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SRM posted:I'm so happy to see Slimnoid and PV posting painted mans again. Can't wait to see that crazy converted Bloodcrusher painted up! It's not like I haven't been painting or anything, I'm just loving lazy about taking photos (and I'm not really satisfied with my photo quality but w/e). I should just go and take pics of the stuff I've painted in the past year. gently caress it, y'know?
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Aug 25, 2016 21:44
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Slimnoid posted:It's not like I haven't been painting or anything, I'm just loving lazy about taking photos (and I'm not really satisfied with my photo quality but w/e). You should, your models are dope. And unsatisfactory photo quality has never stopped me before!
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Aug 25, 2016 22:14
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Slimnoid, man, those are some rad-as-gently caress evil dorfs!
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Aug 25, 2016 22:52
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Those Dorfs are pretty sick, really nice work. Where did you get that rider for the Juggernaut conversion btw? Been looking for something similar for a conversion of my own.
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Aug 25, 2016 23:34
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SteelMentor posted:Those Dorfs are pretty sick, really nice work. Where did you get that rider for the Juggernaut conversion btw? Been looking for something similar for a conversion of my own. Ursula, dwarven bear rider from Reaper. Fair warning, she's attached to the bear so it's a total bitch and a half to cut her off from it. There was no salvaging what was left of the bear by the time I was done.
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Aug 25, 2016 23:39
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Slimnoid posted:Ursula, dwarven bear rider from Reaper. Fair warning, she's attached to the bear so it's a total bitch and a half to cut her off from it. There was no salvaging what was left of the bear by the time I was done. Cheers for the link. Don't think I'll give to much worry about the bear, looks a little strange to me, maybe just a bit too on the thin side for my tastes. How does the rider compare in scale with the rest of your Dorfs, looks a little on the small side in the pics.
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Aug 25, 2016 23:49
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SteelMentor posted:Cheers for the link. Don't think I'll give to much worry about the bear, looks a little strange to me, maybe just a bit too on the thin side for my tastes. How does the rider compare in scale with the rest of your Dorfs, looks a little on the small side in the pics. She's about the same size as the dorfs, actually. Maybe just a smidge taller, though it's hard to tell since she's sitting down and the ones I have are standing.
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Aug 26, 2016 01:20
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Does it help if you shock Bonesinium or whatever in cold/ice water after boiling it? This thread has taught me that it's a bit special but not bad if you know what you're dealing with.
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Aug 26, 2016 02:15
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GoodBee posted:Does it help if you shock Bonesinium or whatever in cold/ice water after boiling it? I just straightened out a few smooth criminal bones minis. Ice water after the boiling water worked perfectly.
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Aug 26, 2016 04:00
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GoodBee posted:Does it help if you shock Bonesinium or whatever in cold/ice water after boiling it? It's not always necessary, but sometimes the bend has gotten "baked in" and you need the shock so it'll stay straight. Other times, just boiling will get it to straighten up and fly right.
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Aug 26, 2016 06:38
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I tried base coating with my Patriot 105 again, and airbrush primer + liquitex medium worked much better than water. However, I tried to throw some paint on the bottom of the resin bases I'm using. they're perfectly flat, and the paint didn't want to stick. They've been washed to remove any chemicals from casting, and the paint stuck to the details on the top just fine. Is the problem just the flat plane? Should I score the surfaces with sand paper first? It's not a huge deal, since I can just brush in some black and it won't ever show, but I was curious if there's a common workaround.
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Aug 26, 2016 15:47
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Pictures are not the best but I am happy with this paintjob. First model I have tried the salt technique of weathering on and it turned out pretty well (if a little excessive on the rust). That and I am just pleased to have found and done up a war rig model.   
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Aug 26, 2016 15:50
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Vlaada Chvatil posted:I tried base coating with my Patriot 105 again, and airbrush primer + liquitex medium worked much better than water. I use liquitex too, and from my experience it's pretty stubborn about sticking to smooth surfaces. I usually just add a bit more primer to the smoother areas to provide a grainy texture for it to "bite" into. Sandpaper should work just as well.
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Aug 26, 2016 17:30
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nesbit37 posted:Pictures are not the best but I am happy with this paintjob. First model I have tried the salt technique of weathering on and it turned out pretty well (if a little excessive on the rust). That and I am just pleased to have found and done up a war rig model. Witnessed!!!!
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Aug 26, 2016 17:43
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Neurolimal posted:I use liquitex too, and from my experience it's pretty stubborn about sticking to smooth surfaces. I usually just add a bit more primer to the smoother areas to provide a grainy texture for it to "bite" into. Sandpaper should work just as well. Thanks. I'll just scratch them with some rough paper before I try again. I'm not super concerned about it at this point since it's just the undersides, but I'll pay attention if I ever need to paint flat surfaces that will be visible.
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Aug 26, 2016 18:06
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When I went to Warhammer World back in April, I got to play in a big Heresy game. I ran my old school Ultras using Legion rules and I proxied my Armorcast Whirlwind with the rules for the Scorpius. In one round of shooting I wiped out an entire 20 man Iron Warriors tactical squad. Needless to say, I immediately went over to the Forgeworld store and picked up the real deal for my Heresy Ultras! I'm really happy with how this tank came out, aside from the slightly off kilter dozer blade that I forgot to straighten in hot water.        I also think all the checks and greco-roman trim make it look like a Greek diner on treads, which is also good.
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Aug 26, 2016 19:16
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Might be impossible and this might be a dumb question but I'm gonna be painting a Nothing Beast for a Malifaux crew and given its fluff description of basically being a living black hole I'd like to attempt something for it. Is there anyway to paint a reflective surface onto a miniature like a chrome kind of deal? I'm guessing probably not but I just wanted to get for this paint idea I had
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Aug 26, 2016 22:14
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For chrome or highly reflective finishes you're going to want to try out a lacquer based paint (most common for non-car painting being Alclad 2). If you do try them out remember these: 1. It's highly toxic; spray/brush outside or in a paint booth and with a mask 2. Only use on well-primed (with a lacquer primer, easy to find in rattle can form) models; when curing it can damage bare plastic/resin/rubber 3. When layering different types of paint always go Lacquer -> Enamel -> Acrylic, as the prior will destroy the latter layer if placed on top. 4. Not mandatory, but a black gloss priming will do wonders for reflectivity Obviously that all sounds intimidating, but the result can look gorgeous (its whats used on model cars) and the resulting coat is usually harder than the plastic itself and needs no/little sealing. 
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Aug 26, 2016 22:30
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Go the other way and paint it in super black. 
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Aug 26, 2016 22:43
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Slimnoid posted:She's about the same size as the dorfs, actually. Maybe just a smidge taller, though it's hard to tell since she's sitting down and the ones I have are standing. That Ursula dwarf figure is also available in metal, where the dwarf might be separate from the bear (though I'm not positive on that). But it's also more expensive, and it seems like Reaper Mini's Boneyard is not available at this time for buying individual parts.
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Aug 26, 2016 23:20
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Dr. VooDoo posted:Might be impossible and this might be a dumb question but I'm gonna be painting a Nothing Beast for a Malifaux crew and given its fluff description of basically being a living black hole I'd like to attempt something for it. Is there anyway to paint a reflective surface onto a miniature like a chrome kind of deal? I'm guessing probably not but I just wanted to get for this paint idea I had If you feel like painting from a fixed perspective, you could attempt something like gravitational lensing. I could also see going crazy with the airbrush and doing a nebula/starscape with washing to bring out the ripples on the model.
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Aug 26, 2016 23:27
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Dr. VooDoo posted:Might be impossible and this might be a dumb question but I'm gonna be painting a Nothing Beast for a Malifaux crew and given its fluff description of basically being a living black hole I'd like to attempt something for it. Is there anyway to paint a reflective surface onto a miniature like a chrome kind of deal? I'm guessing probably not but I just wanted to get for this paint idea I had Google "Non-Metallic Metal" and be amazed at what's possible here.
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Aug 26, 2016 23:28
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Takkaryx posted:If you feel like painting from a fixed perspective, you could attempt something like gravitational lensing. I could also see going crazy with the airbrush and doing a nebula/starscape with washing to bring out the ripples on the model. This is the effect I'm actually trying to create, a sort of illusion of it. I want to use reflective surfaces around the edges to give an impression of warping/bending light shafts
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Aug 27, 2016 00:08
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I would start defining a center area as the black hole itself, and block that off as pure black. Then, an even spattering of off-white/ warm white stars on the periphery of the model, with some blue/purple nebula like shapes. The rim of the black hole itself I'd start blending/smearing the shapes in circular motions around the horizon. Make it irregular, but denser then the periphery, as the area on the horizon is actually showing "more" light due to it showing the space behind the hole in addition to what's in a line past the horizon from the perspective of the viewer. Looking at the model in question, I would have it on the hole effect on the front of the model, and maybe make the carapace on its back something more solid and tying in with the theme of the army.
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Aug 27, 2016 01:50
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I'm not sure if this is the right thread, but everyone in this thread seems to use the Badger 105 Patriot so here goes. I've got a sticky trigger! This morning I fully disassembled my Patriot, cleaned it thoroughly, and reassembled. I've only done this a couple times, so I follow along with YouTube videos. Everything went fine, except that now the trigger feels "off" and sometimes sticks when I depress it. I can't seem to find anything that would be causing this, nor did googling it on my phone for five minutes help either. Any ideas?
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Aug 27, 2016 18:16
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Vlaada Chvatil posted:I'm not sure if this is the right thread, but everyone in this thread seems to use the Badger 105 Patriot so here goes. Could be paint in the valve. You can apparently disassemble it, but I've never done so. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i67L7BQGTqw
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Aug 27, 2016 19:09
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TTerrible posted:Could be paint in the valve. You can apparently disassemble it, but I've never done so. There's a pretty good chance this is it. My degreaser melted the plumbers tape I had used for the quick release (whoops!), and while I thought I had scrubbed it all off, some may have gotten inside the valve. I'll give disassembling and cleaning the valve a shot and report back how it goes. Edit: Hard to say if that fixed it, because I am a ham handed ogre who deformed my needle chuck with a pair of pliers and have to wait a week for the replacement part. I wasn't expecting "the AK-47 of airbrushes" to be so delicate! Vlaada Chvatil fucked around with this message at 21:34 on Aug 27, 2016 |
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Aug 27, 2016 19:36
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Vlaada Chvatil posted:There's a pretty good chance this is it. My degreaser melted the plumbers tape I had used for the quick release (whoops!), and while I thought I had scrubbed it all off, some may have gotten inside the valve. I'll give disassembling and cleaning the valve a shot and report back how it goes. Someone can correct me if I'm wrong on this, but I believer the "AK-47" references the ease of use, ease of repair, and reliability. You can still break an AK if you try.  Also, didn't your brush come with a little wrench for removing that chuck? Every airbrush I've bought has one...
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Aug 27, 2016 23:07
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berzerkmonkey posted:Someone can correct me if I'm wrong on this, but I believer the "AK-47" references the ease of use, ease of repair, and reliability. You can still break an AK if you try. Nope, mine did not come with a wrench. I used a pair of pliers from the shop, and even with my lightest touch it still deformed the metal ring juuuust enough that the next piece won't screw on right. And you're wrong about AK-47s, those things are indestructible. You can pour sand down the barrel, shake it up, pour it out and it will still function. Citation: my uncle at Thanksgiving
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Aug 27, 2016 23:15
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berzerkmonkey posted:Someone can correct me if I'm wrong on this, but I believer the "AK-47" references the ease of use, ease of repair, and reliability. You can still break an AK if you try. Exactly. The needle is still a .5 needle. I disassembled my Patriot for the first time last week, to clean the trigger area through my own stupidity. It's easier than I expected. But as others have said, 99% of the time not necessary.
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Aug 27, 2016 23:17
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Vlaada Chvatil posted:Nope, mine did not come with a wrench. I used a pair of pliers from the shop, and even with my lightest touch it still deformed the metal ring juuuust enough that the next piece won't screw on right. It's weird about the wrench. I don't have a 105 though, so I can't say whether or not you should.
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Aug 28, 2016 00:09
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Did you lube it up after cleaning? I had the same problem a few weeks ago and lube fixed it right up.
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Aug 28, 2016 01:17
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Finished 12th legion Sicaran:     I'll spare this thread the lore. Feedback appreciated.
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Aug 28, 2016 03:57
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Finished up Yarrick over the weekend. Feel the colours offset each other pretty well. The official scheme is a little too dark for my liking, so I went half way.   
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Aug 28, 2016 07:29
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Bassoon yarrick rules mate, good job
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Aug 28, 2016 07:33
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Yeast posted:Finished up Yarrick over the weekend. I LOVE the use of yellow on him, and the stubble was a great touch too. The weathered metal and the glowing gradient power sword are good details too; he's got a lot going on but it all looks great.
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Aug 28, 2016 07:39
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Finished some Striders for my Legion of Everblight Army. Sorry for the wonky format. I like the paint scheme I came up with for this army.
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Aug 28, 2016 09:34
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GreenMarine posted:Finished 12th legion Sicaran:
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Aug 28, 2016 16:04
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Yeast posted:Finished up Yarrick over the weekend. I just started working on my Yarrick, too. Mine will not look as cool as yours. Your Steel Legion are better than mine and I hate you for that. Anyways, here's a Baneblade:     
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Aug 28, 2016 16:15
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Finished Fallen Frontiers, Riff Hero, Fink Dradd Riff Assault Troopers 
dr_ether fucked around with this message at 18:37 on Aug 28, 2016 |
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Aug 28, 2016 18:30
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