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qirex posted:I ordered a cheap manual flash to play around with, are there any good beginner guides out there including physical books? I’m mostly interested in B&W headshots to start with. My favorite book on using strobes is Light, Science and Magic. It has a lot of the technical stuff on how light works, what to do in certain situations, etc. It’s more about technical than art, but is a nice foundation to build from.
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# ? Jun 10, 2019 15:59 |
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# ? Jun 4, 2024 01:49 |
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Gatts posted:Hello. I intend to buy a Blackmagic Pocket Cinema Camera 4K which is $1300, then buy 3 lenses and I am thinking a Prime, a Telephoto, and a Wide Angle and I want to blow $3500 total, not counting rigs or additional equipment. Couple things: A prime lens is a lens with a fixed focal length. It can be wide angle, long, etc. A zoom is something that has variable focal length, and can also be wide angle, long, or both. The 42.5 and 75 are both on the long end of things and definitely does not make sense to have both unless you knew you wanted them for some reason. You’re also leaving the middle end of focal lengths out entirely with that setup by jumping from 14 all the way to 42.5. When I’m filming I use everything from 17 to 400, but for scripted stuff I’m usually between 25 and 50, with some 21 and 100 on the wide and long ends respectively. That’s on super 35 so the equivalent FOV for the BMPCC4K would be bout 14 to 25 for main and 11 to 50 for the extremes. If you’re filming wildlife you generally want as long a lens you can get, but for video that also means serious business tripod and head unless your stabilization works extremely well for video.
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# ? Jun 10, 2019 16:14 |
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Fools Infinite posted:The BMPCC has a 3x crop factor I think? The 75mm and 42.5mm are both telephoto lenses in that case. A zoom might be more practical if you are going on a safari. It's micro 4/3rds, so 2x crop factor
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# ? Jun 10, 2019 17:21 |
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theHUNGERian posted:In my (limited) experience, continuous autofocus does a better job of focusing moving subjects (butterflies) than I ever could by hand while looking at a tiny 3" screen. Edit: And for still life, of course I use manual focus. The Fuji GFX will do 1:1 with the 120mm macro if you use their 45mm ext tube
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# ? Jun 10, 2019 20:10 |
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powderific posted:Couple things: Thank you very much, I appreciate it.
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# ? Jun 10, 2019 23:09 |
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8th-snype posted:The Fuji GFX will do 1:1 with the 120mm macro if you use their 45mm ext tube This is more like it. Thanks. Unfortunately you cannot get 1:1 and infinity focus.
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# ? Jun 11, 2019 01:52 |
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Additional question, I think if I'm filming out doors, like a safari or nature, what's a good microphone for that? I think I'd want a shotgun and I know RODE's are usually within price range but most reviews talk about interviews. I'd want something that might pick up animals at a distance or ambient nature. Sennheiser makes some good ones too but is that the right choice or is there something more fitting?
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# ? Jun 11, 2019 02:17 |
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I use an audiotechnica AT897. I think k it's very sufficient but you can judge as well. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x_epRnVkvOE No compression, no leveling, full range. Only a 45 second time shift. Sorry about the filthy sensor. Edit: use headphones to get the whole range. um excuse me fucked around with this message at 02:25 on Jun 11, 2019 |
# ? Jun 11, 2019 02:22 |
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Trying to get into working with lighting a bit more, and picked myself up a MK320S speed light to play with. I had one incident where it fired off ~100hz flashes for about a quarter second while moving it by hand. It was definitely not on strobe, or set to that, so I don't think it was an accidental button press. I'm likely going to return or or get a replacement just to be safe(bought on amazon). Since then, I've come across another entry level flash, the Godox TT350s. For about 25 bucks more, it seems to pack on a number of features over the MK320s, most noticeable flash zoom, which I've come across on a few tutorials. Other things are: Can aim up and behind (only up to 90 on mk320s) 2.4ghz wireless slave/master control pull out white reflector card. HSS The only downside seems to be a bit bigger and bulkier than the MK320S. The MK320S has a hot light function that also can double as an AF assist. I also find the charge over USB handy. Overall it seems like a pretty big jump in features for the price. Anyone have experience or thoughts on picking between the two? Golluk fucked around with this message at 03:23 on Jun 11, 2019 |
# ? Jun 11, 2019 03:17 |
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Gatts posted:Additional question, I think if I'm filming out doors, like a safari or nature, what's a good microphone for that? I think I'd want a shotgun and I know RODE's are usually within price range but most reviews talk about interviews. I'd want something that might pick up animals at a distance or ambient nature. Sennheiser makes some good ones too but is that the right choice or is there something more fitting? You might have the wrong impression about audio and mics in general. Mics are not like lenses where you can get a long zoom and capture a specific sound from far away. To capture something super clear, you'd have to be pretty close to the object or hope everything is super quiet and up the sensitivity on your mic. With that said, to start off you'd probably want to get one of these: Shotgun Mics ($ to $$$): - Rode VideoMicro - Azden SMX-15 - Deity D3 Pro Shotgun mics are directional, but you'll still be able to get ambient sound. If all you're doing is looking to record ambient sound though, then a field recorder would probably be more appropriate. For that, you can start with a Zoom H1n
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# ? Jun 11, 2019 03:35 |
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Golluk posted:Trying to get into working with lighting a bit more, and picked myself up a MK320S speed light to play with. I had one incident where it fired off ~100hz flashes for about a quarter second while moving it by hand. It was definitely not on strobe, or set to that, so I don't think it was an accidental button press. I'm likely going to return or or get a replacement just to be safe(bought on amazon). I have no opinion on either flash but this sounds like a modeling light type function—does it mention anything like that in the manual? Could be something that’s press-able by accident.
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# ? Jun 11, 2019 03:55 |
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Constellation I posted:... Mics are not like lenses where you can get a long zoom and capture a specific sound from far away ... Sure you can: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parabolic_microphone
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# ? Jun 11, 2019 04:08 |
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powderific posted:I have no opinion on either flash but this sounds like a modeling light type function—does it mention anything like that in the manual? Could be something that’s press-able by accident. It does have a button for that, but it's far from where I was holding it. And it only fires once if I hold it down. The closest I can get to recreating it, is setting it to multi, 1/128th, 24x, 100hz. It was on slave setting, so my best guess outside a wiring issue, was it thought it saw flashes and went off, then triggered off itself repeatedly.
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# ? Jun 11, 2019 04:09 |
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theHUNGERian posted:In my (limited) experience, continuous autofocus does a better job of focusing moving subjects (butterflies) than I ever could by hand while looking at a tiny 3" screen. People who get really into (spend a lot of money on) in-the-field macro photography end up building elaborate flash rigs, creating a 10-lb monster of a camera with flashes and cables and screens and poo poo sticking out all over. I'm imagining doing that with a medium format and... uh... you already have a gym membership? For reference, here's a beetle that hosed off about 10 seconds after I took this shot. Hand held, face mashed against the eyecup, manual focus 105mm, pop-up flash. Not my best, but I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. Is this roughly the kind of thing you're thinking of using a MF Macro for? 14 May 013 by Martin Brummell, on Flickr Not to dissuade you at all - I'm expecting some goddam fantastic images are possible with a MF Macro setup and a bit of luck / patience. And a macro lens makes a very fine lens for lots of other subjects, particularly portraits and, in my experience, slightly larger wildlife that you manage to get close-enough to, like small birds.
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# ? Jun 11, 2019 04:41 |
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If anyone wants to learn more about nature sound recording, the Nature Sounds Society field workshop is pretty cool. Pretty cheap considering it includes room and board at a research station in the Sierras. Click “events” on this link
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# ? Jun 11, 2019 05:49 |
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ExecuDork posted:Have you tried hand-holding a medium format camera and tracking something like a butterfly? A big-rear end camera is going to be extra-hard to get those flighty bastards with. Why do you want a medium format autofocus digital camera, rather than something that has all of those features except size and costs way less? Another thought: live-view generally sucks for this kind of thing - following pretty little critters through the underbrush is something I do recreationally, and if I didn't have a pentaprism/pentamirror to look at I'd be (even more) useless in the bright sunshine that I prefer to work in. The weight argument, and my realization that I am actually happy with my current setup (A7R3 + 90 mm Sony macro [and others]), have kept me from making the move. I'm just sperging about an artifact (circular color banding, in uncompressed raw files) that showed up in the landscape images of my most recent trip. Extensive investigating led to the conclusion that taping up the electrical contacts on my landscape lens solves the issue for future images. For images I have already shot that are impacted, it turns out that converting them to black and white hides the artifact.
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# ? Jun 11, 2019 14:46 |
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Oh God I'm already going down the rabbit hole of looking at more expensive glass. Opinions on catadioptric lenses for long-range shooting? Are they even still a thing, or is the technology super outdated? They're around for pretty cheap but I'm wondering if there's a good reason for that, advances in telephoto lens technology and whatever.
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# ? Jun 11, 2019 17:24 |
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Mister Speaker posted:Oh God I'm already going down the rabbit hole of looking at more expensive glass. What do you want to take photos of and how good do you want the quality to be?
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# ? Jun 11, 2019 20:15 |
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Might be looking to pick up a wide to short telephoto zoom lens for my a7ii sometime this year. Currently I use an adapted EF 28-135 USM. The zoom range is good, but it has a slow, variable aperture and the optics are a bit rough (old design). I’d like to keep the cost not much over $500, but aside from the FE 28-70 kit lens I’m not seeing much of anything in the native mount in my price range and that lens isn’t very fast either. It seems to me the best choice would be to pick up an EF 24-105 f/4 L lens and just use the adapter I’ve already got. Any considerations I’m missing here?
President Beep fucked around with this message at 02:42 on Jun 13, 2019 |
# ? Jun 13, 2019 02:23 |
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If you're looking at adapting anyway you could get one of the Tamron 28-70 2.8s in EF. Or save more money and get the native e-mount one.
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# ? Jun 13, 2019 03:03 |
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That’s a good suggestion. Looks like Sigma offers similar. I’d be losing a considerable amount of focal range, but that f/2.8 aperture is pretty tempting. I’d save a fair bit of money too.
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# ? Jun 13, 2019 03:21 |
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jarlywarly posted:What do you want to take photos of and how good do you want the quality to be? A recreation of Goatse at a more flattering portrait focal length, and impeccably sharp.
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# ? Jun 13, 2019 17:30 |
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Golluk posted:Since then, I've come across another entry level flash, the Godox TT350s. For about 25 bucks more, it seems to pack on a number of features over the MK320s, most noticeable flash zoom, which I've come across on a few tutorials. Other things are: One thing about the TT350: they run one two AA batteries and in my experience they kinda chew through them fast. I had a look at the MK320 and a question came to mind: is there a reason why you're looking at smaller sized lights aside from cost? I mean they'll work for now since you're learning but you'll most likely outgrow them quickly.
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# ? Jun 13, 2019 20:31 |
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So I'm going backpacking in CO in a month or so (hopefully) and I want to take a bunch of photos during the trip, mostly landscapes. I initially was intrigued by the Ricoh GR III but am also pretty heavily leaning towards the Fuji XF10 since it's like half the price and basically as good. Is there something else I should be considering? I want light, APS-C preferred but as big a sensor as I can get, USB-rechargeable easily, f2.8 or better, and pocketable. I'm also toying with the idea of saying gently caress it and bringing my 80D and a couple lenses but that's probably a silly idea for ~23mi in a wilderness area as a fatass
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# ? Jun 14, 2019 03:20 |
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Being a fatass means it's a smaller proportion of your total weight and therefore less of an issue. Where you going? I grew up backpacking in and around the Weminuche.
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# ? Jun 14, 2019 03:47 |
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bird with big dick posted:Being a fatass means it's a smaller proportion of your total weight and therefore less of an issue. Rawah Wilderness is the plan. And you're right, if I lose 15lbs between now and then it's a net zero
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# ? Jun 14, 2019 03:52 |
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I just rented a GR III and as someone who bought two OG APS-C GRs I found it kinda disappointing. I’d just bring your 80d and one lens that’s whatever the fixed lens you’re looking at is. I’ve started carrying around my Z6 more or just dealing with my GR being the ultimate embodiment of a pocket camera that’ll never get an upgrade I want.
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# ? Jun 14, 2019 04:29 |
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Bubbacub posted:A recreation of Goatse at a more flattering portrait focal length, and impeccably sharp. That's a pretty wide open aperture..
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# ? Jun 14, 2019 09:04 |
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The red ring means quality.
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# ? Jun 14, 2019 09:34 |
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Disappointment seems to be a theme in xf10 reviews, but if it is appealing to you, you might consider a used x70 as well. I do most of my shooting on a gr ii and always recommend it. Even using it as much as I do I couldn't justify the cost of upgrading to the gr iii.
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# ? Jun 14, 2019 14:02 |
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If you're doing daylight the XF10 should be fine, of course at 28mm it's useless for wildlife but should be good for general landscapes. Most of the focus hunting was reported in low light. One other one to think about is some kind of RX100 like a 3 or 4, the sensor is smaller but you still get some zoom and it charges by USB.
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# ? Jun 14, 2019 15:19 |
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ReverendHammer posted:One thing about the TT350: they run one two AA batteries and in my experience they kinda chew through them fast. I do like having a compact set up. Especially since the majority of the photo's I'm taking, involve getting there on a motorcycle. And it fits nicely into my camera case. The ability to charge it up over USB is also handy (camera can too). Outgrowing is a main reason for thinking of switching over to the Godox 350. I could get a 685 later, and either can control the other remotely. There is also the fact I'm often shooting at 1/350s to 1/750s, and it might be nice to use a flash to lighten shadows. This would require HSS though as I understand. Golluk fucked around with this message at 18:45 on Jun 14, 2019 |
# ? Jun 14, 2019 17:17 |
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Alright, I just had my first real night of shooting photos - went out on the town after the Raptors game. Now I've run into an issue with importing and converting files. My Mac, or maybe just Lightroom, doesn't want to read the raw .NEF files from my memory card. Currently I'm just downloading them all to a folder and using Adobe DNG converter to convert them, but does there exist a codec (for Mac OS 10.12) that will allow me to view them directly in Lightroom? I can't seem to find one.
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# ? Jun 14, 2019 20:39 |
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Lightroom itself does the decoding, do you have the latest version installed? Camera support is added by updates.
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# ? Jun 14, 2019 21:13 |
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Golluk posted:I do like having a compact set up. Especially since the majority of the photo's I'm taking, involve getting there on a motorcycle. And it fits nicely into my camera case. The ability to charge it up over USB is also handy (camera can too). I'd say if you're going to be shooting above standard sync speed with the aim to lighten shadows I'd really suggest skipping the TT350 and go for the 685 (or if you can afford to spend more get the VING860IIs which uses Godox's li-ion battery tech which is phenomenal). The 685/860 is quite likely going to serve you better than the 350 will. I know you mentioned having a compact setup but I don't think the trade offs will be worth it.
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# ? Jun 14, 2019 22:12 |
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I've decided to go with the Fuji XT3 instead of the Blackmagic Pocket Cinema 4K. With me having lack of experience with making movies and not being 100% what to expect with the situation and setting, it may not be great to assume I could just film something, and to take good pictures too instead. XT3 Silver Fujinon XF35mmF2 R Fujinon XF16-55mmF2.8 R LM WR Audio-Technica AT8015 microphone Gonna take extra battery and 2 512GB cards.
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# ? Jun 15, 2019 00:53 |
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The 35mm might be nice if you are going to want a more compact kit sometimes, but your money might be better spent elsewhere if you are already getting the 16-55mm 2.8. If you are going on a safari you will probably want a telephoto zoom.
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# ? Jun 15, 2019 02:50 |
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Hahaha, if I buy the below it comes to 4200. Which is technically more than the cost of the safari I'm going on. You're not wrong though, a telephoto is a good idea on a safari. Fuji XT3 Fujinon XF16-55mmF2.8 R LM WR Fujifilm Fujinon XF50-140mmF2.8 R LM OIS WR Audio-Technica AT8015
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# ? Jun 15, 2019 03:32 |
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Gatts posted:Hahaha, if I buy the below it comes to 4200. Which is technically more than the cost of the safari I'm going on. You're not wrong though, a telephoto is a good idea on a safari. I mean, it's right in the thread title "Wildlife Photography: Zooming with your feet may get you mauled" Leaning more towards the Godox TT685S as suggested. But I'll play with this MK320 for the time being. Such as figuring out how not to whiteout someones glasses. Golluk fucked around with this message at 01:51 on Jun 16, 2019 |
# ? Jun 16, 2019 01:48 |
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# ? Jun 4, 2024 01:49 |
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Gatts posted:Hahaha, if I buy the below it comes to 4200. Which is technically more than the cost of the safari I'm going on. You're not wrong though, a telephoto is a good idea on a safari. Why the 16-55 and 50-140? Both the 18-55 and 55-250 are excellent options that happen to be cheaper (and the 55-250 has more reach). That or get the 18-55 and use the pennies for the 100-400 instead?
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# ? Jun 16, 2019 03:30 |