|
Jenkl posted:So what's the deal with LVT/P on stairs? I haven’t seen it done well. My parents put in a system that had “stair nose caps” meant to use with regular LVP planks but they were slightly raised and seemed like a trip hazard. They didn’t hold up very well either. When I put in Shaw LVP, I bought the stair tread kit that was supposed to match the LVP at $50 a stair, but they were fiber board junk with a vinyl pattern printed on. You still have to flush-cut your construction-lumber stairs and use a tread jig to custom-fit each tread topper, so it didn’t seem much easier than buying real hardwood tread/riser kits for $35/stair at Menards. Im an amateur, so it took forever to get the hardwood installed, but I had a lot of trouble getting realistic bids for someone else to refinish the stairs. Carpet would have been way less headache.
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2021 23:48
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 11, 2024 13:49 |
|
|
Vintersorg posted:Too late cause I already emailed him. In that video the tile was installed directly onto the drywall. There is no situation where that is appropriate inside a shower (regular drywall or green board) except for areas above the shower head, but I really don't like it even in that location. Cement board by itself also isn't a solution. The issue is that whether drywall is used or cement board is used, they are both simply structural substrates and not the waterproof layer that your shower will need. That said, it is possible to install cement board with a vapor barrier and call it good, but I'm not terribly comfortable with that so it's easier to just make a blanket statement that a waterproof layer is needed. There's a lot of different assemblies that work in showers. The problem is the bad ones can cause an absolutely mental amount of damage.
|
|
#
?
Feb 14, 2021 23:52
|
|
|
eddiewalker posted:I haven’t seen it done well. My parents put in a system that had “stair nose caps” meant to use with regular LVP planks but they were slightly raised and seemed like a trip hazard. They didn’t hold up very well either. I was worried about that. I'm not sure what we'll end up doing. It's for a basement with some low spots, so the vinyl down there is basically a given.
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2021 00:17
|
|
|
tetrapyloctomy posted:Because of how the angles all come together I think you're going to end up with an awkward look if you put anything with additional thickness over the existing drywall. You might be stuck just getting someone who can do a good job skimcoating it.  that's kind of what I figured
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2021 00:40
|
|
|
When I redid my shower, I ended up doing hardibacker (a cement board product) and redgard over that for the waterproofing portion. There’s no situation where I would do tile over drywall for a shower. Even the glue-up plastic wall panel kits say to at least use the moisture resistant variety.
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2021 02:33
|
|
|
He got back to me and says he’s using the “Kerdi System” which from a quick browse says is actually good. And says if something ever happens we have bigger issues. I’ll hold off for now.
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2021 02:49
|
|
|
If there's drywall involved he ain't using the kerdi system.
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2021 04:01
|
|
|
  the normal outlet covers hide so many more sins.
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2021 04:15
|
|
|
NomNomNom posted:If there's drywall involved he ain't using the kerdi system. There is kerdi board and kerdi membrane. The membrane can go over drywall. I'm not a fan of that application, but it is allowed.
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2021 04:57
|
|
|
Appraisal came in not great not terrible, upshot is we'll have all of the money we expected for some pre-move updates. What a huge relief. Hot drat there are a lot of decisions to be made. So, I'm researching. Some things I know more about, some things I'm clueless about. Here's one in the latter camp: blinds. Don't know a drat thing about buying them. Where do I get them? Who installs them? Are there go-to brands? Someone way upthread recommended Bali blinds from blinds.com, is that the common wisdom best source? The rental we're in has a bunch of Bali blinds and they are dogshit, but then again it's a house full of the landlord special: https://twitter.com/smallestslime/status/1360823749059182593?s=19 So I'm guessing they sprang for the cheapest possible option.
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2021 05:34
|
|
|
We have Bali cell shades, not mini blinds. All miniblinds are poo poo.
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2021 05:38
|
|
|
shirts and skins posted:https://twitter.com/smallestslime/status/1360823749059182593?s=19 This picture reminds me of an apartment I rented that was originally built in the 80s, and I discovered that what I thought was an accent on some moulding was actually an abandoned phone line that had been painted over a hundred times.
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2021 05:42
|
|
|
I have a very nice light fitting that's free if anyone wants it and is able to repair electrical stuff. It was non functioning on delivery with a loose wire, and the company just shipped another one. It's one of these with an anthracite shade, cost 330 CHF and I love its replacement which is over my dining table. https://www.helestra.de/de/products/bora%20Pendel%20lang%20nickel What's wrong with it is the low voltage wire from the controller isn't attached to the pulley and the suspension / power wire. Pic below, it was difficult to access the pulley without taking the whole thing apart, which I didn't want to do on an expensive lamp but someone may want to have a go at if it's free?  It's 240V only. Lemme know if you want it and I'll work out shipping, otherwise its going in the bin which seems a shame.
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2021 12:37
|
|
|
shirts and skins posted:Someone way upthread recommended Bali blinds from blinds.com, is that the common wisdom best source? The rental we're in has a bunch of Bali blinds and they are dogshit, but then again it's a house full of the landlord special: There's a ton of blinds/shades sellers out there but most of the time they are just reselling Bali or Levolor shades. You'll know for sure based on the color names. These sites are always running "sales" so find the color and style you want then price check the same size shade at about a half dozen places (Blinds.com, Select Blinds, Just Blinds, Lowes, Costco, etc) and find which place has the best price that day. I have some Bali cellular shades and they are also fine.
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2021 12:56
|
|
|
Thanks all! Very helpful. We're going to get something cordless to avoid child death. Can't wait to get out of this lovely rental. Another question: ceiling paint, good idea because it's more viscous and easier to apply, or bad idea because it won't look like your wall paint?
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2021 13:39
|
|
|
Blowjob Overtime posted:Once again realized this is a Home Zone question, not a fix it fast thing: Honestly we have wallpaper everywhere, and one of our rooms has some wood (bamboo?) lattice look paper on the ceiling that is slightly textured and looks really good. Our living room is white with a tin ceiling-inspired pinwheel pattern and it's also very good. And the glow-in-the-dark stars paper in the kid's bedroom is also good…
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2021 13:49
|
|
|
Other board-look and heck even retro paisley wallpaper can be nice
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2021 13:53
|
|
|
shirts and skins posted:Another question: ceiling paint, good idea because it's more viscous and easier to apply, or bad idea because it won't look like your wall paint? I buy the $60/gal stuff for my walls and the $18/gal stuff for my ceiling and it looks fine. https://www.homedepot.com/p/BEHR-PREMIUM-PLUS-2-gal-Ultra-Pure-White-Ceiling-Flat-Interior-Paint-55802/100183930 edit: speaking of paint, I finally got some paint on my living room walls this weekend and I hope I didn't just make a terrible mistake!!  (it's really more green irl) Sirotan fucked around with this message at 14:38 on Feb 15, 2021 |
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2021 14:36
|
|
|
peanut posted:Honestly we have wallpaper everywhere, and one of our rooms has some wood (bamboo?) lattice look paper on the ceiling that is slightly textured and looks really good. Our living room is white with a tin ceiling-inspired pinwheel pattern and it's also very good. And the glow-in-the-dark stars paper in the kid's bedroom is also good… Oooh, yeah, I did forget about something like those tin ceiling panels. We may have to see if there is something along those lines that matches whatever we end up doing with the kitchen.
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2021 15:12
|
|
|
knox_harrington posted:I have a very nice light fitting that's free if anyone wants it and is able to repair electrical stuff. It was non functioning on delivery with a loose wire, and the company just shipped another one. Shipping to the UK would be a killer otherwise I'd be up to repair that.
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2021 15:21
|
|
|
I've gone down the bathroom flooring rabbit hole since posting about my bad tiles the other day. My wife's started getting ideas about under-floor heat too. Here's what I'm currently thinking the process would be: 1. Remove clawfoot tub and toilet 2. Feather finish concrete over existing uneven tiles (would this even be needed with LVP?) 3. Install 10' x 3' floor heating system (QuietWarmth seems to have good reviews?). This would cover 90% of the usable bathroom space. Might need an electrician to install the thermostat. 4. Install LVP on top of everything else 5. Replace tub and toilet, install quarter round trim around edge of floor Does that sound about right? The bathroom's roughly 50 square feet, I thinking we could get this done for under $500, not including electrician.
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2021 15:30
|
|
|
Look in to schluter ditra heat if you're using electric. It includes the underlayment stuff made for it and it's a breeze. Just installed in my kitchen, but porcelain tiles. I still question if LVP can properly sustain weight of a tub, especially of a foot ends up on or near a seam.
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2021 15:57
|
|
|
My girlfriend and I are looking at an older house that turns out to have some roof issues with the rear extension, which was basically flat. It was shingled, and should not have been because it's not a steep enough grade for water to drain off. We got a roofer out there to get an opinion for us, but we had to go with a smaller guy because I guess in Maryland (maybe everywhere?) big roof companies only come out for whomever currently owns the house. As a maybe medium judge of character, this guy seemed like the sort of guy who wants to do everything "correctly" (what he sees as correct) the first time rather than gently caress around with inexpensive stuff that might cost you more in the long term. Of course, that is also conveniently the bigger job for him! The main roof is also pretty old, it's at 3 layers of shingles on the back half for sure (legal maximum in Maryland) and might be only at 2 in the front half but the whole thing is pretty old and probably has just a couple years on it. This roofer basically told me that he would want to do the whole thing (main roof, followed by extension) because the work on the main roof would likely drop trash on the flat roof and so if we did the extension flat roof first followed by the main roof a year or two later, sharp objects might drop off the main roof and compromise the flat root. I'm trying to figure out if he was selling me a line of bullshit on that or if that's really something that would be a problem.
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2021 16:34
|
|
|
cakesmith handyman posted:Shipping to the UK would be a killer otherwise I'd be up to repair that. I'd be interested and in Germany, if shipping to UK turns out to be too complicated.
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2021 16:42
|
|
|
shirts and skins posted:Thanks all! Very helpful. We're going to get something cordless to avoid child death. Can't wait to get out of this lovely rental. Sirotan posted:There's a ton of blinds/shades sellers out there but most of the time they are just reselling Bali or Levolor shades. You'll know for sure based on the color names. These sites are always running "sales" so find the color and style you want then price check the same size shade at about a half dozen places (Blinds.com, Select Blinds, Just Blinds, Lowes, Costco, etc) and find which place has the best price that day. You can also just call like blinds.com and give them your specs and ask them to give you a better promo. We used them for every window in our house and they're great. We did the whole thing - measure, buy, install through them and it's worth every penny. My sons nearly 5 year old bali cordless cell shades have taken a beating and still work. He literally would sit there swinging the one by his bed with his feet in lieu of napping. They show wear, but they work. Ceiling paint: If you need to cover another color, buy real paint. It will take 3 coats and 2-3 gallons to do a 12x12 ceiling.  (Or try a primer first.) If you're just freshening up a white ceiling, don't make a rookie mistake - buy the purple color change stuff. It's totally awesome.
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2021 16:54
|
|
|
Looks like postage would be 57 CHF to the UK or 42 to Germany
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2021 16:55
|
|
|
shirts and skins posted:Appraisal came in not great not terrible, upshot is we'll have all of the money we expected for some pre-move updates. What a huge relief. Hot drat there are a lot of decisions to be made. That thread is full of apartment horrors, but also this: https://twitter.com/noahsentireass/status/1361127477481988096?s=20 EDIT:  https://twitter.com/moon_object/status/1361109655368433667?s=20 Dick Trauma fucked around with this message at 17:07 on Feb 15, 2021 |
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2021 17:04
|
|
|
knox_harrington posted:Looks like postage would be 57 CHF to the UK or 42 to Germany Grim Up North posted:I'd be interested and in Germany, if shipping to UK turns out to be too complicated. You take this one buddy, I don't need it and that's a bit much for something just to play around with.
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2021 17:26
|
|
|
e: oh wait I'm an idiot who liked the design before realizing it wouldn't be compatible with US 110. El Mero Mero fucked around with this message at 08:20 on Feb 16, 2021 |
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2021 17:35
|
|
|
falz posted:Look in to schluter ditra heat if you're using electric. It includes the underlayment stuff made for it and it's a breeze. Just installed in my kitchen, but porcelain tiles. The tub's "full" weight is listed as just under 400 lbs. I couldn't find a weight limit for the LVP with a quick Google, but spread across 4 feet that doesn't seem too excessive. Definitely something to consider though.
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2021 17:46
|
|
|
Tub plus water plus human definitely would be heavier than 400lbs. It's cast iron I presume? I guess just check if others have done this and experience after a year. While I did cheap out and put lvp in a bathroom (the one that the shower isn't really used), porcelain tile is probably a better choice for water environments, hence the Ditra Heat suggestion. The thermostat, which is really more of a power source converting ac to dc for the wire, probably needs a dedicated circuit to the breaker as well.
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2021 17:55
|
|
|
Danhenge posted:The main roof is also pretty old, it's at 3 layers of shingles on the back half for sure (legal maximum in Maryland) and might be only at 2 in the front half but the whole thing is pretty old and probably has just a couple years on it. This roofer basically told me that he would want to do the whole thing (main roof, followed by extension) because the work on the main roof would likely drop trash on the flat roof and so if we did the extension flat roof first followed by the main roof a year or two later, sharp objects might drop off the main roof and compromise the flat root. I'm trying to figure out if he was selling me a line of bullshit on that or if that's really something that would be a problem. Yes, it's bullshit. If he really can't police his trash well enough to not damage things below him there is an easy solution: put something on the roof like trash sheets of plywood so it doesn't get damaged.
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2021 18:11
|
|
|
falz posted:Tub plus water plus human definitely would be heavier than 400lbs. It's cast iron I presume? I guess just check if others have done this and experience after a year. It's this thing. Tub itself is 56 lbs, 40 gallons of water is about 350 lbs. A person sitting in the tub would displace some water but I'm not about to calculate the volume of my torso, so let's say 600 lbs all together. I'll do some more research before the debit cards come out. This is just intended as a temporary fix we can do for a couple hundred bucks until we can afford a full remodel with a different tub and new tile. I think the floor heating is running up past our budget the more I look into it.
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2021 18:43
|
|
|
El Mero Mero posted:Well if none of you europeans take it, I'm a bit closer and would gladly take that fixture off your hands. Go ahead and take it then, I think if I mount it above my dining table, I'd need to replace two other lamps, so that it doesn't clash. 
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2021 18:51
|
|
|
If you put a tub on top of LVP--the seams will open eventually. In my experience, LVP sucks if you put any weight on top of it--heavy couches, bookshelves, dressers--all those things will split LVP seams eventually. But then again, I've only ever put LVP over a slab. The temperature change of a slab may be more dramatic and be the cause of the seams coming apart.
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2021 19:58
|
|
|
Blowjob Overtime posted:Looking for opinions on how to finish a ceiling in a portion of a room of our house. We knocked down the popcorn ceilings when we moved in. The ceiling in this portion of the room was extra sealed or super durable or something, and it wouldn't just fall apart with some water like they normally do. As a result it is gouged up and uneven beyond my ability to mud and sand (at least in a reasonable timeframe). Also it's in kind of a unique spot that seems worth doing something different than the rest of the house. My Great Room is like this. For the section at an incline, there are a bunch of recessed lights pointing down to light up the area. Otherwise, all of the walls were done using a smooth drywall finish.  PS: if you are repainting, the area is small enough that you might want to consider a lighter color.
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2021 20:27
|
|
|
Motronic posted:Yes, it's bullshit. If he really can't police his trash well enough to not damage things below him there is an easy solution: put something on the roof like trash sheets of plywood so it doesn't get damaged. Okay, thank you, that's very helpful. Kind of paints the interaction in a different light, I think he may have judged me as any easy mark (probably correct) with a lot of extra cash to burn (extremely wrong). The only other tricky bit is that the chimney needs reflashing or new asphalt cement or whatever where it meets the roof, because it's cracked at present and is letting water drip down the brick and the rafters have water on them in the spot near the chimney. It doesn't look like there's any rot or anything, and I guess my understanding is that old-growth lumber that makes up this building is relatively rot resistant. It also needs repointing in some spots. I know this might be pretty vague, but how is that likely to interact with the need to replace the roof a few years after that work is done?
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2021 20:56
|
|
|
Danhenge posted:The only other tricky bit is that the chimney needs reflashing or new asphalt cement or whatever where it meets the roof, because it's cracked at present and is letting water drip down the brick and the rafters have water on them in the spot near the chimney. It doesn't look like there's any rot or anything, and I guess my understanding is that old-growth lumber that makes up this building is relatively rot resistant. It also needs repointing in some spots. I know this might be pretty vague, but how is that likely to interact with the need to replace the roof a few years after that work is done? The re-pointing is a completely different trade. Any roofer should be replacing all flashing as necessary while putting a roof on. A mason that would be re-pointing a chimney should also be able to replace flashing around the chimney as part of the job if roofing isn't necessary right away.
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2021 21:00
|
|
|
Motronic posted:The re-pointing is a completely different trade. Any roofer should be replacing all flashing as necessary while putting a roof on. A mason that would be re-pointing a chimney should also be able to replace flashing around the chimney as part of the job if roofing isn't necessary right away. Yeah, I know it's a different trade I just wasn't sure about the flashing replacement, etc. Thanks, this is helpful again!
|
|
#
?
Feb 15, 2021 21:07
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 11, 2024 13:49 |
|
|
Toebone posted:It's this thing. That's the tub you're eventually going to replace or the one you want to put in? LVP is a floating floor. You aren't even supposed to put kitchen cabinets on top of that stuff, if you try to do it under a bathtub don't be surprised if the seams open up in a month or two. It probably won't look quite as bad as your kitchen did, but you're talking about a lot of work for what is ultimately a half-assed solution. You want to consider your finished floor height too; the LVP and eventual tile remodel will likely not be the same heights. You might end up doing a bunch of door/trim/etc adjustments for the LVP which are then made pointless by the tile, the alternative being a bunch of gaps that probably won't look better than what you have in there now.
|
|
#
?
Feb 16, 2021 06:26
|
|
