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ShaneB posted:The 2340M is pretty criminally overlooked, as far as I can tell.
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Jan 21, 2014 16:18
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Tgent posted:I'm having a really hard time picking a new monitor. I'm after one that is: You can just grab a cable with HDMI on one end and Displayport on the other end to take care of the port issue. Once that's out of the way you can just get the thread favorite U2312 which fills all your other requirements (Probably, not sure about local availability?) U2312s have essentially no input lag.
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Jan 21, 2014 16:51
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Nephilm posted:You're using HDMI/DVI, right? Yeah, but that was in self-diagnosis mode, where the monitor had been disconnected from the computer. Also, here's a new development over the last week. Perhaps it'll turn blue next week or something. The only thing I can imagine that could remotely be the cause is a pair of really old and lovely speakers that I leave on the whole day next to the right side of the monitor. 
Leucos fucked around with this message at 18:14 on Jan 21, 2014 |
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Jan 21, 2014 17:39
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Leucos posted:Yeah, but that was in self-diagnosis mode, where the monitor had been disconnected from the computer. In that case just degauss it...
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Jan 21, 2014 22:39
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Leucos posted:Yeah, but that was in self-diagnosis mode, where the monitor had been disconnected from the computer.
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Jan 21, 2014 22:43
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Gwaihir posted:You can just grab a cable with HDMI on one end and Displayport on the other end to take care of the port issue. Once that's out of the way you can just get the thread favorite U2312 which fills all your other requirements (Probably, not sure about local availability?) U2312s have essentially no input lag. Last I heard, these cables only work one way: DisplayPort -> HDMI. The poster wants to plug his ps3/xbox into his monitor, so he would need a bulkier, more expensive "active" adapter to go from HDMI -> DisplayPort. That's money better spent on a better monitor (with HDMI). Tgent posted:I'm having a really hard time picking a new monitor. I'm after one that is: I don't know why I said this because why the hell else would someone have a DisplayPort if it wasn't on the GPU? I'm tired. Corn Nuts fucked around with this message at 01:45 on Jan 22, 2014 |
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Jan 22, 2014 01:29
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Leucos posted:Yeah, but that was in self-diagnosis mode, where the monitor had been disconnected from the computer. Modern panels don't work that way. If it was a dirty powerline you may notice other problems such as flickering or dimming (beyond what dynamic contrast does), so it's probably not that. Maybe you have a humidity problem? Else you got monitors from the same bad batch. Doctor rear end in a top hat posted:Looks like your monitor was made in Mexico. 
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Jan 22, 2014 02:48
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Corn Nuts posted:Last I heard, these cables only work one way: DisplayPort -> HDMI. The poster wants to plug his ps3/xbox into his monitor, so he would need a bulkier, more expensive "active" adapter to go from HDMI -> DisplayPort. That's money better spent on a better monitor (with HDMI). Hm, I'd never heard that before. I'll have to test mine and see if that is in fact true. (I've only used it to hook my laptop with DP out to TVs and receivers HDMI in).
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Jan 22, 2014 04:01
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Here's how it works: - Passive adapters are just a dumb cable that matches the slots on either side of the connection. It is the output's job then to detect that what's connected on the other side of its DP port is actually an HDMI device, so it instead sends an HDMI signal through the cable. Laptops with just a single displayport output use these. - Active adapters, on the other hand, actually turn an incoming DisplayPort signal into HDMI, or vice versa. To do this they need a built-in converter chip, hence their cost. Additionally, they only work one way (either DP -> HDMI or HDMI -> DP), never both unless there's an even more outrageously priced adapter I'm unaware of. The result of this is that if an output device doesn't have some sort of built-in conversion feature, a passive adapter just won't work. As an aside, the reason why AMDs eyefinity only works with up to two HDMI/DVI outputs and needs a DP for the third display is that the hardware clock that regulates the HDMI/DVI signal can only handle up to two, so they 'got around' that limitation by using a DP. If you plug in a third HDMI display using an active adapter things will work just fine, but if you use a passive one then, even if the card can normally convert the signal in its DP output to HDMI, the signal regulation hardware is all used up so no dice. Aside from Xbox 360 which supported VGA, all other consoles (PS3, PS4 and Xbox One) only support HDMI, so if you wanted to connect them to a displayport screen you'll need an active adapter that'll run you just short of a hundred bucks.
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Jan 22, 2014 04:43
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I've recently moved to a new place and I have a lot more space than I used to. I was looking to upgrade my monitor from a 19" to something a bit larger for watching movies on the nearby couch. My main concern is that I am not sure what resolution my graphics card can handle, and I have been running most games at 1680x1050 for the past few years. This is my current graphics card, an EVGA GeForce GTX 560 Ti. I am hoping to upgrade to a 27", and if anyone has anything they can suggest for me it would be greatly appreciated.
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Jan 22, 2014 05:08
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Your 560 Ti will be fine. It goes up to 2560x1600.
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Jan 22, 2014 05:12
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Nephilm posted:Aside from Xbox 360 which supported VGA, all other consoles (PS3, PS4 and Xbox One) only support HDMI, so if you wanted to connect them to a displayport screen you'll need an active adapter that'll run you just short of a hundred bucks. Active adapters can be had for about 20 bucks now. EDIT: Oops misread, yeah HDMI to DisplayPort adaptors are a bit more pricey. SCheeseman fucked around with this message at 05:46 on Jan 22, 2014 |
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Jan 22, 2014 05:38
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Dirty Job posted:I've recently moved to a new place and I have a lot more space than I used to. I was looking to upgrade my monitor from a 19" to something a bit larger for watching movies on the nearby couch. My main concern is that I am not sure what resolution my graphics card can handle, and I have been running most games at 1680x1050 for the past few years. 1920x1080/1200 or 2560x1440? That's the important thing. For the former it'll still be okayish for games though you'll have to sacrifice detail for framerate, for the latter you're not going to be able to run modern games decently at the monitor's native resolution.
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Jan 22, 2014 05:56
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I'm eyeing that Dell U2913WM. Anybody have experience with this monitor?
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Jan 22, 2014 15:26
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X-posting from the parts picking thread. I'm trying to choose between the Asus VN248H-P and the Dell S2340M http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...N82E16824236335 http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009H0XQRS/?tag=pcpapi-20 Or are there any better monitors at that price point?
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Jan 22, 2014 17:06
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KinkyJohn posted:I'm eyeing that Dell U2913WM. Anybody have experience with this monitor? I was one time enticed by the idea of a bezel-less dual screen setup that the U2913wm promises. But the thing is its only 1080 tall. Also very little is coded to be full width at 1280 wide so when you have two windows side by side they'll have scrollbars at the bottom. On the other hand, all these Korean 27" monitors that get posted will give you the same width and 1440 vertical pixels. The Korean panel just won't be as physically wide. What I'm saying is I can't think of any advantage that 29 inch ultrawide has over the 27" 16:9 panels that are more popular. Now if you were looking at the Dell U3415W that is supposed to be 34400x1440 that's a different story. Coredump fucked around with this message at 17:17 on Jan 22, 2014 |
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Jan 22, 2014 17:12
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How do refresh rates work with multiple monitors? I'd guess that each one runs independently of each other, but how would that affect windowed games that span multiple monitors? I'm considering buying this monitor, which apparently runs at 75 Hz. I suppose I could just run it at 60 Hz if it ends up being a problem, but I was just curious if anyone had experience with something like this.
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Jan 22, 2014 17:34
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It probably depends on the game. In general they should be rendering to a buffer and whatever buffer is newest is what gets sent to the screen (there's actually like three more steps in that process, but I'm omitting them for simplicity), in which case the refresh rate wouldn't really matter. The rate at which the buffer is updated and the rate at which it is read from are basically independent; it just means that some updates may be skipped or some may be doubled, which isn't actually a big deal. You might see some sort of tearing from one monitor to the other but I bet it would be pretty hard to notice. You can always just run both at 60hz though if that's a problem, just because the monitor supports 75 doesn't mean you have to use it.
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Jan 22, 2014 18:00
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KinkyJohn posted:I'm eyeing that Dell U2913WM. Anybody have experience with this monitor? Coredump posted:I was one time enticed by the idea of a bezel-less dual screen setup that the U2913wm promises. But the thing is its only 1080 tall. Also very little is coded to be full width at 1280 wide so when you have two windows side by side they'll have scrollbars at the bottom. On the other hand, all these Korean 27" monitors that get posted will give you the same width and 1440 vertical pixels. The Korean panel just won't be as physically wide. What I'm saying is I can't think of any advantage that 29 inch ultrawide has over the 27" 16:9 panels that are more popular. Now if you were looking at the Dell U3415W that is supposed to be 34400x1440 that's a different story. Don't believe the hate. The resolution is fine, and the experience while gaming is awesome; although if you have the money you should get the 34 inch one. I don't have horizontal scroll bar issues either.  
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Jan 22, 2014 21:09
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I'm about to embark on a (probably) somewhat silly journey: Replacing the AUOptronics TN panel in my W520 with an IPS panel. Based on nothing better than internet hearsay that an LG LP156WF4-SLB1 panel from a Sony Vaio SE would fit, I naturally ordered one from one of the random suppliers on Alibaba, along with a special LVDS cable extension to account for the LG panel's connector being on the left side of the screen vs the right side connector on the original AUO B154HW01 v4 screen that came in the laptop. This should be an interesting experiment, because the reviewed color gamut for this screen is quite a bit smaller than the 95% rated gamut of the TN display, but I've just gotten so damned tired of shifting the screen slightly up or down to hit that TN sweet spot that I think it's worth a shot. Besides, swapping the screen on a Thinkpad is super easy, and the panel itself is pretty cheap.
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Jan 22, 2014 23:46
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So I got one of these cheapo Korean 27" displays for my work maybe a year ago, and I didn't notice this until a month or so ago, but now the whole right edge has what looks like sort of water stains, with darker image on one side and lighter on the other with an irregular edge. Just curious what causes this and if it is repairable? I've seen this sort of thing before in another really old lovely refurbished lcd I had long ago. I can try to take a picture if necessary but I figure this is probably a common enough thing that someone knows what I'm talking about. Not a big deal if it can't be fixed, doesn't bother me much since it's only on the edge which I'm not staring at 99% of the time.
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Jan 23, 2014 01:04
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Gwaihir posted:I'm about to embark on a (probably) somewhat silly journey: Replacing the AUOptronics TN panel in my W520 with an IPS panel. Based on nothing better than internet hearsay that an LG LP156WF4-SLB1 panel from a Sony Vaio SE would fit, I naturally ordered one from one of the random suppliers on Alibaba, along with a special LVDS cable extension to account for the LG panel's connector being on the left side of the screen vs the right side connector on the original AUO B154HW01 v4 screen that came in the laptop. It sounds crazy, but I've seen laptops that use various revisions of a given panel where the location of the connector changed, requiring the use of different LVDS cables (or an extender to take it from one side of the screen to the other). Most laptop panels have the same three or four screw holes on each side to secure it to the hinge bracket, so if that and the LVDS connector match, it's at least worth a shot. Was the rated gamut on the LG IPS panel measured relative to sRGB or something else, like NTSC, which is much wider? 
Zorilla fucked around with this message at 01:16 on Jan 23, 2014 |
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Jan 23, 2014 01:14
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peepsalot posted:So I got one of these cheapo Korean 27" displays for my work maybe a year ago, and I didn't notice this until a month or so ago, but now the whole right edge has what looks like sort of water stains, with darker image on one side and lighter on the other with an irregular edge. If you have a photo, I'm curious to see what it looks like. While taking my FIRST FSM-270YG apart to clear out some dust trapped behind the LCD matrix, I accidentally pulled one of the pins loose on the LED backlight wire harness. There was barely any solder holding it on in the first place, so it was no surprise this happened. The result of this was that the left side of my screen became slightly darker and dingy than the right. The effect was subtle enough that I wasn't sure if it was like that when I got it a few days earlier. As soon as I soldered the pin back on, everything returned to the way it was supposed to look. Different LED and wiring arrangements could cause different effects when there are connection problems. For instance, I've seen a couple of MacBook Pros display a "stage light" effect across the bottom because the LVDS cable wasn't seated properly. This kind of connection problem could explain what you're seeing as well. You might check your LED backlight wiring harness to make sure nothing has broken off. It's worth noting that actual water contamination manifests as concentrated light spots and not dark ones. That can usually be fixed by disassembling the panel down to the backlight and wiping away any trapped moisture between the acrylic diffuser sheets. Zorilla fucked around with this message at 01:32 on Jan 23, 2014 |
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Jan 23, 2014 01:26
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Zorilla posted:If you have a photo, I'm curious to see what it looks like. Ok, here's a lovely cellphone pic with the background set to a grey that accentuates it pretty well. On a pure white background it is much less noticeable. With a black background, I can't see it at all.  While we're on the subject of korean IPS monitor quality, I've also seen on occasion the top line of pixels look like random mess on this monitor(its not doing it now), but I'm not sure if that's the monitor's fault or more likely my video card/drivers. Its this model by the way: ACHIEVA Shimian QH270-Lite Quad HD FREE Voltage Monitor 2560x1440 16:9 D-Sub NEW peepsalot fucked around with this message at 01:45 on Jan 23, 2014 |
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Jan 23, 2014 01:36
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peepsalot posted:Ok, here's a lovely cellphone pic with the background set to a grey that accentuates it pretty well. On a pure white background it is much less noticeable. With a black background, I can't see it at all. Ok, that's definitely not a backlight wiring defect. Maybe it is water after all (or calcium deposits from where water may have been). I've also seen a panel where you could see dark blotches near the middle, but only when displaying gray. The spots wouldn't show up if you displayed any other color. They were somewhat symmetrical and this was a MacBook Pro, so that could have been pressure marks or some other abuse, though. You could try disassembling it, taking the steel inner bezel off (careful around the edge ribbons), then laying the panel inside the rear shell and putting it prone on your desk while plugged in and turned on. Since you will have the inner bezel removed, you can lift the LCD matrix from the bottom slightly and see if the defect follows the image on the panel or stays with the backlight. If it's the backlight, you may be able to wipe away any trapped moisture between the diffuser sheets. If it's the panel, you might be screwed. Zorilla fucked around with this message at 02:12 on Jan 23, 2014 |
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Jan 23, 2014 01:47
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Is the dell U3011 being replaced or will they be producing more? Does anyone know yet?
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Jan 23, 2014 02:10
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Zorilla posted:It sounds crazy, but I've seen laptops that use various revisions of a given panel where the location of the connector changed, requiring the use of different LVDS cables (or an extender to take it from one side of the screen to the other). Most laptop panels have the same three or four screw holes on each side to secure it to the hinge bracket, so if that and the LVDS connector match, it's at least worth a shot. Anandtech tested it as coming in at 51% of AdobeRGB/1998: http://anandtech.com/show/5722/sony-vaio-se-an-ips-laptop-for-under-a-grand/6 So, not great:  On the other hand, I have a hardware calibrator that I can use to try and help smooth over the worst bits (maybe). I sorta doubt that the W520's built in meter will work, but who knows. Avian Pneumonia posted:Is the dell U3011 being replaced or will they be producing more? The U3014 replaced the 3011. I have one, and while it has quite heavy pixel overdrive issues, I like it a lot better than the 3008 I had before. Gwaihir fucked around with this message at 02:27 on Jan 23, 2014 |
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Jan 23, 2014 02:22
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It's weird because I don't notice pixel overdrive on my U3014 at all in games or movies, but sometimes scrolling down websites/documents can get pretty annoying.
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Jan 24, 2014 11:12
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Jack the Lad posted:It's weird because I don't notice pixel overdrive on my U3014 at all in games or movies, but sometimes scrolling down websites/documents can get pretty annoying. No, it makes sense - in games/movies there's a lot to keep track of on the screen with multiple shades of colors, but when working with documents you're dealing with clearly defined lines against a contrasting background tone, which is the perfect situation to notice artifacts. It's why overdrive in general is only recommended to be turned on for games and movies.
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Jan 24, 2014 11:39
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Jack the Lad posted:It's weird because I don't notice pixel overdrive on my U3014 at all in games or movies, but sometimes scrolling down websites/documents can get pretty annoying. Yea, what Nephilim said. The easiest way to see it is absolutely scrolling down forums with light backgrounds and dark text. The only game I can ever see it in at all is in War Thunder, if I'm looking at a player's dark colored nameplate against a very light sky backdrop. I've never noticed it at all in any other games.
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Jan 24, 2014 16:11
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Project franken-IPS-W520 has met with one success, a few delays, and a couple quandaries. (Side note, they sent me an LP156WH4 SL BA panel instead of a LP156WF4-SLB1. No idea what differences that might account for, but the one I got is indeed a 1080 matte IPS screen that is the same size as my current one) First off, the success: The screen is indeed pin compatible with a Thinkpad:   Known issues that I have to decide how to tackle: Tabs in the way of hinges, no problem, dremmel that poo poo off.  New screen is thinner than the old one, and lacks the reinforced metal outer skeleton the old screen has to both provide mounting screw points and prevent screen flex: OK, pad the back of the new screen with double sided adhesive foam to fill out the spot in the mounting rails on the laptop's chassis. The go all  and use some carbon fiber strips across the back of the new screen for rigidity All this fun will have to wait though, because... the LVDS extension cable I got isn't long enough. And even if it is, I'm going to have to get creative, somehow, because the connector on the new screen is much lower and closer to the hinges than the one on the old:  
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Jan 25, 2014 01:06
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peepsalot posted:Ok, here's a lovely cellphone pic with the background set to a grey that accentuates it pretty well. On a pure white background it is much less noticeable. With a black background, I can't see it at all. Hm, I have the same sort of issue on my Dell 3007WFP-HC, but that monitor is refurbished and also like 6 years old. Funnily enough, Something Awful is the site I visit most where it's really noticeable.
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Jan 25, 2014 02:02
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Tgent posted:This looks pretty much perfect and is available from my local store. Reasonably priced too. Thanks! Ended up getting this, and it does indeed seem to be identical to the VS239H-P (it has the adjustable pixel overdrive). Very happy with it so far. A little spot of backlight bleed in the lower left but I gather that's pretty common even in more expensive panels.
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Jan 25, 2014 02:07
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fookolt posted:Hm, I have the same sort of issue on my Dell 3007WFP-HC, but that monitor is refurbished and also like 6 years old. That's actually LCD panel de-lamination, and it sucks :< I ran in to it on my 3008, and yea it tends to show up the most on greys. It's not your drivers or video card.
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Jan 25, 2014 02:28
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Hi guys, just a quick one cross-posted from the PC Building thread. I've tried to take as much info as possible in from this thread but all the model numbers and specifications I'm no longer up to date on are doing my head in. Would the Dell UltraSharp U2412M 24in be a suitable monitor for a gaming system that will also be used for a bit of photo editing, engineering drawing and SolidWorks/CAD modelling? They are currently marked down from ~$450AUD to $307AUD. A poster in the other thread mentioned that the anti-glare coating and pixel overdrive might be an issue? Any feedback would be appreciated, thanks..
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Jan 25, 2014 03:16
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The P2414H would probably be the better monitor, but I haven't used it or the ultrasharp. It has the same slightly less aggressive anti-glare of the U2713HM without the crosshatching. Also, the overshoot would be lower.
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Jan 25, 2014 03:30
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threeseven posted:Hi guys, just a quick one cross-posted from the PC Building thread. I've tried to take as much info as possible in from this thread but all the model numbers and specifications I'm no longer up to date on are doing my head in. Hello! I'll post my impression on the P2414H in a couple weeks (if Dell Mexico agrees to sell me poo poo), but I'll say that it's not like the U2412M is bad - at the time it was very good... just had some issues that two years later have been ironed out in newer Dell releases. It still has low input lag and good color reproduction, and if I'm not mistaken it's 1920x1200 which the newer Dells aren't, so it works very well for what you want it. Whether the issues it has are worth looking into other options and possibly spending more money to avoid are up to you. Personally, grainy matte coating is something I'd like to move away from because, well, crisper is better, so I'm willing to pay more money for that, but it's not a deal breaker. Overdrive overshoot, on the other hand, is something that I can see very easily and irks me to no loving end, and the P2414H made it into my list because it's comparable to implementations I've seen in person that I find agreeable (and also has a bit of a hack to disable it in the service menu).
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Jan 25, 2014 03:48
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Okay thanks, that makes a lot more sense now... I think for the extra $60 I'd be better off just getting the P2414H. EDIT: Actually, now I think about it - is it important to have HDMI on a monitor now? Can HDMI devices be adapted to work with monitors that don't have HDMI? I can't really think when I'd do it but it would be nice to have the option I guess. threeseven fucked around with this message at 05:11 on Jan 25, 2014 |
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Jan 25, 2014 04:45
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Gwaihir posted:That's actually LCD panel de-lamination, and it sucks :< And there's no way to repair it? 
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Jan 25, 2014 07:34
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threeseven posted:Okay thanks, that makes a lot more sense now... I think for the extra $60 I'd be better off just getting the P2414H. If it has a DVI port, then a HDMI-DVI cable is all you need and those are cheap and simple.
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Jan 25, 2014 16:38
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