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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Is it going to be inspected at all? Because no inspector will accept a vent through a wall. But lets say its going to be in the back woods some where with out an inspection. 6" from the flood level, forgot about that. Shouldn't be any suds; no washing machine or dishwasher. Also right about stuff in the pipe probably starting to stink, I'll throw a p-trap on there I'm building this slab on grade. I figure the common way to route plumbing for a shower would be through the concrete. Thought maybe I'd raise the shower up to avoid this though. Crazy?
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Oct 6, 2010 07:14
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dwoloz posted:As always, thanks for your reply With the P trap and making grade I imagine the pipes will end up below the concrete.
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Oct 6, 2010 16:08
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So if I convert fromm PEX to CPVC in the basement, what is the best option to connect PEX to CPVC? Looking at the ProPEX system, they dont have have CPVC to PEX fittings. I found some using the cinch/crimp system, but I dont feel like getting that whole set of tools for like 4 connections.
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Oct 6, 2010 16:25
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You're best option would be shark bites. Its about the only quick way to hook up to CPV with out putting on a threaded adapter to CPVC. http://www.homedepot.com/SharkBite-...catalogId=10053
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Oct 6, 2010 16:38
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:You're best option would be shark bites. Its about the only quick way to hook up to CPV with out putting on a threaded adapter to CPVC. I have used those before (hot water heater joints). Are those Kosher when drywalled in? I just found these things too: http://cgi.ebay.com/SIOUX-CHIEF-1-2-CPVC-x-1-2-PROPEX-ADAPTER-WIRSBO-/120629831360 I have similar joints where the copper meets the CPVC at the house inlet. Its a CPVC section with copper smooshed around it that you can glue into. Now SharkBites would be nice since no glue would be needed (Weeeee) but are they as reliable?
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Oct 6, 2010 16:44
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dietcokefiend posted:I have used those before (hot water heater joints). Are those Kosher when drywalled in? I just found these things too: I have never used those before. But the only problem with shark bites is the rubber in them. And over time it will fail. The way I look at it is, the cpvc will failure before the rubber gaskets in a shark bite.
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Oct 6, 2010 16:54
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:I have never used those before. But the only problem with shark bites is the rubber in them. And over time it will fail. The way I look at it is, the cpvc will failure before the rubber gaskets in a shark bite. Yea I understand that. At least if the joint fails I can cut a small hole, swap fitting, etc. code:Do you think spending 500 on all this stuff is worth the piece of mind, even if I might not be in the home when the poo poo fails?
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Oct 6, 2010 16:58
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dietcokefiend posted:Yea I understand that. At least if the joint fails I can cut a small hole, swap fitting, etc. Only time I have seem this pipe fail is due improper installation. The one thing I don't like about it is, in colder weather (below freezing) it can take a while for the pipe and ring to shrink back down. Sometimes you have to use a heat gun. Though once it shrinks back down you arent separating the pipe and fitting. Also make sure the fittings don't have any scars on them. Or it will cause it to fail also. Turd Herder fucked around with this message at 17:36 on Oct 6, 2010 |
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Oct 6, 2010 17:28
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Only time I have seem this pipe fail is due improper installation. The one thing I don't like about it is, in colder weather (below freezing) it can take a while for the pipe and ring to shrink back down. Sometimes you have to use a heat gun. Well its all indoors. and I guess pricing wouldnt be that bad since the ProPEX toolkit sells used for like 200+ on ebay, so could recoup a lot of the money back.
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Oct 6, 2010 17:32
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dietcokefiend posted:Well its all indoors. and I guess pricing wouldnt be that bad since the ProPEX toolkit sells used for like 200+ on ebay, so could recoup a lot of the money back.  Here is the exact same kit my work uses. Once in awhile you have to put lube on the expander itself. But it takes a minute or two and isn't to messy.
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Oct 6, 2010 17:39
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:
http://www.pexsupply.com/Wirsbo-Uponor-Q6295075-ProPEX-Hand-Expander-Tool-with-1-23-41-heads-2412000-p $289 for the kit... any ideas if that is normal price of if it might be lower through some other suppliers?
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Oct 6, 2010 17:45
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dietcokefiend posted:http://www.pexsupply.com/Wirsbo-Uponor-Q6295075-ProPEX-Hand-Expander-Tool-with-1-23-41-heads-2412000-p
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Oct 6, 2010 17:52
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Years ago when I checked on there price I thought they were around $500, but that could have been MSRP. Last question of the day, I promise  When installing PEX in a home, do you use the plastic or brass Uponor fittings? Plastic are much cheaper.
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Oct 6, 2010 17:55
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dietcokefiend posted:Last question of the day, I promise This is only what my boss has told me. I haven't researched it myself. But we use plastic fittings because they are warrantied the same. And they can wish stand to being thrown around prior to installation a little more. On a side note. Some newer rings have a ridge on them. This keeps it from sliding down the pipe when you are expanding the pipe and ring. If they don't have this 1/16th inch ridge. Then you just leave the ring hanging off the pipe 1/8th of an inch while you expand it. If there is water on the pipe it can cause the ring to slip also.
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Oct 6, 2010 18:01
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Ok I lied, one last question. Using the expansion style PEX fittings, would 3/4 PEX match 3/4 CPVC in terms of flow volume?
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Oct 6, 2010 18:09
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dietcokefiend posted:Ok I lied, one last question. Yes they are almost exact same size, thats why a 3/4 shark bite works for both.
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Oct 6, 2010 18:10
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Just did a measurement and rundown of all the joints (skipped over the unions and angles, dont need those) and got my final pricesheet. Only ~190 bucks in actual materials.quote:ProPEX Hand Expander Tool with 1/2",3/4",1" heads
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Oct 6, 2010 20:31
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Why color code it. I'd just run all of one color. Just make sure you don't cross a line.
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Oct 6, 2010 20:43
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Why color code it. I'd just run all of one color. Just make sure you don't cross a line. Well I need to buy over 100 feet of 3/4" pipe, so I figured get one of blue and red and just have some leftover. Otherwise it would be two 100 feet spools of white. Notice for 1/2" I am just sticking with white since that will handle my needs.
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Oct 6, 2010 20:47
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dietcokefiend posted:Well I need to buy over 100 feet of 3/4" pipe, so I figured get one of blue and red and just have some leftover. Otherwise it would be two 100 feet spools of white. Notice for 1/2" I am just sticking with white since that will handle my needs. Ya but if you mix colors like red and blue it can look odd, unless you are going all patriotic.
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Oct 6, 2010 20:52
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Ya but if you mix colors like red and blue it can look odd, unless you are going all patriotic. It will all be hidden once the drywall goes up. It will only be useful if I tear into the walls for repairs.
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Oct 6, 2010 21:01
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dietcokefiend posted:It will all be hidden once the drywall goes up. It will only be useful if I tear into the walls for repairs. I honestly can't buy that as an excuse. I guess I have been in the trade to long. But someone some day will see it and think "what the gently caress is this, this wasn't done by a real plumber" Other sayings that shouldn't be acceptable is "good enough for the girls I go for".
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Oct 6, 2010 21:37
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:I honestly can't buy that as an excuse. I guess I have been in the trade to long. But someone some day will see it and think "what the gently caress is this, this wasn't done by a real plumber" Fine fine  white it is
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Oct 6, 2010 21:48
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dietcokefiend posted:Fine fine
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Oct 6, 2010 21:54
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:I mean if you plan on keeping blue and red separate and just use white half inch that wouldn't look as bad. But if you mixed red and blue it would make the color coding useless. Well that's what I was planning on doing. I need 60-70 feet of 3/4" hot and 60-70 feet of 3/4" cold. Anything that branched to 1/2" was going to be white as it neared the fixtures.
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Oct 6, 2010 22:19
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dietcokefiend posted:Well that's what I was planning on doing. I need 60-70 feet of 3/4" hot and 60-70 feet of 3/4" cold. Anything that branched to 1/2" was going to be white as it neared the fixtures. Sorry I miss read that, I was replying to you while studying for my plumbing test tomorrow.
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Oct 6, 2010 22:33
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Sorry I miss read that, I was replying to you while studying for my plumbing test tomorrow.  There aren't even pipe supports, you can pull the pipe out of the floor on each side like 4-5 inches. Question #37 If you are a plumber and create this retarded mess do you: 1. Commit Seppuku 2. Shoot self in face 3. Drive truck into river 4. All of the above
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Oct 6, 2010 22:39
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Interesting, verified all of my joints again and noticed the freeze-proof exterior faucet has a 3/4" copper pipe mated with an adapter to 1/2" CPVC. Would I get any meaningful increase in water volume/pressure by extending a full line of 3/4 PEX to that section? Might be handy for daisy chaining sprinklers or something.
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Oct 6, 2010 22:51
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dietcokefiend posted:Interesting, verified all of my joints again and noticed the freeze-proof exterior faucet has a 3/4" copper pipe mated with an adapter to 1/2" CPVC. Would I get any meaningful increase in water volume/pressure by extending a full line of 3/4 PEX to that section? Might be handy for daisy chaining sprinklers or something. I have never actually tested 3/4 run to a hose bib compared to 1/2 hose bib. It won't hurt for time or save much money to run a 3/4 line your hose bib so why not. I have heard both sides of the argument and I'd rather undersize then oversize. So I always run 3/4 to every hose bib when plumbing a new house.
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Oct 7, 2010 00:44
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:I have never actually tested 3/4 run to a hose bib compared to 1/2 hose bib. It won't hurt for time or save much money to run a 3/4 line your hose bib so why not. I have heard both sides of the argument and I'd rather undersize then oversize. So I always run 3/4 to every hose bib when plumbing a new house. I guess one simple test would be string as many sprinklers in a row as I have, and test spray distance between now and after. In other news inspected my first floor bathroom and noticed some awesome plumbing work. I guess in the process of installing the sink fixture something wasnt cut correctly, cause instead of the CPVC sticking straight out, its wedged down at like a 15 degree angle. I am afraid to think about how much of a bow the pipe has inside the wall  . Fuckers "made it fit" and just rammed the cabinet in on top of the pipes bending them down.Sign from God that I should replace my cheap as poo poo sink/cabinet with something attractive and open the wall to install PEX same time as I do the basement? 
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Oct 7, 2010 05:03
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dietcokefiend posted:I guess one simple test would be string as many sprinklers in a row as I have, and test spray distance between now and after. 15° isnt horrible you may be able to pull it up. What could have happened was all the weight of the supply eventually pushed the pipe down. But its not uncommon for a cabinet guy to gently caress with our pipes. It's up to you how far you want to chase cpvc pipe though.
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Oct 7, 2010 14:15
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:15° isnt horrible you may be able to pull it up. What could have happened was all the weight of the supply eventually pushed the pipe down. But its not uncommon for a cabinet guy to gently caress with our pipes. The both the supplies sit at the same level in the joist cavity below. Getting a hole cutter above the pipe and making a spot for it to slide up would probably work, but christ... what the gently caress. At this point I think I am going to chase it up into the wall cavities so PEX flow throughout all the basement ceilings and I never have to open it up later on. dietcokefiend fucked around with this message at 15:41 on Oct 7, 2010 |
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Oct 7, 2010 15:38
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If I replumb my basement because original builders did a terrible job, or i consider CPVC defective by nature... do I need a permit? This is on the county health inspectors page: "No plumbing shall be done in any non-residential or residential building, except in cases of leaks or repairs in existing plumbing," Not going to add new fixtures, just swap out old for new and keep the same layout.
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Oct 8, 2010 03:35
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I installed a compression fitting on a T under my sink, for my dishwasher. The T was already installed and it had a spigot soldered on. I desoldered the spigot and shoved the compression fitting on. I then tightened it about 3-4 turns until it was too difficult to turn with the two wrenches. I used teflon tape on the threads of the compression nut. The fitting itself is sticking off at a 5 degree angle or so, but under pressure it hasn't leaked (yet). Do I need to worry about this, or will it hold until I can homerun everything with PEX?
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Oct 8, 2010 05:50
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dietcokefiend posted:If I replumb my basement because original builders did a terrible job, or i consider CPVC defective by nature... do I need a permit? Technically you should pull a home owners permit but its just going to cost a fee and get one inspection. insta posted:I installed a compression fitting on a T under my sink, for my dishwasher. The T was already installed and it had a spigot soldered on. I desoldered the spigot and shoved the compression fitting on. I then tightened it about 3-4 turns until it was too difficult to turn with the two wrenches. I used teflon tape on the threads of the compression nut. The fitting itself is sticking off at a 5 degree angle or so, but under pressure it hasn't leaked (yet). Do I need to worry about this, or will it hold until I can homerun everything with PEX? Haha wow that's an interesting contraption you have there. You don't need to put teflon while using a compression fitting (nut and ferrel I assume). The ferrel actually is what seals it, the threads just keep the nut holding the ferrel in place. You should be fine if its not leaking but can you take a picture of this?
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Oct 8, 2010 07:46
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Technically you should pull a home owners permit but its just going to cost a fee and get one inspection. Called and verified it this morning, yup I need the minimum 45 dollar permit with one inspection. Normally I might just say "gently caress this" but if a pipe bursts while I am out of town or something crazy happens I still want my sweet sweet homeowners to cover it.
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Oct 8, 2010 14:59
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It will anyway without the inspection. I asked state farm about it before finishing my first basement and they didn't require a permit or inspection.
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Oct 8, 2010 18:20
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jackyl posted:It will anyway without the inspection. I asked state farm about it before finishing my first basement and they didn't require a permit or inspection. I've heard about a gas job a friend wanted to do on his own. And if he blew his house up it wouldnt be covered. But its all word of mouth that I was told it wouldnt be covered. Though he was going to hook do the gas in the stupidest way possible.
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Oct 8, 2010 19:02
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:I've heard about a gas job a friend wanted to do on his own. And if he blew his house up it wouldnt be covered. But its all word of mouth that I was told it wouldnt be covered. Yeah, mine's word of mouth too since I'm self reporting my conversation, so dietcokefiend should contact his agency or just pay the $45, whatever he wants. I just wanted to make sure people knew that permits aren't necessarily required for insurance coverage. Back on the thread topic, you gave me advice a while back about Moen body sprays, and I never followed up to say thanks. It works very well, although 4 sprays plus a shower head reduces pressure quite a bit. I'm thinking about getting one of those low pressure heads or something to ensure a good stream from the top valve with the sprayers on. Any recommendations as to good heads or what to look for in one? Thanks!
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Oct 8, 2010 19:08
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jackyl posted:Yeah, mine's word of mouth too since I'm self reporting my conversation, so dietcokefiend should contact his agency or just pay the $45, whatever he wants. I just wanted to make sure people knew that permits aren't necessarily required for insurance coverage. Ya I agree on insurance. I mean in a home owner standpoint a inspection may be nice since sometimes the inspectors know what they are talking about. Or atleast may catch something you missed. Though sometimes they just like to gently caress with people. Did you run 3/4 pipe to the shower valve assembly? That would help with volume and give you better pressure. I don't know to much about low flow heads. I don't really pick out the trim much. By the time I get to a job I have trim that a home owner picked out and I install it.
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Oct 8, 2010 19:19
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