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Sylink posted:I ordered the G0715P and the mobile base, heres hoping I can get it in my basement. Also, they had the same model on amazon prime but for less money you can order direct from grizzly Grizzly is all direct sales which helps a lot in keeping things cheaper. I'm pretty sure the ones on amazon have all the freight etc included, but it is still more expensive for whatever reason. When are you expecting to receive it? Once you pull the top off the base is only like 20x21 or something, I'll certainly have to do that to get it in my basement. Even then it's going to be a bit .. interesting. Old house with steep deathtrap stairs is a recipe for fun.
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Feb 10, 2015 14:15
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Sylink posted:Is Paul Sellers a lord or something??? Does he own that castle ??? He runs the New Legacy School of Woodworking, which has a wood shop inside Penrhyn Castle. The castle is owned by the UK National Trust. Geop posted:Do any of you guys have a recommended or "favorite" method for removing rust? The refurbishing I've done to date weren't big on rust, but I'll likely clean this one up just for the sake of appearances. Dremel or drill wire wheels. You can also use a rust converter to turn it to black oxide. Keep it lubed afterwards so it doesn't come back. lwoodio fucked around with this message at 14:46 on Feb 10, 2015 |
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Feb 10, 2015 14:43
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bimmian posted:Grizzly is all direct sales which helps a lot in keeping things cheaper. I'm pretty sure the ones on amazon have all the freight etc included, but it is still more expensive for whatever reason. When are you expecting to receive it? The checkout said the 12th but I'm not sure and even then the initial cost for $1200 total with the base but after checkout and on the email receipt it was only $1000 so I dont even know what the gently caress I paid at this point. I've heard of some issues with the hybrid saw alignment but I can't justify the larger cabinet saw and the hybrid is enough for me, anyway. Seems a minority have alignment issues.
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Feb 10, 2015 15:03
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Geop posted:Do any of you guys have a recommended or "favorite" method for removing rust? The refurbishing I've done to date weren't big on rust, but I'll likely clean this one up just for the sake of appearances. Depends on the individual job. If you have a very rusted part, especially one with odd nooks and crannies, and you have a 12v battery charger, you can use electrolysys. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ka6ArN_ehas Gentle media blasting (soda, walnut shell etc) is also a good option if you have someone locally. Otherwise, as mentioned, a wire wheel is great for bare/painted steel/iron, rough sisal buffing wheels can be useful on softer materials like brass / bronze parts. For spot-rusted chromed steel parts, ball up a piece of aluminium foil and scrub it with that. Use a corrosion inhibitor wax or polish to prevent further rust spots. EDIT: I haven't tried it yet, but cider vinegar is apparently good for rust too. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5F4TNqsK8Ck ReelBigLizard fucked around with this message at 15:06 on Feb 10, 2015 |
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Feb 10, 2015 15:04
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Sylink posted:The checkout said the 12th but I'm not sure and even then the initial cost for $1200 total with the base but after checkout and on the email receipt it was only $1000 so I dont even know what the gently caress I paid at this point. Seemed to be hit or miss for alignment issues. I couldn't find as many recent (within the last 6-12 months) complaints when I was looking so hopefully they've improved QC in that particular area.
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Feb 10, 2015 15:35
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ReelBigLizard posted:EDIT: I haven't tried it yet, but cider vinegar is apparently good for rust too.
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Feb 10, 2015 16:46
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If you have access to a it you can clean up light rust with a sandblaster filled with baking soda. The soda won't mar the metal at all. I use it for cleaning carbs because the thin passages can get clogged with any other abrasive, while baking soda just dissolves with a little water.
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Feb 10, 2015 18:56
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Rust chat inspired me to get to work on the jointer I rescued this week that has been sitting in my grandma's damp detached garage since my grandpa passed in 2007. The entire table was bright orange with brown pits, and some deep rings of rust where some knucklehead must have been using it to rest pop cans on. I started with the wire wheels, which got about 90% of the surface rust and about 25% of the pitted rust off, then moved on to apple cider vinegar. Some, but not the worst of the rust was coming off with the wire wheel and vinegar, but I didn't want to add more vinegar for longer time because the garage now smells strongly like apple cider vineger, which is easily confused for old gym shoes and butt sweat. The left side of the table is after the wire wheel only. The right side is after apple cider vinegar and more wire wheeling.  Next try was toilet bowl cleaner with HCL. I glopped it on thick with a paper towel and let it sit 5 minutes and started with the wire wheel at slow speed to avoid slinging goo on everything. The rest of the surface rust melted away, and the deep pits of rust came out easily with a little scrubbing with the wire wheel. 
lwoodio fucked around with this message at 20:01 on Feb 10, 2015 |
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Feb 10, 2015 19:59
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lwoodio posted:Stuff I started reading your post, and thought, "I wonder what 50 year old piece of 'Murican Iron he pulled out of a pile of Harley parts and rare jukeboxes?" Then I saw the like new Ridgid paint, and thought that it had only been rusting since 2007, so it shouldn't have been too bad. Then I realized that 2007 was eight years ago.  Looks like you got it cleaned up pretty well, though.I need some input. I've been tossing around some ideas for a portable workbench that will fold to fit inside my Jeep, but be large enough to do some actual work. I was going to keep it small enough to fit behind the seat when it's down, until I realized that if I have the seat down, I won't have room to put any tools in anyway. Anyway, I started drawing something in Sketchup, with some Moravian bench influence.  There would be a hinge at the bottom of the seam in the cyan part. All the leg components and the vise collapse and are secured under the top, and both halves fold together and latch. The orange stretchers are wedged together with a timber frame style scarf joint, and secured in the legs with wedged half dovetails. (I could also just hinge the stretchers in the middle and pass them completely through one leg, but where's the challenge in that?) Then I started to think about the forces placed on the hinge with any amount of force in the middle of the top. I also questioned my need for a Moxon vise, or the tail vise that I originally drew on there. If any of you have watched Mike Siemsen's Workholding on Viseless Benches, you've seen that you can do a lot of work with just a holdfast or two, and some battens. So I switched gears for a bit, and drew up more of a Nicholson style bench.  On this one you pop out the red end pieces and the legs, put everything inside the top, and fold the tan aprons down flat. The legs have the same wedged-half-dovetail stretchers. Then the two halves fold together and latch the same as the other bench. I also gave this one a simple removable crochet, as Mike Siemsen did on the portable Nicholson. If I were to rely on the hinges on this one, the results would be about the same. If I could latch the lower aprons, however, they would share the load with the hinges. Plus they would prevent the middle from lifting up for any reason. They also make it significantly heavier, which, while good for stability, is not good for my back. So, I guess my questions for all of you are: What pros and cons of each do you forsee? Which would you rather work at, and why? How would you improve any of the problems you see? Neither of the models are complete. They'll both have plenty of holes for holdfasts, all of the relevant wedges, etc., and all the dimensions will be updated when I pick my final design. And keep in mind, I already have a Roubo-style bench for my hardcore work. This is just to take with me where ever I may need it. I also may try to figure out some sort of interlocking thingy to replace the hinges.
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Feb 10, 2015 23:08
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I figured this would be a good place to ask if anyone knew where to buy chisel handles.
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Feb 11, 2015 04:17
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The junk collector posted:I figured this would be a good place to ask if anyone knew where to buy chisel handles. Get a lathe and make your own!  I actually don't know where to buy your own
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Feb 11, 2015 04:21
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blunt for century posted:Get a lathe and make your own! You don't even need a lathe. Roundover bits on a router table do a decent job as well.
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Feb 11, 2015 04:25
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If you're really cheap, use the handleless chisel to make a handle!
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Feb 11, 2015 04:35
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Frogmanv2 posted:You don't even need a lathe. Roundover bits on a router table do a decent job as well. Everyone should get a lathe  And full face/head protection too. Lathe accidents are not fun.
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Feb 11, 2015 04:37
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Accidents are bound to happen if you ever get lathe'zy
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Feb 11, 2015 05:39
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The junk collector posted:I figured this would be a good place to ask if anyone knew where to buy chisel handles. EBay, lots of them last I looked.
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Feb 11, 2015 17:59
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Any recommendations on a good Morse 2 taper chuck for my old 17" Delta DP? I'm looking for something reasonably cost effective, yet reliable and accurate.
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Feb 11, 2015 20:44
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blunt for century posted:Everyone should get a lathe I have had a few pieces fly off the chuck at my head. I just learned how to doge them, keep those reflexes strong.
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Feb 12, 2015 02:29
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JEEVES420 posted:I have had a few pieces fly off the chuck at my head. I just learned how to doge them, keep those reflexes strong. There's a dude who I hang out and turn with who got his skull broken and had to spend a few weeks in the hospital from a large-ish piece flying off his chuck a while back. He's fine now, but I definitely wear a proper helmet and face shield now, just to keep that from happening.
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Feb 12, 2015 02:42
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I picked up a replacement blade and cap iron from Veritas for the #7 I'm restoring, and I want your opinion on whether I'm being picky or just unlucky here. All the planes I've been exposed to close the gap between the cap iron and the blade before putting them in the plane. On both of the cap irons I've received from Veritas, there has been a significant gap between the two. Now I think it closes up when you put the lever cap down, but it is really weird to me that they wouldn't close up when tightened down with the screw. Do you think this looks reasonable or should I send it back? I attached it to a couple other plane blades, and while the width was off, it still had the same gap. This is the gap with the screw tightened down:  How far you can slide a piece of paper between the irons:   For a company that goes on and on about precision this seems awfully suspect to me. As far as I can tell the blade is about as straight as any other blade I've got.
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Feb 12, 2015 03:03
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It is my understanding that there should be no gap there. That the point of them being firmly together is to keep the blade from skipping. The blade and cap on my old Stanley 4 off ebay has no gap, even when laying flat on each other without the screw. Personally I'd send it back, maybe even with one of the pictures.
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Feb 12, 2015 18:38
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I'm pretty sure I have a new in box veritas blade and cap at home, I can check it out this evening and see what it looks like. Regardless, I don't think there should be a gap. Email them with those pics and see what they say.
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Feb 12, 2015 18:49
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Is that the lever cap or the chip breaker? If you have a gap between the blade and the chip breaker you will have endless problems. The plane itself will be almost unusable because the shavings wedge between the two eventually giving you a "fouled mouth". By eventually I mean every one to two passes. Edit: ok, in the last pic it appears to be the chip breaker. that is bad. I would send it back.
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Feb 12, 2015 19:45
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Yeah, that's just the blade and cap iron. Having never bought replacement parts it's a bit unnerving when you get two in a row that are messed up in the same way. Granted the first one wasn't quite so bad, but you could still slide a piece of paper about halfway between the two. Makes you feel like you're going crazy a bit! I'll send the caliper picture back to them and see what they have to say.
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Feb 12, 2015 20:54
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swampface posted:Yeah, that's just the blade and cap iron. Having never bought replacement parts it's a bit unnerving when you get two in a row that are messed up in the same way. Granted the first one wasn't quite so bad, but you could still slide a piece of paper about halfway between the two. Makes you feel like you're going crazy a bit! I'll send the caliper picture back to them and see what they have to say. Yeah, as far as I know the cap iron should only touch at the leading edge of the blade and then further back there you screw them together. There's a diagram that shows that on Lee valley: http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?cat=1,230,41182&p=66868
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Feb 12, 2015 22:56
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The cap iron ~is~ the chipbreaker and it absolutely can't have a gap. Normally you flatten them on your stones to make the fit perfect, or at least you do with old planes when you restore them. I'd be shocked if that closes up when you put the lever cap on.
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Feb 12, 2015 23:31
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Well they're sending a whole new set, so at least their customer service is good. Hopefully I'll have better luck with the next set.
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Feb 13, 2015 00:12
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Did they let you keep the original one? That'd flatten out with a bit of work on the stones and then you'd have two!
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Feb 13, 2015 01:12
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Hypnolobster posted:Did they let you keep the original one? That'd flatten out with a bit of work on the stones and then you'd have two! No they want me to send it back. Don't have another wide plane for it anyway.
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Feb 13, 2015 02:30
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Found this at an antique shop yesterday, Stanley 71 1/2, looks to be a type 4. They were asking $65 for it. Doesn't seem like a bad price looking at similar ones on ebay. Handles and blade were a little rough, barely any rust, looks like it just needs a good clean. The vendor who owns it is going to be there this weekend so I'm going to stop back and see if I can talk him down a bit. I'd love to have one.
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Feb 13, 2015 15:41
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For 65 I'd tell them to go take a hike.
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Feb 13, 2015 16:51
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His Divine Shadow posted:For 65 I'd tell them to go take a hike. I offered $40 expecting to negotiate a bit, but the clerk was only able to offer 10% off without the vendor there. Without the other blades I'll have to invest in some replacements too, haven't checked to see what those run.
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Feb 13, 2015 17:30
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Well, I took the plunge and just spent like $1700 on a G690 and the mobile base. It would have been nice if it was still on sale, but I'll survive.
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Feb 13, 2015 17:45
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Hypnolobster posted:Well, I took the plunge and just spent like $1700 on a G690 and the mobile base. It would have been nice if it was still on sale, but I'll survive. What made you go with the 0690 over the G1023RL? That's been sitting in my cart for a couple days, might pull the trigger on it today.
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Feb 13, 2015 18:16
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bimmian posted:I offered $40 expecting to negotiate a bit, but the clerk was only able to offer 10% off without the vendor there. Without the other blades I'll have to invest in some replacements too, haven't checked to see what those run. At $40, I got a really nice-condition router overall (some rust, but the wood handles are in great shape) plus a blade, so I agree that $65 is a bit higher for that. I camped Ebay for a while, though, and jumped on it as soon as it came up (as Buy it Now).
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Feb 13, 2015 19:17
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His Divine Shadow posted:For 65 I'd tell them to go take a hike. I have to agree. For that price you could get a slightly superior model 71 with all the pieces and maybe multiple cutters from ebay. The only nice thing about that one is the cooler lettering in the casting. If you really need a router now, try Paul Sellers' poor mans router. It's not perfect but it does work and it's very easy to make.
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Feb 13, 2015 19:31
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bimmian posted:What made you go with the 0690 over the G1023RL? That's been sitting in my cart for a couple days, might pull the trigger on it today. Better setup for swapping out the guard/riving knife, bigger table, more rip capacity, longer fence and probably the biggest thing for me is a greater distance from the front of the table to the blade. Means big sexy crosscuts with a sled. The 1023 is actually a slightly better, newer design with a slightly worse motor, it's just smaller in a couple directions. From what I've read, they send out way fewer parts for the 1023. I'd have been super happy with either saw, but the 690 is worth the extra money for me since I'm way way splurging on this purchase to begin with and the bigness is the whole reason I didn't just get the little Rigid from HD.
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Feb 13, 2015 19:38
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My new grizzly g0715p is here 
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Feb 13, 2015 20:31
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So I want to replace the particle board on my workbench. Its steel framed and 24"x72". I'm debating over using 1" MDF or 1"/2x0.5" plywood or 1" solid wood. These are the things I'm going to use the workbench for. Mostly light duty work. -servicing small things like cameras and lenses -servicing medium things like throttle bodies, car stereo, Full tower PCs -mounting a 4-6" shop vise -4" benchtop belt sander -10" drill press -Cleaning tasks involving light oil, light grease, alcohol and mineral spirits Not really for an real woodworking. I like the idea of using MDF since I won't get splinters. However, with plywood and solid wood I could hand sand it smooth and apply an oil finish. I've never built a custom workbench surface before so I'm not sure what material would be optimal. How would MDF hold up against light oil spills vs oil treated plywood and solid wood?
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Feb 13, 2015 20:47
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I'm a fan of using 1/4" Hardboard on top of either MDF or CDX ply. Gives a nice solid work top that's easily replaceable.
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Feb 13, 2015 21:03
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