|
Doctor Zero posted:you mean it was sill inside the spool while it was on the printer? Yeah, that could very well have been it Nah, it was under the roll in the bottom of the dryer. Its almost on eye-level so I rarely looked into it. I dryed some dessicant packs for my vaccuum bags one day and left it in there. never really noticed, and it must have shifted to contact the rollers when I was cleaning the enclosure last week.
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2022 14:35
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 12, 2024 17:07 |
|
|
Had one of those days after asking about extruder gears. Replaced the gear, following print snagged at some point and started blobbing under the sock around the hotend. Caught it before too long, cleaned everything up. Next attempt, 1/4 of the print came off the plate after 20 or so layers and wrecked everything. Next attempt came back to clicking and a partial print, there was a factory gift of crossover/under on the filament roll that stopped extrusion. I just stepped away after that. I'll try again this afternoon. Sometimes you have to walk away.
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2022 16:25
|
|
|
https://youtu.be/mM7zYIj9uV0
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2022 18:26
|
|
|
It helps that I was dressed as Humungus at the time. Not for any special reason, just Sunday.
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2022 19:12
|
|
|
Droogie posted:It helps that I was dressed as Humungus at the time. Not for any special reason, just Sunday. As one does, of course.
|
|
#
?
Sep 26, 2022 21:34
|
|
|
Received the Ender 3 S1, today. gently caress you, again, to whoever posted the deal. I’ll get around to posting my thoughts on assembled, later…but I am going to say this is a “Christmas morning ready” model of the Ender 3 because unboxing to starting a print was 30 minutes. Super easy assembly. Anyway, here is the first print: that stupid loving cat that hasn’t been re-sliced since 2016 and that lovely crushed up candy cigarette white filament Creality throws in every box.   Not terrible for out of the box and doing the auto-level ritual as I know best. That ringing about a quarter up from the bottom is when I remembered I should check the belt tension. I’ll run an actual Benchy, soon. If I don’t have to gently caress with this printer I am going to be so mad. Marsupial Ape fucked around with this message at 06:07 on Sep 27, 2022 |
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2022 05:57
|
|
|
I'm actually really thinking about 3d printing as a local service, mainly gaming stuff but if possible maybe getting into prosthetics. Which printers should I really look at? I already planned on an fdm and a resin. Tangentially related, any sales I should take advantage of right now?
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2022 07:36
|
|
|
Kid's robotics coach: we need a bunch of these in black Me: I've got a ton of black Coach: awesome, I'll send you the GCode (Everyone has Ender3v2s) SMH. It's not a high resolution part, I could have slapped on a 0.8 and knocked out a bunch of them in the next 2 days. Also, he sliced it with a loving brim.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2022 11:43
|
|
|
Why can't you ask for the model
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2022 11:46
|
|
|
The Demilich posted:I'm actually really thinking about 3d printing as a local service, mainly gaming stuff but if possible maybe getting into prosthetics. Do you have some experience with 3d printing? Your goal is fine but there's a lot of learning to do and much of it is going to be hands on. If you want to provide a service for money you'll want some printers that are reliable and have a lot of information online about fixing them. A Prusa mk3 is a good bet for FDM. If you don't have Prusa money the Ender 3 V2 is alright and as Marsupial Ape just posted, the Ender 3 S1 seems like it's got some advantages over that (it's pretty new so I don't know how it'll be long term but so far it sounds nice). I don't know if there's any sales right now but they're not infrequent. Depending on how long you're willing to wait there will definitely be some kind of black friday sales, but beyond that I don't know of any guarantees. I'm not well versed in resin printing since I don't have one but I'm sure there's a lot of suggestions here or in the 3d printing for tabletop thread.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2022 11:59
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:Why can't you ask for the model I'm going to, but right now it's a time thing and the coaches have specific requirements. I'll reslice my own later and see how it compares (skirt, tree supports, infill changes, etc), but for now, it's just getting the parts knocked out.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2022 13:18
|
|
|
I would not be feeding my printer other people's gcode, especially for free
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2022 13:21
|
|
|
Javid posted:I would not be feeding my printer other people's gcode, especially for free I agree, but this is middle school robotics. With everyone having the same printer, it's pretty safe.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2022 13:25
|
|
|
The Demilich posted:I'm actually really thinking about 3d printing as a local service, mainly gaming stuff but if possible maybe getting into prosthetics. Need input. How good print quality do you want? Looks okay at arm's length? Tabletop quality? There's-no-way-this-is-a-printed-mini quality? How big / much do you want to print? One mini? Whole units? Scatter terrain? Area terrain? How fast do you want them? What's your budget? I don't know about printing prosthetics, but I'm assuming that if you want to make replacement t limbs and such, there's got to be high durability and part tolerance requirements. Why do you want to get into that? AlexDeGruven posted:I agree, but this is middle school robotics. With everyone having the same printer, it's pretty safe. It's not their printer to worry about, it's yours. Who knows if he put a bunch of gcode that fucks up your printer, accidentally or not?
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2022 13:49
|
|
|
My brother-in-law visited last weekend. I told him about my project to print all those poker chips, the one this thread convinced me was dumb. They kept coming unstuck before they were done printing. He suggested that instead of printing 50 at a time, I should print one at a time, and hack in some gcode to cool the bed and push them into a container on the side of the printer with the print head. He said he had done this for large runs of things before and it works great. My mind was completely blown by this concept.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2022 14:22
|
|
|
I've heard of that but some of my prints need that flexplate flex to come off the bed. Particularly large flat objects. I think for tall things (100mm+) that would work fine, but for poker chips your lever arm just isn't long enough to flex the part off the bed. I've definitely had whole bed prints that warp off the bed because the enclosure temp isn't keeping the PLA relaxed above the 4th layer. Even with a 35+C enclosure I've had it happen. ( you get poor cooling results above that, even at 100% fan) I'd be interested to see it work for you since yours keep detaching early, but I think there's a sweet spot of print time vs warping vs adhesion. it might take some tuning.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2022 14:33
|
|
|
Vaporware posted:I'd be interested to see it work for you since yours keep detaching early, but I think there's a sweet spot of print time vs warping vs adhesion. it might take some tuning. I went out and bought a bunch of clay chips so the project is over, but I'll post here right away if I find some other stupid thing to try this technique with. I'll even include a video of it.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2022 14:36
|
|
|
The Demilich posted:I'm actually really thinking about 3d printing as a local service, mainly gaming stuff but if possible maybe getting into prosthetics. When you say prosthetics, do you mean replacement limbs/parts for people? If so I cannot possibly more strongly recommend against doing so. Medical grade regulation and liability is absolutely not something to be taking on at a hobby level. Corporations with entire teams of lawyers gently caress that stuff up. One person in their garage is not the environment for that.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2022 14:52
|
|
|
Doctor Zero posted:It's not their printer to worry about, it's yours. Who knows if he put a bunch of gcode that fucks up your printer, accidentally or not? I get where you're coming from, but there's entirely too much effort being expended here.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2022 15:00
|
|
|
AlexDeGruven posted:I agree, but this is middle school robotics. Have a look at the Elegoo Neptune 3.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2022 15:18
|
|
|
AlexDeGruven posted:I get where you're coming from, but there's entirely too much effort being expended here. Understood, just be careful who you let play with your hot end.  cruft posted:Have a look at the Elegoo Neptune 3. Seconded
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2022 15:21
|
|
|
cruft posted:My mind was completely blown by this concept. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NZgjl8W5yrE A Howto of sorts? or at least "in the same vein"
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2022 15:33
|
|
|
I have a question for my resin printer buddies. I recently thought I had my printer pretty dialed in so I decided to do a high quality project, a bust from Loot Studios. Their pre-supported files looked really good and I heard good things about them so I went ahead and printed it. Printed very nice, a very beautiful model. The only problem is that prior to this I was making really small things using smaller supports that came off really easily. With this bust it had medium supports and they took a little bit more force to remove. Now it looks like my bust is a smallpox survivor in some areas where the supports left little divits and pox marks. Is this indicative of too long an exposure time? Should I dial back the settings? Or is this a support thing and I should support the model myself? The models are so big I don't want to take chances on failed prints. Also, if it matters, I am removing the supports after the alcohol wash but prior to uv curing. Should I remove the supports after curing to avoid the marks? edit to include picture of bust. I actually tried to take the picture to hide the marks, because I was sending the pics to someone, but you can see them around the upper collar of the cloak/shirt. 
IncredibleIgloo fucked around with this message at 18:17 on Sep 27, 2022 |
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2022 18:14
|
|
|
Could be either under or overexposure and honestly it's a pain in the dick sometimes. Really you just need to run off a round of test calibrations above/below where your at and go from there. Any changes in room temps?
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2022 18:32
|
|
|
If i have a large print that has some hardcore supports I'll sometimes give a fresh print a good dunk in some hot water after the IPA bath to make supports more pliable and that seems to leave behind less pock marks. Other than that I have a set of jeweler's files and I move around the model filing off nubbins.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2022 18:38
|
|
|
In plamo world we do a two step cut, a rough cut about the width of your nippers, or further if the plastic crazes easily, then either slice the remaining off with a razor/xacto or file it. for highly visible areas it's a big operation.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2022 18:47
|
|
|
cruft posted:Have a look at the Elegoo Neptune 3. I don't need yet another printer to join my v2, MPMD, and 2 disassembled in a box next to my K40.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2022 19:28
|
|
|
Who are the big sites to buy high detail models from, sounds like there are three or four ones dedicated to comic book characters and warhammer stuff, are there other options
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2022 20:19
|
|
|
AlexDeGruven posted:I don't need yet another printer to join my v2, MPMD, and 2 disassembled in a box next to my K40. I got you confused with another poster asking for recommendations, sorry about that.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2022 21:34
|
|
|
should i cancel my Prusa XL And build a voron 2.4? 🤔🤔🤔 and if so, which kit? looking at the LDO 350mm. I see it doesn't come with a hotend, though. edit: lmao, needs a raspi. welp. Deviant fucked around with this message at 21:51 on Sep 27, 2022 |
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2022 21:46
|
|
|
Deviant posted:should i cancel my Prusa XL And build a voron 2.4? This is a weird conversation I've seen a lot of places. "Printer that isn't on the market versus printer that does exist but isn't a finished solution" and it really feels like comparing peaches and apple pie. Peaches are great. Apple pie is great. You gotta ~make~ apple pie. And it sure isn't a peach. Just to be clear, I'm not saying you shouldn't build a voron. I'm also not saying you shouldn't wait for the PrusaXL. But if "in your head" the prusa XL and Voron are the same.. I think there needs to be some discussion. What are the essential features of the XL for you? Is even a 350 essential for you? In general, more hot ends are better rather than bigger build volume. What makes the two printers "the same" for you? Why would you say.. build a Voron 350 when you could get a Ender 5 plus and get your 350mm build volume and ABL for $500. I'm focusing on size here, because that's really about all they have in common. I have a couple spare Pi's, and there's a whole lot of other single board computers that'll do the job. There's a dude on the voron group on facebook who's testing all of the SBCs. So don't let that stop you. A bunch are even pin for pin replacements for the Pi. LDO sells good kits. But if Pi availability is a roadblock that might be the clue you should be looking elsewhere. So back to the Voron versus XL comparison. I'd like to bring up the Quidi X1 too. All three are high performance printers, but they have wildly different featuresets. The XL has the segmented build platform, and toolchanger, and prusa's backing. The Quidi has the bed scanning, and self calibration, and purge bucket, and an enclosed chamber... and I can't even list the features that make it stand out. But it has a closed ecosystem behind it. The Voron, is "just" the best open source and commodity hardware can do. And, in the end the best ~you~ as a individual person, can do. On the bright side, it's available now.
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2022 22:13
|
|
|
w00tmonger posted:Could be either under or overexposure and honestly it's a pain in the dick sometimes. Room temp is stable at 70ish, which I keep my house. I am switching resins from the Elegoo 8k resin to the Anycubic eco resin. Not because the Elegoo resin is bad, I am just saving it for when I have more complex and detailed prints to do. I am printing off some less detailed stuff so I want to use the AC resin, so this is a perfect time to figure out the validation. Have my first validation matrix printed, working on the second now. On the plus side it seems like the time for exposure for this eco resin is less than the 8k, so might have quicker prints!
|
|
#
?
Sep 27, 2022 23:26
|
|
|
Rexxed posted:
Speaking of which, here is the promised inaugural Benchy. Straight from the box without even updating firmware. My idiot-savant understanding of obscure Cura settings are the only non-factory factor.    So, yeah, out of the box it is producing prints just as well (or slightly better…never been able to read the read lettering) than my highly customized Ender 3 V2. Honestly, I kind of resent it.
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2022 00:04
|
|
|
Rexxed posted:Do you have some experience with 3d printing? Your goal is fine but there's a lot of learning to do and much of it is going to be hands on. If you want to provide a service for money you'll want some printers that are reliable and have a lot of information online about fixing them. Learning is my game and hands on is perfect. My reason for getting into 3d printing is basically my body is ruined from the plague and I'd like to be able to control my work hours so I can effectively keep on living, that and be my own means of production. In conjunction with a 3d printing lab I'd like to integrate it into my meager woodshop. I already planned on making templates for woodworking projects, but I'd also like to use the printers to bolster my own hobbies as well. And if I'm doing it for myself, I can do it for others. Prusa is in the price range I was expecting, but I'm curious if it's print speed and bed size warrants the price vs 2 or 3 ender v2's. Doctor Zero posted:Need input. How good print quality do you want? Looks okay at arm's length? Tabletop quality? There's-no-way-this-is-a-printed-mini quality? How big / much do you want to print? One mini? Whole units? Scatter terrain? Area terrain? How fast do you want them? What's your budget? I'd like to provide tabletop quality at minimum, There's-no-way-this-is-a-printed-mini quality as an option would be superb though. My thought process was I would like to provide terrain of all sizes and scales as well as vehicles via fdm printing, and printing entire sets of miniatures if possible in resin for the extra detailing. Prosthetics is a two fold interest. I'm a volunteer and am very into making sure maimed animals get second chances and I live next to the city animal clinic. I figure I can print prosthesis and go to town. I do have an interest in human prosthetics but I'd rather focus on the animal prosthetics for now. bird food bathtub posted:When you say prosthetics, do you mean replacement limbs/parts for people? If so I cannot possibly more strongly recommend against doing so. Medical grade regulation and liability is absolutely not something to be taking on at a hobby level. Corporations with entire teams of lawyers gently caress that stuff up. One person in their garage is not the environment for that. Animals, I mean for animals. And myself possibly if it ever happens but that's another thing entirely.
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2022 00:11
|
|
|
The Demilich posted:Prusa is in the price range I was expecting, but I'm curious if it's print speed and bed size warrants the price vs 2 or 3 ender v2's. Prusa's price premium gets you a product with superior reliability, minimal required tuning and calibration, and a bunch of nice little quality-of-life features. I personally think speed and build area are highly overrated for the average user. If you're a hobbyist and you can wait five hours for a print, you can probably wait eight hours just as easily. I in fact run some of my prints deliberately slower than I could, because I want the layer lines to be absolutely perfect. Similarly, 8-10 inches square is plenty large for 95% of hobbyist stuff, and for big things like Zelda swords, you're going to have to split the model whether you have an 8 inch bed or 12 inch bed or three printers. Worrying about build area and speed in a <$1000 home printer are a bit like worrying about horsepower and towing capacity in the car you use to commute to work. If you're planning to mass produce parts and sell them, sure, then three printers is better than one...but in that case I would even more strongly recommend three Prusas, because you can just mark up your parts to cover the extra cost, and reliability is even more important when you're dealing with multiple machines. Basically if you can swing the cost, it is absolutely worth getting a Prusa i3 over an Ender. But if you can't, the Ender will be fine, just with more hacking and fussing around required.
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2022 00:24
|
|
|
That makes sense. My budget after I set up the business legally is 5k, which might include building an additional shed just to contain everything.
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2022 00:40
|
|
|
Also, school is back in session and in person, and some of my students have 3D printers at home and are bringing in parts they made themselves instead of using the printers in the lab. Some are decent, but others I'm like oh I remember when 3D printed parts looked like this, lol
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2022 01:02
|
|
|
The Demilich posted:Prusa is in the price range I was expecting, but I'm curious if it's print speed and bed size warrants the price vs 2 or 3 ender v2's. I am going to make a controversial statement for this thread and say that it doesn't, not really. I'm slowing my roll recently, but I've been producing parts (prototyping stuff for a handful of shops in my area, not minis or anything like that) for money for a few years and my farm is just Enders, including a busted-rear end OG Ender 3 that I picked up and rehabilitated. Any of these machines will be reliable with proper care and understanding and, most importantly, any of them are going to be problematic if you don't know what you're doing, especially under 24/7 production conditions. I've got two v2s that literally do not stop running ever unless a print happens to finish when I'm not home, and they're fine with probably several thousand hours under their belts right now. I'm also not saying not to buy a Prusa, but I just wouldn't blow your budget right off the bat. There have been points where I thought about turning this into a primary source of income and while I've always thought, "I can use more printers" I've never once thought "I need better printers." Not with FDM, anyway. Resin is a slightly different story since higher resolution can be a selling point.
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2022 02:45
|
|
|
The Demilich posted:Learning is my game and hands on is perfect. 3 ender 3's will give you the print volume if that's what your looking for,but will be substantially more time to maintain. Prusa is the move if your priorities are are more in line with printing consistently with robust support and more quality parts. An ender 3 is a great starter printing because they're cheap and you can figure out if you actually enjoy using a 3d printer first w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 03:13 on Sep 28, 2022 |
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2022 03:04
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 12, 2024 17:07 |
|
|
Sagebrush posted:Prusa's price premium gets you a product with superior reliability, minimal required tuning and calibration, and a bunch of nice little quality-of-life features. Welcome back Sagebrush
|
|
#
?
Sep 28, 2022 04:20
|
|
