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my friends at GST winning time attack last weekend: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y5Mb8DGvKAU this is the car:  they even put on my stickers: 
jamal fucked around with this message at 03:15 on Sep 24, 2011 |
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Sep 24, 2011 02:51
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Wore flannel while driving my Subaru today. Feels good man.
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Sep 24, 2011 03:17
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The whole oil anaylis thing is a load of ridiculous anal retentive crap that is exactly like camber curves CITATION NEEDED. Mobil 1 isn't going to eat your loving engine. It's not a oil for racing either so if you are going to cane the crap out of it on a track go better. PaladinXT posted:Good point on the immoblizer. Was the stock turbo just that crappy? I put only Mobil-1 full synth 5W-30 in it. I am exceptionally hard on cars. I broke the crank on a 92 Saturn SL2, last fun car was an 02 Z06 which I drove like I stole it every day, so breaking a turbo wasn't an unexpected surprise. If you saw what I was doing today, believe me what you do on your fun road aint nothing compared to the hammering my car copped and all I did was simply did a cool off and idle down. I didn't even lift the bonnet. Just do a cool off run and idle down, it'll be fine. Beat my best time around Eastern Creek by 12 seconds today, first time there with the WRX, first time there in 16 years in the dry. What a very nice car to drift at some godawful speed.
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Sep 24, 2011 11:56
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PaladinXT posted:How hard is a turbo timer to install? The end of my drive home is up a fun and winding 1000 foot elevation gain... Time to host your own Goodwood festival
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Sep 24, 2011 18:44
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bring a tire probe to your next track day gains 1/2 degree with 2" of travel. From stock- if you lower the car it's less. So think about what part of the tire you're on with 5-6 degrees of roll. jamal fucked around with this message at 20:31 on Sep 24, 2011 |
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Sep 24, 2011 19:43
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What does a tire probe do?
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Sep 24, 2011 21:24
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http://www.longacreracing.com/catalog/item.asp?id=193&catid=7 you measure the tire temperature on the ouside, middle, and inside of all four tires. Depending on how things are, you'll want to change the alignment, spring rates, and/or swaybars to balance things out. Generally after a session you want temps to be even across the tire to a little hot on the inside. If you were to take a stock subaru out on track and measure the tires, you would find that the outsides of the front tires were much much hotter than everything else, indicating that they are doing most of the cornering work. Using all of the tread of all of the tires evenly is obviously going to result in much more overall grip. On the time attack car using r888s (a dot treaded r-compound), we ended up with 750lb-in f/800r springs, 27/29mm swaybars (yeah, heavier springs and swaybars in the rear), and -3.5f/-2.5r camber to keep the tire temps even. With a sticky street tire you don't need to be quite that extreme, but you still need a good amount of camber and a good amount of roll stiffness to get the most out of the tires. jamal fucked around with this message at 00:23 on Sep 25, 2011 |
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Sep 24, 2011 21:42
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Getting USDM STi springs from Jamal. The dirty impreza guys love STi springs with tokico D-specs. I'm looking at them, but drat the price jumped on them from the last time I checked. Jamal, Cat Terrorist? D-Specs the way to go with STi springs? I do autox/rallycross/logging road bombing runs. My stock springs are shot.
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Sep 24, 2011 21:55
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D Specs are discontinued which might explain the jump. When you could still buy them new they were half the price of Koni refits so you might want to look at the Yellows again (I'm happy with mine but need better setup advice for a wagon).
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Sep 24, 2011 22:29
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for on-road use only I'd say the konis. They don't hold up so well to offroading. I didn't know the d-specs were discontinued, only that they went up in price. They were $600 (same as konis), now $850. But check the classifieds in nasioc I saw a set of new d-specs for $600 recently. It's too bad these aren't a little cheaper: http://odib.web.officelive.com/Feal.aspx And there's always the KYB AGX jamal fucked around with this message at 00:21 on Sep 25, 2011 |
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Sep 25, 2011 00:18
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Looks like I'm ordering D-specs once my next paycheck hits. Stupid cars stealing all my money.
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Sep 25, 2011 00:34
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I'm actually not 100% sure the D-Specs are discontinued but they suddenly disappeared from a lot of the places that I would normally buy such things around the same time people were saying they were discontinued. The Tokico website says they still make them, and I know a few people who have bought new sets recently, but it seems like it's hard to find them and/or the supply is limited. AGXs seem like a good alternative but I don't know anyone with them.
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Sep 25, 2011 01:28
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http://turninconcepts.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_9_7_479_43_134_1063&products_id=544 and write something in the comments box like "jamal says you'll put toys and candy in with my order and you owe him a referral fee. and also he says your car is slow." jamal fucked around with this message at 01:38 on Sep 25, 2011 |
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Sep 25, 2011 01:32
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Wrar posted:What does a tire probe do? Nothing that a good set of eyes wont achieve - the grains on my tyres told a very good story. I was running initially far too high tyre pressures, dropped 8 psi and then another 1 on the next run. The fourth run simply showed exactly what I know already, the stock car needs castor / camber on the front desperately - which is next after I re-learn the track because frankly I have 2-3 seconds in it by just taking better lines. Which the small sway bar runners seem to have been doing, the gentleman pulling 1:44 with a stock engine did exactly what I want to do. Funny how the small sway bar folks are getting the fast times, but I guess they understand that you don't use sway bars to fix alignment issues, you use them to tune the car's final balance - which is why a car running a full 120Kw less than the "quick" cars could be 5 seconds quicker. Then after that is the whole get the best bushes for the suspension possible so the step after that works as well as possible. Interesting to note the DS5000's survived but I seem to be using the brakes an awful lot less than anyone.
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Sep 25, 2011 01:49
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jamal posted:http://turninconcepts.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_9_7_479_43_134_1063&products_id=544 If I'm trying to get a good deal wouldn't ball busting TIC be a bad idea... Just sayin...
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Sep 25, 2011 01:57
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I guess you could leave out the part about the referral fee.
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Sep 25, 2011 07:54
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More advise I'm soliciting, you people have been awesome. (I hope I can solve one of your problems one day!) I'm finished with Stage 2. My local subie tuner told me it's time to get into suspension before we go further on hp. What do I need to do to a '10 STI Hatchback to make her handle a little better? There's a definite understeer when I hit a corner at higher speeds. Definitely going adjustable shocks so I can drive on the street and the track. (Can I adjust my own shocks without a lift, or do I need to take it to the shop do get it done?) Speed shop wants to do sway bars and adjustable shocks. Other friends have recommended anti-lift kit, and some kind of arm? (I have no idea what I'm talking apart, I just know how to drive the thing) Anyone got a good suspension FAQ for STI's somewhere? Would love to know its weaknesses before I proceed. Advice welcome!
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Sep 25, 2011 19:54
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So, got a new one, none of my local friends (who aren't really "car guys" to be honest) have been any help. 2008 2.5i, with the headlights on, left blinker acts like a bulb is out (fast blink). With the headlights off it acts fine about 90% of the time, sometimes if I turn on the signal when braking it does the fast blink, but not always. I've checked and all the bulbs appear to be in working order, someone has said maybe it's a ground problem, someone else has said maybe a relay. I'm stumped and hoping for some guidance. :-\
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Sep 25, 2011 20:31
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Flu Roo posted:Anyone got a good suspension FAQ for STI's somewhere? Would love to know its weaknesses before I proceed. Advice welcome! Lot's of info on NASIOC http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=171928
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Sep 25, 2011 20:43
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Flu Roo posted:More advise I'm soliciting, you people have been awesome. (I hope I can solve one of your problems one day!) do you have a budget? how often are you going to be tracking the car? what kind of shocks is the shop recommending? what do you expect to be adjusting between the street and track? Krobar posted:So, got a new one, none of my local friends (who aren't really "car guys" to be honest) have been any help. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2174949
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Sep 25, 2011 22:41
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jamal posted:do you have a budget? Budget, yes. I drop $2000 at a time, maybe once a month till this thing is truly nasty. Tuning shop recommended: (Quoting his email) quote:"A set of street coilovers like the Apex'i NB1 EXVs or the BC Racing BRs are a grand or less and are not so stiff that they can't be run comfortably on the street. Both will offer height adjustment so you can set any ride height you'd like to get you through the daily grind, higher spring rates to take the body roll out of the car and to keep it from squatting too much on launches, and adjustability with the damping to tailor the ride quality to what you like. All for no more than a grand. It is a steal. Tracking- Not much to start, but starting to get involved with motorcross (Cones on tarmac, not circuits vs other drivers, at least till I'm better) Adjustments- I'm hoping to change ride height. Low center of gravity for the track, higher for the roads which are pretty flawed in this area. Don't want to rip up exhaust/body.
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Sep 26, 2011 01:20
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I assume you've already addressed tires and brake pads?
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Sep 26, 2011 01:32
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Neither. So far it's just been stage 2- Intake, Catted d/p, cat-back exhaust, Cobb tune specific to my hardware. Are brake pads an issue? Tires are being addressed once I burn through these half-spent pirelli's.
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Sep 26, 2011 01:38
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Flu Roo posted:Adjustments- I'm hoping to change ride height. Low center of gravity for the track, higher for the roads which are pretty flawed in this area. Don't want to rip up exhaust/body.
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Sep 26, 2011 01:39
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jamal posted:
Thanks, following up with those. 
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Sep 26, 2011 01:42
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nm posted:You understand that when your raise and lower a car, you need to do a new alignment? Looks like I need to pick a happy medium then... definitely not equipped to do that myself.
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Sep 26, 2011 01:42
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I'd get a competent custom performance alignment done first before you put any new parts on it. It made an enormous difference with my car. It won't eliminate understeer, but it will reduce it. After that you can start making more expensive decisions about exactly what you want to build.
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Sep 26, 2011 03:02
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All things equal lowering a car will actually make it handle worse, and an acceptable ride height for track and auto-x use is going to work just fine on the street. Plus changing the ride height will change all the rest of the alignment settings, so once it's set it's really not something you'll be doing all the time. Most of the super low hellaflush cars you see on the forums flat out wouldn't work for track use without big changes to the suspension. Same thing goes for damper settings. A lot of coilover marketing touts the ability to adjust the suspension to be soft on the street and stiff on the track. Suspension doesn't actually work that way- there's only a small range of settings that will actually work for that specific car and spring rate. So, that said, the suspension they've recommended doesn't have good shocks. it's really just cheap, stiff set of suspension more suited toward looking cool with silly wheels. Spending the extra on either of these is going to be well worth it in the long term: http://racecompengineering.com/osc/product_info.php?cPath=21_25_37_53&products_id=94 http://turninconcepts.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_9_11_1057_1076_1530&products_id=1088 and they're both made by good companies that can back up their products. Alright, so, on to what you should do. the understeer is there because there's a lack of front end grip. More negative camber in the front will put more of the tread on the road in a corner and help that. I would say start with the ALK, a 22mm adjustable rear bar, and an alignment with more front camber. It's simple, inexpensive, and will make a big difference. jamal fucked around with this message at 07:16 on Sep 26, 2011 |
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Sep 26, 2011 03:10
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Ugh. FML. I'm most of the way through the engine rebuild for my '02 WRX. Ran into an issue which I now really regret: I reused the washers that go on the six bolts that hold the block together and sit in the cooling passageways. I know you were supposed to replace those, but I was trying to get things done and said 'gently caress it' and just now realized that they're included in my bottom end rebuild gasket set. Stupid stupid stupid. The engine is mostly complete now... is it worth tearing the heads off (and putting new headgaskets on I assume) to replace the washers? loving loving gently caress. Also, whoever invented this stupid shim/bucket system for valves is retarded. All of my valves are out of spec (120k) and it's like $15/shim.... for 16 valves... That's loving expensive. 
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Sep 26, 2011 04:01
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jamal posted:All things equal lowering a car will actually make it handle worse, and an acceptable ride height for track and auto-x use is going to work just fine on the street. Plus changing the ride height will change all the rest of the alignment settings, so once it's set it's really not something you'll be doing all the time.
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Sep 26, 2011 05:44
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Flu Roo posted:What do I need to do to a '10 STI Hatchback to make her handle a little better? There's a definite understeer when I hit a corner at higher speeds. Definitely going adjustable shocks so I can drive on the street and the track. Since Cat Terrist hasn't come around yet, I'll go for him -- get a performance alignment and go to a track day or autocross or something. Get a feel for the car in a more open environment before you start modding the suspension. Sure the stock suspension might be soft, but you won't know just how soft until you threshold brake and turn into a corner. Of course, if your goal is not to drive fast but simply to have the car feel better for the way you already drive it, then mod away.
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Sep 26, 2011 07:02
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Flu Roo posted:Anyone got a good suspension FAQ for STI's somewhere? Would love to know its weaknesses before I proceed. Advice welcome! Not STI specific, but GRM did a nice set of tests for different suspension modifications - some of the most drastic ones are the cheapest. http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/articles/dialed/
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Sep 26, 2011 20:17
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Based on all your (awesome) input, I think I'm going to just get an alignment and see how she rides. The understeer could have been the driver more than the gear, but I'll be sure of that once I get a lil more skill under my belt. Really appreciate all your input.
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Sep 27, 2011 03:20
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Those little access panels break off really easily and never quite fit properly again after one good winter. Pull it off, get a decent skid plate and then get used to bolting/unbolting it to do the change. I played rally driver on some abandoned logging roads in northern wisconsin a few months ago, and while it was some of the most fun driving I've ever done, I was a bit worried about hitting anything that might crack my oil pan. Anybody have recommendations, or is this just something you have to get fabbed locally?
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Sep 27, 2011 05:48
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I have the Primitive Fabrications skid plate on my WRX and a locally fabricated one on my OBS. They were about the same price; shipping was the primary incentive behind going local for the second one.
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Sep 27, 2011 06:16
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Primitive definitely makes some good stuff.
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Sep 27, 2011 06:21
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Hey Subaru goons, I may have the chance soon to test out/possibly buy a used Subie from a friend of mine who's moving out of the country and basically I wanted to see if this vehicle is worth my trouble. Now here's what I had in mind for it to do, to start off: be a second car and a basic vehicle for light 4x4ing on the most easy flat desert type trails or easy forest ones (I live in Southern California), NOT rock climbing and etc since I don't know how to do that yet anyway. I wanted some old SUV as a beginner's camping/offroading rig to sort of initiate myself into the whole thing and my thoughts with this car are: at least I can maybe try before I buy, and at least I know what issues it has going in. Here's details of the car itself: it's a 2001 Legacy Outback with about 165,000 on the clock. Not sure of the trim level but it seems a middle of the road type model with no leather, power driver's seat/locks/windows, no moonroof, a CD changer and mid-range looking rims. Its issues: the A/C is flaky (works randomly), the back suspension is creaky over bumps, the front axle is slowly wearing out and needs replacing at some point, and the brakes may need doing soon. Supposedly the engine and trans have been checked by a mechanic and are reasonably solid. All in all, the car's in decent shape despite being passed around between multiple owners. So, is this car worth checking out, perhaps at least just driving around and checking out? What's a reasonable price to ask my friend for something like this? Thanks.
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Sep 27, 2011 07:18
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I've got a primative skid. Paul is great to deal with. Mine needed some massaging to fit, but I've got an oddball car, 2002 RS. Who puts a skid plate on one of those....
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Sep 27, 2011 11:30
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Flu Roo posted:More advise I'm soliciting, you people have been awesome. (I hope I can solve one of your problems one day!) Firstly, do not go to NASIOC. The advice is likely to be godawful and I'm glad no one has said swaybars - SWAYBARS BALANCE CARS THEY DONT FIX ALIGNEMTS and this truly pisses me off about the Subaru community, this crap about camber curves and blah blah needs to loving stop. Second, the obvious "alignment, learn" has been said. Your car is much quicker than you are and you will be highly surprised how drat good it really is. Third - the '10 suspension does need a bit of a touch up. It is too soft and a good place would be to start is to look at the '11 for a starting setting, there is a noticeable (altho possibly only local) difference in suspension tune. From my gut feeling, you are looking at a car that can do quite greatly with approx a loss of 2cm in ride height, a 20% stiffening in the front springs with matching shocks and a larger percentage change in the rear (30% is a good start I think). Realign, retest, change as required. There is no denying all Subarus need more castor - I believe on the '10, an offset bush on the front control arms will be the go. That may or may not be the full extent of a Whiteline ALK, but if it isnt then I would be leery, my experience of the ALK has not been positive. On the 06, I'm going to utilise shimming of the control arms, which is what is called the "free castor mod", something not doable on the '10 BUT the same principle applies with the offset bush. The real problem on the GF shell is that loving rear setup, it's nice and compfy but it has some real issues that the eariler Macpherson strut cars dont have - lack of real travel is one of them. One of the biggest issues is a narrower working range which in reality isnt such a huge problem for tarmac. I would hate to dial in a rear end on dirt tho.... Your brakes are okay, better pads and fluid will help. After your suspension and good bushes - (sit down here's a shocker) yes get some uprated sway bars, I really dont think the standard ones are crash hot. Okay, now go back to your car and look at the centre diff controller. Actually you should do this first. Try out the setting - your centre diff is 41:59 (I think, earlier STI's down to 06 are), it is a fixed ratio and all(*) the centre diff does is in a very clever electronic limited slip differential that has clever electronics and hydro pumps that set the amount of allowed front / rear difference in speed ratios (preload) and the manner of how the diff locks and unlocks. (*) Not all in all honestly, while what the DCCD does is easy to explain once you get all it is is a really trick LSD it's one godawfully complex bit of hardware combined with software that works out what to do based on a bunch of parameters like steering angle, yaw, power applied, brakes, speed and a few other inputs to decide how much to lock the diff and how much preload to apply. Primer - the two modes easiest to understand is Auto and LOCK, more than likely the only two modes most people will use. Auto allows the computer to decide everything and isn't bad. LOCK is the other extreme where the computer is told to set high preload and the car becomes quite unpleasant to drive around in cruise mode. Give the car lots of stick esp on dirt and int he wet, the car is still nasty in less than experienced hand BUT it becomes a drift machine and hugely effective under lots of power if you know what you are doing. The other settings basically are presets that change the base preload and lock/unlock characteristics. I've never used anything other than Auto or Lock. Also the other definate improvement is to (If you can, there seems to be a real difference between USA and Aust delivered cars on this) turn the traction control / skid control to off all the time. I have seen how this quite predictably threw STI's into spins when earlier STI's have no issue at the same speed on the same corner. On the MY11 I hooted around in, I found a real improvement in turning the TC off. Actually it was quite an alarming difference and pretty much changed the car from turd to "Hmmm yeah okay, that's plenty not bad"
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Sep 27, 2011 13:01
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Cat Terrist posted:Firstly, do not go to NASIOC. The advice is likely to be godawful and I'm glad no one has said swaybars - SWAYBARS BALANCE CARS THEY DONT FIX ALIGNEMTS and this truly pisses me off about the Subaru community, this crap about camber curves and blah blah needs to loving stop.
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Sep 27, 2011 16:24
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