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Raluek posted:I have a bit of a strange request. If anyone has a gen 2 or a gen 3 Prius with a tonneau cover (that pull out cargo cover in the rear hatch), can you measure the cover and post the overall length of the bar the cover stores in? My friend just bought a gen 2 Prius that came with no cover, and an eBay cover to match. However, the cover she received doesn't seem to fit (like, at all; it's several inches too long to fit in its pocket) so we're thinking it is probably from a gen 3 Prius. The seller is being a butt, though, and is insisting it's correct. So I'd like to have an actual factual measurement I can compare this one against. 
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Sep 29, 2016 22:03
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CharlieWhiskey posted:Did you remove the left side deck board? https://youtu.be/B93PlDb8Y6o Yeah the issue is that it's much too long for the notches where it installs behind the seats. If one end is placed in its notch, the other end overshoots. Looking at that video, I'm pretty sure that the gen 3 shown in the video has a wider cover than the gen 2 we have, which re-enforces my suspicion that the seller sent the wrong thing. Either that, or maybe the rear panels where it mounts are out of position in this car. scuz posted:We happen to have one of these in our garage from a 2009 Prius (gen2). I'll measure it when you get home, if it's the size you need I can see if my girlfriend wants anything for it. The old Prius got totalled That would be great, sorry to hear about your car. E: My friend just went to the nearest Toyota dealer, and they had a gen 3 that they let her measure. The one she was sent is the same length as a gen 3 cover, so as long as Scuz's measurement is shorter it sounds like we have this thing licked. Raluek fucked around with this message at 22:23 on Sep 29, 2016 |
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Sep 29, 2016 22:17
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Just bought a used 2012 Prius 2. Was all happy and poo poo until I drove it home, and the length of the drive brought up a weird issue I didn't consider: it loving makes my foot hurt to drive it. Like, the arch of my (very flat) foot. And it wasn't like I drove it for an hour; like 30 mins or so. I was wearing (admittedly crap) sneakers, but is there a way for the dealer to fix this? I was driving an old Subaru before, and the gas/brake on the Prius seems like they're angled higher, and altogether higher off the floor. I adjusted my seat and it didn't fix anything. I'm super stressed out, as I traded my Subaru in when I bought the Prius. I don't want to feel rushed to get a new car but I also would rather not deal with sharing my gf's car as we work *wildly* different schedules, and I know September is a good time to purchase a car. help me goons, I dunno what I'm doing
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Sep 30, 2016 01:19
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I was futzing around in the engine bay of my daughter's 05 Kia Spectra and it seems like there is a fair amount of play in the throttle cable. How much is normal and how do I measure what the actual tension is?
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Sep 30, 2016 03:38
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Push the gas pedal from inside. Does it feel normal?
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Sep 30, 2016 03:44
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I think so but that doesn't necessarily mean the throttle plate is opening completely does it?
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Sep 30, 2016 03:52
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Have somebody press the pedal for you while you watch the plate. But not every throttle body opens completely, oddly enough. I can't remember where I came across this, but it's true.
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Sep 30, 2016 04:10
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Yeah thats a facepalm moment fur me. I was planning in cleaning the throttle body and IAC valve anyhow so I'll take a look then. Still it seems like it doesn't make sense to me that there should be any meaningful slack in the cable.
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Sep 30, 2016 04:24
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vulturesrow posted:Yeah thats a facepalm moment fur me. I was planning in cleaning the throttle body and IAC valve anyhow so I'll take a look then. Still it seems like it doesn't make sense to me that there should be any meaningful slack in the cable. Slack in the cable is to help in routing it some way. Unless it's just the cable stretching out over time . But I see that more on cables used for brakes then throttle cables.
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Sep 30, 2016 05:24
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As it turns out you can find some really good info in the Chilton manual that came with the car.  Apparently the specs for this car are 3/64 to 1/8 in of freeplay. Pretty sure there is more than that in the cable in question.
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Sep 30, 2016 05:37
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How much should window tinting cost? I just got a quote for $390 for a Cayman S for 3M Color stable tint, which seems expensive for a car with 2 windows and a hatch.
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Sep 30, 2016 16:48
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Depends on where you live, because that sounds ~$75 more than it should to me, but it could be normal for your area. However, a well done tint is worth every penny, any bubbles or lines from an amateur install will drive you crazy every time you see them. Plus, you want them to treat your interior well Is there any realistic way to combat torque-steer? A million forums posts say it's about stiffening the body and beefing up the suspension and all of that stuff, but it's caused by the forces on the different sized drive shafts in a transaxle, so it seems more tilting at windmills without modifying the transmission itself
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Sep 30, 2016 17:52
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One of the big contributors to torque steer is unequal driveshaft angles. The gyroscopic moments of the angled CV axle and the wheel add together, producing a turning force on the wheel. If the angles are the same, the two turning forces cancel out; if not, one will be greater and you'll get a net turning force on the whole steering rack. Most modern FWD cars solve this by using a jackshaft to mount the first CV joint of the longer axle farther outboard to match the shorter one, which makes the angles the same and eliminates that imbalanced moment. There's still small effects that cause torque steer (different torsional stiffness due to the added jackshaft length, imperfect differentials, etc) but that's one of the biggest ones.
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Sep 30, 2016 18:07
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The Door Frame posted:Depends on where you live, because that sounds ~$75 more than it should to me, but it could be normal for your area. However, a well done tint is worth every penny, any bubbles or lines from an amateur install will drive you crazy every time you see them. Plus, you want them to treat your interior well Yeah, buy a RWD car like God intended.  On a serious note, there are ways to mitigate it; however, after once you're pushing 200+ HP to the front wheels, you're eventually going to just wind up having to deal with it. The tilting at windmills is a very apt metaphor.
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Sep 30, 2016 18:16
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porkswordonboard posted:Just bought a used 2012 Prius 2. Was all happy and poo poo until I drove it home, and the length of the drive brought up a weird issue I didn't consider: it loving makes my foot hurt to drive it. Like, the arch of my (very flat) foot. And it wasn't like I drove it for an hour; like 30 mins or so. I was wearing (admittedly crap) sneakers, but is there a way for the dealer to fix this? I was driving an old Subaru before, and the gas/brake on the Prius seems like they're angled higher, and altogether higher off the floor. I adjusted my seat and it didn't fix anything. Relax. When you've done something that way for a long time, the first time you do it this way, you may use some muscles that have had an easy life and they will bitch for the first week until they get used to the new way. Once you've gotten used to this way, you will be fine It's fair to assume that Toyota hasn't made a car that will hurt the millions of drivers that drive them and, assuming you don;t have deformed feet, they won't hurt you too. Try a more supportive shoe until you are used to it.
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Sep 30, 2016 18:20
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Does the Prius have a floor hinged gas pedal? E: it doesn't
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Sep 30, 2016 18:23
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2008 Honda Fit Sport, Automatic. 120k miles or so. Two problems: 1. My engine runs sorta rough when I start the car completely cold, and switching from park to drive will usually kill the engine unless it's had time to warm up. This also happens when decelerating to a stop. Once the car has been running for a while, the problem goes away completely. I thought it could be an AT fluid issue, so I did a drain and fill because I was due for that anyway. Shifting has improved, but the problem continues. I'm thinking now that it might be a spark plug issue? 2. The splash shield underneath the car is entirely gone now. 2 months into owning this car my wife clipped a curb and bent the front bumper panel. This slight bend gradually started popping off the plastic clips holding the splash guard on, which I zip-tied back up after they'd lose 2 or 3. The whole thing ended up coming off on the freeway, and now it's gone. I'm thinking that living without a splash shield is a Very Bad Idea, and wondering what the cheapest way to replace it properly would be?
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Sep 30, 2016 18:26
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Hi. Where can I find information about negotiating the purchase of a new car? I recall a thread/guide on this topic, but my search comes up short.
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Sep 30, 2016 19:51
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Phone posted:Yeah, buy a RWD car like God intended. But what if you buy a rear engined car like  I figured it was fruitless, but was really hoping that there was some sort of truth behind all of the broscience The Door Frame fucked around with this message at 20:52 on Sep 30, 2016 |
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Sep 30, 2016 20:45
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New usdm civic type R is going to be a 350ish hp front wheel drive car, and supposedly has very tame torque steer characteristics. They use a double knuckle system like ford does iirc.
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Sep 30, 2016 20:53
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canyoneer posted:2008 Honda Fit Sport, Automatic. 120k miles or so. Well, if you've never done the plugs then it's about time to change them anyway.
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Sep 30, 2016 21:02
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Jam2 posted:Hi. Where can I find information about negotiating the purchase of a new car? I recall a thread/guide on this topic, but my search comes up short. Edmunds has a lot of guides if you search around.
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Sep 30, 2016 21:43
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RillAkBea posted:Thanks for all the magnet advice guys. Update on the magnet car, the problem has sort of resolved itself, in that my friend crashed it today and it's gone to the body shop for more pressing repairs.
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Sep 30, 2016 22:37
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RillAkBea posted:Update on the magnet car, the problem has sort of resolved itself, in that my friend crashed it today and it's gone to the body shop for more pressing repairs. *at post-repair inspection* "What's that magnet for?" "That...that was there when it was brought in." "No it wasn't! Get that thing off of there or I'm not paying a dime!"
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Sep 30, 2016 22:39
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RillAkBea posted:Update on the magnet car, the problem has sort of resolved itself, in that my friend crashed it today and it's gone to the body shop for more pressing repairs. I think the true irony here is that it was a learner magnet badge.
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Sep 30, 2016 22:54
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A slight toe out helps with torque steer along with stiffer engine mounts and playing with engine mounts for drivetrain alignment.
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Sep 30, 2016 23:10
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I've got some grinding in my rear brakes on my Acura TSX (2010). They are disc brakes, factory. It's super loud while I'm in the car, though I'm a little embarrassed to think people outside can hear the grinding. I'm pretty sure it's the brake pads back there as I haven't had them replaced since I bought the car (just the front in 2015). The rear passenger side brake seems to be where most of the grinding is coming from. While I'm sure it's the brake pads, I've also noticed even after releasing the brakes, a quieter scraping noise as I accelerate, and that's what is making me a little more concerned. I'm taking the car in to have the pads replaced and the rotors turned tomorrow, but given the scraping noise even when the brakes aren't engaged, is there something else I should be concerned about? Maybe the hardware is seizing and causing the calipers to not release all the way? I'm asking this mainly because I'd like to know what to do and what to refuse if the mechanic calls me and says something else is wrong, like whether or not he's trying to upcharge me for a manufactured extra problem that doesn't actually exist. I want to do what's needed, of course. ne: This grinding only started AFTER I picked my car up from the airport parking valet upon returning from out of town. It wasn't present before that. Could it have been something they did or something that happened while the car was sitting in the garage for a week, or is this just purely coincidental and I'm being too paranoid?
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Sep 30, 2016 23:22
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spog posted:Relax. Thanks, I managed to calm my tits, but it's good to hear it from someone else. Car stuff is just really stressful for me I guess  But overall very pleased with the Prius! Especially the heated seats, goddamn that's nice for someone who generates a negative amount of body heat.
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Oct 1, 2016 00:39
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scuz posted:We happen to have one of these in our garage from a 2009 Prius (gen2). I'll measure it when you get home, if it's the size you need I can see if my girlfriend wants anything for it. The old Prius got totalled Hey Scuz, any word?
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Oct 1, 2016 01:31
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PaintVagrant posted:New usdm civic type R is going to be a 350ish hp front wheel drive car, and supposedly has very tame torque steer characteristics. They use a double knuckle system like ford does iirc. This little change makes +250 BHP not fight the driver? That almost seems too simple, but a bunch of publications talk about how it "eliminates torque steer" so it has to be a better fix than severely limiting boost in low gears and relying on ESC to compensate above first or second 
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Oct 1, 2016 04:34
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The Door Frame posted:This little change makes +250 BHP not fight the driver? That almost seems too simple, but a bunch of publications talk about how it "eliminates torque steer" so it has to be a better fix than severely limiting boost in low gears and relying on ESC to compensate above first or second That's not really what I would consider a "little change." That looks pretty significant. If it's one thing that motorcycles taught me, it's that even "little" suspension changes can be a big loving deal.
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Oct 1, 2016 04:58
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That is definitely true, but looking at how wildly varied different suspension layouts can be, it's weird to think that installing the knuckle backwards on a MacPherson strut turned out to be such a revolutionary leap in combating a problem endemic to the dominant engine layout of the past +30 years. Especially with how long the MacPherson strut has been used in the automotive industry
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Oct 1, 2016 06:14
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The Door Frame posted:That is definitely true, but looking at how wildly varied different suspension layouts can be, it's weird to think that installing the knuckle backwards on a MacPherson strut turned out to be such a revolutionary leap in combating a problem endemic to the dominant engine layout of the past +30 years. Especially with how long the MacPherson strut has been used in the automotive industry I'm sure there's a lot of give and take there. Looking at that geometry I'd think that the MacPherson would still probably dominate in the hard or banked corners. The elimination of the LCA ball joint is a really big deal though.
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Oct 1, 2016 07:01
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I have a 1984 chevy P30 van that's been modified into a taco truck. I was driving home from my gig tonight, and as I was pushing the clutch down to shift gears I heard a loud snap and the clutch pedal dropped to the floor. I was able to nurse it home in first gear but I'm afraid of the damage. I'm not certain, but I think I either blew out my linkage or something else much worse. How hosed am i?
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Oct 1, 2016 09:10
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Probably just the cable snapped, seems most likely anyway. Btw if you hit just the right rpm you can actually shift without clutch. Shouldn't do it too often but can be used to get into second in situations like this.
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Oct 1, 2016 09:30
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The Door Frame posted:This little change makes +250 BHP not fight the driver? That almost seems too simple, but a bunch of publications talk about how it "eliminates torque steer" so it has to be a better fix than severely limiting boost in low gears and relying on ESC to compensate above first or second I assume there's lots of electronic fuckery compensating for the torque steer as well.
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Oct 1, 2016 13:29
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spankmeister posted:Probably just the cable snapped, seems most likely anyway. The transmission on this truck is built for that and I know I could probably go up in gear without issue. It's getting it back into a lower gear that would have been trouble. I'm pretty sure it's linkage, but I can't get to it to actually verify. The pedal is connected to a rod that penetrates through the floorboard. There's an engine cover in the cab. I can pull it off and see the penetration, but I can't actually get to it from there to manipulate it. It looks like something that I might have to pull the wheel well off to really get at.
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Oct 1, 2016 15:59
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Raluek posted:Hey Scuz, any word? poo poo! Yes, pay for shipping and its yours. I'll get measurements in a second but it's out of a 2007 Prius.
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Oct 1, 2016 18:34
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scuz posted:poo poo! Yes, pay for shipping and its yours. I'll get measurements in a second but it's out of a 2007 Prius. That's an attractive offer. We're still trying to convince the ebay seller that he sent the wrong thing, but once we get that sorted out I'll contact you. Thanks dude.
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Oct 1, 2016 23:11
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Stupid newbie incoming Was recharging my AC, following the instructions. The initial pressure was just below the mark, and the compressor pulley was engaged continuously. For awhile the pressure reading didn't change after filling, but then the compressor started switching on and off and the gauge would go red while it was off. At first that freaked me out so I shut it all down, but after reading the instructions again (about taking readings only when the pulley is engaged), it sounds like that's expected?
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Oct 1, 2016 23:18
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