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Thanks for the info
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Jul 8, 2011 06:18
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:But, it does mean something - stage 1 and stage 2 are pretty well defined things at this point. Stage 1 - You throw your tax return at a tuner Stage 2 - You throw a month of pay at a tuner Stage 3 - You pay three months wage for the priveldge of sucking tuner cock Stage 4 - You mortgage the house for an rear end reaming from the tuner No, they are meaningless poo poo. Dont waste time and learn how to hack
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Jul 8, 2011 06:22
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Despite Cat Terrist being an rear end and sort of having a point, the generally accepted notions are this: Stage 1: tune Stage 2: downpipe, better air filter, tune After that it's all nonsense.
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Jul 8, 2011 13:55
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Cat Terrist posted:No, they are meaningless poo poo. Dont waste time and learn how to hack Just because you think the distinctions shouldn't exist doesn't mean that for a WRX "Stage 1" and "Stage 2" don't actually refer to a pretty specific thing.
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Jul 8, 2011 17:44
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Or just call them what they are? A tune. Some bolt-ons.
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Jul 8, 2011 18:00
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c355n4 posted:Or just call them what they are? That won't sound as fast when posting on NASIOC.
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Jul 8, 2011 19:11
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Cat Terrist posted:Stage 1 - You throw your tax return at a tuner Now I smile and ask "did you swallow?" every time someone claims to have a stage three.
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Jul 8, 2011 19:12
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Wonder where the whole "stage" terminology began. Probably some garage, or more likely parts manufacturer's scheme to get people to consistently upgrade. Anyone have any insights on what tuning brand started this?
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Jul 8, 2011 19:29
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VolumeBroadcast posted:Wonder where the whole "stage" terminology began. Probably some garage, or more likely parts manufacturer's scheme to get people to consistently upgrade. The "stage" terminology for tunes seems to be common among all OTS tunes for many many tuners for many manufacturers. They mean different things for different motors though, stg 1 pretty much always is just a tune and stg 2 is pretty much always a removed or hiflow cat.
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Jul 8, 2011 19:43
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nm posted:Well cobb calls its base tune stg 1 and its downpipe tune stg 2. Yeah Cobb popped into my mind as well (this is a Subaru thread after all) but I'm pretty sure this terminology started before 2004 when they released the V1 accessport. I almost want to say it was the VW or Nissan guys, but I'm just guessing.
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Jul 8, 2011 20:14
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VolumeBroadcast posted:Yeah Cobb popped into my mind as well (this is a Subaru thread after all) but I'm pretty sure this terminology started before 2004 when they released the V1 accessport. I almost want to say it was the VW or Nissan guys, but I'm just guessing. Dodge had staged upgrades for the SRT-4 Neons when they first came out.
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Jul 8, 2011 22:03
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Did a track day  The car chewed the rear rotors into oblivion, and I can only assume it would be a good idea to replace the fronts, since they are also original as well. I have to drive the car mostly on the street, so I need a compromise pad and rotor. I don't care at all about noise. Any recommendations?
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Jul 9, 2011 22:13
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If you're ok with some extra dust, get the Stoptech Street Performance pads. I put them all around on my 07 and they're incredible.
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Jul 9, 2011 23:14
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Wrar posted:Did a track day I an most people I use just use cheap blanks. I also recommend dedicated track pads.
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Jul 10, 2011 00:05
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nm posted:Track rotors don't really exist. Ummm.... yes they do. A good compromise is a DBA 5000 front / DBA 4000 rear rotor with Ferodo DS2500 pads. Or if you want, use as DS2500 front for road and swap pads to DS 3000's on the track. Also get better brake lines and better fluid. The combo above is pretty much the against the stop watch solution in the local club. Also, if you do track days, you also need to think of rotors as consumerables (which is where the idea of just use std blanks) comes from. It does work, the above combo will survive a handful of track days but you will need to replace regulary. My DBA5000's are now end of life after three track days, so I need to get new rotors for them.
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Jul 10, 2011 00:30
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take the stoptech pads over DS2500. very similar MOT and cf but costs a lot less. For actual track pads you have to spend money- CLs, PF01s, DTC60, DS3000 etc are all about $400 a set.
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Jul 10, 2011 02:27
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jamal posted:For actual track pads you have to spend money- CLs, PF01s, DTC60, DS3000 etc are all about $400 a set.  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d2X2LXqWQTw http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4a2eRLQX9vk I am very rusty. It was just good to be on the track again. Wrar fucked around with this message at 02:37 on Jul 10, 2011 |
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Jul 10, 2011 02:28
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ I would note that good track pads will last quite a bit longer on the track than street pads, so it becomes much more economical that way over time. My rear track pads take forever to get to 50%. You can probably get away with some decent rear street pads if you're paying attention though. Cat Terrist posted:Also, if you do track days, you also need to think of rotors as consumerables (which is where the idea of just use std blanks) comes from. It does work, the above combo will survive a handful of track days but you will need to replace regulary. Maybe this is only an LGT thing, but cheap blanks crack after 6ish track days, expensive rotors maybe last 8. nm fucked around with this message at 02:41 on Jul 10, 2011 |
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Jul 10, 2011 02:37
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VolumeBroadcast posted:Yeah Cobb popped into my mind as well (this is a Subaru thread after all) but I'm pretty sure this terminology started before 2004 when they released the V1 accessport. I almost want to say it was the VW or Nissan guys, but I'm just guessing. I definitely remember this from the mid-90's when I had my TT 300ZX. I recall Stillen talking about stages back then.
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Jul 10, 2011 07:27
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I'm pretty sure "Stages" got to be a popular thing from Gran Turismo. They go to four (only three in the later ones).
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Jul 10, 2011 07:31
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allonblack posted:I definitely remember this from the mid-90's when I had my TT 300ZX. I recall Stillen talking about stages back then. It goes back a lot further, except that when you talked stages, you talked about real poo poo, not just the latest fad and hot tuna idea. So for instance, a V8 Commodore I had had "stage Three" top end - BIG porting, big valves, roller rockers, double valve springs and a bunch of water jacket mods, big carby and extractors. Probably good for an extra 100 hp. Stage one was always about making it breathe, stage two about revs, stage three going nuts. Still was a whole lot of wankertalk even then, even if what you paid for (and installed yourself) was a lot more than just a few bolt ons.
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Jul 10, 2011 08:36
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Had a good spirited drive through the hills yesterday. Now I have a screw in my right rear tire and an exhaust leak under load from the header. Anyone have anything to say about the copper gimmick header gaskets? Our should I just get another pair of oem gaskets.
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Jul 10, 2011 18:45
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I just spent 2 hours researching brake fluid. I excluded Castrol SRF due to cost. I mean, it's awesome and all, but I'm not spending ~$80 on brake fluid. It's simply not in the budget. However, I did discover US Brake Ultra HTX. It looks to be 80% of the performance for 25% of the cost. I am that sort of guy that is very happy with that sort of trade off. I bought NAPA blanks and pads, but I will get a set of track pads. Probably not the super-awesome ones because I flat out can't afford it, but something decent. I would have to track the car a lot for it to make sense to use something other than regular blanks.
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Jul 10, 2011 21:15
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Honestly, you'll likely do fine with something like ATE super blue/whatever they call the non-blue stuff that's exactly the same. Numbers aren't as good, but it is half the price ($14/.5L v. $12/L). I've smoked some track pads, but never boiled super blue. Just make sure you bleed before every track day and change the fluid at least once a season.
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Jul 10, 2011 21:46
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SafeRacer has the Ultra for $11/.5L. You're in California (dry, mostly) and I'm in South Florida, which is incredibly humid year around. I'd be more inclined to do it every 6 months/bleed before a track day due to laziness. Super Blue/TYP200 would probably do the trick though. With shipping the Ultra is $5 more from SafeRacer, heh.
Wrar fucked around with this message at 23:40 on Jul 10, 2011 |
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Jul 10, 2011 23:15
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Well, I finally did it. Needed something much more practical to drive around town, since my '99 M3 is starting to get ridiculously painful/annoying/stressful to drive on local roads. 2005 Outback 3.0R VDC, 31548 miles. Had to fly from Birmingham, AL to Harrisburg, PA to buy it and drive it back, but totally worth it. Ended up paying $17k out the door, with the 30k mile service just recently done, and a 3k/90 day warranty. Flawless condition. Drove through a tremendous amount of rain yesterday, and I finally understand the love affair with AWD in bad weather. Put 1000 miles on it in the past two days. I'm sure I'm doing something wrong, because everything about this decision feels right so far. Some things are weird getting used to from the M3, but overall it's a blast.
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Jul 11, 2011 01:11
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Wrar posted:SafeRacer has the Ultra for $11/.5L. You're in California (dry, mostly) and I'm in South Florida, which is incredibly humid year around. I'd be more inclined to do it every 6 months/bleed before a track day due to laziness. Super Blue/TYP200 would probably do the trick though. With shipping the Ultra is $5 more from SafeRacer, heh. No, really. I wish they still made Valvoline Synpower. That had similar numbers to super blue and cost nothing.
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Jul 11, 2011 04:43
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multiprotocol posted:Well, I finally did it. what's up birmingham '05 outback buddy? I've got a pearl white '05 OBXT.
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Jul 11, 2011 05:57
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Just got the new STI. Very cool. Drove it 250 miles home through mtns varying engine speed and rarely exceeding 4k rpm. Took it out again tonight and ended up in a second gear pull up to 6.3k or so. The car felt great. But, I'm super paranoid. Did I do anything bad with one good pull after 250-260 miles?
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Jul 11, 2011 06:21
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It will live.
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Jul 11, 2011 06:30
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:Just got the new STI. Very cool. Drove it 250 miles home through mtns varying engine speed and rarely exceeding 4k rpm. Took it out again tonight and ended up in a second gear pull up to 6.3k or so. The car felt great. But, I'm super paranoid. Did I do anything bad with one good pull after 250-260 miles? Answers to this will vary depending on who's school of thought the answerer believes in when it comes to engine break-in. Some say drive it like you stole it, others say adhere to the warranty or SUFFER. My answer? Not even. I have ~20k on my car now and I had a few spirited drives during break-in.
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Jul 11, 2011 07:51
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My new car hunt was interesting on the weekend. I got to go to my local Subaru dealer (who do know me fairly well, I have bought a couple of Subarus from the slaes manager there after all) and basically got to select basically whatever Subaru I wanted to drive. The advantages of being a repeat customer! 1. 2011 Tribeca Exterior? Eh whatever. Interior? As Kaptain Ballistik put it, this poo poo was pimpin' and the rap we played on the highly impressive stereo set the scene for a very enjoyable cruise. That IS a nice place to be on a warm winters day and a much better car than we expected. That interior really was top notch - but other than that it's just a fairly decent car. Not bad. 2. 2011 Outback diesel The engine in reality is too small, it needs to be a 2.5 litre. But otherwise it's a Outback, which is pretty much a highly competent car with some very nice luxury touches - we drove a manual 6 speed with all the fruit. Handling on the familiar roads was resonable, brakes resonable, power was.... lets talk about something else, torque was average. However this thing could potentially do in a Prius for fuel economy on the highway, for a large lump it really was good on fuel. I think runiing costs would be amazingly low. 1600 kgs towing capacity means it isnt the heavy weight tower but the get us out of trouble type the old Forester XT served so well with. Can do with better tyres. I could certainly see this as the next Subaru 3. MY11 WRX hatch The MY11 certainly is a better car to look at and the charcoal grey version we got the keys to really did look the part with it's BBS wheels. And to be honest I'm even more why the hell would you buy a STI, the price difference in Aust is 25K. So.... we also get the STI exhaust, afew other STI goodies have also made it way in and there's a quite nice boxer rumble from the quad pipes. Drinving up the test road, KB noted hte back end just didnt seem in sync with the front, leading to some unsettled feelings and odd behavior over bumps. From the passenger seat it seemed that way too, the usual high speed maniac corner that either the 06 or 07 can rip around at 160 kph was not exactly confidence inspiring. It feels to me that there's too much dependance on tyre grip to achive cornering when the 06 on narrower tyres would be lacking the grip but you can still go faster due to just plain better balance. Brakes? Much of a muchness, the removal of the four pots frankly isnt an issue. When I got my hands on it, I found the fun police button(! cool points for sure) and the chassis felt better immediatly with it off. The back end felt better controlled and there was less understeer - but still the 06 or 07 would give the newer more solid feeling 11 an kicking to the kerb. Until there's a straight and the 11 can open up, which is definatly better. I'll put money down I can top any 11 in the 06 around a track or a gravel road tho. The 11 is a more refined and better riding car, a more solid feel and that's appreciated. But it's not an 06. Now that's not to say we didnt id some simple fixes. Change rear suspension, better alignment, keep the skid control off. There's potential in the chassis if you decide to make it work like an 06. Not really a compelling car tho after what I drive day to day. If I never had a WRX I'd be drooling and I'd be sold. But sorry post 07 drivers, none of them is better than the 06 yet. That's not to say that I dont see the potential for just some very simple changes to make it really loving go like hell - but think about it, I spent 5 years in a WRX and never for one moment wanted to change it. Also thinking of the MY10-11 STI, there's something wrong with the electronics in the suspension. We saw in June one corner where we could guarenttee any post 08 STI would have a lot of trouble and spin, no matter the driver. And other cars have no problem - Something would trigger the nannies to go loving nuts. 4. Ford Territory Okay not a Subaru. But we did check out the Ford car lot and got a test drive of a 11 Diesel Territory. This is a really bad idea if you want an Outback as the Territory, unlike pretty much every other 'SUV' large AWD is not just a drat godo thing to steer (2 ton of car handling that well is ridiculous), plenty of torque, very decent auto (as they go, autos suck) and god drat so well built! I dont know why the USA Ford dealers dont cause a riot to get this absolute jaw dropper. Terrific crossover that simply blows anthing in the class away and really the Outback just can not in any way or any measure match. Pity it's about 5K too expensive, it's a right ripper of a car. Wonder what I'll do?
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Jul 11, 2011 12:12
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Upgrading the struts/springs in an 09+ WRX is basically mandatory, it's the single largest problem with the car (besides the pistons). While you're under the car you might as well replace all the other bushings as well.
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Jul 11, 2011 13:19
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Can we go back to intakechat for a minute? Because I bought A Thing. Someone had an AEM intake on craigslist for 75 dollars, I couldn't pass it up. Just needs a new filter. I keep seeing conflicting stories on LegacyGT. Some guys are saying they just put it on and reset the ECU, car compensated fine and there was no issues. Other guys are saying if you even so much as put it next to your car without changing the MAF scaling your car is going to explode. Bone stock 2007 Legacy GT.
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Jul 11, 2011 14:40
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Cat Terrist posted:2. 2011 Outback diesel My second car is a 2011 3.6R Limited Outback with all the bells and whistles. It's really a great car and the 6 makes it livable when getting out of my STI and into the Outback, lots of get up and go. We of course don't get the diesel here and the 2.5i was gutless beyond belief. The downfall is that the 3.6R gets abysmal gas milage, it's nearly as bad as my STI but it's worth it for the power.
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Jul 11, 2011 14:53
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Cat Terrist posted:3. MY11 WRX hatch Mechanically, it's solid, but body-wise you'll be replacing both bumper covers, side skirts, fender liners and other bodywork pieces yearly, even if you just autocross on tarmac on sunny days. Subaru have really cheaped out on the new cars and it's terrible for a company that, no matter what else they did, you could at least trust the car to hold up to a bollocking once in awhile. Plus, the lack of a rear VLSD in the WRX just ain't right. Even GM can make that an option. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 15:22 on Jul 11, 2011 |
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Jul 11, 2011 15:17
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FENCH DIGGITY posted:Other guys are saying if you even so much as put it next to your car without changing the MAF scaling your car is going to explode. That's because those idiots bought the Imprezza's intake. The Legacy uses a slightly larger tube. Measure the internal diameter of your intake, the legacy uses a 70mm diameter. Anything smaller and you've got the imprezza intake and yes you would need a tube to compensate. aka If you bought the imprezza one, sell it to an imprezza guy for $100 and giggle and your new $25.
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Jul 11, 2011 16:34
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Well, it's definitely the model they market as a Legacy intake. The Impreza intake looks a good bit different than what I'm looking at right now. The intake is 66.675mm instead of the stock 70mm, though. So, I may be way off base here, but since the intake is smaller would the car run rich instead of lean? Less air + fuel mix calibrated for 70mm of air = higher ratio of fuel to air? So, no go without a tune? I was finally getting off the "need to buy an intake lolol2fast2furious" kick but for 75 bones I couldn't pass it up. Maybe I'll just sell it on the LGT classifieds. I dunno. There's no reliable Subaru tuners anywhere in my area, if I ever do anything it'll just be the AccessPort route i think.
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Jul 11, 2011 16:42
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Buy an Openport for much less money and get the whatever is appropriate tune for free and tweak from there. http://www.osecuroms.org/
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Jul 11, 2011 20:39
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Wrar posted:Buy an Openport for much less money and get the whatever is appropriate tune for free and tweak from there. http://www.osecuroms.org/ I'd just buy whatever your tuner uses.
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Jul 11, 2011 21:09
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