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This is the basement shower the PO installed:  The temperature control doesn't seem to work very well. The temperature barely changes as you adjust it. The temperature control also has a mysterious button:  Depressing that button, it can do a full 360 degree rotation. Without the button depressed, it can only do a 180 degree rotation. Any idea what this button is for? Also, is there anything I can do about the poor temperature control short of a new valve? I have no idea what brand this hardware is, I can't find any branding on it anywhere.
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Oct 10, 2021 17:36
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just another posted:Any idea what this button is for? PageMaster fucked around with this message at 18:00 on Oct 10, 2021 |
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Oct 10, 2021 17:52
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That's a neat feature, I've never seen that before.
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Oct 11, 2021 20:09
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just another posted:That's a neat feature, I've never seen that before. Very common on Euro valves. My Grohe has it, and it's very convenient with an infant.
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Oct 11, 2021 21:20
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melon cat posted:No idea as to the age or kind of concrete used. Possibly poured ~25 years ago. But all I know is that efflorescence cropped up overnight right along a crack in the concrete. You said the basement was seriously wet - was the floor just damp, or did it usually have standing water on it in this area? Here's my initial thought: the crack in the concrete, whenever it occurred, obviously severed the continuation of the concrete and what looks like fiberglass reinforcing strands, to some depth. Normally if the concrete was just dry all the time, and the crack occurred, you'd see some small strands sticking out along the crack line, but nothing significant. If the crack area had been either fairly damp or had standing water, it would have kept the fiber strands in place for the most part due to the expansion of the concrete as it absorbed water/maintained moisture. Once you removed the water, the concrete contracted as the water is removed/evaporating, which then allowed the strands to pop up. Unfortunately while it was wetted/moist, the strand/concrete interface was likely deteriorating, which is why you're seeing long strands now.
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Oct 13, 2021 07:16
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just another posted:That's a neat feature, I've never seen that before. There is good chance that you can pull that handle off and adjust water temperature range underneath. Perhaps the button feature saves you from having to remove the handle. You're best to look up actual instructions before doing anything.
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Oct 13, 2021 17:55
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Please help me with babby's first plumbing problem: I'm trying to connect a wort chiller to my kitchen sink. It looks like I need some kind of M-M adapter (are plumbing bits gendered?) that matches the connector on my faucet head to go between my sink faucet hose and the wort chiller. Here is an imgur gallery with photos helpfully labelled I'm in an apartment and not looking to gently caress anything up. I'm sure this is trivial, but I'm a computer toucher, and not the series of tubes kind. Is there an obvious thing I could just go to Home Depot and buy? Edit: I guess I could tee off the supply line, right? Is that recommended and/or simple? Happiness Commando fucked around with this message at 02:18 on Oct 14, 2021 |
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Oct 14, 2021 02:14
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SourKraut posted:You said the basement was seriously wet - was the floor just damp, or did it usually have standing water on it in this area? edit: I can live with effloresence hair growing out my floor. Let's leave it at that melon cat fucked around with this message at 05:58 on Oct 14, 2021 |
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Oct 14, 2021 03:43
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It's effloresence. It looks like that, sometimes. I've seen it many times over the course of my career.
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Oct 14, 2021 03:46
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Yeah, like PainterofCrap said, it's just effloresence, especially since you said it disintegrates. For some reason when I initially read what you said, I'd interpreted it as thin fiber strands. I'm actually similar in the field on drainage channels that used fiber reinforcement instead of welded wire mesh or rebar, where major cracks occurred or sometimes at CJs.
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Oct 14, 2021 04:06
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Happiness Commando posted:Please help me with babby's first plumbing problem: I'm trying to connect a wort chiller to my kitchen sink. It looks like I need some kind of M-M adapter (are plumbing bits gendered?) that matches the connector on my faucet head to go between my sink faucet hose and the wort chiller. What you need is this BrassCraft 3/8 in. x 3/8 in. x 3/8 in. Compression x Compression Brass T-Fitting https://www.homedepot.com/p/BrassCraft-3-8-in-x-3-8-in-x-3-8-in-Compression-x-Compression-Brass-T-Fitting-CT2-666X-P/202495893 SKU# 202495893 Just use an adjustable wrench to tighten and untighten all the connectors, do not use teflon tape or any kind of sealant. Make sure to turn off the valve before doing any connections, for obvious reasons
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Oct 14, 2021 16:08
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I have a leaky sink faucet. It has slowly extruded weird yellow gunk onto the top of the sink mixed with the water and drips down the back. We don't use it much due to this so I'm gonna make it a project. I want to start by putting shutoffs at the ends of the copper pipes so I can turn the water in the house back on while sorting the rest. Is this correct and how do I size this? This label says 3/8 inlet but I think there's some kind of adapter based on the size of the copper pipe and the number of appropriate places to put a wrench. Here's where I'm thinking the shutoffs should go and the label on the line for hot water.  
Harold Fjord fucked around with this message at 22:10 on Oct 14, 2021 |
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Oct 14, 2021 21:48
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Harold Fjord posted:I have a leaky sink faucet. It has slowly extruded weird yellow gunk onto the top of the sink mixed with the water and drips down the back. We don't use it much due to this so I'm gonna make it a project. I want to start by putting shutoffs at the ends of the copper pipes so I can turn the water in the house back on while sorting the rest. Is this correct and how do I size this? This label says 3/8 inlet but I think there's some kind of adapter based on the size of the copper pipe and the number of appropriate places to put a wrench. https://www.lowes.com/pd/SharkBite-Brass-1-2-in-Push-to-Connect-x-3-8-in-OD-Compression-Quarter-Turn-Straight-Valve/1000182671 Then get 3/8-1/2" supply lines of appropriate length. Similar to what you have now.
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Oct 16, 2021 01:19
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Eh, you sure about that being compression? To me it looks almost like a union but with the top side using a short nipple that they then threaded the 3/8" supply onto. Regardless, why not cut below the unions and simply clean up the pipe and use a compression angle stop?
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Oct 16, 2021 04:19
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I've got a lot of poo poo to replace in a house I inherited, talking major structural stuff. So I'm trying to save money wherever I can. How possible is replacing these pipes from a shower drain for someone with no plumbing experience? Anyone want to run down a quick tool list and like steps or even just something to Google to get me started? Everything I search for shower drain talks about the drain in the actual shower.   
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Oct 16, 2021 18:08
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Very easy to do that plumbing. Just need to find a video how how to do PVC plumbing connections.
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Oct 16, 2021 20:42
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I've got a question... I just replaced the cartridge and pressure balancing unit in my shower because I was having trouble getting hot water out of it. I ordered the replacement parts from Kohler and it seems to work better. But now that I've done that, I hear a kind of water hammer sound in my basement near the water heater whenever the water stops. I can't say for certain that it didn't happen before I replaced the parts, but now that I've got plumbing on the mind I've heard it. It doesn't happen when running the other shower. What's the best next step?
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Oct 17, 2021 16:41
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Grem posted:I've got a lot of poo poo to replace in a house I inherited, talking major structural stuff. So I'm trying to save money wherever I can. How possible is replacing these pipes from a shower drain for someone with no plumbing experience? Anyone want to run down a quick tool list and like steps or even just something to Google to get me started? Everything I search for shower drain talks about the drain in the actual shower. Why specifically are you looking to replace them - other than the comical amount of ABS cement everywhere? Should be straightforward. Cut pipe below drain, cut pipe downstream of the trap, watch out for the likely disgusting slug of gunk that will come flying out of the trap when you tip it. Unscrew the giant nut on the underside of the shower pan, pull the drain assembly and pipe up through the pan, cut, install, and and cement replacements, making sure that everything is generally sloped downhill to meetup with the rest of your plumbing. Dry fit everything before starting to cement things. In this case, usually the bottom of the P-trap is the easiest connection to make last. I'm sure an actual plumber will come in and provide better instruction or point out why I'm a moron. Tools needed shouldn't be anything more than a saw of some kind to cut the new pipe (chopsaw is best for making easy straight cuts, but a handsaw will do in a pinch), a sawzall or handsaw to cut the old parts out, something to deburr the cut pipe (sandpaper or a good pocketknife does in a pinch if necessary), and something that will allow you to manhandle the nuts on and off the drain. Giant channel-lock pliers if you have them, if not, a good set of gloves. Worst case, if you have a dremel or oscillating multi-tool, you can cut through the old nut to remove it if it is really stuck. Parts you need to buy are a new drain, a P-trap of the appropriate size, a coupler of the appropriate size, a short section of pipe of the appropriate size (all that pipe should be 2" unless you are in some weird jurisdiction), and a thing of black ABS cement. edit: also, don't do what they did and cement ABS to what appears to be a PVC drain using black ABS cement. While transition cement between PVC and ABS exists (it is green, but not always allowed), get an ABS drain as your replacement and do it right. ROJO fucked around with this message at 04:48 on Oct 18, 2021 |
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Oct 18, 2021 04:13
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ROJO posted:Why specifically are you looking to replace them - other than the comical amount of ABS cement everywhere? They leak, right on that black gunk, too, which I assume is the ABS cement you're talking about? This is super helpful, thanks. It's an extra shower in the house so I think I can live with it if I gently caress it up. Kinda lost on a couple of points, but I'm sure with your advice and watching a few youtube videos I'll put it all together. I'll be sure to post here when things go horribly wrong.
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Oct 18, 2021 08:33
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Grem posted:They leak, right on that black gunk, too, which I assume is the ABS cement you're talking about? This is super helpful, thanks. It's an extra shower in the house so I think I can live with it if I gently caress it up. Kinda lost on a couple of points, but I'm sure with your advice and watching a few youtube videos I'll put it all together. I'll be sure to post here when things go horribly wrong. There are different cements. There are 2 different plastics (PVC and ABS). Each cement is designed to bond one kind of plastic to itself. If you use the wrong cement, it won't actually bond, and they'll leak. If you mix the plastics and use the wrong cement, it won't bond to one side or the other, and it'll leak. If you buy ABS parts, buy ABS cement and follow the directions.
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Oct 18, 2021 15:06
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Nitrox posted:the part you have to connect to is in the cabinet under the sink. There is a supply hose coming from a shut-off valve to the faucet, you'll see it has a matching fitting. I got this and also a quarter turn valve so that I could leave it connected always, but I can't get any water to go through the non-sink leg of the tee. I took a closer look at the valve, and there's what looks to be a plug of resin on the inside. It's hard and plasticy. It was in a sealed bag, that's not normal, right?  
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Oct 20, 2021 01:22
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You should be able to see right through it when the valve is in the open position.
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Oct 20, 2021 14:40
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Edit: N/M
Bank fucked around with this message at 19:34 on Oct 22, 2021 |
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Oct 22, 2021 04:29
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I'm trying to get quotes to repipe my ~1000sf 50's house with pex (it's got galvanized now). Here's what we're looking at in terms of fixtures: - Washer - Slop sink in garage - Kitchen faucet - Bathroom Faucet - Toilet - Shower (with new controls and goof plate) - Hot water heater (needs expansion tank) - 2 existing hose bibs - Adding 2 more hose bibs - Adding ice maker hookup for fridge The first quote came back at $7,500, does that sound reasonable? The first place were super nice and easy to get-ahold of. Every other plumber i've tried to call has been impossible to get ahold of so far. I'm thinking of just going with these guys since I trust them, but thought i'd check to see what others had to say.
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Oct 26, 2021 02:34
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frogbs posted:I'm trying to get quotes to repipe my ~1000sf 50's house with pex (it's got galvanized now). Here's what we're looking at in terms of fixtures: Does that include drywall and repairs or is that just the repipe? We just paid 8k for our whole house PEX repipe but that does not cover patching up all the walls and was just replacing polybutylene. It's just one data point but We're in SoCal and had a 2k sf place so you can adjust that to wherever you are. PageMaster fucked around with this message at 02:52 on Oct 26, 2021 |
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Oct 26, 2021 02:50
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PageMaster posted:Does that include drywall and repairs or is that just the repipe? We just paid 8k for our whole house PEX repipe but that does not cover patching up all the walls and was just replacing polybutylene. It's just one data point but We're in SoCal and had a 2k sf place so you can adjust that to wherever you are. That does not include drywall/repairs. They proposed they could do it without cutting any drywall (by putting the toilet stuff directly through the floor on the left/right with some sort of shroud). I assume that's code, but maybe not ideal, right?
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Oct 26, 2021 05:20
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frogbs posted:That does not include drywall/repairs. They proposed they could do it without cutting any drywall (by putting the toilet stuff directly through the floor on the left/right with some sort of shroud). I assume that's code, but maybe not ideal, right? Dont let them drill through your antique floors. My PO did that for a new hot water pipe for the sink and I cant find matching tile to fix it hole in the ground. I say do it right instead of easy or quick.
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Oct 26, 2021 13:36
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frogbs posted:That does not include drywall/repairs. They proposed they could do it without cutting any drywall (by putting the toilet stuff directly through the floor on the left/right with some sort of shroud). I assume that's code, but maybe not ideal, right? If your not afraid of a little work replacing or patching drywall is pretty easy, never done it before a few weeks/month ago. Got some hot mud at the recommend of someone here and just picked up a pack of square repair panels, it worked out good. If I could have fit a full sheet in my car would have been cheaper and have more left over for later uses but 
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Oct 26, 2021 14:50
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Hardware store will cut that sheet of drywall you just bought for you
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Oct 26, 2021 15:27
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Also drywall is about the easiest sheet good to cut in a parking lot, especially if you're just doing rough cuts to get it small enough to fit in your vehicle rather than cutting to final installation size.
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Oct 26, 2021 16:22
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Also, if you're looking for patching drywall materials, look at the rack/area at HD/Lowes that has damaged sheets. You can usually get 50%+ off a sheet if the corners got mushed or something. If you're cutting it down for patches, you can cut out the damaged part and save some $$.
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Oct 26, 2021 16:47
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SpartanIvy posted:Dont let them drill through your antique floors. My PO did that for a new hot water pipe for the sink and I cant find matching tile to fix it hole in the ground. The floor in that room is linoleum thats a few years old, but I think everyone's feedback here is well taken. It's worth doing it the right way and going through the wall. Our house has drywall and plaster, which is weird, but I don't think will make the patch job that much more difficult?
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Oct 26, 2021 17:16
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I swapped a kitchen sink faucet over the weekend, and now I have 2 leaking FlowTite push/pull cutoff valves (one of which I didn’t even touch). Is there any way to fix these stupid things, or am I looking at swapping shutoff valves now?
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Oct 26, 2021 17:30
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smax posted:I swapped a kitchen sink faucet over the weekend, and now I have 2 leaking FlowTite push/pull cutoff valves (one of which I didn’t even touch). Is there any way to fix these stupid things, or am I looking at swapping shutoff valves now? Those things are builder's-grade trash. Replace them with quality metal 1/4 turn shutoffs. If they're on copper, you can probably just pop them off, since they are like Sharkbites.
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Oct 26, 2021 17:55
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B-Nasty posted:Those things are builder's-grade trash. Replace them with quality metal 1/4 turn shutoffs. If they're on copper, you can probably just pop them off, since they are like Sharkbites. PVC, should be threaded on. Of course, one of these is for the dishwasher and the hose that’s integral to the valve runs all the way to the dishwasher, so we’ll need to pull the dishwasher out to swap the valve. We’re looking at changing the dishwasher anyway, but it looks like the two jobs are now linked together. Eff.
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Oct 26, 2021 18:07
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smax posted:the hose that’s integral to the valve runs all the way to the dishwasher What? Something is not right at all there. That's not how you hook up a dishwasher.
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Oct 26, 2021 18:11
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smax posted:Of course, one of these is for the dishwasher and the hose that’s integral to the valve runs all the way to the dishwasher, so we’ll need to pull the dishwasher out to swap the valve. We’re looking at changing the dishwasher anyway, but it looks like the two jobs are now linked together. Eff. With most dishwashers, the hose connection is near the front behind the access panel, and you can usually put a new hose on without pulling the whole dishwasher out. You might be able to use the old hose (cut it where necessary) to act as a fish tape to pull the new line (3/8 connector end) through the hole in the cabinet over to the sink. Some newer washers put it on the back, but it's worth looking (not that pulling a DW is hard.)
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Oct 26, 2021 18:31
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Motronic posted:What? Something is not right at all there. That's not how you hook up a dishwasher. I haven’t done one myself, so you and this \/ poster is probably right. B-Nasty posted:With most dishwashers, the hose connection is near the front behind the access panel, and you can usually put a new hose on without pulling the whole dishwasher out. You might be able to use the old hose (cut it where necessary) to act as a fish tape to pull the new line (3/8 connector end) through the hole in the cabinet over to the sink. Some newer washers put it on the back, but it's worth looking (not that pulling a DW is hard.) I’ll take a look. Having not done a dishwasher myself before, you’re probably right. All I could see is the stupid valve with an integral hose that disappears into the abyss behind the dishwasher, and no signs of easily accessible threaded connections anywhere.
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Oct 26, 2021 19:00
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smax posted:All I could see is the stupid valve with an integral hose that disappears into the abyss behind the dishwasher, and no signs of easily accessible threaded connections anywhere. This is the part I'm talking about that doesn't sound right at all. What valve? Where? I took your post to mean you have a water supply valve under the sink or something that has an integral hose. I've never seen that, and that's not how a standard dishwasher is hooked up. I've never even seen a valve with a hose permanently attached to it. If this is something on the dishwasher side it might just be a weird/old dishwasher.
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Oct 26, 2021 19:47
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Motronic posted:What valve? Where? I took your post to mean you have a water supply valve under the sink or something that has an integral hose. I've never seen that, and that's not how a standard dishwasher is hooked up. I've never even seen a valve with a hose permanently attached to it. I've seen those FlowTite valves that have integrated (non-removable) hoses connected to them, usually with a toilet connector. I've never seen one with a FGH on the end, but it wouldn't surprise me if they made one. Pure junk, in any case.
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Oct 26, 2021 20:23
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