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Fart Pipe posted:What kind of IH? Seems you dont do PMs.   1972 1110 4x4 with an SV345, T18, NP205, Dana 60 rear and 44 front. Took it tailgating today which is always a blast. The flatbed is fantastic, just toss the grill right on there without regard for heat. I also checked the idle speed when I was screwing with the jets and it's really purring right along. Drove it down the freeway and it's tracking much better too, it doesn't take much to keep it straight anymore even though there's a bit of a dead spot. It had been slumbering before I bought it and it feels great to have it back in fighting shape. I'm not done yet, need to arch or replace the springs, replace rear shocks, run through the rear end bearings and brakes, but nothing life threatening.
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Oct 28, 2013 03:44
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Not much today. I did manage to clean up a few parts and got the head bolted down though. Quite funny going through 205gti forums though, pretty much no one does the official torque process, don't seem to like the french way. Do we have a thread for the wondrous products of France? Raikyn fucked around with this message at 10:09 on Oct 28, 2013 |
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Oct 28, 2013 10:07
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Finally got the "CHANGE OIL" thing on my dash. I've done one oil change on this car - bought it in January, changed it in March or April with Mobil 1. 8000 miles later, the GM oil life thing thinks conventional oil is ready to be changed. After 8000+ miles, the oil is very dark on the dipstick, but somehow, still right on the full mark.  I've never owned a car that didn't use at least some oil between oil changes.Picked up a 5 qt jug of Mobil 1 + an AC Delco filter at Walmart for $35 at WalMart. Going to change it today, and also send a sample to Blackstone. Curious what they'll find in it. Fucknag posted:Protip: If your car leaks oil, don't just let it go and decide you'll remember to top it up every gas tank, because you will eventually forget. That's exactly what killed my first Civic.... the second time. First time was hydrolock. The "OH gently caress" when the oil light pops on around 7000 rpm...... Pulled over, pulled the dipstick, nothing on it. Took 3 quarts to bring it back to the full mark (it held 3.8 with an oil filter change). Fired it back up... "why does my riced out Civic sound like a Cummings and have zero power now?  "Traded it plus some cash to a friend for a very nice 91 Integra that had front end damage and a cherry interior (needed a headlight and fender, otherwise looked brand new - fixed that for about $100 and an hour of work). The Civic opened new windows in the block within a few miles of him getting it. But he had a spare engine sitting in his garage, and knew it was hosed, and even with that, both of us still agree he got the better end of the deal. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 12:00 on Oct 28, 2013 |
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Oct 28, 2013 10:55
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Meet the newly adopted, DDT (Daily Driver Two): She came with a flatlined battery. Needed to jump it to get home, but it held a charge when I did. Figured I'd stick it on the oldschool 6A charger that I picked up for a few dollars on Saturday:  Since it's snowing, pretty much all ideas for today are on hold. Maybe I'll take the rear view mirror off and see if there is any simple way to strengthen the pivot without gluing it in place. It flops around about 1/2" in all directions when you hit a bump, and is quite annoying.
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Oct 28, 2013 15:56
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some texas redneck posted:The "OH gently caress" when the oil light pops on around 7000 rpm...... Ugh, you're giving me flashbacks to my sister's (recently laid-to-rest) Accord. I discovered she'd had an oil leak for some time when I was driving it one day, went to get on the highway and VTEC kicked in, and the car promptly fell on its own rear end; absolutely no power. Had to add about 3 quarts to fill it up, told her to check it with every tank and top off as needed. She didn't, of course. And eventually a slow leak developed into a fast leak. And then (I have no loving idea how) the camshaft of all things snapped and killed the motor. $1500 and a used JDM motor later she was back on the road, but a few weeks later the VTEC solenoid pissed all of the oil out on I-75. A friendly biker stopped and helped her slap it together with RTV, but it was never the same, and eventually it started leaking oil and driving "funny" again. She ditched it a few weeks ago for a '13 Focus, probably not the best financial move but if it gives her (and us) peace of mind I guess it's worth it.
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Oct 28, 2013 22:55
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I literally used the oil pressure warning light as a reminder to put oil in my 6th gen D series non vtec. It ran like that for 80,000km.
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Oct 28, 2013 23:04
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God drat poo poo piss gently caress Rented a belt tensioner tool from AutoZone. The tensioner is at just the right angle that no matter what angle I try, I can't quite get it to pop into the tensioner. Even tried pulling the fender liner, the headlight bucket, etc. I can pop it in from above behind the motor mount, but then I hit the cowl. Upper radiator support just baaaarely keeps it from popping in from another angle, subframe blocks it from below. If the head of this tool was turned 45 degrees, I'd be done. The extension it came with can be attached at any angle you please, but it's a 1/2" drive extension (I need 3/8"), so I couldn't use that either. I thought about cutting the belt, but then I'd have no way to lift the tensioner enough to get the new belt on. I even thought about removing the tensioner (there's a hole in the inner fender to get to the bolt on it), but I'm still facing the same issue. Need to track down a different belt tensioner tool I guess. e: looked on Harbor Freight, their version is the exact same tool, right down to the case. On Amazon, to get one with an adjustable 3/8" drive extension, I'm looking at at least $50. Guess I'll see if the DIY garage has an adjustable one on hand; if they do, then renting a bay will be more than worth it. Need to do an oil change anyway. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 04:34 on Oct 29, 2013 |
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Oct 29, 2013 04:22
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West SAAB Story posted:Since it's snowing, pretty much all ideas for today are on hold. Maybe I'll take the rear view mirror off and see if there is any simple way to strengthen the pivot without gluing it in place. It flops around about 1/2" in all directions when you hit a bump, and is quite annoying.
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Oct 29, 2013 04:33
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I got the front windows tinted to match the rears and a pretty expensive remote start. I got a Code Alarm ca5553sst installed which has a mile range, i was looking at a similar Viper which had some lovely reviews so i went with the Code Alarm instead.
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Oct 29, 2013 05:12
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I discovered that the thermo fans on the Niva were kicking way too high for some reason. I mean like 120*C. Not sure why. Guesstimated and adjusted down a bit. Also accidentally drove it up the pile of old beams and planks in the yard because they were hidden in grass and I was a little off about where they were. It didn't give a single poo poo and probably would have climbed on over and through the steel fence if I'd let it.
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Oct 29, 2013 06:07
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some texas redneck posted:God drat poo poo piss gently caress Is there a square hole on the tensioner arm? Just put a ratcheting socket driver in there 
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Oct 29, 2013 06:18
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Previous owner of my TS turned a paper clip into a ghetto tension spring around the balljoint on the rear view mirror stalk and that seems to retain it pretty well. Huh. I was actually eyeballing some picture hanging wire that I have, but I haven't done a real Ghetto job (other than diagnosis) since I stopped buying Ford. Right now I'm trying to decide if it is worth it to crack the mirror open, since it appears to have the functional autodim feature which was sadly not available on my LPT. I am pleased to find others admitting to rednecking their poo poo.. even if it was done by a PO. 
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Oct 29, 2013 06:20
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EightBit posted:Is there a square hole on the tensioner arm? Just put a ratcheting socket driver in there There is - but there's not enough space to get a ratchet in. There's maybe an inch between the tensioner and the strut tower (which is still far more than I had on the Nissan). The super slim tensioner tool barely fits in the space - and since it's not ratcheting or adjustable (aside from the adjustable extension, but that has a 1/2" drive on it; the hole is 3/8), I can't quite get it into the hole. Upper radiator support and passenger side motor mount both block the easiest ways (from opposite extremes), cowl blocks the 2nd easiest, subframe blocks the "gently caress you" way. If the tensioner tool is against the radiator support, it almost goes in. I think this is more because the belt is ancient and stretched a bit. Decent (aka $$$) tensioner tools have an adjustable extension that can handle a 3/8 drive tensioner, but the loan a tool tensioner tool at AutoZone does not. I went so far as to remove the passenger side headlight and bucket, thinking maybe being able to go in through the headlight opening would let it line up. It wound up being about 5 degrees off.. about the same as if it were hitting the upper radiator support, just from the opposite side.  Talked to someone with a similar car about it, they mentioned they had to drop the subframe. I'd rather just track down someone with an adjustable 3/8" tensioner tool instead of doing that, if at all possible. I don't want to drop a subframe when all I have is a couple of scissor jacks, a jackstand, and a steep driveway... randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:59 on Oct 29, 2013 |
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Oct 29, 2013 08:15
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some texas redneck posted:There is - but there's not enough space to get a ratchet in. There's maybe an inch between the tensioner and the strut tower (which is still far more than I had on the Nissan). Or buy/borrow a 1/2" drive ratchet, T handle or breaker bar? You're going to want a larger tool at some point. It will be cheaper than buying a decent tensioner for sure, and you'll use it again.
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Oct 29, 2013 14:49
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He needs a 3/8" drive for this not a 1/2" and the problem is that a ratchet won't fit in the space available...
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Oct 29, 2013 14:59
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Could you get a 1/2" to 3/8" drive adapter down in there? If so you can maybe put it in, then use vise-grips to twist.
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Oct 29, 2013 15:41
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kastein posted:He needs a 3/8" drive for this not a 1/2" and the problem is that a ratchet won't fit in the space available... I must not understand this: quote:If the head of this tool was turned 45 degrees, I'd be done. The extension it came with can be attached at any angle you please, but it's a 1/2" drive extension (I need 3/8"), so I couldn't use that either.
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Oct 29, 2013 18:33
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I understood that instantly but probably because I have the same drat tool and have been cockblocked by the same problem. The basic tool has a 3/8 squaredrive on it, the extension (which has what amounts to a double-square hole in one end so you can put the extension onto the main tool at any increment of 45 degrees) has a 1/2 squaredrive on it. So you can either have a 3/8 squaredrive that fits the tensioner (but is at a funky angle and won't go into it) or a 1/2 squaredrive you can adjust by any multiple of 45 degrees, but won't fit into the drat tensioner. And there isn't enough space ( transverse engine) to get an adapter on it, unfortunately, that'd stack up to be taller than just using a ratchet which also won't fit.One of the major reasons I dislike tightly packaged engine compartments.
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Oct 29, 2013 18:45
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Got 66% of the thankfully-not-driving-during-winter-this-year cars winterized. I'm hoping the sun comes out today at some point so I can do the other one without the goddamn slush freezing my limbs off.  Still need to go hit the DMV and deal with the lost plates from the accident and get a permit to get the Aero smogged so I can stand in line yet again.. 
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Oct 29, 2013 18:53
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some texas redneck posted:God drat poo poo piss gently caress OK - StormDrain fucked around with this message at 21:28 on Oct 29, 2013 |
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Oct 29, 2013 21:14
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Basic health check on the Niva. Needed some coolant and oil. Checked the spark plugs while the oil was draining down. Best results yet. Nice grey ceramic. Some crusties on the lip of the thread. All the threads were oily too. These plugs are hotter range because of the oil issue. What I'm guessing is that the stem seals aren't all they could be, but everything seems to be happy so it's good for now. The oil can stay as is for the moment. I don't have any OHC valve tools except the spark plug adapter thing for compressed air which is pretty universal I'd imagine.
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Oct 29, 2013 21:39
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StormDrain posted:OK - some texas redneck posted:God drat poo poo piss gently caress My Saab with the ecotec was the same deal. I was stumped until a buddy that never even saw it mentioned using a 3/8" breaker bar which I just happened to have and never use. Its a good deal thinner than a ratchet. It fit with maybe a 1/64 of clearance to the frame rail and just enough room to swing and move the tensioner. I think actaully moving the break bar itself may have involved a stick or jack handle. Guy Random fucked around with this message at 02:13 on Oct 30, 2013 |
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Oct 30, 2013 02:10
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Guy Random posted:My Saab with the ecotec was the same deal. I was stumped until a buddy that never even saw it mentioned using a 3/8" breaker bar which I just happened to have and never use. Its a good deal thinner than a ratchet. It fit with maybe a 1/64 of clearance to the frame rail and just enough room to swing and move the tensioner. I think actaully moving the break bar itself may have involved a stick or jack handle. Worth a shot, but STR keep in mind that if the square drive is oriented the same way relative to the bar you'll have the same issue.
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Oct 30, 2013 02:14
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Fucknag posted:Worth a shot, but STR keep in mind that if the square drive is oriented the same way relative to the bar you'll have the same issue. Already tried this, and yeah, same issue. Honestly, if I just had a second set of hands, someone could hulk the tensioner up enough to get the tool into it. I was able to lift it (with a lot of swearing) with a pry bar, but as soon as I'd take one hand off of the pry bar to try and put the tool in, it'd slip back down. kastein posted:I understood that instantly but probably because I have the same drat tool and have been cockblocked by the same problem. The basic tool has a 3/8 squaredrive on it, the extension (which has what amounts to a double-square hole in one end so you can put the extension onto the main tool at any increment of 45 degrees) has a 1/2 squaredrive on it. So you can either have a 3/8 squaredrive that fits the tensioner (but is at a funky angle and won't go into it) or a 1/2 squaredrive you can adjust by any multiple of 45 degrees, but won't fit into the drat tensioner. And there isn't enough space ( Nailed it. Also, this isn't a tight engine bay at all compared to the Altima - the belts on the Altima would barely fit (sideways) between the idler pulley and strut tower. Changing the idler pulley on that drat thing required removing a motor mount and lifting the engine several inches. I did find some adjustable 3/8 tensioner tools on Amazon, but $50 for a tool that I'm going to use maybe once every 5 years? I'm going to swing by the DIY garage tomorrow. $23 to rent a lift for an hour, and they claim to rent serpentine belt tools for $5, plus $5 in "cleaning and supply fees". We'll see if it's a decent adjustable one, if it is I'll rent a bay for an hour and also knock out my oil change while I'm at it. It'll still be cheaper than paying a shop for a synthetic oil change alone, and I won't have to deal with getting rid of the used oil and filter. StormDrain posted:OK -  thought about that too. I can actually engage the tool in the tensioner from the other side of the mount, but then it hits the cowl. 
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Oct 30, 2013 07:27
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Is there room for a 3/8->1/2" adapter to slot into the tensioner hole and then put a shifter onto the adapter?
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Oct 30, 2013 12:01
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Ferremit posted:Is there room for a 3/8->1/2" adapter to slot into the tensioner hole and then put a shifter onto the adapter? This is how we know you didn't fully read at least one, possibly two posts from this discussion. 
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Oct 30, 2013 15:31
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some texas redneck posted:
What if you pull the mount and jack the motor up a few inches, perhaps THEN you could get it above the radiator support.
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Oct 30, 2013 18:37
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Accidentally ran over the kids' fitness trampoline thing with it. Only bent and broke half the legs before I stopped. I can fix it but still  Not my proudest moment.
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Oct 30, 2013 20:02
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General_Failure posted:Accidentally ran over the kids' fitness trampoline thing with it. Only bent and broke half the legs before I stopped. I can fix it but still 
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Oct 30, 2013 20:27
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Falken posted:My dad ran over my metal Tonka dump truck with a Land Rover Defender when I was 3. Whoops. Such a shame. The metal Tonkas are the best. I straightened the legs as best I could although the bases of them need welding. The trampoline ended up with one end neatly touching the ground. I knew if I didn't at least straighten it I'd have a couple of kids trying to launch diagonally with it. It's what I would have done anyway. So, this morning I got up extra early to try and work on getting rid of all this extra weight especially after some bad news from the doctor yesterday. The freewheel on my bike is binding something shocking making it unrideable so I set about dismantling the rear axle assembly. Oh god so many ball bearings! And everything coated in a weird substance that smells like old waterproof canvas which I think was grease about a decade ago. Cars and other machinery I can do no problem, but this poo poo is alien to me. I'm going to head over to YLLS to see if a bike person can tell me wtf I'm looking at.
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Oct 30, 2013 21:04
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Don't make excuses, leave the bike where it is and go for a jog 
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Oct 30, 2013 21:28
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Astonishing Wang posted:Don't make excuses, leave the bike where it is and go for a jog I can't. My body is pretty hosed, but I can do a fast walk all day if given a chance.
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Oct 30, 2013 21:38
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Falken posted:My dad ran over my metal Tonka dump truck with a Land Rover Defender when I was 3. My dad ran over my school woodwork project milk bottle holder  when I was 13.It was a mercy killing (or more likely out of shame). I am poo poo at woodwork
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Oct 30, 2013 23:14
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Had a flat in the E55. Ooh, the toolkit comes with fancy-rear end white gloves! Also, the spare is an 18" alloy, and the tire unfolds its sidewall when you inflate it, ending up with the tread protruding a good 2" out from the wheel. Looks weird. 
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Oct 30, 2013 23:24
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Got the paperwork taken care of and a moving permit. Now, just need to get it smogged and tagged. drat I hate standing in line at the DMV.
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Oct 31, 2013 00:03
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I decided to give Plasti-Dip a try. My first attempt to be on my well weathered coil covers:  Still waiting to see how well this stuff cures/dries. The only place I can do this is out in my unheated garage, and it's been around 45-50°F for the past few days.
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Oct 31, 2013 05:33
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Geoj posted:Spent about 20% of my paycheck on brake parts for my wife's car. This was delivered today and installed. I'm really liking the Centric pads, they have a hard initial bite and really respond well to hard braking. Zero fade even after 5 crash stops from 40 MPH and 3 from 60 while I was bedding them in. Annoyingly, even after using a power bleeder there's still an air pocket somewhere in the system as the pedal is a bit mushy. I'll have to bleed it again in a few days after (hopefully) the bubble works its way into a caliper.
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Oct 31, 2013 07:01
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I spent the evening delving into the mysteries of this switch panel mounted in the overhead console of my F350. Where do the wires go? What do they do? Why do my fog lights not work?  The "indirect lights" turns on LED rope lights all around the center and overhead consoles, above the doors, etc. That's pretty cool. But the rest don't do anything. So I followed the bundle of wires back down the A-pillar and under the dash, and...a wild fusebox appears!  Had no idea that was tucked in under there. It's actually a really nice job. I was expecting some horrible hacked harness, but this has proper connectors everywhere and its own run to the battery (with an inline 30 amp fuse on the fender). It can't have been cheap. All the same, there's no indication what fuse does what, so I started pulling them and found that 15 amp fuse was blown. I replaced it, and voila, I have fog lights again. Well, I have one. The other obviously got water in it and rusted out, which probably caused the short that blew the fuse. Still, that's an easy fix. The wire bundle runs from the fuse box backwards under the carpet along the transmission tunnel. I don't know where it goes from there, but I'd sure like to. I want to wire up a pair of 55W halogens under the rear bumper for more light when backing up my camper in the dark, and one of those switches would be ideal. Presumably the whole thing goes through the floor of the cab somewhere. saint gerald fucked around with this message at 14:45 on Oct 31, 2013 |
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Oct 31, 2013 14:35
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Puddin posted:Turning a corner I've turned like 5 billion times, and hit a gutter at about 20km and hosed up my steering. Too dark to check it out, but it drives true just with the wheel slightly off centre to the right. I did the same thing at night in the rain, man. Time for an alignment and hope you didn't irreparably bend the suspension.
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Oct 31, 2013 18:37
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Root Bear posted:
I'm interested in the follow up on this, I've never thought of using this stuff on plastics like the engine cover
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