wv5bc3Ndrgg&t=10s Belts should likely be replaced every year unless you got specific long life belts. You could probably just tighten them, but after 3 years... Just get news ones, they're like $15 a piece.
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Jul 1, 2011 20:53
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I don't think that's it. I would record a clip of what my '02 does, but it's 85 degrees out and it doesn't start until it's freezing. The lubrication of the starter gets contaminated over time and it doesn't disengage from the flywheel right away. It creates a very nasty WHIRRRRRRRL sound for a second after the engine turns over. It's very similar to this. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=im64B-pS2y8&feature=related bull3964 fucked around with this message at 21:29 on Jul 1, 2011 |
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Jul 1, 2011 21:22
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Amandyke posted:Sounds a lot like this? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wv5bc3Ndrgg&t=10s Thats not quite it, close. Plus in that video he is not getting the noise until the A/C is engaged. bull3964 posted:I don't think that's it. Not that either. The first video is closer to the noise I'm hearing, but its on startup, not with engaging the A/C. iSheep fucked around with this message at 21:33 on Jul 1, 2011 |
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Jul 1, 2011 21:31
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Another possibility could be the timing belt tensioner or idler pulley. How many miles and were they replaced?
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Jul 1, 2011 21:38
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Thirst for Savings posted:Thats not quite it, close. Plus in that video he is not getting the noise until the A/C is engaged. Yes I know. Ignore that it's the AC belt. Close your eyes and listen. If that's the sound, it's an old/worn belt.
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Jul 1, 2011 21:46
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Amandyke posted:Yes I know. Ignore that it's the AC belt. Close your eyes and listen. If that's the sound, it's an old/worn belt. Its close but not quite there. I'm not throwing your idea out the window by any means. Tomorrow morning I'll have someone start the car up while I'm under the hood. I'll pin point it much easier. bull3964 posted:Another possibility could be the timing belt tensioner or idler pulley. How many miles and were they replaced? The car is currently at 90,500 miles. All my belts were replaced at 74,000.
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Jul 1, 2011 22:07
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re: Replacing an O2 sensor. Is the specially made socket really needed for it or can I use a open ended wrench?
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Jul 2, 2011 00:46
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JayKay posted:re: Replacing an O2 sensor. It makes it a hell of a lot easier. I just borrowed one from Advanced Auto, their rental is free.
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Jul 2, 2011 01:30
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infrared35 posted:Okay, my '99 OBS made the 1400-mile trip over the mountains hauling a trailer with all my worldly possessions in it. It now has 156k miles on the clock. Before the trip I had a bunch of work done to make sure it was roadworthy - timing belt, brakes all the way around, tune-up, oil change, and addition of a trailer hitch. The real issues were the brakes (leaking cylinders in the back) and the tune-up (one spark plug wire had worn through and was occasionally shorting out, causing lack of power). I also had the AC recharged. The car drove fine on the trip, and it's been two weeks since then with no issues... until a couple days ago. I have been driving the car a lot over the last couple weeks and it's still making that thud noise, but now it's accompanied by a weird "chirp" sound. The car only seems to do it when the AC is on and I'm either making a left turn or going from a left turn to a right turn. The sound seems like it's coming from the transmission. A sudden thud and chirp coming from the transmission are kind of worrying, especially since I'm in a new area and I don't know who to trust as far as shops go. Anybody have any ideas?
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Jul 3, 2011 00:15
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I'll be taking delivery of a new 2011 STi in a week or two when it arrives. I have to drive it back from Seattle (~4 hours on the back roads I intend to take) and have a couple of questions. I have always felt the cloth and plastic rock deflectors that go on the front of the hood of a given car were tacky and stupid. However, now I kind of think it might be a good idea to put one on for highway driving/long road trips such as this. Does anyone sell anything that looks half decent and doesn't interfere (too heavily) with intercooler-affecting flow? Should I stop once an hour or so, take a break, and then continue? I know I need to keep the engine speed low and varied, but what else do I need to know to not screw it up? On an unrelated and perceptibly silly note, what are good first mods, not necessarily power related? I'm getting the "performance package" which is a short shifter/knob and the SPT stainless/mandrel CB exhaust (and what I'm sure will be a pathetic under seat subwoofer). I DO NOT want to void the warranty, but do intend to do autocross and track events. Does an AccessPort void the warranty if i flash it back to stock before a servicing? Can the dealership tell it went to a new map then back to stock? Also, does that exhaust actually help with whp at all? I'm inclined to think not. Finally, I want a boost gauge. Does anyone mount the SPT one anywhere besides on the top of the dash? I haven't seen any pictures of that or any other placement, but top of the dash seems a little... ugly. Any other better/cheaper options for monitoring boost? That post turned out long. Thanks for any and all help for a turbo Subaru noob.
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Jul 3, 2011 16:00
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:I have always felt the cloth and plastic rock deflectors that go on the front of the hood of a given car were tacky and stupid. However, now I kind of think it might be a good idea to put one on for highway driving/long road trips such as this. As a temporary solution for your drive home, you could just use masking tape until you find something you like.
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Jul 3, 2011 18:39
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:I'll be taking delivery of a new 2011 STi in a week or two when it arrives. I have to drive it back from Seattle (~4 hours on the back roads I intend to take) and have a couple of questions. Get a clear bra if you want to preserve the paint. Subaru is notorious for thin, low quality paint. I didn't have one on my last Subaru and it was a big mistake. My current Subaru's both have it and it's the best investment I've made. THE BLACK NINJA posted:Should I stop once an hour or so, take a break, and then continue? I know I need to keep the engine speed low and varied, but what else do I need to know to not screw it up? Just keep the rev's varied and if you're adhering to the manual stay below 4500rpm (I think? Double check). So granny shift, pull off and back on the freeway from time to time - this is what I did in my WRX during breakin milage on a trip to California. THE BLACK NINJA posted:On an unrelated and perceptibly silly note, what are good first mods, not necessarily power related? I'm getting the "performance package" which is a short shifter/knob and the SPT stainless/mandrel CB exhaust (and what I'm sure will be a pathetic under seat subwoofer). I DO NOT want to void the warranty, but do intend to do autocross and track events. Does an AccessPort void the warranty if i flash it back to stock before a servicing? Can the dealership tell it went to a new map then back to stock? I would not pay for the "performance package" if you have not already - I'm going to guess that it's overpriced and not what you'll end up wanting as you learn more about the car the exception being the factory short shifter which I've heard is decent. A performance alignment is about the best thing you can do inexpensively (-2 to -2.5 front camber, 0 toe all around). Second hand exhaust systems (mine - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jalqE8PP8sg) are cheap (4-500 bucks) and really waken up the exhaust note on the car which should be heard and celebrated. Sway bars are a cheap and easy transformation as well. Cobb says plainly that you cannot detect an accessport once it's been uninstalled from the car - I believe this. There are many people who say "The dealership can still tell!" which I've never ever seen substantiated and truly believe to be something that some idiot said years ago and many other idiots parrot ad-nauseum. Other mods worth looking into that will really help with the mannerisms of the car are the Whiteline Anti-Lift kit, Whiteline RCA (roll center adjust), and the Whiteline Rear Subframe bushings. All of these will add to what you'll see referred to as NVH (noise, vibration, harshness) this is generally in the form of sound that carries into the cabin of the car. The cars aren't quiet at speed to being with and in my mind it's well worth it. THE BLACK NINJA posted:Also, does that exhaust actually help with whp at all? I'm inclined to think not. No. THE BLACK NINJA posted:Finally, I want a boost gauge. Does anyone mount the SPT one anywhere besides on the top of the dash? I haven't seen any pictures of that or any other placement, but top of the dash seems a little... ugly. Any other better/cheaper options for monitoring boost? There are many solutions. I have a pillar mount from http://www.iwsti.com/forums/gr-vendor-announcements/179159-pillar-gauge-pod-solution-official-vendor.html here. It is NOT a perfect match to the interior, but it is not something anyone has noticed, hell I don't even notice it and normally I'm a bitch about things like this. He has a single gauge pod if that's all you want. I would recommend two if you ever plan on going stage 2 (which you should) THE BLACK NINJA posted:That post turned out long. Thanks for any and all help for a turbo Subaru noob. 4 hours from Seattle sounds like Portland potentially? Let me know if that's the case I'd be willing to give you a go in my car if you want to get a sense for how some suspension modifications wake up the handling of the car (as well as how giggle inducing stage 2 is  ). If you're in Portland I can give you a hand with parts installs too.
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Jul 3, 2011 20:47
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:I have always felt the cloth and plastic rock deflectors that go on the front of the hood of a given car were tacky and stupid. However, now I kind of think it might be a good idea to put one on for highway driving/long road trips such as this. Does anyone sell anything that looks half decent and doesn't interfere (too heavily) with intercooler-affecting flow? THE BLACK NINJA posted:Should I stop once an hour or so, take a break, and then continue? I know I need to keep the engine speed low and varied, but what else do I need to know to not screw it up? THE BLACK NINJA posted:On an unrelated and perceptibly silly note, what are good first mods, not necessarily power related? I'm getting the "performance package" which is a short shifter/knob and the SPT stainless/mandrel CB exhaust (and what I'm sure will be a pathetic under seat subwoofer). I DO NOT want to void the warranty, but do intend to do autocross and track events. Does an AccessPort void the warranty if i flash it back to stock before a servicing? Can the dealership tell it went to a new map then back to stock? I also got the short-throw shifter, but it came with my car (so I really can't compare it to anything. One of the first things I did was put a larger rear-sway bar on the car, which stiffened up the rear end and gave it a bit more oversteer when I occasionally play around on corners. This may not be applicable to you though, as the STI is stiffer than the WRX already. THE BLACK NINJA posted:Also, does that exhaust actually help with whp at all? I'm inclined to think not.
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Jul 3, 2011 20:56
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Thanks for the input. It seems like a clear bra is the way to go. Are those available at the dealership or should I order one now and bring it with me? I live in the tri cities but I go to Portland pretty often for beer. Maybe sometime I'll message you if I'm coming down over a weekend or something. The car is being shipped with the exhaust. I wouldn't have ordered it myself, but I don't think it can hurt. I don't really care about the exhaust note as long as it isn't nasty or loud. I drove a sedan STi and passed for this wagon. I personally thought the stock note was fine and already almost too loud. So I'm just going to be happy with it I guess. As far as low key upgrades go, I think the alignment is a good idea. I'll look into that. I'll probably wait a while till I get anything else besides maybe some of those whiteline bushings and potentially a swaybar. Speaking of, are those worth it on the STi model? Also, is an accessport worth it if I don't have any real modifications I.e. Reflash with stock hardware? I'm sure a k&n drop in filter will be put in right away, but I've read that a downpipe voids the motors' warranty. True? Lies? Thanks for the help.
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Jul 3, 2011 21:46
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Clear bras are pretty good. If my car's paint wasn't already tore up, I would have one installed, the subaru's paint is so thin. The key is to make sure it is installed properly. If you're not the most anal person in the world, hire someone who is to do the install.
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Jul 3, 2011 21:54
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:Thanks for the input. It seems like a clear bra is the way to go. Are those available at the dealership or should I order one now and bring it with me? Dealership can put it on for you, but it generally needs to be scheduled. Call them and tell them you want it and see if they can do it before you're scheduled to pick it up. Make certain that you pay NO MORE than you would at a reputable shop for it - $600 or so. Alternatively you should be just fine driving to the Tri-shities and getting one installed there. THE BLACK NINJA posted:I live in the tri cities but I go to Portland pretty often for beer. Maybe sometime I'll message you if I'm coming down over a weekend or something. Excellent. There's a lot of meetups over the summer so you should make your way to one of those. There's generally a fair number of idiot kids there, but a lot of level headed decent folks show up as well. THE BLACK NINJA posted:The car is being shipped with the exhaust. I wouldn't have ordered it myself, but I don't think it can hurt. I don't really care about the exhaust note as long as it isn't nasty or loud. I drove a sedan STi and passed for this wagon. I personally thought the stock note was fine and already almost too loud. So I'm just going to be happy with it I guess. If you thought that the stock was almost too loud then you'll probably be fine with what I suspect you'll be getting is the SPT, it adds a bit of volume without droning or being "too loud". THE BLACK NINJA posted:As far as low key upgrades go, I think the alignment is a good idea. I'll look into that. I'll probably wait a while till I get anything else besides maybe some of those whiteline bushings and potentially a swaybar. Speaking of, are those worth it on the STi model? Also, is an accessport worth it if I don't have any real modifications I.e. Reflash with stock hardware? I'm sure a k&n drop in filter will be put in right away, but I've read that a downpipe voids the motors' warranty. True? Lies? Sway's make a big difference, absolutely one of the best bang for the buck mods for the car. Accessport on it's own will get you Stage 1 (12% power gain out of the box as I recall) and what most people say is a safer tune for the engine (I'm not certain how true this is for the 2011's, but you should look on IWSTI or NASIOC and see). Downpipe if they see it does not void the warranty on it's own, but the dealerships I've delt with so far like to make a list of your mods in case they have to point to them to reject any warranty work. If they know at any point you've had a downpipe and your engine blows for any reason they're going to point at the downpipe and tell you to get hosed.
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Jul 3, 2011 22:50
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The main reason you should go to the Cobb OTS Stage 1 right after you leave the dealer is because the dyno chart for that stock tune looks like something you could cut trees down with. I'm also rather confident that Cobb's dyno is *really* generous when it comes to power numbers.
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Jul 4, 2011 02:41
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So does anyone have a chart of the COBB stage 1 chart? That stock "curve" is disconcerting to say the least. After some interweb research, it seems the clear bra is not for me. I just don't like the idea of a permanent film. Yes, its fairly clean when done professionally and what not, but when I look at it or wax it up it will leave something to be desired, a discontinuity in feel and appearance. I think the solution is to buy a cloth hood protector from Subaru as my girlfriend has a 2010 Outback Sport (black on black, so nice) and interchangeability for camping etc will be good. I just don't want some unsightly poo poo on there day to day, so to be able to remove it will be good. I do appreciate the advice though, so thanks. So from what you guys have said a sway bar set is a good idea. I always thought a rear was the more important of the two for reducing understeer/inducing oversteer. I'm pretty much sold. I'm sure I will get addicted to power, but handling and motor response seems much better to me now (still waiting for the car...). What is a good brand for a daily/semi daily driver? I don't need to get buck wild around every corner, but I'm not buying an STi because I want a sedate vehicle. Also, would the stock STi bar fit on the 2010 OBS? That would be cool. I really want to get good tires and suspension bits for the OBS... Thanks again.
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Jul 4, 2011 03:59
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:So does anyone have a chart of the COBB stage 1 chart? That stock "curve" is disconcerting to say the least. A better alignment might be a nice first cheap step. For sways Whiteline. As far as the Cobb OTS stage 1 flash. It was night and day better on my 09 WRX. Tremblay fucked around with this message at 04:33 on Jul 4, 2011 |
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Jul 4, 2011 04:31
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:So does anyone have a chart of the COBB stage 1 chart? That stock "curve" is disconcerting to say the least. You will not notice the clear bra once on unless you're looking for it. Here are a couple of HQ shots of my car -    You cannot see the clearbra. In fact one of the great things about the front end of my car is that I don't have to wax it, I wash it with soap and water and it's good to go. Sways: Whiteline 22mm front 20mm rear. Front was most effective in reducing understeer and improving grip in corners. Don't bother with front endlinks but I would strongly suggest getting rears, kartboy are the best. Looks like the stock tune is still poo poo on the 2011's - I would strongly suggest an accessport ASAP.
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Jul 4, 2011 08:38
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Sockington posted:I filled that area already. I had to start storing extra tire sets in the basement (it thrills the wife). I have at last count 24 spare Subaru rims. Dont ask how many rally tyres. Annnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnyway......... I'm looking at another Subaru, but tossing up wether to finally get a tow car (Outback) or say gently caress it and go 2011 STI. No, the red WRX (now working) isnt going. Oddly, a 2011 STI isnt all that appealing but the Outback is - somethign to run into the round, throw lots of poo poo into, tows, mud larks... yeah So, why no new STI? Well of course yes I have an 04 buuuuuuut lets see what's on the schedule for the next couple of months for the 06 - New big brakes, plated rear diff, new bushes for the suspension, steel splashguards, front lip spoiler, plated front diff, castor tricks, strut braces, chassis braces, dry ice for interior removal, hi flo fuel pump, baffled tank, baffled sump, TBE, remap, rear wing, datadash, replacement centre diff, replacement struts / springs and oh gently caress here we go  The game is simply use a stock engine / gear box / ECU, everything else is up for grabs and especially anything to do with handling.
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Jul 4, 2011 09:35
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Do they sell a turbo Outback in Australia, or is that a North America only kind of thing (although they stopped recently)?
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Jul 4, 2011 15:00
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Do they sell a turbo Outback in Australia, or is that a North America only kind of thing (although they stopped recently)? Australia gets the Legacy rebadged as a Liberty, right? Because it looks like you can get a "Liberty" GT wagon in Australia. http://subaru.com.au/liberty/2.5-gt-premium-wagon Basically the same thing except the ride height might be a little lower, I think.
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Jul 4, 2011 16:20
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allonblack posted:You will not notice the clear bra once on unless you're looking for it. Here are a couple of HQ shots of my car I definitely can't see it in the pictures. I think I'll have to reconsider. Also, do you have the STi front lip or is it a different one? That's the "dark grey metallic" paint, correct? Thats the color I'm getting, it looks pretty good in those pictures. Should I but an accessport new or is used off NASIOC or something pretty safe? Thanks for all the help. A drive down to the Cascade barrel house might be in order.
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Jul 4, 2011 17:33
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:I definitely can't see it in the pictures. I think I'll have to reconsider. Also, do you have the STi front lip or is it a different one? That's the "dark grey metallic" paint, correct? Thats the color I'm getting, it looks pretty good in those pictures. I cannot impress upon you enough how important the clear bra is. An actual bra would look so tacky . That's the Chargespeed Bottom Line replica lip. It's a cheap urethane lip from Ebay made by BaysonR (http://tinyurl.com/stilip). Yup, DGM it's very nice. Here's a picture of the line you can see from my Clearbra when you're looking for it -  THE BLACK NINJA posted:Should I but an accessport new or is used off NASIOC or something pretty safe? Thanks for all the help. A drive down to the Cascade barrel house might be in order. Used is just fine, but you want to make 100% certain that it's "unmarried" (uninstalled, divorced) from the previous owners car. The best way to do this is to buy it in person and plug it in, if you see that it asks you to install it, you're GTG, otherwise make sure you're buying it from someone with a decent buyers rating on IWSTI or NASIOC. You'll save 200 bucks or so over a new one, but if you want a new one shop around as some places give out free poo poo to offset some of the cost of the AP. This dude has one - http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2195974&highlight=accessport he's an OK guy that splits his time between Portland and Corvallis, you could pick it up if you were up for the drive. Beer == good.
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Jul 4, 2011 17:51
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Just flashed with v3 of the 91 octane stage one Cobb map. Boost targets are 13.5, max boost in my onramp post-flash shakedown was 16.1. My hunch is that that's bad, right? My only "mod" is an STi exhaust. (07 WRX) DEUCE SLUICE fucked around with this message at 02:05 on Jul 5, 2011 |
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Jul 5, 2011 01:58
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Try the low wastegate duty cycle map
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Jul 5, 2011 04:15
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I don't see one for 06-07 WRX's.
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Jul 5, 2011 05:01
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