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The I3 came in yesterday and was pretty well dialed in, made it through a couple of prints to figure out the best temp for the spool of PLA+ I bought with it. I wondered why the Z tower wasn't as rigid to the bed as I thought it should be.. turns out I missed the step of putting in the second set of hex bolts that come in from the inside of the bed  After I did that, there was a slight improvement in quality but I need to re-level the bed because my first layer is a little thicker than it needs to be and doesn't adhere as well. Wasn't a huge deal since the print I ran overnight was built on a raft. One thing I did notice as that my overhangs aren't printing very cleanly yet. I've only run two parts with overhang so far and I suspect the stock fan isn't powerful enough to cool the plastic as quickly as needed. The micro swiss hotend and a spool of PETG should be here tomorrow so my first project with that will be a fan duct, then the Z tower brace. All in all, I'm pretty happy with the machine and pleasantly surprised at how strong the PLA+ is, it's actually durable enough for most of the things I had in mind to build initially and I'll probably use it a lot more than I though since it prints well at higher speeds. The set of slider potentiometer caps I made are already being put to use in the theater for the house lights fader, and are actually an improvement on the originals since these are wider and easier to grip between the thumb and index finger. I'm super excited about all the possibilities having one of these machines opens up; all those "wouldn't it be nice if..." kind of projects can be done in less than a few hours and don't require a trip to the store or finding something on amazon, and none of the corporate rigamarole of getting approval for such frivolous purchases might be the best part 
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Jun 16, 2017 21:13
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ickna posted:The I3 came in yesterday and was pretty well dialed in, made it through a couple of prints to figure out the best temp for the spool of PLA+ I bought with it. I wondered why the Z tower wasn't as rigid to the bed as I thought it should be.. turns out I missed the step of putting in the second set of hex bolts that come in from the inside of the bed Here are some quality tests that I printed like 45 minutes after I assembled the i3 kit here:     Overall, we get usable bridges up to about 13cm, great overhangs up to about 65º, about .25mm x/y tolerances. This is at .2mm layer height, 60mm/s print speed, 220º/60º nozzle/bed in Cura with all other settings stock. I find Slic3r butchers bridging compared to Cura, so I'd recommend making the change if you're not using it. Slic3r also defaults to "auto cooling" which means that the fan is almost never on and your surfaces end up looking like poo poo. quote:The set of slider potentiometer caps I made are already being put to use in the theater for the house lights fader, and are actually an improvement on the originals since these are wider and easier to grip between the thumb and index finger. I'm super excited about all the possibilities having one of these machines opens up; all those "wouldn't it be nice if..." kind of projects can be done in less than a few hours and don't require a trip to the store or finding something on amazon, and none of the corporate rigamarole of getting approval for such frivolous purchases might be the best part *ends up printing nothing but fidgets for children and dummies* tuyop fucked around with this message at 23:33 on Jun 16, 2017 |
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Jun 16, 2017 23:30
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tuyop posted:Here are some quality tests that I printed like 45 minutes after I assembled the i3 kit here: Thanks for the info. I'm using Cura currently while I wait on S3D to send me a discount code (perks of working at a university!). Also your temps and speeds are pretty much identical to what I'm using though I usually add a few degrees to the hot end once the fan gets going since the temps oscillate a bit. I'm guessing there is probably some PID tuning that would help stabilize it a bit more but I'm going to wait until I install the Micro Swiss when it comes in tomorrow, and install a fan duct. I also noticed that thingiverse is like 80% fidget spinners 
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Jun 17, 2017 01:35
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Just BTW Prusa's forked Slic3r version is so, so much better than the original version. They finally fixed a wall-infill bug that I have been complaining about on the main Slic3r github for well over a year now, and they've made hundreds of other upgrades as well (slicing code is in C++ instead of loving Perl! It slices in milliseconds instead of minutes!) and continue to actively develop the software. I prefer it to every other slicer, including Cura and S3D.
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Jun 17, 2017 01:41
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Sagebrush posted:Just BTW Prusa's forked Slic3r version is so, so much better than the original version. They finally fixed a wall-infill bug that I have been complaining about on the main Slic3r github for well over a year now, and they've made hundreds of other upgrades as well (slicing code is in C++ instead of loving Perl! It slices in milliseconds instead of minutes!) and continue to actively develop the software. I prefer it to every other slicer, including Cura and S3D. Thanks for reminding me about this
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Jun 17, 2017 01:51
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Sagebrush posted:Just BTW Prusa's forked Slic3r version is so, so much better than the original version. They finally fixed a wall-infill bug that I have been complaining about on the main Slic3r github for well over a year now, and they've made hundreds of other upgrades as well (slicing code is in C++ instead of loving Perl! It slices in milliseconds instead of minutes!) and continue to actively develop the software. I prefer it to every other slicer, including Cura and S3D. I'm using the prusa version, it's still super slow and doesn't end up improving my models. That variable layer height adjustment is loving awesome though, and I keep it around for that.
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Jun 17, 2017 03:26
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Sagebrush posted:Just BTW Prusa's forked Slic3r version is so, so much better than the original version. They finally fixed a wall-infill bug that I have been complaining about on the main Slic3r github for well over a year now, and they've made hundreds of other upgrades as well (slicing code is in C++ instead of loving Perl! It slices in milliseconds instead of minutes!) and continue to actively develop the software. I prefer it to every other slicer, including Cura and S3D. Why did I build a mk2 clone and then not check this out. I've got a print that looks like it's going much better than my previous attempts this week.
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Jun 17, 2017 14:59
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mewse posted:I was only running the fan at 20% because it seems the fan is way too powerful somehow -- it's a 5015 but it's ball bearing? EDIT: It should be pointed out that while Prusa has definitely contributed to the Slic3r development, almost the entirety of the Perl -> C++ slicer conversion was done by the original author. They just released their version before the official version which already had most the enhancements. Prusa rewrote the support generation in C though, and their version does introduce at least one bug I know of, but more people working on it is a good thing for everyone because it is my favorite slicer. CapnBry fucked around with this message at 15:09 on Jun 17, 2017 |
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Jun 17, 2017 15:02
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Sagebrush posted:Just BTW Prusa's forked Slic3r version is so, so much better than the original version. They finally fixed a wall-infill bug that I have been complaining about on the main Slic3r github for well over a year now, and they've made hundreds of other upgrades as well (slicing code is in C++ instead of loving Perl! It slices in milliseconds instead of minutes!) and continue to actively develop the software. I prefer it to every other slicer, including Cura and S3D. Have much of the prusa changes made it into the main project, 1.30-dev builds? How different is Prusa edition from 1.3.0-dev ? e: wow, the last stable release (1.2.9) had its 2yr anniversary yesterday.
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Jun 17, 2017 18:58
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Prusa Slic3r seems to have fixed all the problems I was having with my prints so I'm pretty jazzed. I'm gonna try printing a tree frog at 0.10mm layer height and see what happens. With my printer finally working correctly I can print parts for my hypercube build. CapnBry posted:I bought a 5015 blower to put on the new x carriage I am building for my i3 (it was its 4th birthday on Thursday!) and I think you and I are blower buddies. If it makes you feel better prusa slic3r config for PETG only has the part cooling fan hitting a max of 50%, so our situation might not be too abnormal. Putting a silicone sock on my genuine e3d fixed the temperature drops that were causing prints to halt (Marlin 1.1.1 was detecting "thermal runaway" and thought the sensor fell off or something) mewse fucked around with this message at 19:28 on Jun 17, 2017 |
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Jun 17, 2017 19:25
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I have two squirrel-cage blower fans on my printer -- don't remember the exact specs but they're similar to the 5015s -- and I can't run them at more than 60% (PLA) without overcooling the print and causing crappy layer adhesion. And that's with custom ducts that completely avoid the nozzle and heat block; with the original ducts, that sort of caught the bottom half of the heat block, 100% fans would mean it couldn't even keep 200 degrees.
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Jun 17, 2017 19:43
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I need a recommendation for the easiest 3D modeling program to use for putting text along a curved wall. I have in mind two project with text 'engraved' into cylindrical walls.Sagebrush posted:I have two squirrel-cage blower fans on my printer -- don't remember the exact specs but they're similar to the 5015s -- and I can't run them at more than 60% (PLA) without overcooling the print and causing crappy layer adhesion. And that's with custom ducts that completely avoid the nozzle and heat block; with the original ducts, that sort of caught the bottom half of the heat block, 100% fans would mean it couldn't even keep 200 degrees. It ultimately depends on the strength of the fan, so if it is powerful enough, you wouldn't want it on full blast. I also need to use E3D socks to keep from cooling my heater block.
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Jun 17, 2017 20:12
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I'd like to build a part cooling fan for my printer, but I haven't seen a printer with one, so I'm not sure exactly how they work. Do I need to attach it to the printing head so it blows on the plastic that's just been extruded, or do I just blow over the whole part? I'm not sure what the objective is.
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Jun 18, 2017 01:22
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The idea is to cool the plastic after it's laid down, so that it freezes in the correct place without sinking or sagging. With PLA, it makes parts sharper and improves overhang/bridging performance. The fan should be directed as closely to the nozzle as possible without actually blowing on the nozzle or heatblock, and it should cool the part from both sides (or all around). Here's what mine look like:  Fans are not necessary for all materials and notably ruin layer adhesion in things like nylon and ABS.
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Jun 18, 2017 01:31
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Discovery of the day: Marlin 1.1's gcode to adjust z probe offset. Throwing it in my starting gcode instead of flashing firmware. M851 Z-0.4 There's another one M585 that doesn't seem available in Marlin
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Jun 18, 2017 02:21
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Instead of putting it in your starting g-code, you can also turn on the EEPROM and then do G851 Z-0.4 M500 and it will store the value on the board and load it automatically when the bed is zeroed with G28. It's not that big a deal if you just have the one printer, but for us in a shop where we have lots of different machines with slightly different calibrations, being able to make the gcode (mostly) machine-independent by storing calibration data on the machine itself is a huge benefit.
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Jun 18, 2017 03:26
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Does vanilla ramps 1.4 have EEPROM? I haven't had the courage to try enabling eeprom in Configuration.h e: I guess it would be the arduino mega storing info since it hosts the atmel processor
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Jun 18, 2017 03:44
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If it is not enabled in configuration.h, you will not be able to save to EEPROM.
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Jun 18, 2017 04:17
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Sagebrush posted:The idea is to cool the plastic after it's laid down, so that it freezes in the correct place without sinking or sagging. With PLA, it makes parts sharper and improves overhang/bridging performance. Excellent, thanks
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Jun 18, 2017 07:59
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Got my volcano installed on my MK2 and am loving it. 0.8 mm nozzle, 0.6 mm layer height in vase mode, E-SUN PET-G.
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Jun 18, 2017 09:36
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Megabound posted:Got my volcano installed on my MK2 and am loving it. Super cool, what's your line width? Did you see the coating that taulman recommends for t-glase?
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Jun 18, 2017 09:41
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mewse posted:Super cool, what's your line width? Did you see the coating that taulman recommends for t-glase? 0.9 mm, and no I didn't, what's the coating for? One of my printing projects involves a water tight vessel so I need to play with my settings until I get something perfect. Won't be single shell though.
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Jun 18, 2017 09:53
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Megabound posted:0.9 mm, and no I didn't, what's the coating for? One of my printing projects involves a water tight vessel so I need to play with my settings until I get something perfect. Won't be single shell though. http://taulman3d.com/t-glase-optics.html e: Tom did a vid about transparent petg too
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Jun 18, 2017 10:17
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mewse posted:http://taulman3d.com/t-glase-optics.html That's incredible, I really need to get some T-Glase.
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Jun 18, 2017 10:23
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I'm about ready to give up on OctoPrint on my Pi3. I've tried to run two 10 hour long / 15mb of gcode prints with it and it gives up and stops about 6 hours in each time. As in, the printer says it has 16 lines in the buffer but sits there with the nozzle resting on the last line it was printing and all the temps up like it wants to keep going. The console reports a bad checksum and then hits a communications timeout on the resend request. I can't resume a job from where it left off and reconnecting the serial port through the interface reboots the printer anyways. I don't have a camera set up and nothing else is running, so it isn't starved for resources. I tried a different USB cable on the second run and hit the same problem. At this point I just want to get these long prints done with (Z braces for the printer) and move on, so I think I'm going to go back to printing from the SD card and using Octoprint for monitoring.
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Jun 19, 2017 04:32
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ickna posted:I'm about ready to give up on OctoPrint on my Pi3. I've tried to run two 10 hour long / 15mb of gcode prints with it and it gives up and stops about 6 hours in each time. As in, the printer says it has 16 lines in the buffer but sits there with the nozzle resting on the last line it was printing and all the temps up like it wants to keep going. Unfortunately this could be anything. I was going to suggest a different USB cable before reading you already tried that. The USB-to-serial chip on the control board might be screwed, unless you've tried controlling with a PC and it's fine. Bad checksum is a very strange error message and it's worth wondering what layer caused the data corruption. I ran a 9 hr job today with my pi 3 and most recent octoprint, basic arduino+ramps setup.
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Jun 19, 2017 04:59
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Are you using the OctoPi image, or did you install it yourself? Anecdotes are useless and all that but I had a bunch of problems with the preconfigured image back when we started using OctoPrint, while using a plain Ubuntu image and installing from source -- while more time-consuming -- has been totally reliable. incidentally, since I know foosel reads this thread and I don't want to clog up the github: I have a question about making a custom control. I have set up a bunch of buttons for stuff like priming/clearing the extruder, running cleaning cycles, etc. but I want a more interactive one that allows GUI getting and setting of the M851 Z-offset. So basically a button "get offset" that sends an M851, does a regex on the response, and reports the value; and then another "set offset" one that takes a value as input and stores it. M851 returns something like the following -- echo: Z-offset: -2.00 I can make the buttons themselves just fine, but the I/O is not working correctly. I'm using the custom control editor, but I'm not totally clear on how to sync the regex with an output that shows up in the GUI. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 05:08 on Jun 19, 2017 |
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Jun 19, 2017 05:01
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Revol posted:I need a recommendation for the easiest 3D modeling program to use for putting text along a curved wall. I have in mind two project with text 'engraved' into cylindrical walls. Microsoft's 3d viewer/basic editor that comes installed with eg windows 10. It makes some tasks (like adding text) ridiculously simple.
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Jun 19, 2017 05:13
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I had no trouble using Pronterface or whatever it is called now over the first USB cable, granted I didn't try a long endurance run. I had also compiled OctoPrint from source myself on a fresh install of raspbian, not from the premade image. Hopefully the dev can chime in on some weird edge case with this board but I also wouldn't be shocked if it were the hardware in some way; I already had an issue with the filament feed stepper rocking in place like it was only running on single phase. Continuity was fine in the cables, it turned out that the connector on the board side wasn't fully seated. I'll probably be buying another Pi and a camera in the coming weeks anyway since the one I was using to try OctoPrint was my main tinkering one, perhaps a brand new one and a fresh SD card will work. You can never have too many Pis 
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Jun 19, 2017 05:36
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You have the maker select v2 right? Why on earth does it run a melzi board 
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Jun 19, 2017 05:48
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yeah, I do. After opening it up and seeing all the stepper drivers soldered straight to the board, I think swapping to another controller might be coming once one of those drivers die.
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Jun 19, 2017 06:03
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mewse posted:You have the maker select v2 right? Why on earth does it run a melzi board Because the Melzi is perfectly fine for a machine that only has one hotend/extruder and does not use an auto-leveling system? Purely anecdotal, but I've had no issues with the Melzi on my Maker Select. Do the Mosfet mod for the heated bed ASAP and take the majority of the current load off of it and it runs fine.
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Jun 19, 2017 12:11
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I've never used a melzi board, but supposedly some of the original versions had manufacturing issues that were solved by updating the board design...but the Chinese knockoff versions almost always just copy v1.0 and so the same issues continue to surface. I'm a big spender so my printers have RAMBOs in them 
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Jun 19, 2017 18:48
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I've never owned a Melzi I just base my opinion on this Tom video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R852h5F1ODg
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Jun 19, 2017 19:30
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I'm about 99% certain that anything Geetech is going to be hot garbage no matter what it's mimicking.
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Jun 19, 2017 19:38
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I've bought some Lack tables to make an enclosure for my mk2 and I was wondering how important a good seal is along the plexiglass/pvc panels? I thought the radiating temp coming from the build plate and hotend would be enough to make up for small gaps since I'll only be using it now for PLA or is it worth the trouble to just go ahead and make a decent seal all round for ABS and fume filtering?
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Jun 19, 2017 20:20
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For my i3's 4th birthday, I modded a Prusa i3 MK2 x-carriage, extruder, and hotend mount to fit an E3D Hobgoblin drive gear and LJ12A3-4-Z/BX inductive probe, as well as mate with my MakerFarm frame. This isn't the first time I've upgraded the carriage et al but I am finally away from this plywood stage arrangement and most importantly the leaky 3mm hotend. Let's see there was the
 A hundred hours of upgrades over the 4 years, don't say I don't love you my monroebot. The giant rear end 48mm NEMA 17 motor on the new extruder is temporary until I get the Titan Areo on the other printer, which has a 35mm stepper currently. Still prints pretty well considering the extra weight. The old pile of parts weighted in at exactly 500g, this is 570g so it will actually be lighter too once I swap the stepper. Best part of all is that it cost me nothing besides unused leftover parts, some old garbage wet filament, and a single M3x40mm bolt which of course are impossible to just go out and buy in America. Oh also a whole day morning to midnight to put it all together, make new cables, and reconfigure Marlin for the new probe/bed/extruder geometry.  I am a little disappointed. The 15% infill, 3 solid top layer calibration cube has an absolutely perfect top layer and now it is making my other printer look bad.
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Jun 19, 2017 21:15
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ickna posted:The console reports a bad checksum and then hits a communications timeout on the resend request. [...] I don't have a camera set up and nothing else is running, so it isn't starved for resources. I tried a different USB cable on the second run and hit the same problem. Could also be power issues. I had a couple of users running into these, and it seems to happen more and more often (my guess is thanks to more and more people getting a quite power hungry Pi3 but continue to use their meh power supplies that worked fine for a Pi1 or 2 but don't for a 3). Leads to all kinds of hilarious issues, communication errors, outright disconnects, unresponsive web interface, lost network connections, ... If you are 100% certain that this can't be it, a serial.log might allow for some deeper diagnosis. Could of course also be the printer hiccuping hard, or some firmware bug (I recently discovered that the ex-colleagues who coded up the firmware of my main printer managed to fsck up the interrupt handlers thanks to expensive floating point operations there-in, causing the serial communication to simply run into one issue after another due to wonky timings - fun for the whole family). Sagebrush posted:I have a question about making a custom control. I have set up a bunch of buttons for stuff like priming/clearing the extruder, running cleaning cycles, etc. but I want a more interactive one that allows GUI getting and setting of the M851 Z-offset. So basically a button "get offset" that sends an M851, does a regex on the response, and reports the value; and then another "set offset" one that takes a value as input and stores it. M851 returns something like the following -- I fear that's not possible with the current custom control implementation (if I understand you correctly). It was never meant for sophisticated configuration workflows to be honest and there simply is no type of control available that basically does "Send this command and use its response as value in this text input field" (patches welcome  ). Could be done with a plugin though, but for that you'd need to code up some Python.As a side note: Github would be the wrong location for such a question anyhow, the mailing list or the G+ community are the go-to place for support and questions 
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Jun 20, 2017 15:39
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foosel posted:Could also be power issues. I had a couple of users running into these, and it seems to happen more and more often (my guess is thanks to more and more people getting a quite power hungry Pi3 but continue to use their meh power supplies that worked fine for a Pi1 or 2 but don't for a 3). Leads to all kinds of hilarious issues, communication errors, outright disconnects, unresponsive web interface, lost network connections, ... I'll pull the log when I get home later. It shouldn't be the power supply, I have a 2.5a one; but I am also running the official 7in display on it. I think I'll try it again with a new pi that runs a headless console-only raspbian and compile OctoPrint from source. I really hope it was a Pi issue and not the printer. OctoPrint is a cool bit of kit, especially the live gcode viewer.
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Jun 20, 2017 21:31
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foosel posted:Could also be power issues. I had a couple of users running into these, and it seems to happen more and more often (my guess is thanks to more and more people getting a quite power hungry Pi3 but continue to use their meh power supplies that worked fine for a Pi1 or 2 but don't for a 3). Leads to all kinds of hilarious issues, communication errors, outright disconnects, unresponsive web interface, lost network connections, ... What would be the best power supply to use to avoid power issues being the problem? A lot of the popular "kits" on Amazon still come with the plug originally used on the Pi1 kit.
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Jun 20, 2017 22:06
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