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mewse posted:everything was going great until my heat block fell off
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May 5, 2017 16:08
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I was thinking "Rostock, MakerBot, Comstock. 3D printing and YOU" or along those lines. A joke about Kickstarter, maybe.
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May 5, 2017 16:17
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Is the monoprice Maker select v2 still a good entry level printer for someone who doesn't mind tinkering with electronics? Are there any upgrades that seem pretty mandatory to do right away?
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May 5, 2017 19:07
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Rexxed posted:Is the monoprice Maker select v2 still a good entry level printer for someone who doesn't mind tinkering with electronics? Are there any upgrades that seem pretty mandatory to do right away? The only "upgrade" I consider mandatory is the MOSFET between the heated bed, control board and PSU (check my post history in this thread and you'll see some posts about it somewhere in the last three pages). Makes it heat up much faster and run rock solid. Also takes the strain off the control board and eliminates the issue some of the printers have if the board is bad and can't really handle running the bed at full power (but is otherwise fine).
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May 5, 2017 19:20
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mewse posted:Everything was going great until my heat block fell off "And then the murders began."
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May 5, 2017 19:38
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Rexxed posted:Is the monoprice Maker select v2 still a good entry level printer for someone who doesn't mind tinkering with electronics? Are there any upgrades that seem pretty mandatory to do right away? Aside from the mosfet as mentioned, replacing the Y carriage does wonderful things for how often you have to re-level. Z-brace is also really nice. Modifying these things is definitely addictive though. I've had mine a week (bought it pre-modded off a friend who has been nerding out on these things for a while) and I'm already looking in to converting to RAMPS. I think I'm going to try reflashing the stock board first just for kicks, but my understanding is that it's got fairly limited flash so it's tricky if you want to enable a lot of features in the firmware. I think right now any of the variants of the Wanhao i3 (Monoprice, Powerspec, Aldi, direct) are some of the best starting choices for someone who intends to tinker. They're decently priced, widely available, and have a big community.
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May 5, 2017 20:01
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This one is probably actually the best initial printer to play with and not gently caress with beyond the Wifi configuration. https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=21711
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May 5, 2017 20:13
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Acid Reflux posted:This should be the new thread title. Dare I ask how that even happened? I was thinking about it today and I think I caused it by pushing the hot end temperature too high. It has never been higher than 235 for printing ABS and this PETG specified 240-260, so I set it to 250 and then got worried and dropped it to 245 which is still 10C higher than it has ever gone.. and it started leaking and then the heatblock popped off somehow (how the hell did it pop off the threads? I don't even know) foosel posted:"And then the murders began." 
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May 5, 2017 21:34
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Rexxed posted:Is the monoprice Maker select v2 still a good entry level printer for someone who doesn't mind tinkering with electronics? Are there any upgrades that seem pretty mandatory to do right away? If you're like me and want step-by-step guides for these, this guy has some good tutorials specifically for the Maker Select v2. Mine hasn't come in yet (Fedex has another two hours, come on guys :aargh:) but I've got everything for the MOSFET and extruder gear mods delivered from Amazon already. https://letsprint3d.net/2017/01/29/guide-installing-a-mosfet-board-maker-select-v2/ https://letsprint3d.net/2017/04/03/upgrade-extruder-gear/
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May 5, 2017 22:48
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There is also a good wiki, but it's a little out of date in some places because the newer monoprice printers have a lot of custom additions that are different from the stock i3: http://3dprinterwiki.info/wiki/wanhao-duplicator-i3/
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May 5, 2017 23:13
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I appreciate the info, guys. If I order it now Amazon says I can have it here by Sunday, but I'm going to need to clear some table space so I might wait until I can sort out my work area. How's the sound? Okay for a computer room assuming it's fairly large and has a lot of equipment?
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May 6, 2017 01:30
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Rexxed posted:I appreciate the info, guys. If I order it now Amazon says I can have it here by Sunday, but I'm going to need to clear some table space so I might wait until I can sort out my work area. How's the sound? Okay for a computer room assuming it's fairly large and has a lot of equipment? They can be quite loud when stock, due to the lovely 40mm fans all over. It's quite easy to print replacement parts that allow you to replace the power supply fans with a 120mm PC fan, and the hot/cold end fans with 50mm blowers, which brings the noise down considerably. You may also want to reduce the voltage to the stepper motors, which quiets them down significantly as well. I keep mine within 5 feet of my PC and with open headphones I found the printer distractingly loud before those changes.
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May 6, 2017 01:38
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Rexxed posted:I appreciate the info, guys. If I order it now Amazon says I can have it here by Sunday, but I'm going to need to clear some table space so I might wait until I can sort out my work area. How's the sound? Okay for a computer room assuming it's fairly large and has a lot of equipment? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cjcdk80Wjfs There's what mine sounds like right now, and IMO going in a circle is the noisiest thing it does by a lot. I don't really know how to provide a good reference for the overall volume, the sound of me getting a facebook notification in the background might be of some use there. It's about the same as a scanner on a midrange multifunction printer. I have an 80mm fan on the PSU. The fan cooling the head is stock and the part cooling blower is not running in this clip (mine has a failing bearing so that part sounds like a bucket of bolts). All the drive components are stock.
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May 6, 2017 02:02
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Attempted to repair my extruder. Disassembled it nicely and cleaned the threads on the heat break. The hot end was covered in solidified plastic so I heated it to 250C and tried to unscrew the nozzle. The nozzle broke and left its threads inside the heater block. I have a V6 clone I could install but I think I'll take this as a sign that I should wait until I can build my mk2 clone instead.
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May 6, 2017 18:34
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My heater block came in today, so I'm back to printing. Reminds me of an odd issue I've had for a while now. Nothing major, but depending on what happens, it could end up destroying the print altogether. It's my skirt; when it first starts, it doesn't stick to the surface, and it instead starts to roll under the nozzle. It eventually will print the skirt fine. I'd think the issue is the nozzle is too high off the surface for the initial layer, but the rest of the skirt, and the first layer, appears fine. How bad, and how far, this is, is pretty random. Just tested it twice, the first time ended up being inconsequential, but the second time around went much further, and when it stopped, it stopped in an area that would've been in the way of the actual print job. What else could be a concern about the very beginning of a skirt?
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May 7, 2017 00:17
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Happens with mine too; just stand by with your putty knife and move the blob out of the way.
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May 7, 2017 00:23
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rawrr posted:Happens with mine too; just stand by with your putty knife and move the blob out of the way. Yup, that's how I compensated for the second print that would've had that problem.
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May 7, 2017 00:29
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You can try adding a nozzle wipe to your initial GCode, a small line at the edge of your print area won't get in the way most of the time. I haven't really had this issue since I switched to a glass bed, so maybe also try to improve bed adhesion?
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May 7, 2017 00:42
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Revol posted:My heater block came in today, so I'm back to printing. Reminds me of an odd issue I've had for a while now. Nothing major, but depending on what happens, it could end up destroying the print altogether. It's my skirt; when it first starts, it doesn't stick to the surface, and it instead starts to roll under the nozzle. It eventually will print the skirt fine. I'd think the issue is the nozzle is too high off the surface for the initial layer, but the rest of the skirt, and the first layer, appears fine. What is your levelling status because it sticking in on area and not another consistently sounds like that when it happens to me.
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May 7, 2017 03:00
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EVIL Gibson posted:What is your levelling status because it sticking in on area and not another consistently sounds like that when it happens to me. I'm using a BLTouch, and its leveling works great. This only happens at the very, very first material to come out of the nozzle. If this was a leveling issue, then I'd expect more than just the beginning of the first round of the skirt to be affected. It is like the nozzle is slow to be primed, and I understand the entire idea behind the skirt is to prime the print, but it doesn't seem like it should take as long as it is here.
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May 7, 2017 05:16
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I always had a problem with the beginning of the skirt being a little messy as well, and sometimes the messy bit would become magically sucked into the print sometimes. Moving the skirt further away made it less likely to happen, but smaller objects needed a higher number and larger objects would necessitate a smaller number due to running out of build plate. What I did was remove the skirt from the slicer settings then just write start gcode that extrudes along the side of my buildplate. code:CapnBry fucked around with this message at 14:50 on May 7, 2017 |
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May 7, 2017 14:46
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^^ dammit CapnBry, you beat me to this with the same concept. :pRevol posted:This only happens at the very, very first material to come out of the nozzle. If your printer behaves anything like mine, adding some pre-run gcode that extrudes material before the nozzle even starts to move over the build plate might help to alleviate your problem. Mine reads: G92 E0 ;zero the extruder G1 F200 E10 ;extrude 10mm of filament (change this to whatever works best for you) G92 E0 ;re-zero the extruder Running that before it starts to print the brim/skirt/whatever on mine really makes a difference. Between the usual retraction at the end of a print, and the plastic just oozing out of the hot nozzle while the machine is heating up, the melt zone of the hot end can end up pretty empty. It needs to not only fill back up with material, but it also needs to be primed and purged to get the air out of it. This might not be the solution for you, but certainly won't hurt anything to try it. 
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May 7, 2017 14:56
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Revol posted:I'm using a BLTouch, and its leveling works great. Yah, it should be okay but you described as the filament rolling which means it has room underneath to roll. With that response , as long as your prints are fine and your skirt actually does what it is built to do and make sure the flow is good by the time it's done, I think the issue shouldn't be worried about. This is also from experience where I have seen the strangest starts on skirt which I am super glad does not make it to the first layer of the print.
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May 7, 2017 20:42
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If nobody comes along and outbids me before the auction ends, I might have this old Stratasys FDM 1650 to play with at some point this year. It's no longer supported, so I'm hunting about for any way to hack the thing so as to dump the old OS and have it driven by Marlin if possible (to allow use of 3rd party filaments, etc.) but I'm not having much luck. Anybody with better Google-fu than me know of a good place to look?
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May 8, 2017 14:42
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Acid Reflux posted:^^ dammit CapnBry, you beat me to this with the same concept. :p I used to just do a little extrude just like your GCode but there seemed to be a little variability in how much was needed depending on how much oozed out at the end of the last print or if the last print was canceled or if the extruder sat hot & idle for a little while. If it extruded too much it might stick to the nozzle and drag it to the print. It is definitely a good start though and is much more reliable for me than the skirt, without using any additional bed space. Although the skirt is also good for testing bed leveling-- drop down a 25mm cube with a 5 line skirt 75mm distance and you should end up with a skirt that is solid all the way around.Has anyone tried the new pressure algorithm in Marlin? I've long been a proponent of some sort of pressure modelling either in the GCode or firmware. Let's face it, if you jam 1.75mm filament against a 0.4mm nozzle and print 4 mm3/s, there's a lot less time before the pressure equalizes and you start to get requested extrusion than if you're trying to push 12 mm3/s. Same thing on the other side, if you were pushing at 12mm3/s and retract a fixed amount (say 1.0mm) that is only going to relieve so much pressure and you're trying to set your retract amount to match the nozzle pressure, but nozzle pressure changes depending on what sort of feature you're printing and at what speed. What you end up with is under-extrusion at the start of each stroke, and over-extrusion at the end of each stroke. Slic3r has "Pressure Advance" which works to some degree, but I've had problems with it generating massive advances or retracts when dealing with some small fills that can really jam an extruder. Old Marlin had JKN pressure modeling which limited acceleration of the extruder based on the X/Y feedrate change, which isn't great because a 0.5mm perimeter at F3000 and a 0.8mm infill at F3000 would need different accellerations. The new Marlin firmware models the filament pressure as a spring in a method they call Linear Advance. This method now is applied against the change in extrusion speed (they say in mm3/sec but I think it is actually extruder steps) which should be more accurate across a wider range of extrusion volumes. I'd love to try this out but my Marlin printer prints ridiculously well for its applications and I don't want to mess with that. My bigger printer runs a Smoothieboard so I am locked in to the Smoothie firmware.
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May 8, 2017 14:59
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biracial bear for uncut posted:If nobody comes along and outbids me before the auction ends, I might have this old Stratasys FDM 1650 to play with at some point this year. This hackspace in London had one and ended up junking it, reading their trials and tribulations might be valuable: https://wiki.london.hackspace.org.uk/view/Equipment/Stratasys_FDM_1650/Legacy#Logs
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May 8, 2017 15:02
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biracial bear for uncut posted:If nobody comes along and outbids me before the auction ends, I might have this old Stratasys FDM 1650 to play with at some point this year. This guy has torn one down and located manuals for the control board they used. http://haveblue.org/?p=514 Apparently as is they take some automotive industry language rather than G-code so I think you're right with the idea of just converting it to a standard hobbyist board. At that point from the limited information available it seems to be pretty standard steppers and heating elements.
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May 8, 2017 15:48
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wolrah posted:This guy has torn one down and located manuals for the control board they used. The main draw on it for me is that it's an industrial frame with a built-in heated chamber system that I'll need to figure out how to control after converting things over to hobbyist steppers/hardware if the "accessories" that come with it in that auction aren't physical copies of the software/manuals/etc. mewse posted:This hackspace in London had one and ended up junking it, reading their trials and tribulations might be valuable: I found that before posting about it here. I figure it'll mostly be a project like those ebay listings you'll find where someone took an old Dimension and converted it to hobby controllers with Marlin and turned around to sell it for a few grand (except I'll keep it after converting it). EDIT: There are a handful of useful manuals hidden in various posts by that guy for identifying/servicing the boards that are in it. Shame that the slicer/controller software appears to be absolute vapor at this point. If I win that auction, maybe I'll get lucky and the software/manuals will be included. Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 16:56 on May 8, 2017 |
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May 8, 2017 16:02
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CapnBry posted:
I think I'll give your method a try, I've been noticing that the simple extrusion doesn't seem to work as well with higher temperatures. It's usually a bit of a wash since I always run a couple of skirt lines too, but sometimes I still have to reach in there with something and un-gloop the nozzle before it starts the actual first layer. I think some of it has to do with my cheap Chinese hot end though...no matter what I use for a nozzle, the material frequently seems to want to curl back in a particular direction rather than just drop out straight, which leads me to believe that the PTFE liner might not be quite concentric to the barrel. It's not a show stopper by any means but it is a bit annoying. Still trying to decide if dropping the cash on something like an E3D V6 might be worth it.
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May 8, 2017 17:21
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CapnBry posted:I always had a problem with the beginning of the skirt being a little messy as well, and sometimes the messy bit would become magically sucked into the print sometimes. Moving the skirt further away made it less likely to happen, but smaller objects needed a higher number and larger objects would necessitate a smaller number due to running out of build plate. My first printer, a makerbot clone, did this, it was called wipe in the settings. Funny I was just looking at your rPi smoker controller. Small world. Has anyone tried The new Marlin firmware yet btw? I'm running RC8 but if they've implemented mesh bed levelling using probing rather than manual adjustment I might give it a bash.
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May 8, 2017 20:00
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Rapulum_Dei posted:Has anyone tried The new Marlin firmware yet btw? I'm running RC8 but if they've implemented mesh bed levelling using probing rather than manual adjustment I might give it a bash. I upgraded from RC8 to 1.1.0 on the weekend, seems about the same. I was using automatic bed leveling on RC8 tho so I'm confused what feature you are interested in. I just enabled AUTOMATIC_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR or whatever the define is e: this is my Configuration.h, I forked marlin on github mewse fucked around with this message at 20:08 on May 8, 2017 |
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May 8, 2017 20:05
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Can you mesh level using the probe and then save it to the eeprom or do you have to do it before every print (or every time you turn on anyway) The mesh levelling you can do once and save requires manual Z tuning and the 'paper' technique in RC8.
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May 8, 2017 20:10
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Rapulum_Dei posted:Has anyone tried The new Marlin firmware yet btw? I'm running RC8 but if they've implemented mesh bed levelling using probing rather than manual adjustment I might give it a bash. Haven't tried it myself, but had a couple of OctoPrint users run into a critical error they managed to introduce just in time for their stable release which apparently causes the whole controller to crash when you try to query (and/or set?) the temperature via serial thanks to some recently introduced and untested code in the temperature handling. And their bug tracker in general doesn't induce much confidence with regards to stability of that release sadly. YMMV.
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May 8, 2017 20:12
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Rapulum_Dei posted:Can you mesh level using the probe and then save it to the eeprom or do you have to do it before every print (or every time you turn on anyway) I don't think my MKS board has eeprom so I just added G29 to my start gcode. It does the probing while the nozzle heats so it doesn't seem to add any time.
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May 8, 2017 20:18
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Rapulum_Dei posted:Can you mesh level using the probe and then save it to the eeprom or do you have to do it before every print (or every time you turn on anyway) Mesh Bed Leveling has always been a "run once, then M500, then done unless the bed warps" thing.
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May 8, 2017 20:54
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mewse posted:I upgraded from RC8 to 1.1.0 on the weekend, seems about the same. I was using automatic bed leveling on RC8 tho so I'm confused what feature you are interested in. I just enabled AUTOMATIC_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR or whatever the define is The new feature to fade out of mesh levelling is not set by default. if I'm getting this right the advantage would be that after # of layers , the printer doesnt have to constantly lift and raise Z which would save on wear on the thread. You need to set it with a M420 Z<height> first and decide when you want the printer to assume the printing is good enough level over time.
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May 8, 2017 20:55
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M420? Nice.
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May 8, 2017 21:14
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mewse posted:M420? Nice. Yep. http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M420:_Leveling_On.2FOff.2FFade_.28Marlin.29
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May 8, 2017 21:19
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mewse posted:M420? Nice. I know lol. That's what it says in the new config though
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May 8, 2017 22:04
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Mesh Bed Leveling has always been a "run once, then M500, then done unless the bed warps" thing. Quote a post repeating the same information but not answering the question it asks.  The z fade setting is not without issue from the results I've seen.
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May 8, 2017 22:46
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