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bring back old gbs posted:Thats fine, you're going to burn/scrape it all off anyways. I'd switch to holding the heater block and heatsink with 2 pairs of pliers at this point while its heated and just twisting them apart. Yeah it's a mess but you can fix it with a torch lighter and wire brush afterward. I used a vise grips on it after heating it up and pushed out the element (even at 220, was pretty good in there preventing extraction by pulling in the wire ) with a hex key. Waiting for it to cool down. Nah, you are right but I'm just worried how hosed up the PTFE liner is.
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May 10, 2017 20:18
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moron izzard posted:Anyone have a recommendation for asa filament? Seems like everyone like rigid.ink, but there is no US seller? ASA filament is basically dead for hobbyists. There is this supplier out of Michigan: http://www.3dxtech.com/natural-asa-filament/
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May 10, 2017 20:35
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Why is it dead for hobbyists?
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May 10, 2017 22:12
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insta posted:Why is it dead for hobbyists? Have you ever read about anybody printing objects with it?
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May 10, 2017 22:24
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Can't help but wonder if that's a chicken & egg problem though.
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May 11, 2017 01:08
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I'm trying to get Cura running, but I'm having an issue, but I think I know what's going on. It seems that, after my machine runs through the BLTouch auto-level, it's moving from the lower left corner to the center. When it's doing this, it appears to move the Z axis down slightly, and it crashes at the center. However, when it's trying to print, even though it's not printing properly, it isn't still crashing the surface; I can see space between the bed and the nozzle. So, I've been playing with the Z offset in Marlin, but it seems impossible to get it right. I'm either too high, and the nozzle is extruding but not touching the bed. Or, the nozzle doesn't extrude because there is a jam caused by the crash, yet sometimes when this happens, I can still see open space between the bed and nozzle! My suspicion is that Cura's splicing is moving the nozzle down when it's going to the center, but then it goes back up a bit when it starts printing. What could cause this? Here's my start gcode script, taken from Simplify3D: quote:G1 Z5 F50; lift nozzle Edit: Okay, it's not a crashing issue.  What is happening here? I hot pulled this, while it was trying to print the first few layers, when nothing was coming out. I put the filament back in (cut this part off, of course), and 5 minutes later I see that it eventually did start printing. Of course, it wasn't touching the bed. This only happens with my Cura gcode. Revol fucked around with this message at 03:55 on May 11, 2017 |
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May 11, 2017 02:44
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I don't feel like I know what I'm doing yet but since my first example print was good, I decided to just leap right in. I'm currently printing a 120mm fan adapter for the maker select control/psu box that also has a mounting spot for the MOSFET board for the bed heater (fan noise is my only complaint about this printer so far). I re-leveled the bed before I started and it seems to have started well, no weirdness in the print after the raft and it beginning the print. The only thing that makes me concerned is that Cura said the print will take 39 hours. I don't mind if it takes that long, but I sort of hope it doesn't because I feel like that amount of time means it will have lots of time to get hosed up and ruin the print while it's going. If everything goes well my next prints will probably be for the extra z-braces.
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May 11, 2017 04:46
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Rexxed posted:I don't feel like I know what I'm doing yet but since my first example print was good, I decided to just leap right in. I'm currently printing a 120mm fan adapter for the maker select control/psu box that also has a mounting spot for the MOSFET board for the bed heater (fan noise is my only complaint about this printer so far). I re-leveled the bed before I started and it seems to have started well, no weirdness in the print after the raft and it beginning the print. The only thing that makes me concerned is that Cura said the print will take 39 hours. I don't mind if it takes that long, but I sort of hope it doesn't because I feel like that amount of time means it will have lots of time to get hosed up and ruin the print while it's going. If everything goes well my next prints will probably be for the extra z-braces. What are you printing that will take 39 hours? I hate to say it, but I wouldn't recommend you get that crazy just yet. Hell, I've had my printer for 5 months, and the longest print I've done is maybe 12 hours. Go for a big job, but man, that's just gigantic for a second print.
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May 11, 2017 04:50
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It's this guy: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2073628 It's the second model with the 80x59 mount points for the mosfet board. I'm not sure why the print is estimated to take so long but I do have a brand new 1kg spool of PLA it's using and so far it's printing fine. Maybe I should've used fatter layers? All I really did in cura was set my printer as a Prusa i3 and change the bed dimensions for the maker select and import the stl file. I had to turn it 90' to make sure it's printing in a sensible orientation (the tabs that are obviously angled to account for overhang are on top). Maybe the estimate is wrong, maybe I just set it to a really fine detail level because I'm  and I'll have a really nice looking utility part, or maybe it'll break halfway and I'll learn a valuable lesson.
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May 11, 2017 04:57
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I'm in the middle of a nearly 50 hour print and it's always kind of nerve wracking. Reliability really pays off at times like this.
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May 11, 2017 05:11
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Rexxed posted:It's this guy: What is your layer height set at ? Also since we're talking 3d you'll have to be more specific of which axis you turned the thing 90 degrees on. Beat way to print that would to have the opening on top to prevent it from printing a ton of support on the inside for the roof (and also a bitch to remove.) Since you are printing with pla you should not experience corners lifting off the printing base from cooling. Not sure why that thing would take an entire day and a half. I totally think it's your layer height and printing speed. Check your forums for suggestions (and not just preloaded settings ) on proper printing spreads for your hotend .
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May 11, 2017 05:12
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EVIL Gibson posted:What is your layer height set at ? Also since we're talking 3d you'll have to be more specific of which axis you turned the thing 90 degrees on. Yeah, I think my layer height being .1mm is too fine. I honestly didn't realize that was a slicer setting and not somehow included in the model, although now that I think about it that makes sense. Well, I learned something and my part may end up being pointlessly beautiful. One of the open ends is to the top, it makes sense that building up the walls vertically is the reasonable way to print this without absurd overhangs. Some things are common sense, some aren't, I guess. Thanks for the help.
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May 11, 2017 05:20
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Received a 5lb box of fasteners from aliexpress and have apparently spent the past 6 hours assembling my mk2 clone. My kingdom for a 625zz bearing 
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May 11, 2017 05:50
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Rexxed posted:Yeah, I think my layer height being .1mm is too fine. I honestly didn't realize that was a slicer setting and not somehow included in the model, although now that I think about it that makes sense. Well, I learned something and my part may end up being pointlessly beautiful. One of the open ends is to the top, it makes sense that building up the walls vertically is the reasonable way to print this without absurd overhangs. Some things are common sense, some aren't, I guess. Thanks for the help. Yeah if you're using the default high quality settings for the i3 version of Cura it's going to print at like .05 with a 100% infill.
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May 11, 2017 07:34
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Rexxed posted:Yeah, I think my layer height being .1mm is too fine. I honestly didn't realize that was a slicer setting and not somehow included in the model, although now that I think about it that makes sense. Well, I learned something and my part may end up being pointlessly beautiful. I got my Maker Select Plus a few weeks ago, and did the same thing. I had no idea what any of the slicer settings did and I just wanted to 3D print my first thing, so I just copied in all the 'factory recommended' settings from some website. I was dismayed that it took over four hours to print out a 75% size Benchy, and figured that it was just one of the foibles of 3D printing (the first thing I every 3D printed looked great, though). Then I learned about layer thickness (halve the time by printing .2 instead of .1), print speeds, and different infill types, wall thicknesses, etc., and realized that the 'factory recommended' settings wasn't necessarily the best settings for what I'd be 3D printing.
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May 11, 2017 08:57
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I think I succeeded in loading the defaults from one of the included gcode files on the sdcard which got me to .1mm with 20% infill, so it's not too terrible. I mean it's overkill, but now I know better. 100% infill would be kind of silly for what's essentially a fan mount. It's still going and it looks nice so far, but it's been about 5 hours for 17% so welp.
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May 11, 2017 09:09
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On the plus side, that fan mount ought to be nearly indestructible if it's 100% filled.
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May 11, 2017 12:05
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Holy poo poo, the bids on everything in that 3d printer auction jumped. $45,000 for that SLS printer so far.
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May 11, 2017 15:49
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Anyone know of a guide on how to move a configuration from S3D to Cura? Or at least how to configure Cura? It seems like I have more options available to me, and something is keeping my extruder from working correctly, it is jamming at the very beginning of the print. Maybe an acceleration or speed with the extruder is not what I'm expecting or something.
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May 11, 2017 17:17
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Revol posted:Anyone know of a guide on how to move a configuration from S3D to Cura? Or at least how to configure Cura? It seems like I have more options available to me, and something is keeping my extruder from working correctly, it is jamming at the very beginning of the print. Maybe an acceleration or speed with the extruder is not what I'm expecting or something. Did you hit advanced options because that unlocks the Ark of the Covenant and will melt your face. I've only moved from Slic3r (which is similar to Cura in amount of options) to S3D and I got awful results until I let S3D put in it's own poo poo and it worked fine after I changed an insane low speed for first layer. How is it jamming? Like crashing into the bed, big blobs of filament, or something like it seems it is not putting out enough filament for the coverage? Are you printing a raft or a brim?
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May 11, 2017 18:14
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My x carriage isn't sliding smoothly on my mk2 clone -- seems like the pulley on the motor is off center? Has anyone seen something similar? I'm hoping it's not the shaft on the motor that's bent, because I have a couple spare pulleys I'm gonna try swapping in. I tried tightening the grub screws in a different order (shaft before flat-face) and that didn't fix it.
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May 11, 2017 18:59
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mewse posted:My x carriage isn't sliding smoothly on my mk2 clone -- seems like the pulley on the motor is off center? Has anyone seen something similar? I'm hoping it's not the shaft on the motor that's bent, because I have a couple spare pulleys I'm gonna try swapping in. If it uses a belt, it needs to be taut. The non-smooth sliding is suggesting that the belt is slipping from the gears.
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May 11, 2017 19:31
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It's taut.. hard to explain how the motion is bad - the resistance is a sine wave that aligns with the rotation of the pulley which seems to indicate the pulley is off-center
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May 11, 2017 19:41
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EVIL Gibson posted:Did you hit advanced options because that unlocks the Ark of the Covenant and will melt your face. Oh yeah, my face is melted. It's jamming by simply not extruding. It doesn't crash (not now that I raised my Z offset in Marlin). It's just the extruder isn't able to push out filament, while gcode from S3D will. I'm only printing a skirt, or at least trying to. It doesn't even get that down.
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May 11, 2017 23:31
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As my unintentional megaprint is about halfway done I figured I'd ask a couple of questions. 1) The front left corner looks to have lifted off the bed slightly, but it may just be the raft because the overall dimensions don't look out of whack. It printed for a few hours before this happened. I've seen folks suggest the included buildtak is okay but not amazing, and the old blue painter's tape doesn't seem to be recommended anymore. Is a sheet of borosilicate glass with PEI on top recommended for PLA? 2) On the front facing side of the print there's some vertical lines. I'm guessing that this is from the head printing the infill and going slightly over where it wants to stop due to the lack of the z-braces. Does that seem right? z-braces will be one of the next things I make.
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May 12, 2017 02:41
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Obsurveyor posted:Isn't Nylon even worse than ABS as far as carcinogens and stuff produced? Decomposing nylon will release HCN, which isn't a carcinogen, but the acute effects are very nasty, you might know it better as cyanide. Just melting it though won't cause cause significant decomposition, but it wouldn't be good to bring it to the smoke point and keep it there for a while. Actually setting it on fire would actually be better, as the cyanide would burn up as well. Other than that fire is also rather dangerous. If you overheat ABS it will mostly release styrene, which is hazardous, but isn't known to be a carcinogen either, which is interesting considering that it's very well studied. The short of scientific literature is inconclusive. Decomposing ABS can also emit HCN, but the individual polymer that can emit it makes up much less of ABS so it can't emit near as much of it as nylon could. You'll also get a zoo of other random VOCs. You also get a sampling of whatever additives were added along with the polymers. All that said, the answer to the question "is nylon safe to print with?" Is almost certainly yes. A properly working nozzle won't degrade an appreciable amount of nylon. One that's too hot could decompose nylon, but even then only a very small amount will actually be in the nozzle. The heated bed can't get hot enough to damage nylon either. Aurium fucked around with this message at 16:06 on May 12, 2017 |
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May 12, 2017 04:17
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I've been exhibiting at a trade show for work this past week and have had the pleasure of using Flashforge's new Guider 2. Is currently the only one in Australia and will be getting released early June. Build size is 280 x 250 x 300, going down to 0.05 layer heights. It's slaying overhangs like a champion and is giving me a few ideas for modifying my Prusa. It's got cooling on the nozzle from every side. This head was printed at 0.2.   I've also had a bit of a walk around and seen some really cool printers, including this beast from Rais3d.  We're also next to some guys who are using an SLS process on powdered metals and producing really impressive parts. I'll see if I can't get some photos.
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May 12, 2017 04:23
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I have modded my xyz jr to include a new heater cartridge and heated bed. I aim to print abs. Currently I am running a 4 hour print and loosing adhesion and suffering curling with pla which is weird. https://imgur.com/gallery/rWXC0 Now that's annoying but when I went to check on my printer after 20 mins to check the skirt the bloody stc-1000 had melted. Like completely... this is bad! I leave my printer unattended often and this is one day after leaving the bed at a toasty 80 degrees c. gently caress https://imgur.com/gallery/W0R6j
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May 12, 2017 09:29
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I'm getting the feeling that you should always run your hotbed through a mosfet no matter what printer you're using. Now if only I had remembered to print the mounting plate before I took the printer apart...
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May 12, 2017 10:12
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My heated bed is completely separate. Its on its own thermostat (which melted itself) and it own power supply.
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May 12, 2017 10:36
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thegasman2000 posted:My heated bed is completely separate. Its on its own thermostat (which melted itself) and it own power supply. Are you using the STC-1000 to switch the 12v side or the 120v side? Not knowing the specifics about your setup, the first few heated bed mods for that printer that I found were using a heating pad that can draw up to 11.5A on the 12v rail. The STC-1000 is officially rated for 10A and I'm 95% sure that the majority of the ones for sale online are clones which may not be built to the same standard as the originals. If you're switching on the 120v side it should be well under two amps unless the power supply is horribly inefficient, so that should never even come close to melting anything.
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May 12, 2017 14:30
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Yeah switching the 240v side. I got a 240v stc. I use a 12v one on my fish tank. gently caress knows why happened. I was using a Prusa mk2 heated pcb bed clone. Again 12v through a Pc power supply. Ah well. Might get a silicone heater mat this time and try that. Or a new printer such is the disease of this hobby.
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May 12, 2017 15:44
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thegasman2000 posted:Yeah switching the 240v side. I got a 240v stc. I use a 12v one on my fish tank. gently caress knows why happened. I was using a Prusa mk2 heated pcb bed clone. Again 12v through a Pc power supply. Ah well. Might get a silicone heater mat this time and try that. Or a new printer such is the disease of this hobby. Wow yeah, at 240v the amperage should be nice and low, certainly nothing that should have been even close to a problem for the hardware and wires pictured. I'd also imagine that your power supply would have popped long before it was pulling enough power to do that under normal conditions. I'd guess that something about those screw terminals was loose, damaged, or defective in such a way as to cause high resistance and/or arcing. If you open the device up (which you may not want to do if you intend to make a warranty claim or anything like that) the condition of the relay behind the terminals should probably make it pretty obvious where the heat was centered. There are some electrical and fire pros over in the Don't burn your house down thread who could probably give you a more informed opinion.
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May 12, 2017 18:38
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The plastic mount for that terminal screw literally melted as I touched it. I was guessing an lose connection as those screws are hard to torque down but nope! Weird. Also bought from AliExpress so no warranty claim. When you pay £6 what do you expect really I guess. Gonna get the 12v one next time as mains really really hurts when you gently caress up.
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May 12, 2017 18:49
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I've recently gotten an Ultimaker3 and boy it's sexy. Out of the box, works great for small prints, but having issues with some bigger prints that I've tried so far. I've been using Ultimaker's filaments and settings through Cura, but noticed it has some issues with the brim, it warps and lifts initially, and while the print does manage to go on for some time, sometimes the print messes up much later in the printing. I've tried upping the build plate temp a bit as well as using the glue they gave me to help with the adhesion but so far not much success on the bigger prints. Not sure what's wrong so far. Don't have any pictures to attach with the post sorry.
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May 12, 2017 18:56
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PEI sheet if they don't already have one, purple gluestick if it's an ultra critical long print, and squish that first layer more. PEI is good for both PLA and ABS. I use it bare, wiped with isopropyl, for quick prints, and with gluestick for long, big ones. First layer squish is important. I print the first layer at 75 C and up it to 90 C on layer 2.
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May 12, 2017 20:11
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Did anyone else back Lokbuild? I've been experimenting with PETG on it and its been working surprisingly well after adding +.1mm to the Z-offset in Simplify3D. If I can catch the print when the bed cools to about 40C I can pop it right off. If its back to ambient I just slip my scraper under one corner of the print and tap the print directly and it pops off. Haven't played with PLA or ABS on it yet, but I'm happy with the PETG results.
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May 12, 2017 23:26
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What was the train of thought of what temps to set the hotend/bed layer wise? Is it super hot first couple of layers and then ramp down or is it cool first layers than ramp up? What is the reason for either case? Another note and update is I totally snapped the heat break into the block. I bought two or block/therm/breaks (I could not get the grub screw out since it was filled with abs.) And I noticed the rubber bootie was a totally champ at blocking stray filament from hitting the block from below but it was super torn around the nozzle. Is this common for booties?
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May 13, 2017 00:06
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I do low and then ramp up because otherwise it takes FOREVER to heat up on 12V. But I'm ABS all the way.
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May 13, 2017 00:13
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| # ? Jun 11, 2024 07:46 |
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EVIL Gibson posted:What was the train of thought of what temps to set the hotend/bed layer wise? Is it super hot first couple of layers and then ramp down or is it cool first layers than ramp up? What is the reason for either case? I think people do a (slightly) hotter and slower first layer to ensure adhesion
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May 13, 2017 00:17
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