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BMan posted:It's not squished enough, I can see through the cracks Yeah, I moved the z offset down to .10. I think I changed it because I thought it might be smushing the prints. I’m hoping that might make a difference. Edit: It is still moving, but it kind of self corrected and now isn’t moving and I think the excess string will get covered over. Still I just wish it would stick in the first place. lol  Well I’ll check back in an hour or so to see the final results and then post it. Thank you everyone for all the help. My apologies if I skipped a post, I am reading them all though. Marshal Prolapse fucked around with this message at 03:53 on Oct 8, 2022 |
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Oct 8, 2022 03:50
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You need this poster: https://i.imgur.com/hIcGr8U.png As noted, your print head is to far from the bed. Still a bit to far, or, underextruding. But once "more print" happens, we'll be able to tell the rest. When I said print a benchy, I was quite serious about it. https://www.3dbenchy.com/download/ Nerobro fucked around with this message at 03:56 on Oct 8, 2022 |
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Oct 8, 2022 03:53
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Nerobro posted:You need this poster: https://i.imgur.com/hIcGr8U.png Yeah, part of the problem is the Creality software on the unit switched from my newer setting for z offset back to the older number. I think I fixed that…I think. Edit: nope switches back the minute I hit the start/play button. I am lost. Edit: I got it to .15 so let’s she how that works. Marshal Prolapse fucked around with this message at 04:01 on Oct 8, 2022 |
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Oct 8, 2022 03:57
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First: BUUUT AUTO BED leveling is ESSENTIAL *rollseyes* There's no problems with ABL. If there's problems with ABL it's "all you" .. that wasn't for you Marshal Prolapse. That was for about 1/3 of the people in the thread. Marshal Prolapse posted:Yeah, part of the problem is the Creality software on the unit switched from my newer setting for z offset back to the older number. I think I fixed that…I think. You might need to put that offset into your start g-code. Or it MIGHT be in the start g-code and it's overwriting what you have there. I'd check your g-code, as that is the simplest answer.
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Oct 8, 2022 04:02
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Marshal Prolapse posted:Yeah, part of the problem is the Creality software on the unit switched from my newer setting for z offset back to the older number. I think I fixed that…I think. Since you mentioned .10 and .15 only--if you can only move it by .05 at a time, you have old firmware and probably should upgrade to 1.0.13, especially if you want their latest ABL stuff (which works great on both of mine). Nerobro posted:First: BUUUT AUTO BED leveling is ESSENTIAL *rollseyes* There's no problems with ABL. If there's problems with ABL it's "all you" In my experience with both submodels, the ABL works remarkably well (I've tested it by zeroing it out before printing) with 1.0.13, though it reportedly had problems with earlier versions. You still have to set a Z offset yourself, but it's quite reliable. quote:You might need to put that offset into your start g-code. Or it MIGHT be in the start g-code and it's overwriting what you have there. I'd check your g-code, as that is the simplest answer. If it's anything it's likely the latter; z-offset seems to get saved to EEPROM just fine. tracecomplete fucked around with this message at 04:07 on Oct 8, 2022 |
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Oct 8, 2022 04:03
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doublepost
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Oct 8, 2022 04:06
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tracecomplete posted:Since you mentioned .10 and .15 only--if you can only move it by .05 at a time, you have old firmware and probably should upgrade to 1.0.13. Do you have a link? The one I put on this morning via the app (not the first one to get it to turn on) seemed to be the latest, but yes I can only move .05. I’ll check my gcode too, to the extant I can figure it out. Also the box had this, could it be a reason? 
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Oct 8, 2022 04:06
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Marshal Prolapse posted:Do you have a link? The one I put on this morning via the app (not the first one to get it to turn on) seemed to be the latest, but yes I can only move .05. Oh yeah good catch. That g-code is actually wrong on this printer. G28 erases the bed leveling, which requires you to re-level and might also blow away your Z-offset. The start G-code you want, AFTER you have hard-rebooted the printer, set your Z-offset, and done a full bed level after setting the Z offset, is something like (I'm not home, this is from memory) code:I can't speak to the app, because I disabled the wifi box the second I got the thing. I used a SD card for the body and a microSD inside the display unit to flash. You have to flash the body first. This video shows you. It's a bit of a pain in the rear end but it's not that bad. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qZHdCAixygg Which firmware you need depends on which printer you have. If you go to Settings -> About there should be a line that either includes "2405" or "S1_100". That's the mainboard in your printer. Download the correct firmware bundle from here: 2405: https://img.staticdj.com/b58313aeb339ef578dcde0189855afdf.zip S1_100: https://img.staticdj.com/0e46c6239b4a9c7fb99ddad1a083ea97.zip Also TIL there is now a 1.0.14 firmware! Get that one. (edit: lol, the release notes say "optimized PID page font size". what a release)
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Oct 8, 2022 04:14
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Marshal Prolapse posted:I’ll check my gcode too, to the extant I can figure it out. You have us. Use pastebin, post your first 50-100 lines of gcode, and we can look.
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Oct 8, 2022 04:16
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Thanks! I’m going to try these when I get up in the morning. I’m going to have a huge laugh if it turns out I just goofed up the offset and nothing was wrong with adhesion…at least in terms of the plate. Edit: I’ll add the code too. If I recall oddly enough the Cura was just G28; Home nothing like in the caution flyer.
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Oct 8, 2022 04:19
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The carborundum side of that plate works, it's just aggravating. The hictop PEI bed is $30, and even downright awful first layers stick to it fine.
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Oct 8, 2022 04:29
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I am currently printing Amazon glow-in-the-dark PLA. Because I've had trouble with Amazon PLA sticking to the bed, and because I've heard that glow-in-the-dark is a pain in the rear end anyway, I pulled the brosilicate glass bed again, and discovered why you don't want to use the Z axis limit switch if you have a bed probe! Everything seems to be going okay for now. Wish me luck.
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Oct 8, 2022 20:15
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For bed adhesion, I recommend hair spray. Aqua Net. It will also make a mohawk nigh invulnerable.
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Oct 8, 2022 22:48
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cruft posted:I am currently printing Amazon glow-in-the-dark PLA. With a proper hardened-steel, tungsten carbide, or similar nozzle ... right?
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Oct 8, 2022 23:58
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insta posted:With a proper hardened-steel, tungsten carbide, or similar nozzle ... right? Naw, brass. I've got a dozen brass nozzles and haven't replaced one yet, and now I guess I get to  Print came out great, by the way.
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Oct 9, 2022 00:08
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Yeah, brass nozzles are so cheap that I've gotten into the pretty bad habit of pushing "tough" filament through them when it's just a one-off print or small series of prints. Hasn't bit me in the rear end yet, although I usually make a note on that printer and replace the nozzle sooner than I otherwise would.
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Oct 9, 2022 01:28
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Combination of a sick kid, vaccine side effects, and Kerch Bridge kind of tossed my 3D plans out the window for tonight, but I’m going to try modifying the Gcode to ensure it’s the right offset and trying a benchy a little later or tomorrow morning and hopefully with not just stringy smushed pla to show for it. Edit: found a way around it by using the cloud print option. I did test .10 briefly and it looked good, but I’m doing benchy now to see what I can get as a full print out. I’m not using it with glue at first and it is on the reverse side, so I may still need to make some changes. Edit: added glue and it seems to be sticking. Edit2X: It’s working  . I can’t wait to just going hog wild on large builds now.  
Marshal Prolapse fucked around with this message at 03:25 on Oct 9, 2022 |
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Oct 9, 2022 01:38
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Thank you all so very much! It worked. The wheel inside is perfect and this was using Creality’s junk slicer. I’m going to just using Cura again and then load that gcode so I can upload it to the cloud and print via the app. I’m trying some Krieg Proxies right now if those work….time to queue up a big terrain print.
Marshal Prolapse fucked around with this message at 04:40 on Oct 9, 2022 |
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Oct 9, 2022 04:30
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Marshal Prolapse posted:Thank you all so very much! It worked. Aw hell yeah. That's a good looking benchy. You could totally call that done. But.. some of us have higher standards? You can stop reading ~here~. Looking at the benchy, you may be overextruding a LITTLE (that line on the bow is one indicator). When you peel it off the bed, you can take a good look at the bottom, you sould see a logo there. That tells you how well your first layer is going. Also the hole in the stern tells you how well the horizontal hole formation is. Edit: Crealitys slicer is Cura. Just whitelabeled and like.. 5 versions behind. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 04:45 on Oct 9, 2022 |
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Oct 9, 2022 04:40
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The logo looked good, I post a picture but it’s kind of hard to get the dotmatrix look to show up well. Thanks for the tip on over extrusion, how can I fine toon that? I also think this was set in super quality fwiw.
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Oct 9, 2022 04:43
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Marshal Prolapse posted:The logo looked good, I post a picture but it’s kind of hard to get the dotmatrix look to show up well. You can adjust the extrusion on the display. turn it down to like.. 97% or something. It's a thing that changes from spool to spool for something that minor I wouldn't go changing anything "real" about it.
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Oct 9, 2022 04:46
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Marshal Prolapse posted:Thank you all so very much! It worked. Looks good, see a little s banding maybe? Might just be the benchy but if you see it on taller prints at regular intervals you might need to align your z axis rod slightly
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Oct 9, 2022 05:14
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Do we have a laser cutter thread? I want a unit that's going to take what I throw at it, but also be safe, so an enclosure is a must, I think.
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Oct 9, 2022 16:13
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Deviant posted:Do we have a laser cutter thread? I want a unit that's going to take what I throw at it, but also be safe, so an enclosure is a must, I think. There's a really old one that doesn't get frequented anymore. Budget is a huge question for any of them. Most of the diode units are not enclosed and are basically fixed-z 3d printers. K40 is a pretty inexpensive 40(ish)W CO2 laser that is in a cabinet/enclosure. There are a couple of US companies that buy them in bulk from China and update/test before shipping out. I got mine from OMTech and it pretty much worked out of the box. Budget and what, specifically, you want to do are the biggest questions.
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Oct 9, 2022 16:21
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AlexDeGruven posted:There's a really old one that doesn't get frequented anymore. Budget is a huge question for any of them. Most of the diode units are not enclosed and are basically fixed-z 3d printers. budget is under a grand, needs are to cut mdf and acrylic for aesthetic pieces, terrain, cosplay parts, etc. open air gantry design is no-go because lmao that is the least safe thing i have ever seen in my life
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Oct 9, 2022 16:31
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Deviant posted:budget is under a grand, needs are to cut mdf and acrylic for aesthetic pieces, terrain, cosplay parts, etc. But have you considered the joy in lighting your house on fire?
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Oct 9, 2022 16:53
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I know it's cool to hate it, but I like my glowforge a lot.
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Oct 9, 2022 17:13
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Deviant posted:budget is under a grand, needs are to cut mdf and acrylic for aesthetic pieces, terrain, cosplay parts, etc.
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Oct 9, 2022 17:33
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Chainclaw posted:I know it's cool to hate it, but I like my glowforge a lot. Glowforge are good machines. Bridge the gap between K40 and professional machines like Epilog (my kid's robotics team got a brand new 50W Epilog to the tune of $35k and wow). My problem is that they're a bit overpriced and I hate software/online lock-in. Deviant posted:open air gantry design is no-go because lmao that is the least safe thing i have ever seen in my life For diodes it's really not that bad. They're in the visible light range (typically blue and purple), so it's easy to filter with glasses or just look away. The biggest issue is smoke. I run mine in the garage with the door open, and the normal breezes are enough to keep smoke moving out. I have air assist, so that helps with engraving smoke, it just smells nice, and cutting comes out the bottom of my honeycomb and gets sucked away by natural air movement. I only run that one during the warm months and stick to my K40 when it gets too cold to be out in the garage with the door open. This winter I'll be building my MPCNC on the spot where my diode lives as soon as I'm done making engraved plywood pins for the robotics team. AlexDeGruven fucked around with this message at 18:23 on Oct 9, 2022 |
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Oct 9, 2022 18:17
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So Benchy was great, but nothing else is sticking. Like I’m so confused how do they sell a product that if you use it have the box just doesn’t even remotely work? I am just so confused. Only downside to the huge build plate is that getting a PEI cover for it takes a couple of extra days….and that’s assuming it works. I just wish I knew what the X factor is.
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Oct 9, 2022 18:22
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Marshal Prolapse posted:So Benchy was great, but nothing else is sticking. Like I’m so confused how do they sell a product that if you use it have the box just doesn’t even remotely work? I am just so confused. Only downside to the huge build plate is that getting a PEI cover for it takes a couple of extra days….and that’s assuming it works. I just wish I knew what the X factor is. At the expense of starting that argument again, let’s just say that at the consumer price level, there are too many factors that can be accounted for in order for it to Just Work. They require tuning. I bet you  your printer is not defective, you just need to learn how to get it configured to work for your filament and printing environment. Okay, let’s break this down from the top. In order be of most help, we need input, as Johnny 5 would say. If you take a video of the first minute or two of printing, it would help a LOT. We need to see what your first layers look like, and what your bed looks like. Barring that: Q: how is it “not sticking”? Does the filament not stick at all, ever? Does it kinda stick with the filament not staying in place all the way around the perimeter and getting dragged sometimes? Does it stick for the first X layers and then come off, or get stuck to the hot end? What does it look like when it fails? Q: assuming it sticks for a while and then lets go, what do your first layers look like? Are they flat with no gaps between lines? Do they have a little gaps between lines? Does it look like a mini harp with fat lines and big gaps between? Does the filament get so thin that it goes transparent or even disappears for sections? Tip: always watch your first layer. There should be NO gaps between lines at all. If there are, your hot end is too high. If you see random patterns forming perpendicular to the print lines, it’s probably too low and leaving a ‘wake’ behind it. If it’s gouging your high school sweetheart’s initials into the bed it’s way too low. If you can’t get a nice first layer, don’t bother letting the print go. I won’t say it never works itself out, but not getting it down right isn’t going to help you learn. Q: bed quality - have you trammed (leveled) your bed? If so, how? Have you cleaned your print surface? If not, stop. Do not pass go do not collect $200. Go clean it first. Hot water and dish soap is really all you need. DO NOT TOUCH THE SURFACE WITH YOUR FINGERS. Oils from your skin are the worst offenders. Even if you ever so slightly brush against it, stop and wash it again. After you wash the plate, tram it again juuuust to be sure (probably overkill, but at this stage we want overkill). Once both of those are done, try printing with NO tape, glue, hairspray, etc. see if you can get a good first layer. If not, THEN try hairspray or gluestick (but not before you read the rest of the post and answer the Qs) Q: environment - what’s the temperature where you are printing? Is it dusty? Is there airflow like from a fan or AC? What’s the humidity? How stable is the print environment (is it next to a door everyone walks through)? Q: filament - what brand? What material? What color? Old package or new? Has it been open a while? Again, what’s the humidity where you store it? What’s your hot end temp set to? What’s the bed temp set to? Q: flow - does your filament flow smoothly? Heat up the hot end to 200 and push filament through, or tell the machine to feed it. Does the filament come out straight and drop cleanly? Or does it spin around in curls? When was the last time you cleaned or replaced your nozzle? Q: extrusion - honestly, if you give us the above info 95% of the time we can help you. If you feel inspired, take a caliper or a metal ruler and mark the filament with a marker 120mm from where it goes into the filament sensor/extruder. Tell the machine to feed 100mm of filament. Measure to the mark again. Ideally you should have 20mm left sticking out. If not, tell us how much is left. All these factors I’m asking about matter. That’s why printers don’t always ‘just work’. Doctor Zero fucked around with this message at 19:10 on Oct 9, 2022 |
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Oct 9, 2022 19:06
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Thanks! I’ll get some video of early printing. I can say offhand I get the dragging and then clumps of melted pla near, but not stock, in the nozzle. It does fully push through when heated up, as opposed to coiling. Now it does clump up near the hot end and the only part it sticks to is the left side when it first starts up to clear out extra material.  Quick question after cleaning the bed, do I just let it air dry for a while or use a iPhone cleaning cloth? I can say I already know they paper towels…not the best idea. Oh regarding material I’m using the Inland PLA + from Microcenter. I also made sure to tighten the extra poles that are for holding up the unit. Marshal Prolapse fucked around with this message at 20:07 on Oct 9, 2022 |
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Oct 9, 2022 19:14
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I have heard but can’t confirm that IPA does something to the carborundum glass that isn’t good for it, so if they’re wet cloths it might not be good. I use shop towels and IPA on my PEI flex beds on the same printer and it owns, but my Z offsets are generally pretty good.
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Oct 9, 2022 20:10
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He’s what happened after the standard left side printing (which does stick).  Regarding the environment it’s a finished basement that’s around 68 degrees give or take. Marshal Prolapse fucked around with this message at 20:20 on Oct 9, 2022 |
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Oct 9, 2022 20:12
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AlexDeGruven posted:just look away. you're loving insane. nevermind that a bad reflection or misaligned mirror can blind you before you can blink, should i just have everyone in my house and my pets wear glasses too? Deviant fucked around with this message at 20:22 on Oct 9, 2022 |
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Oct 9, 2022 20:18
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Deviant posted:budget is under a grand, needs are to cut mdf and acrylic for aesthetic pieces, terrain, cosplay parts, etc. I'd definitely take AlexDeGruven's advice and look for a US seller of K40 machines (which have a 40W CO2 laser tube and a full enclosure). He mentioned OMTech and they have a lot of machines. Desktop size new lasers fit your budget but are smaller: https://omtechlaser.com/collections/df-series-co2-laser-engravers Larger sizes start around 2 grand which is what I kind of remembered a K40 being a few years ago (maybe they're less now direct from China but you'll be spending a lot of time loving around with setting it up). They also have a preowned section that might be affordable if what you want is in stock. https://omtechlaser.com/collections/pre-owned-co2-laser-machines Most of these need water cooling and an air exhaust because of the nasty smoke. I've seen a lot of hobbyists just use a 5 gallon bucket of water with an aquarium pump in it for the water cooling loop.
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Oct 9, 2022 21:05
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Deviant posted:you're loving insane. nevermind that a bad reflection or misaligned mirror can blind you before you can blink, should i just have everyone in my house and my pets wear glasses too? In fairness, dogs wearing sunglasses are the most rad dogs, but your more general point is very important.
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Oct 9, 2022 21:17
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Deviant posted:budget is under a grand, needs are to cut mdf and acrylic for aesthetic pieces, terrain, cosplay parts, etc. In your budget it's k40, or an open gantry diode laser. Assuming you want to cut clear acrylic, k40 is really your only option. Diode lasers are all colored light (powerful ones are pretty much all near uv) which will go through clear acrylic without cutting it. CO2 lasers are all mid infared. Look for a k40 with a knob and a analog meter. You'll find many places that want to sell you one with a digital led display and membrane buttons, and call it an upgrade. It's worse to actually use, and makes it much easier to over current and destroy your tube. In addition many of the new k40 lasers come with a short much less powerful tube. A word on laser power numbers. The 40w is 40w nominal, aka about 35w peak, aka mildly overdriven. So about 30w in actual use. The short tubes are more like 20w in actual use. Open gantry designs are slightly safer than you give them credit for, there are no mirrors too misalign, and the integrated optics ensure beam divergence over a short distance. You still won't find me hanging around one without glasses on though.
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Oct 9, 2022 21:25
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In this house safety squints are mandatory.
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Oct 9, 2022 21:31
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Deviant posted:you're loving insane. nevermind that a bad reflection or misaligned mirror can blind you before you can blink, should i just have everyone in my house and my pets wear glasses too? A, there are no mirrors. B, I mean in a general sense. I run mine in the garage, and generally don't look at it at all once it's running. And if I feel the need to check the progress, I have glasses. And C, again, I don't run it in the house, and the garage is off limits while I'm running it. I'm not a (complete) loving moron.
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Oct 9, 2022 21:35
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