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DEUCE SLUICE posted:Went to pick up a new motorcycle with my WRX wagon today, 400 miles there and back towing a 4x9 U-Haul motorcycle trailer. It towed it beautifully and I could barely tell it was there -well, except for the 17mpg I got the whole way.  Heck, tow two  14-18mpg highway depending on how fast we were going (65-85)...
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Sep 19, 2011 12:18
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kimbo305 posted:Are they Subies or everything? Pretty much everything, he can get pretty much any brand. You can see a list of brands on the Facebook page I run for them: https://www.facebook.com/bostonmotorsports
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Sep 19, 2011 14:08
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Tongsy posted:What would I need in order to replace the Blowoff Valve in my V7 STI with a stock bypass valve? I know I need the Gasket, and the valve itself, but is there anything else? And it's gone. No more "pshhhhhhh" ricey sound when I lay off the gas.
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Sep 19, 2011 18:42
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I think I lost some lovely heat wrap/tape or something from my 2011 STi. I didn't notice so many wires and colors until the other day. Am I crazy? Anyone with a 2011 care to look under their hood and see if these wires are exposed or clothed? From the front of the car looking at the engine bay these wires are on the very top and left of the intercooler/turbo near the firewall (passenger side). All that aside, I have done a few autocross events now in this car. It is stock but came with short shift kit and SPT catback. After the first weekend of autocross I felt like the car pushed pretty bad and wanted some sways. I decided to get an alignment first and see how that helped. I got -1.5 camber in front and factory for everything else. Apparently this car has 6 degrees castor stock. This car is not a daily driver, so I guess I could have possibly gone more on the camber (shop guy claimed I could get ~2 degrees) but I decided not to. Getting to the point: what a difference. I can slide the rear out now with a little early braking and late gas in a corner. When I just want grip it turns in much more neutral. I never expected this magnitude of difference. Sways are still in my future, but that was my experience for what little it might be worth. Car has 26xx miles and has been great thus far. Thanks.
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Sep 20, 2011 03:21
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Where the gently caress can I buy the heaters/elements for the side mirrors? My drivers side one was loose, so I took it apart to fix it up and saw the two wires there. Figured I'd just buy the parts and stick them in, but I can't find that poo poo anywhere.Tongsy posted:New deck I put in just now This is the one I got. It's pretty nice. I highly recommend doing the rear USB mod if you use an ipod/phone/toaster in that front USB. I always hated the wire being in the way of either my shifter, or the screen. There's a write up on it here. Here's some photos when I did it:    That soldering isn't complete in the pic, but it is a very easy thing to do. I used hot glue to seal it afterwards. I don't have a pic on hand of the install but I have the 06 so I just ran the new USB cable up and out the edge of the clock pod then taped it in place. My iphone sits in a windshield mount so I just plug it into a USB cable and run it to that. Very clean and no wires hanging around. The nice thing about it is that you can still use the front one if you need to for some reason (but not at the same time as the back). itskage fucked around with this message at 04:04 on Sep 20, 2011 |
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Sep 20, 2011 04:01
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The SI-Drive in my '07 Spec B Legacy was acting up the other day (refusing to switch modes, 'I' worked, but getting it into S from I, or S# from I or S was proving tough), so I figured there might be some gunk under there. Well, some gentle upward pulling on the knob resulted in the knob coming off.... but it was because it snapped the shaft off. After doing some research, it looks like there's a retaining clip on the underside of the SI-Drive unit. Whoops. Funny, the shaft has 3/16" thick plastic running a full circle, and it snapped with relatively little effort. Powerful weak plastic. So the only question that remains is how much this is going to cost me. *sigh* I did put some RallyArmour mudflaps on recently, as well as replacing my interior lights with LED panels. The LED panels are bright as poo poo (a pic attached, but not mine), and I bought them from here: http://www.fastwrx.com/ledinli.html -- $135 got me map lights, a dome light, and the puddle lights for the front doors. They're pretty high quality panels, too. They're cut to fit the openings, and they're powered with a dummy bulb that uses wires from either side. So you tuck the bulb in, and then secure the panels in the front with the wires behind them. The map lights are 3x3 I believe, the dome is 4x4 or 5x5, and the puddle lights are little LED panels built into the bulbs, so they're just 2x2. Big difference in the amount of light coming out of them though. Take that, night vision. Fantastipotamus fucked around with this message at 13:10 on Sep 20, 2011 |
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Sep 20, 2011 13:06
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:I think I lost some lovely heat wrap/tape or something from my 2011 STi. I didn't notice so many wires and colors until the other day. Am I crazy? Anyone with a 2011 care to look under their hood and see if these wires are exposed or clothed? From the front of the car looking at the engine bay these wires are on the very top and left of the intercooler/turbo near the firewall (passenger side). I have a 2011 not-STi, those wires are all exposed and kind of wrong looking as well.
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Sep 20, 2011 13:40
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sanchez posted:I have a 2011 not-STi, those wires are all exposed and kind of wrong looking as well. Thanks for looking. Some google images show a cover over those on some 08+ STi. I don't know if its an 11 though... Might just go down to the parts store and find some high heat tape. It gets pretty hot right there in my car though so choosing the right tape will be important. I think electrical tape will melt, but I don't really know much about tape. One of those nylon/velcro CV boot covers might work...
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Sep 20, 2011 14:43
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113900 miles, RIP original radiator. So, on that question, replacement radiators. http://www.oakos.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=355&Product_Code=MMRAD-WRX-01&Category_Code=230 Mishimoto radiator is cheaper than OEM but all aluminum. They seem to be generally well regarded. Any downside of going this route? bull3964 fucked around with this message at 15:42 on Sep 20, 2011 |
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Sep 20, 2011 15:21
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bull3964 posted:113900 miles, RIP original radiator. As for the SI drive, I don't even want to think what that will cost. The jack handle (no, not the jack, the handle) in an LGT is like $70.
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Sep 20, 2011 16:31
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What are the good wrx aftermarket sites? When I had my mustang I bought things from 2 or 3 good sites that had good prices and were trustworthy. I am just wondering what the wrx version of those sites are. My only interests right now is an exhaust, maybe a larger intercooler if it is an easy swap and doesn't require tuning. I would like to do a full exhaust but the nearest tuner is hundreds of miles away so I am stuck with simple bolt ons. Any recommendations for aftermarket exhausts? I think the turboxs one sounds good but I think of ebay meets paul walkers eclipse in F&F when I think of their company. There are some others like perrin and invida but I don't know much about the import world coming from domestic v8s.
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Sep 20, 2011 16:36
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Airbone Operation posted:What are the good wrx aftermarket sites? When I had my mustang I bought things from 2 or 3 good sites that had good prices and were trustworthy. I am just wondering what the wrx version of those sites are. I mentioned earlier, I shop with https://www.bostonmotorsports.com but they dont have a site really, but the best prices. Also: https://www.fastwrx.com
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Sep 20, 2011 16:42
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nm posted:I've heard Koyos are better (less likely to leak). That's why I have one. Yeah, but in the less likely to leak game I'm still assuming assuming the OEM is worst out of all of them. I'm not going to be tracking the car, it's going to see an occasional autocross and that's it. The Koyo is a full $100 more than the Mishimoto. This is my secondary car with nearly 120k miles on it, I don't really want to do overkill at this point. If the Mishimoto is junk and prone to failure, that's one thing. But if it's at least, or slightly more reliable than OEM, that's good enough for me.
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Sep 20, 2011 16:57
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Someone on NASIOC did a test and found that the Mishimoto cools worse than the OEM radiator. I wouldn't use one on a track car but it's probably fine on an older DD.
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Sep 20, 2011 18:12
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blargle posted:Someone on NASIOC did a test and found that the Mishimoto cools worse than the OEM radiator. I wouldn't use one on a track car but it's probably fine on an older DD. Oh? Poo. I ended up buying one a while back for the daily in hopes it was slightly better than the stock unit. Then again, "Someone on NASIOC" 
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Sep 20, 2011 18:14
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bull3964 posted:Yeah, but in the less likely to leak game I'm still assuming assuming the OEM is worst out of all of them. When I asked here, jamal said koyo. A poorly built AL radiator (ndon't know if the mishimoto is included in that) will leak sooner than the OEM. I mean, your OEM make it 113k mi, so it wasn't that terrible.
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Sep 20, 2011 18:57
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Yup, I'm waiting for everyone to chime in. I just want it back on the road at least as good as stock as cheaply as possible. OEM radiators look to be around $315 or so and I don't really want to pull a used one for fear of having to do this all over again when it splits. I'm not in a huge rush since I have my '11 to drive around in. I'm just annoyed that I figured out my scrape sound was rust instead of a wheel bearing and started driving the car more only to have this happen. I'm also glad the crack was on top and clearly visible so I didn't have to go leak hunting. I probably only lost an ounce or so of coolant. It's funny how few people work on cars. I mentioned at work that my radiator went and everyone cringes and goes "Oh, that's terrible, are you going to fix it on such an old car?" They just shake their head and say they don't trust themselves when I mention it's just two hoses and two bolts to swap them out and it will take me less than an hour to fix.
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Sep 20, 2011 19:03
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I've always found it a little irritating how some people would give me the "old yeller" eyes whenever I mentioned needing to do any work on my old car, which was a 97. "No Pa, he's my dog, I'll do it." *holds shotgun to crankcrase*
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Sep 20, 2011 20:51
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It makes me wonder how much money people who don't like cars waste on them. If I wanted a transportation appliance I'd buy a late 90's accord and drive it into the ground rather than buying new every 4-5 years like most people seem to.
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Sep 20, 2011 21:00
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Is there a lightweight driveshaft for the 2008-2011 wrxs? I found plenty for earlier WRXs and new STI/6MT but nothing for new WRX/5MT.
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Sep 20, 2011 21:44
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Airbone Operation posted:Is there a lightweight driveshaft for the 2008-2011 wrxs? I found plenty for earlier WRXs and new STI/6MT but nothing for new WRX/5MT. You planning on making your wrx into a full on race car?
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Sep 21, 2011 00:58
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No but an aluminum drive shaft is usually one of the best bangs for the buck and a quick easy install.
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Sep 21, 2011 03:08
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I don't think I've heard of that being a common upgrade on most cars. The only WRXes I've seen with carbon driveshafts have needed them to deal with monstrous power. I'd just focus on getting an open source tune first. Ain't nothing better than picking up a few dozen horsepower for changing the software.
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Sep 21, 2011 04:02
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I don't think I've heard of that being a common upgrade on most cars. The only WRXes I've seen with carbon driveshafts have needed them to deal with monstrous power. It is a pretty basic mod on mustangs because for 300 bucks or less you get lower ETs and higher trap speed. Not by a big margin, usually around .1 and a few mph, but I figureon a wrx that is a dog south of 4500rpms less rotating mass would help out a bit.
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Sep 21, 2011 12:57
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Kageneko posted:This is the one I got. It's pretty nice. I highly recommend doing the rear USB mod if you use an ipod/phone/toaster in that front USB. I always hated the wire being in the way of either my shifter, or the screen. Awesome, thank you. The lack of rear usb port is a bit disappointing
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Sep 21, 2011 13:31
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Airbone Operation posted:It is a pretty basic mod on mustangs because for 300 bucks or less you get lower ETs and higher trap speed. Not by a big margin, usually around .1 and a few mph, but I figureon a wrx that is a dog south of 4500rpms less rotating mass would help out a bit.
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Sep 21, 2011 14:05
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so first goal should be stage 1 access port to liven it up?
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Sep 21, 2011 14:14
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Airbone Operation posted:so first goal should be stage 1 access port to liven it up? Yeah, I wouldn't worry about a lighter driveshaft until you're past the typical flash/downpipe setup.
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Sep 21, 2011 18:04
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Airbone Operation posted:It is a pretty basic mod on mustangs because for 300 bucks or less you get lower ETs and higher trap speed. Not by a big margin, usually around .1 and a few mph, but I figureon a wrx that is a dog south of 4500rpms less rotating mass would help out a bit. That is because mustang drive shafts (especially for fox bodies) are basically a dime a dozen, they're single piece and the factory one in my 85 was both weak and heavy and with how old they are Ujoints being bad or sloppy is a pretty common problem.
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Sep 21, 2011 20:11
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I'm about to buy an 05 STI and need some inspection advice. The car is out of state so I'm asking the buyer to take it to a dealer and have them call me. I want a compression test and ??? If they confirm the motor is unmolested and they give me compression results what numbers are good for this car? I'm also concerned about the diffs. Is there a non invasive procedure to check that they are ok? Any other thoughts?
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Sep 21, 2011 21:43
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Airbone Operation posted:so first goal should be stage 1 access port to liven it up?
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Sep 21, 2011 21:52
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Thats why I was looking to lessen driveline mass! I guess I will just do a turbo back exhaust first and go from there.
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Sep 21, 2011 22:13
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Airbone Operation posted:Thats why I was looking to lessen driveline mass! I guess I will just do a turbo back exhaust first and go from there. I hope you don't plan on putting a downpipe on your car before you at least get an Accessport...
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Sep 21, 2011 22:20
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Is that not part of the accessport stages?
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Sep 21, 2011 22:36
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Airbone Operation posted:Is that not part of the accessport stages? Stage 2 on an accessport is made for a downpipe. I thought you were still determining whether an AP was a good first step for you.
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Sep 21, 2011 22:49
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Well I thought the accessport tunes required mods. I am not buying car stuff any time soon I am just trying to figure out what to get and when. I will get the AP first and then get the mods installed. I don't want to ruin poo poo. Can I basically skip step 1 and just go turbo back exhaust and what else, intake? intercooler? I don't know what else stage 2 is.
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Sep 21, 2011 22:54
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Stage 1 is just a flash. Stage 2 is flash + turbo-back exhaust.
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Sep 21, 2011 22:59
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Airbone Operation posted:Well I thought the accessport tunes required mods. I am not buying car stuff any time soon I am just trying to figure out what to get and when. I will get the AP first and then get the mods installed. I don't want to ruin poo poo. Can I basically skip step 1 and just go turbo back exhaust and what else, intake? intercooler? I don't know what else stage 2 is. If "step 1" is to get an Accessport than no, you need at least an accessport to run a downpipe, intake etc. If you get an AP with no other mods you will see an increase in hp and tq with no other mods. What year is your car?
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Sep 21, 2011 23:19
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2011. Step 1 meant Stage 1. Like can I just get the accessport and install everything required for stage two and go from there? If I am going to do the post turbo exhaust I am going to do it all. Why half rear end it with just a cat back?
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Sep 21, 2011 23:28
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the accessport has a flash for otherwise stock cars which will get you a few hp. changing the downpipe means you HAVE to reflash the ecu either with a tuner on the dyno or using an accessport map. you can have the car tuned with or without an accessport. Intake+downpipe+tune is going to get you a good 90% of what's possible on the stock turbo. you can change the injectors, headers, intercooler, etc, but it's not really worth it unless you're putting on a bigger turbo too.
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Sep 21, 2011 23:39
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