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EVIL Gibson posted:That is the software with the 30 day trial before you have to pay. I'm trying to find something else other than that. It's free for startup/enthusiasts as well. https://knowledge.autodesk.com/supp...Fusion-360.html
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Apr 29, 2017 22:55
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EVIL Gibson posted:That is the software with the 30 day trial before you have to pay. I'm trying to find something else other than that. Fusion 360 is free as long as you're not using it to make more than $100k a year off products you designed using it. It's the hobbyist/startup license. https://knowledge.autodesk.com/supp...Fusion-360.html
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Apr 29, 2017 22:57
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EVIL Gibson posted:That is the software with the 30 day trial before you have to pay. I'm trying to find something else other than that. Fusion 360 is free till you are making a substantial amount of money.
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Apr 29, 2017 22:58
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EVIL Gibson posted:That is the software with the 30 day trial before you have to pay. It's free if you don't make more than $100k per year with it. See this entry on free startup/hobbyist licensing in their knowledge base. edit severly beaten to it, multiple times foosel fucked around with this message at 23:07 on Apr 29, 2017 |
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Apr 29, 2017 23:05
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Full Circle posted:Here's the tutorial I used to get started, it goes over some of the best practices that I wouldn't have thought to use coming from other software. This was pretty informative, thanks.
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Apr 30, 2017 00:01
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Before just suggesting Fusion 360, I'd ask what are you trying to build, for the most part? Fusion 360 is good if you're looking for free software that does mechanical CAD-style modeling. However, like every other CAD program, it sucks for irregular organic shapes*. If you want to make warhammer models or something, something like Sculptris (also free) is much more suitable. *organic form modeling further subdivides into precision surface modeling, like sculpting the body of a car, for which you want a CAID program like Alias or Rhino (not free); and freeform organic poly-modeling, like making an orc head or a brain slug, for which Sculptris is correct. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 00:05 on Apr 30, 2017 |
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Apr 30, 2017 00:01
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csammis posted:Bitching time! I have actually spent some time mucking around with support settings in Cura. I still have some things to figure out, but I'm about 3/4 of the way there to being happy with it. Three biggest things I found to play with is Support distance, support interface, and densities. This was my test part for playing around with supports. https://tinkercad.com/things/jHBV7HUSv3t I'll run through some of the settings I use. Support Overhang Angle = 42 I noticed flaws start at 44, so I backed off a bit. Support Pattern = zigzag gives you bits to grab with pliers. Support density = 20% You can adjust this a bit around any really finicky spots. You want just enough so the support interface is supported right. Support Z distance = layer height I find one layer height gap works well for the part sticking, but being removable. You can only set this to multiples of the layer height anyways. You can get away with x2 layer height on the top distance though for easier removal. Enable Support interface = Yes Support interface thickness = 2-3 times layer height. I find 3 layers is enough time for material to support itself and be in the right spot. Support Interface density = 70-85% Too high, and the support gets harder to remove. Too low, and it leaves a worse surface behind. Support interface pattern = Lines Keeps a smooth finish. It's still not perfect, but should handle what you are trying to print alright. There is a touch of marking from removal, but otherwise the surfaces turned out OK. I find dental picks electronic side cutters to work well for removal.  Had some fun printing out this model at some silly small size. That's a 50% benchy for scale. 
Golluk fucked around with this message at 01:18 on Apr 30, 2017 |
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Apr 30, 2017 01:06
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Sagebrush posted:Before just suggesting Fusion 360, I'd ask what are you trying to build, for the most part? I'm not nearly artistic enough for free hand sculping, most of my stuff will probably be mechanical in function, aside from the anatomical heart with valves that can hold pens my wife has requested (this one will be "fun" for sure).
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Apr 30, 2017 06:19
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AlexDeGruven posted:OpenSCAD. Programmer approach to design. I'll second OpenSCAD. It's FOSS unlike pirated Solidworks, it doesn't mess up your STLs like pirated Solidworks would. And even though pirated Solidworks is a fantastic program for complex mechanical design and simulation, OpenSCAD allows you to specify things that Solidworks can't, particularly if you go hog wild with the list comprehensions. Lots of lets and concats and polyhedra, fewer cylinders and cubes. CSG logic + polyhedra is a potent combo.
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Apr 30, 2017 07:46
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Anyone have a trick for determining inductive sensor Z offset? Tom had a video where he says set Z to zero then issue G92Z10 to trick the printer into thinking Z is at 10mm, then lower the nozzle by 0.1mm increments until it's at the correct height and that will tell you your Z offset. The problem is that the newer Marlins seem to have more safety features and won't allow that because they know you are at Z zero. Anyone have a method that's more recent?
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Apr 30, 2017 07:49
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I'm wanting to move on from using only PLA, so I've begun an attempt to build an enclosure. Well, two attempts. First I tried to use Lack tables. My printer is too large, so I used a Dremel to hack away at the legs at the base, so that I could fit it in. But then I realized that because of the right side of my printer, I can't have it sitting center in the enclosure, it needs to be off to the left a little. So now how I have the legs cut is incorrect. So, I've given up on that.  I went back to Ikea and got two Kallax bookshelves. I've put my other small Lack table on top, so you can get an idea of the size difference. This is going to be stronger, maybe easier to put together, but it is also so much bigger. Larger than I need it. It won't fit on the dresser I got from Goodwill that I am currently using. I'd either need to add legs to the back to help support, or just use something else entirely under this. But even then, it's just so... big. I think it might be too big. Another idea I had was to attach the Lack legs to the sides, instead of on top of the table, so that it would add more space to the sides. But then I'd have open space between the two legs, so I'd need something to close that off. I just measured, and additional legs themselves are about an inch too short for the job. Or, something I just thought of... do I need the legs at all? Would three sides of plexiglass be enough on its own to hold up the top? Or maybe just outsource thinner posts. Or, is there a recommendation for a material that I can upgrade to from PLA, while not needing an enclosure like ABS does?
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Apr 30, 2017 19:46
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You don't need an enclosure for ABS. I only use ABS and don't use one. It changes your design approach, though, on parts.
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Apr 30, 2017 19:55
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Revol posted:Or, is there a recommendation for a material that I can upgrade to from PLA, while not needing an enclosure like ABS does? I started printing with my first roll of PETG today and it's working great without an enclosure. Only took a few tries to get the settings dialed in too. EDIT: I actually meant to ask the thread, is it expected for me to need to reduce my extrusion multiplier when switching from PLA to PETG, even if both rolls were measured at 1.75mm? I had to bring my PETG down to ~95% and may go a bit lower Full Circle fucked around with this message at 20:30 on Apr 30, 2017 |
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Apr 30, 2017 19:57
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Full Circle posted:EDIT: I actually mentioned to ask the thread, is it expected for me to need to reduce my extrusion multiplier when switching from PLA to PETG, even if both rolls were measured at 1.75mm? I had to bring my PETG down to ~95% and may go a bit lower I just switched from ABS back to PLA and had to set my extrusion to 0.9. As far as I know, it could be the diameter of your filament, or it could be that your steps per mm for your extruder motor might be calibrated using different filament.
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Apr 30, 2017 20:23
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mewse posted:Anyone have a trick for determining inductive sensor Z offset? Replying to my own question: fiddle with the z offset using the LCD controller. Don't know how to save it into EPROM without recompiling the firmware tho
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May 1, 2017 05:34
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mewse posted:Replying to my own question: fiddle with the z offset using the LCD controller. Send an M500 to store EEPROM values, if z-offset is one of the values that is stored in the EEPROM. You might also be able to add it to your start g-code.
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May 1, 2017 07:33
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:You don't need an enclosure for ABS. I only use ABS and don't use one. It changes your design approach, though, on parts. It's really dependent on each printers location. Sometimes you can print ABS just fine without any additional enclosure. Sometimes you can't print ABS without it pulling itself apart without one.
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May 1, 2017 08:40
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Not really. It's more about bed material and adhesion method. Hot garage, air conditioned room, by an open window. I ONLY do ABS and IDGAF where it's placed. An enclosure makes everything easier on the printing part if your leveling/tramming is bad, or your extrusion calibration is off. I'm not arguing that. But it definitely is not required.
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May 1, 2017 11:00
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I decided to make a second microscope bracket, the first one fit and I put it through a 48 hour stress test holding 3x the weight of the head itself. It was ugly as sin and had some micro fractures straight off the print bed. I added radii to every joint, increased the outer layers to six from three, infill to 30%, and printed at 45 degree angle to the stress point instead of parallel to it. Basically over engineered the poo poo out of it so it lasts for ever. I also added some aesthetic features being that I'm getting slightly better at autodesk and using the spline command. Print time 36 hours. (It's the white piece) 
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May 1, 2017 14:00
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Double posting as I can only attach one pic at a time rip.
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May 1, 2017 14:03
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Looks good. Now reprint it in PETG with 45% infill so that it truly will last forever and laugh at any moisture that attempts to weaken it.
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May 1, 2017 14:28
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Not really. It's more about bed material and adhesion method. Hot garage, air conditioned room, by an open window. I ONLY do ABS and IDGAF where it's placed. This thread has convinced me to go with PETG, I might buy a roll to experiment with it. I got turned off to ABS when I was reminded that it creates fumes. I'm in an apartment, so that is a major concern. Also, it's pretty close to the AC vent too.
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May 1, 2017 14:57
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PETG is good. My ABS doesn't smell that bad, but some people are more sensitive. Understand that. I'm just invested in ABS. Lots of rolls, low cost, and durability. It just has some drawbacks with design and printability. Once you get a feel for it, like with anything, you're good.
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May 1, 2017 15:14
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Can your print PETG with the stock Wanhao i3 hot end or do you need an all metal for it?
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May 1, 2017 16:45
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Luminaflare posted:Can your print PETG with the stock Wanhao i3 hot end or do you need an all metal for it? Pretty sure you'd need an all metal, I've been printing at 245-260C which will cause trouble for the stock PTFE lining. I will say that the microswiss has been great. I even sent most of a roll of carbon fiber PLA through the included nozzle and had no issues with the bore increasing Full Circle fucked around with this message at 16:50 on May 1, 2017 |
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May 1, 2017 16:47
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Luminaflare posted:Can your print PETG with the stock Wanhao i3 hot end or do you need an all metal for it? I've added an all-metal specifically to get rid of ever needing to replace the liner, but I've read of people printing eSun PETG at 235C somehow and getting decent results.
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May 1, 2017 16:50
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PETG is too sticky for me. It constantly builds up on the nozzle and leaves blobs hanging everywhere, and the only way to fix it seems to be dialing down the extrusion multiplier until your part gets holes in it. Nylon is even stronger and, as long as you dry it, prints far better too.
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May 1, 2017 17:39
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:PETG is good. My ABS doesn't smell that bad, but some people are more sensitive. Understand that. My biggest issue with ABS vs PLA, is it seems to give off far more UFP and VOC than PLA. PLA mostly creates Lactide, while ABS creates 2-20x the amount of styrene. Lactide seems to be considered benign, while styrene is a known carcinogen.
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May 1, 2017 18:38
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Sagebrush posted:PETG is too sticky for me. It constantly builds up on the nozzle and leaves blobs hanging everywhere, and the only way to fix it seems to be dialing down the extrusion multiplier until your part gets holes in it. Yeah, if you're in an environment where Nylons print better than PETG, you're doing something horribly wrong.
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May 1, 2017 20:13
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I've watched a few tutorials on Fusion 360 and holy poo poo the programming that goes into it must be insane. Also I'm getting to the phase where the amount of ideas I have for when my 3D printer arrives is kind of staggering.
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May 1, 2017 20:54
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Yeah, if you're in an environment where Nylons print better than PETG, you're doing something horribly wrong. Nylons are fantastic and the only thing that can really go wrong is if you don't dry it. PETG prints fine, but is sticky and glues all over the nozzle. E3D has recognized this and designed their little silicone nozzle sleeves specifically to avoid that issue. I basically skipped right over PETG and do prototypes in cheap PLA, functional parts in nylon.
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May 1, 2017 21:28
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Isn't Nylon even worse than ABS as far as carcinogens and stuff produced?
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May 1, 2017 22:22
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So I just bought a Select v2 and I have both blue tape and glue stick, can someone link me to a good scraper on Amazon?
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May 1, 2017 22:35
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Obsurveyor posted:Isn't Nylon even worse than ABS as far as carcinogens and stuff produced? No, it's essentially inert.
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May 1, 2017 22:40
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Sagebrush posted:No, it's essentially inert. Oh, cool! Have to put that on my list of things to try. I figured out why I was thinking that: It's just some of the nylon weed trimmer line types that people were trying to use before nylon filament was available, I was conflating the two.
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May 1, 2017 22:54
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Sagebrush posted:Nylons are fantastic and the only thing that can really go wrong is if you don't dry it. PETG prints fine, but is sticky and glues all over the nozzle. E3D has recognized this and designed their little silicone nozzle sleeves specifically to avoid that issue. I also find nylon ( Alloy910 especially) much easier to work with and it's stronger as well. I prototype in PLA and print final objects in either Alloy910 or Semiflex depending on use.
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May 1, 2017 23:08
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bbcisdabomb posted:So I just bought a Select v2 and I have both blue tape and glue stick, can someone link me to a good scraper on Amazon? I've been having great success with this: https://www.amazon.com/ToyBuilder-Labs-Print-Removal-Tool/dp/B00VB1U886/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493680050&sr=8-1&keywords=3d+print+remover I usually lay it flat on the bed touching a corner of the print, then tap the handle once or twice with a mallet. Also, save yourself a lot of hassle and either use the included PEI surface or just use gluestick straight on glass. So much less trouble than tape. Full Circle fucked around with this message at 00:10 on May 2, 2017 |
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May 2, 2017 00:07
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Do Nylon and or PETG work worth a drat on a heated Ultem build surface? Because I am not going back to having to do stupid crap to make stuff stick or come unstuck from the bed, screw that.
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May 2, 2017 00:12
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bbcisdabomb posted:So I just bought a Select v2 and I have both blue tape and glue stick, can someone link me to a good scraper on Amazon? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006WFMGYK/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1493682388&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=scotty+peeler
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May 2, 2017 00:46
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The MSv2 comes with a scraper that works pretty well
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May 2, 2017 00:51
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