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Seat Safety Switch posted:Additionally, we have to pay duty for a non-NAFTA car as well as sales tax on the car. Idiotically, Subaru Canada actually double-imports their cars (first to SIA to be finalized, then to Canada to be sold) so they pay NAFTA duty twice on every car you buy from a dealership.
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# ? Aug 6, 2011 00:09 |
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# ? May 26, 2024 14:56 |
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It is seriously hard to believe Subaru can in any way justify the prices Canada and Australia pays for it's cars, especially now.
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# ? Aug 6, 2011 00:44 |
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Cat Terrist posted:It is seriously hard to believe Subaru can in any way justify the prices Canada and Australia pays for it's cars, especially now.
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# ? Aug 6, 2011 00:45 |
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The suspension is shot on my RS. I need struts, and my rear springs are sagging. Probably going to do the mounts while I have them out. This car has been beat on. Hard. I need something that wont lower me, and will be good for Rallycross, TSDs, possibly some hillclimbs and maybe an autocross. I'll also be commuting in it in snow storms once I get a nice rwd car. I'm at a loss as to what to get...
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# ? Aug 6, 2011 13:37 |
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Going to get my car dyno'd today! Don't get excited, this is just for logbook and curiosity purposes. I also want a baseline so that I can tell if later modifications make a difference. The motor is totally stock with a new shortblock that has about 3000 miles on it. Guesses on what it will put down? A Mustang Dynamometer which reads low in general. Impreza 2.5RS '99 ("165" hp - hah!) [list] [*]Under 90whp [*]Under 100whp [*]Under 110whp [*]Over 110whp [list] I'm guessing under 90whp.
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# ? Aug 6, 2011 13:44 |
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What elevation are you at? Makes all the difference. Our local Dyno Dynamics is directly responsible for an NA Audi S4 getting sold by the distraught owner after realizing it put down less power than a bagged-on bugeye at 1.04km above sea level. My guess is that based on my own drivetrain loss of about 30% you're going to see about 115 at the wheels. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 15:01 on Aug 6, 2011 |
# ? Aug 6, 2011 14:55 |
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Simkin posted:Given how uncommon Brats are, it would make sense to check for parts interchangeability with a similar year GL/DL. Subaru doesn't (didn't?) like to use model specific parts. Thanks for the tip!
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# ? Aug 6, 2011 18:39 |
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Pretty much sea level here in NJ. So, my car number is 109 and we had joked that it would be funny if that was my whp. Seat Safety Switch - you're pretty close! It was 110whp. I might have to change my car number now. Most boring dyno plot I've seen so far. 110hp/127tq. Fairly linear and flat. c355n4 fucked around with this message at 19:58 on Aug 6, 2011 |
# ? Aug 6, 2011 18:44 |
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c355n4 posted:Pretty much sea level here in NJ. Judging by "Mustang dyno that reads low in NJ"... I'm guessing Akuma?
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# ? Aug 6, 2011 19:06 |
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nutnmunch posted:Judging by "Mustang dyno that reads low in NJ"... I'm guessing Akuma? Yup :p
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# ? Aug 6, 2011 19:08 |
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nutnmunch posted:Judging by "Mustang dyno that reads low in NJ"... I'm guessing Akuma? There is that big bit that says, "Akuma MotorSports LLC" on the dyno too. EDIT:\/\/\/ Crafty devil. I should dyno my automatic bugeye if I ever get it together. Sockington fucked around with this message at 00:01 on Aug 7, 2011 |
# ? Aug 6, 2011 21:26 |
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Sockington posted:There is that big bit that says, "Akuma MotorSports LLC" on the dyno too. I added the dyno plot later :p
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# ? Aug 6, 2011 21:26 |
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What did you pay? I'd like to run my WRX to see where I stand... probably 150whp over ya
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# ? Aug 6, 2011 23:57 |
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Installed the eBay short shifter and went on a very short drive. Install took about 10 minutes or less reusing the OEM bushing and hardware. The shifts are a little shorter, shifter height is about the same. I'll update if anything goes wrong.
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# ? Aug 7, 2011 00:40 |
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I just picked up a 2002 Forester with the 5sp and it had the "sticky clutch pedal" for which as I understand it there's a TSB. So I replaced the entire clutch hydraulics and now instead of the pedal getting stuck all the way down then sometimes "popping" back up, it returns about half way and I have to lift it up with my toes. Any ideas?
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# ? Aug 7, 2011 02:55 |
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Did you replace the clutch's slave cylinder (and bled the system afterwards)? I've had two legacies now that did this, and replacing the slave cylinder fixed it.
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# ? Aug 7, 2011 03:52 |
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I replaced both the master cylinder and the slave. Bled the system as well. Did I not bleed it enough?
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# ? Aug 7, 2011 04:05 |
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Does it happen all the time, or only when it's hot out? (Mine only did it when it was hot) My guess would be that it's not fully bled, based on the behavior you describe.
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# ? Aug 7, 2011 04:18 |
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Slow is Fast posted:The suspension is shot on my RS. First step, GC WRX suspension - shouldnt lower poo poo too much and will work very well. If you can find it. Second step is where I'm in your boat wondering what to do. I've just blown ANOTHER rear strut so now I have 06 STI in as a replacement but still.... I think I will need to replace all four sooner than later, plus I've gotten to the point I know I have nothing more I can get out of the standard suspension, no one can drive that car around a corner any faster. That also being said, I'll almost certainly also pull out other sad suspension bits (which woudlnt be a bad idea for you too) so it could be a fairly big job. So far I've come up with Bilstein PSS9 coilovers which seem to be quite good with good length springs ith good compliant valving - something poo poo like D2 and TEIN just do not do. Cost is a factor but if you look at it this way, a good set of suspension will last a lot longer than half arsed solutions. The other options seem to be hazy as to actual value or very painful on the pocket. So if I do the PSS9's, I'll also at the same time grab a set of offset front top mounts from Whiteline, do the free castor mod as well as shim the front arms to give the same effect as a castor offset bush..... ..... and on this I know the done thing in the USA is to do a ALK but the interesting thing is that there has been some back to back times taken of the ALK and shimming, the ALK lost. I have an interesting take on spacers for the castor mod, which I'm setting up on the rally car first ..... Then there's the bush for the control arm, new ball joints, steering rack bushing kit, move to the rear and do a subframe bushes kit, swap the trailing arm eccentric bolts for non eccentric, throw in Whiteline adustible lower arms - or go mad and do STI pillowjoints - THEN and only then I do sway bars, being adjustible ones with the proper links. Should have a marked improvement all round.
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# ? Aug 7, 2011 11:30 |
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Cat Terrist posted:First step, GC WRX suspension - shouldnt lower poo poo too much and will work very well. If you can find it. I think I'm still in the "first step" category, but I think I'd have a hard time sourcing GC WRX setups here in 'merica. I'm not at the point where my suspension is holding my driving back. Far from. I'm great on tarmac, but on dirt and snow I've still got a lot of learning to do. I've been replacing stuff as I go. Right now I've got full poly trailing arm and lateral link bushings, along with all the diff bushings and group N motor/trans mounts, trans crossmember bushings. I've got the steering rack bushings waiting to go in once I stop being lazy. I've thought up a few solutions: KYB GR2's + recommended springs Tokico D-specs + recommended springs 04 STi struts (if I can loving find them) re-valved by FEAL matching recommended springs I plan to do group N rear strut mounts but am unsure of what to do about the front (group N or adjustable). While I'm in there I was going to do an ALK, but am interested in your shimming for castor. Sway bars are the last think I had planned to touch. Like I said, I think right now I'm better off with a stock/budget setup that will provide acceptable performance and durability until I can learn the techniques and maximize my driving skills.
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# ? Aug 7, 2011 15:07 |
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Slow is Fast posted:I think I'm still in the "first step" category, but I think I'd have a hard time sourcing GC WRX setups here in 'merica. D-Specs might be hard to find. I ended up going with Koni Yellows, which were expensive but are rebuildable and really adjustable. Once I find an appropriate setting for my RCE wagon springs I should be able to have a brutal car. I think Dirty Impreza occasionally has JDM suspension gubbins up on offer, as would RS25 or NASIOC's GC flea market. You could also contact a JDM importer, though I'm afraid I don't know of any in the United States. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 16:17 on Aug 7, 2011 |
# ? Aug 7, 2011 16:09 |
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Cat Terrist posted:So if I do the PSS9's, I'll also at the same time grab a set of offset front top mounts from Whiteline, do the free castor mod as well as shim the front arms to give the same effect as a castor offset bush..... At least for the legacy GT, they're made in Japan and apparently have the damping you'd expect from a japanese shock. Don't know if that is true for imprezas, but I avoided the PSS9s on my car (have Kws instead) because of the damping quality. This is internet rumor and not personal experience, but it was from someone reasonably knowledgeable, not some random forum yahoo.
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# ? Aug 7, 2011 18:39 |
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McTinkerson posted:I replaced both the master cylinder and the slave. Bled the system as well. Did I not bleed it enough? Fixed it, I completely blanked on re-adjusting the "U"-bolt that attaches the MC plunger to the pedal. Apologies for wasting everyone's time.
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# ? Aug 7, 2011 21:41 |
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Where's the knock sensor at for an EJ22? Guides for the EJ25 seem to indicate it's under the throttle body but I can't seem to find it there, and the service manual is vague about its location as well. I'm getting a recurring P0325 and the car's old enough that I suspect the wiring is damaged. e: google is my friend Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 22:37 on Aug 7, 2011 |
# ? Aug 7, 2011 22:33 |
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nm posted:Be careful with the PSS9s for subarus. Hmmmm, interesting - I've read the opposite, which is why I had PSS9's high on the list. Disappointing if true, they look very well set up with the appropriate length springs. Whats Kws? Unfoirtunatly this is where my plan kinda has a problem as I am relying on others for good feedback as I have not tried coilovers except high end MCA / Low end DMS. I havent ruled out just simply rebuilding the DMS to track spec and planting MCA into the STI.... which given some thought right now that might even work and be my cheapest option.
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# ? Aug 7, 2011 22:43 |
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Cat Terrist posted:Hmmmm, interesting - I've read the opposite, which is why I had PSS9's high on the list. Disappointing if true, they look very well set up with the appropriate length springs. Whats Kws? Kws = KW Suspension. http://www.kw-suspension.com/us/ Good luck on your suspension search. One of the hardest parts I've found to look for. Budget-wise, I also ended up getting custom valved KW Variant 2s. They've been fine for me; but, I don't have much experience with other options. If I was made of money, I'd love to get a set of Motons (which got bought by AST).
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# ? Aug 7, 2011 23:25 |
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I ended up going with Koni Yellows, which were expensive but are rebuildable and really adjustable. Once I find an appropriate setting for my RCE wagon springs I should be able to have a brutal car. Plan on being very similar to you. Koni Yellows but one some free STi springs (winter clearance, no lowering for me please) from jamal.
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# ? Aug 8, 2011 02:34 |
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So my girlfriend's car was rear ended outside her house and the insurance company wants to total it. Anyway, it's been hard finding anything that's as quick as her car yet still has some utility to it. She drove an 05 Civic Si with a K24 and Type R transmission so it was a very fun and quick to boot. Well I'm not going to turn this into a recommend me a car thread but I've been looking at some older GC8s and thought about swapping in an EJ25 when I came upon this. http://www.rs25.com/forums/f171/t162750-93-impreza-wagon-ej20g-swapped-fast-gf-wagon.html This looks to be the perfect replacement and has the same sleeper look that my girlfriend seems to love. It will mostly be driven in the city, San Francisco, but would be used for towing around a motorcycle trailer on occasion. I'm mainly concerned with reliability as I have had a few bad experiences with turbo'd engines. What's the consensus?
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# ? Aug 8, 2011 02:34 |
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EvilCrayon posted:So my girlfriend's car was rear ended outside her house and the insurance company wants to total it. Anyway, it's been hard finding anything that's as quick as her car yet still has some utility to it. She drove an 05 Civic Si with a K24 and Type R transmission so it was a very fun and quick to boot. Personally, I hate JDM swaps. I forget which motor is not so good. EJ20K or EJ20G. I think its the K. That car seems pricey to me and I'd be more willing to get a car with a USDM swap.
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# ? Aug 8, 2011 02:46 |
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c355n4 posted:Personally, I hate JDM swaps. "30K estimated" on a V2 motor? How old is that sucker now?
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# ? Aug 8, 2011 02:46 |
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Sockington posted:Plan on being very similar to you. Koni Yellows but one some free STi springs (winter clearance, no lowering for me please) from jamal.
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# ? Aug 8, 2011 05:46 |
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Cat Terrist posted:Hmmmm, interesting - I've read the opposite, which is why I had PSS9's high on the list. Disappointing if true, they look very well set up with the appropriate length springs. Whats Kws? KW is a german manufacturer that makes mid-ish range ($1500-2000US) coilovers at about the same price point as the PSS9s. They're pretty well regarded in the US (apparently the Viper ACR came with KWs), and there's a number of AX nation champions running them (generally V3s). Good quality damping, fully rebuildable. I've never really heard a bad thing about them. They also make a higher end line, but I know nothing about them. I'm pretty pleased with mine. A quick look indicates that KW doesn't have an Aussie distributor. nm fucked around with this message at 06:16 on Aug 8, 2011 |
# ? Aug 8, 2011 06:12 |
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EvilCrayon posted:This looks to be the perfect replacement and has the same sleeper look that my girlfriend seems to love. It will mostly be driven in the city, San Francisco, but would be used for towing around a motorcycle trailer on occasion. I'm mainly concerned with reliability as I have had a few bad experiences with turbo'd engines. Get a used 02-03 wrx wagon instead. Unless you know a smog shop that is willing to overlook that motor it will never pass smog. That motor was never offered in a US model so in California, it's illegal for the street. Now if he had put a 06 wrx motor in it, not only would you be making more power, but it'd also be easy for it to pass smog. I'm also not sure it qualifies as a sleeper. Lowered on those wheels... Sure it's a GC8, but it's obviously had things done to it.
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# ? Aug 8, 2011 07:28 |
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My wagon has hit 120k miles. I'm planning on going down to South FL and meeting up with Wrar to go stage 2, but we figured if we can get the interval service in while we are at it, may as well. Whats on the to do list for 120k? Serp/Acc. Belt Trans and Diff change (Subaru S or more Redline) Spark Plugs (done at 80-90k)? Clean the K&N Air filter Is there anything else? Can I buy the majority of the parts from RockAuto or should I go OEM?
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# ? Aug 8, 2011 17:02 |
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If you put in platinum OEM equivalents can last a lot more than 30k on a properly running car. The 100k factory NGKs in mine were still looking good.
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# ? Aug 8, 2011 18:15 |
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Lord Gaga posted:If you put in platinum OEM equivalents can last a lot more than 30k on a properly running car. The 100k factory NGKs in mine were still looking good. I replaced them with OEM NGK's.
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# ? Aug 8, 2011 18:43 |
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So the shifter in my new beater Outback Sport springs back to centre if I move it to the right in neutral, but if I move it to the left it just slops and hangs there. At first I thought maybe there was a broken spring in there, but I can't find a spring in the explosion diagrams for the shifter gubbins. Is it a worn bushing in the linkage, or something far worse? I'm unclear on which bushing controls this lateral motion. It's odd that it would only slop on one side, though I guess that side of it gets a lot more use. I noticed that for the pre-02s TiC have an entirely new chunk of the linkage. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 19:19 on Aug 8, 2011 |
# ? Aug 8, 2011 19:16 |
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Seat Safety Switch posted:So the shifter in my new beater Outback Sport springs back to centre if I move it to the right in neutral, but if I move it to the left it just slops and hangs there. At first I thought maybe there was a broken spring in there, but I can't find a spring in the explosion diagrams for the shifter gubbins. What year outback sport? Some of the early ones had a little return spring. Oh dur, that TIC link explains it.
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# ? Aug 8, 2011 19:41 |
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So my warranty company isn't going to cover the cost to replace the crank in my 99 legacy outback due to a stripped bolt causing the balancer to fall off. Since the bolt stripped the crank, they are saying they aren't liable to fix the car. I guess the bolt isn't a covered part. So my question is, how much is a 99 subaru legacy with 111,000 miles and a bad crank worth? I am just trying to figure out a general number so I don't loose too much on the car. Or how much do you think it would be to fix the crank (shop quoted me at 3000 for a new used engine). Thanks!
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# ? Aug 9, 2011 01:11 |
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# ? May 26, 2024 14:56 |
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Lord_Xar posted:So my warranty company isn't going to cover the cost to replace the crank in my 99 legacy outback due to a stripped bolt causing the balancer to fall off. Since the bolt stripped the crank, they are saying they aren't liable to fix the car. I guess the bolt isn't a covered part. DOHC or SOHC? You can pick up used DOHC engines from Jap importers pretty cheaply.
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# ? Aug 9, 2011 01:56 |