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The print failed. The base printed fine, but the second color hosed up because I kept the home all gcode in my beginning script. This caused my sensor to stop at the height of the base, and then print at the height of a second base. I'm printing the second color second, and I'll just glue it on. It's a solid enough design so that I'm only placing a few separate pieces, so it shouldn't be a problem. CapnBry posted:Tampa Steelers fans eh? You guys haven't ever gone to OBriens Irish Pub to watch a game have you? I don't like watching games at pubs, and I don't much enjoy watching games with my dad, either. He's one of those angry sports fans quite often.
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Apr 2, 2017 04:25
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 I'm happy with how it came out. Because I had to glue the yellow to the black base, the stars are just slightly off-center, but not enough to be distracting, I think. I used four of these rare earth magnets from Harbor Freight on the back, with holes on the base for them.
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Apr 2, 2017 19:37
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Wow, that came out amazing! Really good work there.
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Apr 2, 2017 23:44
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El Estrago Bonito posted:A few pages back but my friend does a lot of printing in AUS and he says the Aurarum stuff is awesome, especially the glow in the dark. I've been using the black a lot lately. It performs really well. My only complaint is the design of the filament roll is poo poo. The two halves don't mate properly and it catches on the edge of my roll holder (which isn't rounded for some bloody reason). I had to print out a rounded holder.
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Apr 3, 2017 03:57
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Any recommendations for a gray PLA that works well for imitating a dull metal look? Not expecting luminosity or shine or anything, more just talking color wise. I have Atomic's gray PLA, it it's darker than I'd like. Need to get prepared to print Stanley Cups for mom's birthday. I could paint, but not happy with how the paint worked with my Zelda case emboss print, the spray paint drips down to the bottom and gathers there.
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Apr 3, 2017 16:15
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Revol posted:I could paint, but not happy with how the paint worked with my Zelda case emboss print, the spray paint drips down to the bottom and gathers there. If it's pooling you need to do light, repeated coats and not try to cover everything in all one go.
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Apr 3, 2017 20:54
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cakesmith handyman posted:Confusingly there are multiple versions, I was only considering the version titled "full metal" jacket. I'll do more research or just buy the loving thing and report back. Its still going to have a bare rear end power supply so if this is a parent / child activity, I'd be wary. moron izzard fucked around with this message at 00:17 on Apr 4, 2017 |
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Apr 4, 2017 00:12
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I have a good power supply I can substitute and enclose, thanks for the heads up.
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Apr 4, 2017 17:27
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We have a Flashforge Creator X at work that hasn't been touched in a couple years, we just dusted it off and it prints fine... if a bit sloppy. Does anyone use one of these currently? Have there been any advancements in firmware (we're using a 2014 Sailfish firmware) or any modernized Slicers/Printers (I found a newer version of Slic3r, to slice, and I'm still using the old ReplicatorG to print)? Zero VGS fucked around with this message at 21:37 on Apr 6, 2017 |
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Apr 6, 2017 21:34
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Could you ditch the electronics and hook up an arduino/RAMPS to use modern marlin firmware?
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Apr 6, 2017 21:46
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Zero VGS posted:We have a Flashforge Creator X at work that hasn't been touched in a couple years, we just dusted it off and it prints fine... if a bit sloppy. Nothing official regarding firmware. You could probably use the latest version of Sailfish and see how it works out. I thought about getting one, but I've honestly been satisfied with my Monoprice Maker Select V2 with minimal modifications (haven't done the Z-brace yet, haven't seen a need to push speeds).
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Apr 6, 2017 22:06
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I keep my maker select around 40mm/s and it prints great. No z bracing for me either.
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Apr 6, 2017 22:21
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Nothing official regarding firmware. Yeah that 2014 Sailfish is what it was on when I stopped using it... mewse posted:Could you ditch the electronics and hook up an arduino/RAMPS to use modern marlin firmware? What's the best guide for this? I just get one of these and switch the guts out? https://www.amazon.com/OSOYOO-Printer-Controller-Stepper-Heatsink/dp/B0111ZSS2O/
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Apr 6, 2017 23:09
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After getting extremely discouraged after my printouts kept getting worse and worse I basically shelved my Makerfarm Pegasus 8" for 15 months. Finally got the drive to get it working again. Updated the firmware, undid most of the poo poo I was attempting to do, mostly the auto bed leveling project that failed horribly which was the final straw. I'm attempting to just get the drat bed height set right and can't get it. Right now the bed doesn't have springs, they're using solid bushings. As I recall a lot of people back then did that since the whole frame is v-slot extrusion it's pretty solid. Is that just stupid and I should put the springs back in? The actual differences when attempting to set the height between sides seems almost nil, but maybe it's dumb. What gap should I be looking for when setting the height? Like, in millimeters. I have feeler gauges that go down to 0.04mm if that's thin enough, which is a lot more precise than "piece of paper that drags but not too much but a little you get the idea". Paper comes in a lot of thicknesses. Also, my ABS spool has been sitting in the open for 16ish months. I do live in Arizona, so it's pretty dry, but I don't know if it might be trash at this point or not.
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Apr 7, 2017 01:11
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PirateDentist posted:Also, my ABS spool has been sitting in the open for 16ish months. I do live in Arizona, so it's pretty dry, but I don't know if it might be trash at this point or not. ABS doesn't absorb water anywhere near PLA or nylon. I wouldn't worry about that, particularly with the dry climate. It can turn brittle though, but it's probably fine if it doesn't snap while you're handling it to insert it into your extruder.
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Apr 7, 2017 01:56
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Zero VGS posted:What's the best guide for this? I just get one of these and switch the guts out? https://www.amazon.com/OSOYOO-Printer-Controller-Stepper-Heatsink/dp/B0111ZSS2O/ I'm not sure. That's the exact hardware you'd need, but you'd have to figure out how compatible all the existing bits are. Presumably there are standard NEMA 17 stepper motors, and uncomplicated endstops. I've been watching build videos on youtube recently -- Tom's Prusa i3 mk2 clone and Tech2C's hypercube build and they've really shown me that controlling these things isn't (entirely) rocket science.
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Apr 7, 2017 02:33
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I often see people talk about print speeds by quoting their mm/s, which is fine for discussing geometry errors that come from throwing around a hotend at high speeds but doesn't do much to describe just how much of a model is being generated per second. The reason is because of layer height and extrusion width. If you're printing 80mm/s with a 0.4mm extrusion width and 0.1mm layer height, you're completing the same amount of your model per second as someone using a 0.2mm layer height, 0.8mm extrusion width, at 20mm/s. If we're going to compare numbers we need to look at mm^3/s or the amount of plastic that is being laid down per minute. The formula for area is simple, as extrusion is modeled as two semi-circles that are a layer height high, connected with a rectangle of the same height: Pi * Layer Height ^ 2 + Layer Height * (Extrusion Width - Layer Height). Then we multiply by the speed to get mm^3/s or volumetric speed. Because we know the density of our filaments (1.25g/cm3 for PLA and 1.04g/cm3 for ABS) we can also calculate how many g/s we're extruding. This is important to compare to determine hotend efficiency, as PLA takes 20% more heat to melt than ABS so volume alone is not a good enough statistic. I did some testing with my official E3D Volcano with a 0.6mm nozzle and 35W heater to see how much volume I could push through it without seeing the stepper or drive gear skipping. What I was surprised to learn was that the volume of extruded plastic drops off well before I could notice any problems on the extruder, somewhere below 85% of requested mass is where it becomes noticeable. To test, I extruded lengths of filament at different temperatures and feed rates and weighed the amount of plastic that came out. Care was taken to keep the hobbed gear clean during extruding, which is more attention than all of our prints would ever get. The stepper motor current was set high enough to make sure the filament would start to strip before the motor would skip steps, and those where it noticeably skipped filament are indicated with a red background. Extruder temperature at the worst was within 1.2C of target during extrusion. EDIT: Note that in the charts below, g/s should be mg/s. Thanks to greenman100 for pointing this out.  I print with the parameters shown on the bottom left, 0.24mm layer height 0.7mm extrusion width at 65mm/s, which is a little more than 10mm3/s. Looking at the temperature chart at my extruder temperature of 230C, I can interpolate that at this speed, I get about 99% of my requested filament. If I dropped to 210C, I'd only get ~93% of my requested filament.  I also did ABS, which I print at 250C, but we see that I can lower my extruder temperature to 240C and still get the same amount of plastic out. However, I am underextruding by 2.6% which made me happy to see because I have a 1.02 extrusion multiplier for ABS in Slic3r to get prints the same as my PLA. I can also use this chart to set my max volumetric feed rate in smoothieware by material and temperature (M203 Vxx) to get at least 97% extrusion fulfillment code:CapnBry fucked around with this message at 13:10 on Apr 7, 2017 |
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Apr 7, 2017 05:13
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Really nice work, and in line with what I've observed and E3D's test data. While PLA has a higher density, ABS has a higher specific heat, at least for the examples I looked up. I suspect that the heat required is pretty similar. Melt flow rate likely matters more. Your g/s calcs is off by a few decimal places btw. greenman100 fucked around with this message at 05:43 on Apr 7, 2017 |
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Apr 7, 2017 05:37
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greenman100 posted:Really nice work, and in line with what I've observed and E3D's test data. You wouldn't happen to know where I can find more information on E3D's testing? I've google around but could only find folks quoting numbers like "E3D v6 flow rate tops out at 8-10 mm3/s". I would think it would vary based on nozzle size and if you're using 1.75mm or 3mm filament but I am way too lazy to test all the combinations. And whoops yes you're right, that's not g/s it is mg/s!
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Apr 7, 2017 13:09
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https://www.engadget.com/2017/04/07/mclaren-f1-3d-print-parts/ I...what? Pure marketing I imagine, why not just have a box of pre printed parts? there is no way this is an efficient use of time
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Apr 7, 2017 16:33
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PirateDentist posted:What gap should I be looking for when setting the height? Like, in millimeters. I have feeler gauges that go down to 0.04mm if that's thin enough, which is a lot more precise than "piece of paper that drags but not too much but a little you get the idea". Paper comes in a lot of thicknesses. The gap that I shoot for is such that a 0.10mm feeler gauge can fit between the nozzle and the bed but a 0.15mm can't. This gets me a pretty squashed first layer which is sometimes hard to remove even with blue tape on the bed but it's not so close that the head crashes or the filament backs up. e: if it matters, I've got a 0.4mm nozzle
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Apr 7, 2017 21:53
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csammis posted:The gap that I shoot for is such that a 0.10mm feeler gauge can fit between the nozzle and the bed but a 0.15mm can't. This gets me a pretty squashed first layer which is sometimes hard to remove even with blue tape on the bed but it's not so close that the head crashes or the filament backs up. Out of curiosity with that precise measurement of nozzle height, what are you setting your first layer height to in your slicer?
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Apr 7, 2017 22:11
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PirateDentist posted:After getting extremely discouraged after my printouts kept getting worse and worse I basically shelved my Makerfarm Pegasus 8" for 15 months. I have a Pegasus 10", and I've always used springs. Don't like the idea with using something solid, not with how many times I've crashed into the bed. I haven't had any issues arise from my use of the springs, so I never bothered otherwise. One of my most frustrating experiences with 3D printing has been the damned paper thinness poo poo. Different paper is one thing, but the idea of when you've reached that thinness. Do you accept it when it just barely creates friction, or go a little further? For something that needs an exact measurement, there is no exact science to it. But, now that I have a BLTouch, I only need to do the measurement once, and now I haven't had to gently caress with it in over a month.
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Apr 8, 2017 01:21
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bring back old gbs posted:https://www.engadget.com/2017/04/07/mclaren-f1-3d-print-parts/ Logistics is nearly the biggest part of organising a team race like this. For the little aero trim parts they'll likely be making there are a thousand combinations they could use and if they can carry a smaller selection and print exactly what required for the track conditions they'll reduce inventory.
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Apr 8, 2017 12:38
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mewse posted:Out of curiosity with that precise measurement of nozzle height, what are you setting your first layer height to in your slicer? 0.2mm
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Apr 8, 2017 16:49
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the bed on my powerspec pro 2 is slightly warped (middle is higher than the front two corners). wat do? Are there premade MIC6 upgrades anywhere? Drop in replacement beds that aren't warped?
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Apr 8, 2017 17:01
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Aurium posted:ABS doesn't absorb water anywhere near PLA or nylon. I wouldn't worry about that, particularly with the dry climate. It can turn brittle though, but it's probably fine if it doesn't snap while you're handling it to insert it into your extruder. Good to know. It seems just as pliable as before. I'll store future rolls a bit better to be on the safe side. csammis posted:The gap that I shoot for is such that a 0.10mm feeler gauge can fit between the nozzle and the bed but a 0.15mm can't. This gets me a pretty squashed first layer which is sometimes hard to remove even with blue tape on the bed but it's not so close that the head crashes or the filament backs up. Thank you. I finally have a good place to start from. Nice solid adhesion for my test box with only a few oddities to try and work out. I think I need to build a better spool holder now, this current one is absolute poo poo and doesn't allow it to spin freely at all.
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Apr 9, 2017 01:34
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PirateDentist posted:I think I need to build a better spool holder now, this current one is absolute poo poo and doesn't allow it to spin freely at all. Yeah, the laser cut spool holder bar on the Pegasus is bad, printing a replacement is a must. I only replaced the bar. I'm on my second one now, and it's breaking too, perhaps because PLA is a bit too brittle.
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Apr 9, 2017 02:18
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Revol posted:Yeah, the laser cut spool holder bar on the Pegasus is bad, printing a replacement is a must. I only replaced the bar. I'm on my second one now, and it's breaking too, perhaps because PLA is a bit too brittle. I used a spare combination wrench from my garage for the bar that sits across the spool holder that came with my Pegasus. On other occasions I've also used a really long bolt or a screwdriver. I eventually removed it from the top of the printer because I didn't like having a big chunk of mass sitting up that high on the frame.
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Apr 9, 2017 03:34
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torpedan posted:I eventually removed it from the top of the printer because I didn't like having a big chunk of mass sitting up that high on the frame. I just mounted the spool topside on this Chinese printer of mine earlier today, and it's really showing in the surface of the print that's running right now. The 2020 frame is reasonably stiff, but having an extra couple of pounds up there is obviously amplifying every little jiggle. It'll be coming back off shortly.
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Apr 9, 2017 04:08
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Revol posted:Yeah, the laser cut spool holder bar on the Pegasus is bad, printing a replacement is a must. I only replaced the bar. I'm on my second one now, and it's breaking too, perhaps because PLA is a bit too brittle. The vertical parts are too close together for this spool. I don't want to use that one for long anyways, I want to have it mounted above a enclosure of some sort. A shame Ikea doesn't sell that cabinet that'd be perfect anymore. Might try a Lack based one, though I'd need to make some risers. Going to switch back to the springs for the heat bed in a few days. Still having problems. I ordered one of those Aerogel blanket sheets for a heat bed insulator, so I'll install it at the same time I do the springs so I only have to do this once.
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Apr 9, 2017 21:50
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Keep having failed prints lately - PLA on an Ultem build surface heated to 60C. It's worked reliably before, but I'm trying to do things with an 0.25mm nozzle instead of the usual 0.4mm one and just keep having the raft come off. Anything to try? I'm thinking of writing off the 0.25mm nozzle experiments at this point.
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Apr 10, 2017 13:52
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mekilljoydammit posted:Keep having failed prints lately - PLA on an Ultem build surface heated to 60C. It's worked reliably before, but I'm trying to do things with an 0.25mm nozzle instead of the usual 0.4mm one and just keep having the raft come off. Anything to try? I'm thinking of writing off the 0.25mm nozzle experiments at this point. Might try tightening up your bed-leveling tolerance. A .25mm nozzle will put down less material and might need a better squish to stick than .4mm.
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Apr 10, 2017 13:54
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AlexDeGruven posted:Might try tightening up your bed-leveling tolerance. A .25mm nozzle will put down less material and might need a better squish to stick than .4mm. Yeah, worth a try - I did a quick and dirty relevel last night with a field expedient .15mm feeler gauge (folded piece of paper) and the middle part of the bed is pretty decent but maybe I need to jam it in harder. Watching it laying down the raft, everything does seem pretty nice and even - but then it broke off around 3-4 hours into the print. Then again, one of the parts in the print had plastic stop getting added so maybe there's other issues too. I suppose it does make sense that an 0.25mm nozzle is going to be more fiddly...
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Apr 10, 2017 14:34
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I find I can almost eye ball it, but the final touch is done with a dial indicator. Finally put up a video of mine in use. Being able to see exactly how much the bed is raising or lowering as you adjust the screws is great. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fwW55LVK3Tc Golluk fucked around with this message at 16:30 on Apr 10, 2017 |
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Apr 10, 2017 16:25
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You'll also want to slow everything down by the difference between the nozzle diameters, since the lines put down by the .25mm nozzle will be a lot more delicate than the .4mm nozzle.
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Apr 10, 2017 16:26
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I printed new endstop mounts over the weekend. Replaced X and Y because I didn't want to screw with my Z height. The new position of the X endstop caused the wires to interfere with the Z endstop and the nozzle crashed HARD into the bed  So then I replaced the Z endstop mount and now my initial layer height is all hosed up  Luckily I only have 1 more part to print for my mk2 clone build E: oh, question! Does the output from M503 basically give me everything I need to craft a new configuration.h if I want to go to new Marlin firmware? mewse fucked around with this message at 16:56 on Apr 10, 2017 |
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Apr 10, 2017 16:53
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mewse posted:I printed new endstop mounts over the weekend. No. M503 will reply with how to copy the settings as Gcode. You'll have to print out the reply and brush up on what the various G & M codes mean and then translate that into the appropriate places in your configuration.h file. Or you could just put the entire string of codes in your Starting Gcode to really cheat.
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Apr 10, 2017 17:06
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biracial bear for uncut posted:No. M503 will reply with how to copy the settings as Gcode. You'll have to print out the reply and brush up on what the various G & M codes mean and then translate that into the appropriate places in your configuration.h file. I didn't mean literally copy/paste into the header, I meant is that all the info I'd need before wiping out the old firmware. I know steps per mm are the most important values for calibration but there's all that other stuff too.
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Apr 10, 2017 17:20
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It should be the majority of the information. The usual caveat emptor stuff applies though, depending on how well you know your particular printer.
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Apr 10, 2017 18:32
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