|
Tomarse posted:I already have one of those for insulated crimps, but I would also love a ratcheting crimper for the non insulated terminals like these: There is some sort of ratcheting crimper for basically every connector. I have a Daniels HX4 I use for crimps of that style, but thats a very expensive tool for every day use. (Unless you buy them on eBay where I got mine for like $40 in 2009) That said, you need to be lucky enough to find the right die set. What is that terminal called? EDIT: This may work and is like $30. http://www.electricscooterparts.com/crimpconnectors.html
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2014 02:10
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 3, 2024 20:52 |
|
|
Tommychu posted:I use these for crimping: Quoting this because these are the best general automotive crimpers I have used.
|
|
#
?
Oct 3, 2014 02:56
|
|
|
I am looking at a new diagnostic tool to do more functions than my blue tooth reader is capable of doing. I am looking at the Autel MD802 all systems model. Doing some googling and it says that it can do body and chassis codes, which would be helpful for my Suburban which has an auto ride control issue (im betting a compressor). Plus it would be helpful if it could do Land Rover poo poo as well. Any one have one or know of a person using one? Plus I am a complete goober for diagnostic poo poo.
|
|
#
?
Oct 6, 2014 01:25
|
|
|
BrokenKnucklez posted:I am looking at a new diagnostic tool to do more functions than my blue tooth reader is capable of doing. I am looking at the Autel MD802 all systems model. Doing some googling and it says that it can do body and chassis codes, which would be helpful for my Suburban which has an auto ride control issue (im betting a compressor). I just bought a 619 from them to pull ABS codes from the D2.  Hell yeah LR ABS codes for $115. I don't know how the ABS Amigo guys and other are gonna stay in business once people know better. It can also command diagnostic tests like EVAP) on stuff (worked on a Ford and a GM, not on the LR). You just need to deal with a lovely Chinesium scanner that requires you to pull a microSD out and put it into a windows machine to get updates. Generally I'm pretty happy with it. Of that one does more than the 619 it's probably a good deal. Or just get the 619 if that's all you need.
|
|
#
?
Oct 6, 2014 02:00
|
|
|
Milwaukee m12 rotary tool, great purchase. Not sure how I got this far in life without one. Also, not directly related, Milwaukee warranty is awesome. Mailed a drill with a burnt out switch late on Saturday, got it back next Friday. I was expecting 2 weeks minimum.
|
|
#
?
Oct 8, 2014 02:10
|
|
|
Was at Lowe's with a friend today and ended up grabbing this Porter Cable 20V drill/impact driver combo. Can't wait to put those bad boys to use! Definitely my nicest tool purchase so far.
|
|
#
?
Oct 15, 2014 02:49
|
|
|
 Finally a real tool chest. All ball bearing slides and its well built. Its not snap on or matco but its good enough for me. Plus its expandable with a top and side cabinet. Figured this should last a while. (I also hope I didn't break the table with my image... Still getting the hang of my app)
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2014 06:32
|
|
|
It's awesome to buy a tool and realize how much better it is than what you were using before. I bought these 8" crimping pliers to replace my stamped steel 'do it all' tool. It makes WAAAAAAY better crimps and I don't have to hold the two halves together to make it crimp straight. Now instead of the one tool I'm using two, but each is at least 100% better at the job it's designed for than the tool that's supposed to strip and crimp.
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2014 16:15
|
|
|
Myself and my old man are looking at buying a cheap(ish) welder to work on our POS cars with. We are looking at two: Sealey SUPERMIG130 MiniMIG Welder 130Amp 230V http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/150836175765 Clarke 135TE MIG Welder https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/135te-turbo-mig-welder Any thoughts? We aren't looking to make sweet tuna race manifolds but it needs to be able to cope with bodywork stuff. we are leaning towards the more expensive Clarke, especially as Machine Mart has a VAT free day on Sunday so that would be 20% off.
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2014 20:58
|
|
|
stump posted:Myself and my old man are looking at buying a cheap(ish) welder to work on our POS cars with.
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2014 22:16
|
|
|
InitialDave posted:I have a Clarke MIG (the 151), and I have to say, it works just fine for all DIY purposes. Cheers, that one looks like a decent buy at 20 more than the 135.
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2014 22:57
|
|
|
I've been using an old kitchen table I
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2014 04:53
|
|
|
Do you have a saw and a drill/driver? I built one in half a day from online plans. The wood was ~$70cad. I used this as a guide: http://www.familyhandyman.com/topics/device/mobile/t/57561330/how-to-build-a-workbench-super-simple-50-bench.htm
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2014 05:14
|
|
|
Rhyno posted:I've been using an old kitchen table I Yeah definitely build-your-own... download Google Sketchup, spend an hour watching the tutorials, followed by a few hours designing your own bench. At the end add up how many board-feet you used in Sketchup and go build that poo poo. Years ago I did this when my folks asked me to build a cutesy picket fence/arbor in the front yard, and it was super easy and practical. Knowing exactly how much wood I needed, and having printouts of my 3D model to scrawl dimensions on was a whole new revelation for people like myself, who usually just charge out with a hammer and some nails. Sketchup is the easiest software in the goddamn world so don't be afraid of it just because it's X, Y and Z dimensions. Your social relationships are like a billion times more complicated/hard, so no exuses 
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2014 05:35
|
|
|
As someone who works with CAD programs all day, I used Sketchup for about five minutes once before giving up in complete frustration. I should see if it got better in the years since I last tried it, but I know I'll quickly hit upon wanting to do something that I take for granted in a full fledged program.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2014 05:45
|
|
|
I don't have a saw but Lowes does the first 10 cuts free.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2014 06:26
|
|
|
I bought a cheap Skill branded saw for 35 bucks at Lowes. No excuse not to own one. It's taken some abuse and has held up.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2014 07:46
|
|
|
Uthor posted:As someone who works with CAD programs all day, I used Sketchup for about five minutes once before giving up in complete frustration. I should see if it got better in the years since I last tried it, but I know I'll quickly hit upon wanting to do something that I take for granted in a full fledged program. Yeah, I know what you mean - after many years of Photoshop work, I uninstalled GIMP about twenty minutes in when I needed to do something on a work computer that had no photo editing software. Everything was completely unintuitive and I couldn't figure out how to do the most basic of tasks. However, any attempts I've ever made at working in Autocad/etc went to waste, whereas Sketchup was basic enough that I could lay out some 3D models really easily. BrokenKnucklez posted:I bought a cheap Skill branded saw for 35 bucks at Lowes. No excuse not to own one. It's taken some abuse and has held up. Yep... buy a cheap circular saw, a cheap electric drill and go to town. If you want to get fancy add a miter saw so you can cut 45deg angles easily on your 2x4s, and you've got everything you need to build a bench. The Royal Nonesuch fucked around with this message at 08:11 on Oct 17, 2014 |
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2014 08:03
|
|
|
stump posted:Myself and my old man are looking at buying a cheap(ish) welder to work on our POS cars with. I've got the clarke unit (or the older version) Have had it for about 10-15 years and it still does the job. I tend to mainly tig and stick but I still bring it out occasionally for vehicle stuff in difficult to get at spots. I find the wire feed resistor a little bit easy to accidentaly knock out of setting but other than that I can't really complain. I wouldn't mind a better torch, but I understand you can modify them to take a euro type if you are so inclined.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2014 09:49
|
|
|
Rhyno posted:I've been using an old kitchen table I You can find all sorts of workbench plans online, but the most important thing is the top. My favorite ways to make a sturdy as gently caress benchtop are: Solid Door. A new solid core door from Home Depot, etc. runs about $60. Check out any architectural salvage yards for old doors though. These make awesome benchtops because they are heavy as gently caress, and you can mount a vise etc. right on that bitch. Plywood. Lots of people double up 3/4" plywood for a top. I'd stick with the top-end birch plywood for this, which can get expensive. 2x4 Top - Get a stack of 2x4s where the total of the "2x" dimension equals the top's width (e.g., for a 3'x6' top, you'd need about 24 of them). Cut them to your preferred length (e.g., if your going for a 3'x6' top, cut them to 6'). Then glue them up along the "x4" face. You can use pipe clamps for the glue up. If you have a steady hand or drill press, you can mark off spots and drill them to fit some threaded rod (like 3/8" or 1/2") and use some nuts/washers to add some mechanical strength and clamping pressure. Once the glue has cured, plane it down to level the surface. If you have a joiner, you could square of the top faces before assembling the top to get a flush surface. If you plan to do a lot of woodworking on it, you can pre-cut a couple of layers to leave gaps that become square holes for bench dogs, etc. Another way to do both level AND make the top flush is to add a slight lip around the edge with some 1x lumber, or 1/16" thick steel bar and then pour an epoxy top. No bench-dogs if you go this route, unless you drill some out later and use 3/4" round dogs (I think Rockler has a full line of these) I also like to use a 2x6 or 2x8 for the front edge, to provide more space on the front face to mount a vise, etc. Once you have the top, you can build the chassis all sorts of ways. Plywood boxes can hold shelves, etc for storage. Or you can rig up legs from more 2x or 4x lumber. Either way, you want to cross brace the support at the bottom, instead of just having table legs, to solidify the whole thing.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2014 16:53
|
|
|
The Royal Nonesuch posted:Yeah, I know what you mean - after many years of Photoshop work, I uninstalled GIMP about twenty minutes in when I needed to do something on a work computer that had no photo editing software. Everything was completely unintuitive and I couldn't figure out how to do the most basic of tasks. However, any attempts I've ever made at working in Autocad/etc went to waste, whereas Sketchup was basic enough that I could lay out some 3D models really easily. For shop furniture, you can use a speed square to get the 45 degree angles. Protip - nevermind, I am an idiot. Tamir Lenk fucked around with this message at 23:24 on Oct 17, 2014 |
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2014 17:00
|
|
|
Tamir Lenk posted:For shop furniture, you can use a speed square to get the 45 degree angles. Protip - try to make both angles from one plank in one cut. For instance, if you plan to end up with a 2' L shape, stat with a board that's >4' and cut the 45 in middle. When you rotate the pieces to make the L, the angles will match perfectly, even if you actually cut them a degree or two off, because because the pieces end up 44/46 instead of 45/45, and will always total out to 90 degrees. No, both pieces will be cut at 44 degrees(or 46) because you rotated one, this will end up with an 88 or 92 degree corner.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2014 22:45
|
|
|
Cakefool posted:No, both pieces will be cut at 44 degrees(or 46) because you rotated one, this will end up with an 88 or 92 degree corner. Oh poo poo. I hosed that up in my head. Was thinking of a different gimmick for matching mitres - e.g., doing one cut with the boards clamped at 90 degrees or maybe usuing a sliding 90-degree fence and flipping sides. Edit: This is what I was thinking of . . vaguely:  Tamir Lenk fucked around with this message at 23:30 on Oct 17, 2014 |
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2014 23:23
|
|
|
I may have found a 100% free new work bench. We're junking some huge shelves at work and I can probably cut the 20 foot tall corner beams down into a usable size for bench legs.
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2014 03:55
|
|
|
Rhyno posted:I've been using an old kitchen table I I would suggest building your own as others have. I would also suggest using a torsion box design. Here is my 8'x2' bench covered in crap:  The legs are made with three torsion boxes and the back lower support is the fourth torsion box. The bench is incredibly stiff since the legs and back are grids of 2x4s glued to 3/8" plywood skins. The material list consists of 2x4s, 3/8" plywood for the skins, and 3/4" plywood for the top. I did laminate two good one side 3/4" plywood sheets together for the top. I just had home depot rip a 4x8 sheet in half length wise and used those two pieces. When beating on something in the 8" vise on the right of the bench, the whole bench will move before it flexes in any way. If there is interest, I will put up my plans for the bench.
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2014 05:52
|
|
|
Whatever you do, make it so you use a 1/2 or 3/4 sheet of something as the top surface. Then beat the poo poo out of it for a couple years once it's good and used up, rip the old top layer off, stick another on, and away you go again. Nonreplaceable wear surfaces are the devil.
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2014 05:56
|
|
|
ZincBoy posted:I would suggest building your own as others have. I would also suggest using a torsion box design. This will cost me roughly zero dollars and the shelves are pretty drat strong. I'll snap a pic tomorrow.
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2014 05:57
|
|
|
kastein posted:Nonreplaceable wear surfaces are the devil. Counterpoint: One of the benches at work has been there and used every day since 1977 when the building was built, and has a non-replaceable wear surface it's 5/8" plate also, repurposing old lovely junk is what I'm all about, I vote go with the shelving Rhyno. Turbo Fondant fucked around with this message at 06:11 on Oct 18, 2014 |
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2014 06:07
|
|
|
kastein posted:Whatever you do, make it so you use a 1/2 or 3/4 sheet of something as the top surface. Then beat the poo poo out of it for a couple years once it's good and used up, rip the old top layer off, stick another on, and away you go again. Nonreplaceable wear surfaces are the devil. I did this but with another layer of 1/8" luan nailed on top. Nice smooth surface that's easy and dirt cheap to replace. Plus, if I REALLY gently caress it up, I can rip the plywood off, too.
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2014 07:30
|
|
|
stump posted:Cheers, that one looks like a decent buy at 20 more than the 135. Or you could get the 151EN which is 50 cheaper than the 151TE but seems to have the same specs. It is sold as a 'no-gas' model but will do gas you just need to buy a regulator and swap the polarity over and fit proper wire rather than fluxcore. Buy the 151EN then find a shop that will sell you a pub gas co2 bottle and regulator. I've had 2 151EN's now (my first one got stolen). Well impressed with it. It is better than the old snap-on/cebora one I had before! https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/mig151en-turbo-no-gas-mig-welder If you shop around you can possibly find it for less than machinemart sell it for too. Tomarse fucked around with this message at 17:41 on Oct 18, 2014 |
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2014 17:39
|
|
|
Uthor posted:As someone who works with CAD programs all day, I used Sketchup for about five minutes once before giving up in complete frustration. I should see if it got better in the years since I last tried it, but I know I'll quickly hit upon wanting to do something that I take for granted in a full fledged program. Seconding this - years ago I worked at a lumber mill running a 3-axis CNC router using autoCAD for layout and despite not having done any serious CAD work in over a decade sketchup was a festering pile of poo poo when I tried to use it recently.
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2014 02:16
|
|
|
Thirding, sketchup is total poo poo, it is too bad all real CAD apps are like five or six figures. Unless you are willing to put up with linux neckbeard CAD which is a festival of failure and stupidity.
|
|
#
?
Oct 21, 2014 02:08
|
|
|
For just 2D stuff LibreCAD isn't bad: http://librecad.org/cms/home.html It has the features of Autodesk circa 1990, but that's not really a bad thing IMHO.
|
|
#
?
Oct 21, 2014 02:54
|
|
|
It suffers from the same problem as the rest of open source software, namely, a core group of idiot savants hack on a piece of software until it becomes just barely usable to them. They are now the experts in that software, so "usability" means that it doesn't actively harm the user.
|
|
#
?
Oct 21, 2014 03:00
|
|
|
mod sassinator posted:For just 2D stuff LibreCAD isn't bad: http://librecad.org/cms/home.html It has the features of Autodesk circa 1990, but that's not really a bad thing IMHO. Thank you for this, I miss Autocad 10. Now if I can only find an old digitizer.
|
|
#
?
Oct 21, 2014 04:01
|
|
|
Tool people. Recommend me a stud welder and slide hammer. I'd rather go with a mig addon than a separate welder thing, but I'd like a good slide hammer vs the harbor freight one which doesnt use a standard end size.
|
|
#
?
Oct 21, 2014 19:59
|
|
|
Slow is Fast posted:Tool people. Go Mac for the slide hammer.
|
|
#
?
Oct 21, 2014 22:22
|
|
|
kastein posted:Thirding, sketchup is total poo poo, it is too bad all real CAD apps are like five or six figures. Unless you are willing to put up with linux neckbeard CAD which is a festival of failure and stupidity. I use Geomagic Design (was Alibre) and it is quite nice. Not quite Solidworks class for large designs but very usable. I have put together designs with a few thousand parts and it worked okay. It is really for 3d work with full parametric and hierarchical design capability. 2d capabilities are not the greatest but they do the job. There is a personal version for $200 that is just missing some features. No restrictions on model size, just missing the sheet metal module, multi part config, and import/export options.
|
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2014 01:16
|
|
|
e: anybody who uses CAD shouldn't go anywhere near Sketchup. It's awful at being a CAD program. It's the tits for woodworking and metal fab, not so much for machining or anything else traditionally CAD.Slow is Fast posted:Tool people. The MIG stud weld adapter things that slip over the nozzle are pretty mediocre if you're going to do a lot of work. Standalone guns make a way smaller weld thats a lot easier to grind. If you do get a mig kit, the eastwood one is good, but the slide hammer sucks (the slide hammer always sucks).
|
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2014 01:20
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 3, 2024 20:52 |
|
|
Dassault also has draftsight: http://www.3ds.com/products-services/draftsight/download-draftsight/ We actually use it at work for 2D stuff.
|
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2014 01:57
|
|