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i'd go to micro center or amazon for dirt cheap cables that work fine, too, so it's a bit lol that the long requests resulted in a marginally different $30 cable that we paid shipping for
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Oct 5, 2021 17:01
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Chumbawumba4ever97 posted:Do you have any recommendation on an all-in-one multimeter (that reads volts, amps, resistance, etc that also detects bad caps?)? i have an Amprobe from the yellow and black days* that i love, as well as a couple of Fluke bench DMMs which are also great. Amprobe is still quality. However it's not a cap tester - for that, you have two paths really; a $29 LC meter from china, or a $299 name brand built-for-real-work one. Surprisingly enough, the former are plenty fine to ballpark capacitance and inductance. they've been shaking up the market for the expensive ones. hop on amazon or ebay and look up "LC meter" and see what looks good; im happy to endorse or shitcan any ones you find in particular *fluke sued everybody who made a yellow and black DMM so they all had to change colors or else customs would seize them as counterfeits 
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Oct 5, 2021 17:33
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Gentle Autist posted:i pushed some code at work today and brought down 3 major applications for about 6 hours. it made the news and stuff, quite major
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Oct 5, 2021 20:38
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Jonny 290 posted:i have an Amprobe from the yellow and black days* that i love, as well as a couple of Fluke bench DMMs which are also great. Amprobe is still quality. However it's not a cap tester - for that, you have two paths really; a $29 LC meter from china, or a $299 name brand built-for-real-work one. Surprisingly enough, the former are plenty fine to ballpark capacitance and inductance. they've been shaking up the market for the expensive ones. hop on amazon or ebay and look up "LC meter" and see what looks good; im happy to endorse or shitcan any ones you find in particular Thank you so much https://www.amazon.com/Proster-Mult...33467045&sr=8-8 https://www.amazon.com/UCTRONICS-Pr...33467101&sr=8-3 Of those two, which would you recommend? They visually look so wildly different that I can't make heads or tails over which one is the better choice.
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Oct 5, 2021 21:52
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Mr. Nice! posted:outlook 365 is driving me crazy. they have these dumb loving autosuggestions which i disabled because they are never what i want to type. even with the auto suggestions disabled, outlook still tries to fill in an extra word or two for me like so: just connect through thunderbird
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Oct 6, 2021 00:39
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Chumbawumba4ever97 posted:Thank you so much The second one can test _much_ smaller caps, it's rated down to 1 pF. that's the type of capacitor you'd see in like a UHF RF circuit. Both of them will test run of the mill electrolytics and most tantalums. If you're not super keyed up about measuring teeny tiny caps and inductors, the first is probably built a bit better.
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Oct 6, 2021 02:14
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I believe all my vintage Athlon motherboards are kaput from bad caps.
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Oct 6, 2021 06:48
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yeah, i remember around 2009 i tried firing up my old athlon x2 system, it would just power itself off after like a minute. opened it up and hell of bulging caps all over the motherboard. i filed a ticket with eVGA and they wound up having to offer me an LGA 775 board because they'd long since run out of their stock of socket 939 boards.
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Oct 6, 2021 07:54
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Jonny 290 posted:The second one can test _much_ smaller caps, it's rated down to 1 pF. that's the type of capacitor you'd see in like a UHF RF circuit. Both of them will test run of the mill electrolytics and most tantalums. If you're not super keyed up about measuring teeny tiny caps and inductors, the first is probably built a bit better. Thank you again. So you don't think there's any 1pF caps on this thing right (ignore the yellow circle)?  (Side question, would 1pF caps be on laptop motherboards? ) To your best guess, what do you think would cause this PSU to not work if not a bad cap? I replaced the burnt cap at c13 and the voltage regulator directly to the left of it (because it also appeared burnt; though the cap definitely was). All I get is a that high pitched squeal like when you plug something in, and then the squeal goes away and then comes back, then goes away, over and over. The caps lock lights go on and off while it's doing that. At least I know it's definitely the PSU but I just wish I knew what else I should be changing in here. It's such a shame to throw out such an old cool piece of computer history for something probably minor.
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Oct 6, 2021 12:12
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Suppose I find a shorted smd cap on a PCB. Could I just put a *kinda the same* cap back on? If I didn't know the capacitance, can I just wing it? I suppose I should figure the line voltage and match or better the breakdown... But the capacitance? Is there a trick of sorts to divining this? Edit: assume this is a power rail not some desense or a data line. Those caps never® blow. down1nit fucked around with this message at 00:33 on Oct 7, 2021 |
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Oct 7, 2021 00:26
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Chumbawumba4ever97 posted:Thank you again. So you don't think there's any 1pF caps on this thing right (ignore the yellow circle)? 1pf caps not even in play on that type of circuit unless they're tacked on to short spurious RFI to ground. They could maybe, like, maybe one in a thousand years, fail short and bring a + DC rail to ground, but that's just vanishingly rare. High pitched squeal indicates that the flyback transformer is working really hard. It could be a short on the output that is being periodically interrupted by a circuit breaker type circuit, or it could just be windings that blasted off the wax potting used to silence that poo poo and you can now hear it. the TLDR on how switching power supplies work: * AC comes in at 60 hertz (but we don't really care, you can actually feed switching PSUs with straight DC of the right voltage and they work fine) * a chopper circuit now cuts it in and out at anywhere from 400 hertz to like 20 KHz (this is the whine frequency) with varying duty cycle * a rectifier and regulator bring that back to DC land and give feedback to the other side as to whether it should increase or decrease the PWM duty cycle of the chopper circuit So, on failed switchers, the big points in question are the filter caps obviously, because any time you're turning a non-DC power source to DC, you have filter caps to smooth and buffer. and the second main point is a failed chip in the circuit that samples the output voltage and tells the front end PWM chopper to let more or less current through. down1nit posted:Suppose I find a shorted smd cap on a PCB. Could I just put a *kinda the same* cap back on? If I didn't know the capacitance, can I just wing it? Assuming it's a power rail, always go up, never go down. The risk of going up is that now that capacitor can store more energy, and may cause an inrush current while it initially charges that exceeds the limit of the input circuits. Resistors and caps are sold on "e tables" where there's a log function for what your values need to be. You'll probably recognize a lot of these numbers:  going up by one on the e12 table is no big deal. jumping a few may cause Problems. Jonny 290 fucked around with this message at 01:00 on Oct 7, 2021 |
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Oct 7, 2021 00:58
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anyone know if it's possible to get rid of the default cURL that comes with windows 10? it claims to have last been patched in 2019 and more importantly uses windows' built in SSL backend, which is missing some features compared to a build using openssl it's located in system32 and afaict I'm not allowed to delete it. system32 comes before most stuff in PATH and I'd rather not change that in case it breaks poo poo edit: i guess i can just rename mine kurl.exe Malloc Voidstar fucked around with this message at 01:45 on Oct 7, 2021 |
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Oct 7, 2021 01:33
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Jonny 290 posted:
loving what. That's awesome. I hadn't considered inrush cooking whatever is on the line, makes sense to stay within a step or so on that table. I imagine I rush kinda like a water hammer. Also it's slightly creepy that you got into my brain so easily and told me I would recognize those values, which I did. Thanks Mr Two Hundred Ninety.
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Oct 7, 2021 04:03
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Gentle Autist posted:i pushed some code at work today and brought down 3 major applications for about 6 hours. it made the news and stuff, quite major https://twitter.com/danhearty/status/1445667360803721227 make sure u bridge the gaps next time op
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Oct 7, 2021 05:37
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Bridge Over the River AS32934
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Oct 7, 2021 15:20
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Mr. Nice! posted:outlook 365 is driving me crazy. they have these dumb loving autosuggestions which i disabled because they are never what i want to type. even with the auto suggestions disabled, outlook still tries to fill in an extra word or two for me like so: i finally contacted microsoft customer support because i couldn't stand this any more. there is a box for 'show text predictions when typing' in a completely different option place than the autocomplete settings.
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Oct 12, 2021 13:03
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Is there a way to block promoted tweets on Twitter with Safari? I'm using 1blocker.
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Oct 18, 2021 16:13
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Jonny 290 posted:1pf caps not even in play on that type of circuit unless they're tacked on to short spurious RFI to ground. They could maybe, like, maybe one in a thousand years, fail short and bring a + DC rail to ground, but that's just vanishingly rare. I don't think it has anything to do with the CRT; it's a different high pitched squeal (I can tell the difference lol) It's definitely the power supply because the fan doesn't even spin. The most I get is a light on the motherboard and the caps lock light goes on. But it repeatedly just turns on and off. Here's all the things I have replaced in the PSU to no avail:  The replaced stuff is circled in blue (ignore the yellow circle). I bought the capacitor tester you recommended and those orange caps were giving me values in the 600mf range and it's a 470mf capacitor so I thought maybe that was a sign but replacing them did absolutely nothing. Is there anything else obvious I can try to replace? I'd hate to toss this cool old computer history device because of a bad PSU. It's absolutely spotless inside! It's a Compaq Portable II.
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Oct 18, 2021 18:38
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Chumbawumba4ever97 posted:I don't think it has anything to do with the CRT; it's a different high pitched squeal (I can tell the difference lol) well, what's it worth to you for to have one running? i wouldn't have done any of the repair work you've done without first checking to see if i could just source a working one. a quick glance on ebay and there's a compaq portable II 2650 and seems in much better shape that posts for $500? unless you're super attached to that particular one or it's too spendy i would just do that e: even better, there's this one that switches on, missing a keyboard, which you have: https://www.ebay.com/itm/203485749623?hash=item2f60b22177:g:amoAAOSwBatgvQeu#viTabs_0 that's what, ~200 and you're done Broken Machine fucked around with this message at 19:29 on Oct 18, 2021 |
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Oct 18, 2021 18:58
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Yeah it's for a friend's sick dad. It would have to be this exact machine (though I'd happily buy a working PSU if someone had one, which no one does, at least not on ebay).
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Oct 18, 2021 19:57
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Chumbawumba4ever97 posted:Yeah it's for a friend's sick dad. It would have to be this exact machine (though I'd happily buy a working PSU if someone had one, which no one does, at least not on ebay). you could always just pull the power supply from that one i linked? it works to switch it on, probably it's fine. that's roughly comparable with what a modern power supply would be anyways. otherwise maybe think about asking someone who services gear somewhat like this locally near you, and ask for help
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Oct 18, 2021 20:08
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Broken Machine posted:you could always just pull the power supply from that one i linked? it works to switch it on, probably it's fine. that's roughly comparable with what a modern power supply would be anyways. otherwise maybe think about asking someone who services gear somewhat like this locally near you, and ask for help I could try that. Miraculously there's a CRT repair guy near me. It sucks because I have all the tools I need; the $400 soldering iron, the $200 de-soldering iron, a million capacitors, a multimeter, a capacitor tester, only for me to bring it to some dude to fix it lol I am not even sure how I would find someone like that anyway though. What would I google? "Stereo repair in my area" or something?
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Oct 18, 2021 22:55
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or even just a good tv repair / service person or shop, small electronics repair etc. something like that. you want someone who has experience repairing power supplies, they should know how to fix it. it's going to be far easier for them to figure it out as they've done work like it many times. they might need parts, but i think most of that stuff should still be somewhat available. idk maybe someone here has more expertise about it; i'd just pick up that one w/o the kb on ebay and swap the parts from it as needed. plus then you'd have some spares for later. talking shop with some local repair person and learning that would be fun, too. def see why you might go that route instead / as well
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Oct 18, 2021 23:05
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This might help you diagnose what part of the circuit is not working: https://oldcrap.org/2018/02/04/compaq-portable-ii/ If all else fails, find a small power supply with these specs, wire it to the mainboard and junk the old one.
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Oct 18, 2021 23:25
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Yeah I saw that page but I have no idea how I could get something similar; it literally connects directly to the motherboard's edge connector like an NES cartridge or something. I feel like a huge failson! I should be able to fix this! 
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Oct 19, 2021 00:49
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You can buy them if you know the original mechanical specs. Search for “card edge connectors”. Or just solder to components attached to the same trace. Have you checked each rail with a voltmeter? That page notes it’s output only, so you should be able to plug it in and narrow down if it’s just 12v that’s pooched or if it’s everything. The more you know about what’s wrong, the easier it’s going to be to fix.
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Oct 19, 2021 01:55
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yippee cahier posted:You can buy them if you know the original mechanical specs. Search for “card edge connectors”. Or just solder to components attached to the same trace. The voltmeter check is a really good idea. I just turned it on to do that and a huge puff of smoke came up. R21 burnt up. It's a 22 ohm resistor if that uh, can somehow help figure out what's going wrong? No clue why it blew up today. The only thing I did different was replace the 440uF caps with new ones and I definitely didn't screw it up or anything. Also the thing was turned on and didn't smoke after I installed them! 
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Oct 19, 2021 20:44
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anyone here using outlook’s org explorer in the desktop app? I can’t find it but i think I’m using the correct kind of account (o365).
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Oct 20, 2021 01:19
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halp how do i diagnose low-level ethernet bullshit without $bignum of fluke poo poo i have one of those pcengines pfsense boards. i cannot get fuckall when trying to connect to my apartment's internet, which has ethernet wired to the units. ifconfig just reports no carrier when using the same cable that works fine for connecting other devices. connecting the same port to another router negotiates and obtains dhcp info fine, so it's something that happens with this wall port only i thought maybe there was an issue where the nics couldn't handle negotiating across either type of ethernet cable and i needed a crossover, but no difference with that is there any way to see the ethernet negotiation... packets? idk, whatever to figure out what's wrong (on FreeBSD, specifically), or is that locked inside the network driver? is there anything else i can try other than setting random manual modes?
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Oct 20, 2021 03:22
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CMYK BLYAT! posted:halp how do i diagnose low-level ethernet bullshit without $bignum of fluke poo poo You seem really interested in solving layer 2 without really validating layer 1. Do you get a link light when you plug a straight and/or crossover ethernet cable into a dumb hub or switch? if yes, do you also get link negotiation in the pfsense board port you're choosing to use? have you otherwise admin up'd the port? does it get a link light to a switch/hub? Let's make sure we have a good layer1/2 to start
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Oct 20, 2021 03:33
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$bignum of fluke will point out problems with the category spec of your cable, not Ethernet per se
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Oct 20, 2021 15:17
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i have a buddy who once had an issue with a network outlet in his house. turned out that it was just hosed up enough that his NIC would fail and report no connection when trying to negotiate up to 1gb, but would connect fine when he forced to it to a slower speed (can't remember if 100mb worked or if he had to slam it all the way down to 10mb) try manually setting the pfsense nic to 10mb and see if it connects
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Oct 21, 2021 00:34
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I think I figured out why I couldn’t Adblock promoted tweets. I had both 1blocker and wipr running. I thought they would combine and block more ads but apparently they just cancel each other out
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Oct 25, 2021 15:46
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do you know what specifically they target to do that? i tried to find a css hook for hiding elements but it's all random gibberish. i thought i was into something with the data attributes but they're too generic my best guess is new extensions could find the promoted marker and move up the dom to the right level, but that's js territory and i'm not sure which of the new ones add reliable greasemonkey-esque features. i also tried to hide all unselected interests to make it easier to quickly uncheck any new additions and ran into the same convoluted dom which seems especially excessive for a bunch of checkboxes
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Oct 25, 2021 15:58
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sorry no idea, just that my guess is it’s part of the extra scripts they run. I’m no engineer
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Oct 25, 2021 16:12
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1blocker is the one that’s working out for me btw
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Oct 25, 2021 16:13
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promoted tweets are back, fart. I don't know why it wasn't displaying them for a while. welp I'm still not going back to chrome
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Oct 26, 2021 00:51
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I’m looking for some kind of tool that can play back a series of keystrokes to windows by the touch of a hotkey, but also that the played back keystrokes are scripted we have to manually enter notes into our pharmacy software but 3/4 of the time there isn’t any real content, just leaving a note saying the patient came in and collected meds so i’d like to be able to press a hot key and then it produces code:
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Oct 28, 2021 20:25
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echinopsis posted:I’m looking for some kind of tool that can play back a series of keystrokes to windows by the touch of a hotkey, but also that the played back keystrokes are scripted AutoHotKey
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Oct 28, 2021 20:26
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thanks
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Oct 28, 2021 20:45
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