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Martytoof posted:There are/were two camera shops in my town that sold chemicals, and the big chain store (Henry's) doesn't stock any chemicals anymore (at least mine doesn't), but can order just about anything I want. Most of the stores I know are chain. I'm not hardcore into it like a lot of people so I'd just rather order online. Any suggestions where?
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Jul 10, 2012 06:17
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Freestyle or B&H if you're in the USA. If you're outside of the USA then I'm not really sure. I know there are some chemicals I can't find in Canada to save my life, so I guess I'd have to order those from Freestyle myself.
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Jul 10, 2012 06:26
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QPZIL posted:Any opinions on Fuji Reala? It's the cheapest decent 100 ISO film on Adorama, and I'm about to take a vacation where I need to stay on a budget I get my B&W chemicals from my local small-chain store (Don's Photo, I'm in Canada). I don't develop film nearly as often as I shoot it ('fridge is slowly filling with exposed rolls...) but so far I've been using Ilfosol, and I'm pretty happy with it.
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Jul 10, 2012 06:31
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I started off with Ilfosol when I first ventured into development (because that's what Henry's stocked), and I can't say I was ever disappointed. I slowly migrated to HC-110 because of its legendary syrup longevity, as I didn't want to just up and find my Ilfosol was bad. That's actually the only reason, though I ended up staying with HC-110 because I never found any reason to try anything else. Of course we'll put that to the test since my HC-110 is now like 2 1/2 years old and has been sitting in a room temperature laundry space 
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Jul 10, 2012 06:50
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Martytoof posted:I started off with Ilfosol when I first ventured into development (because that's what Henry's stocked), and I can't say I was ever disappointed. I slowly migrated to HC-110 because of its legendary syrup longevity, as I didn't want to just up and find my Ilfosol was bad. That's actually the only reason, though I ended up staying with HC-110 because I never found any reason to try anything else. Rodinal is magic and i'll probably not use anything else unless i've got a specific reason to like pushing/pulling more than 2 or 3 stops or other weird poo poo
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Jul 10, 2012 06:51
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Yeah I don't think I was ever able to find that here, so it would have to have been shipped either way. I'd love to try it some day, though.
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Jul 10, 2012 07:04
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Martytoof posted:I slowly migrated to HC-110 because of its legendary syrup longevity, as I didn't want to just up and find my Ilfosol was bad. That's actually the only reason, though I ended up staying with HC-110 because I never found any reason to try anything else. You might want to be careful of that. My 2-1/2-3 year-old-ish HC-110 syrup bottle just split all over my tub of developing stuff. It's got longevity but it's NOT immortal.
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Jul 10, 2012 07:15
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I have a roll of Fuji Pro 400H that I bought a while back. Am I correct in my understanding of it as a slightly less flexible Portra?
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Jul 10, 2012 07:18
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Paul MaudDib posted:You might want to be careful of that. My 2-1/2-3 year-old-ish HC-110 syrup bottle just split all over my tub of developing stuff. It's got longevity but it's NOT immortal. You mean the actual bottle itself? Yeah, I've got it in its own little tub for the time being. I'll check out whether I need to transfer it to a new container or not. One of the perks of working in a university lab is all the free chemical equipment you can imagine, so I'll have no problem relocating it if the bottle is a liability.
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Jul 10, 2012 07:26
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aliencowboy posted:I have a roll of Fuji Pro 400H that I bought a while back. Am I correct in my understanding of it as a slightly less flexible Portra? I shot a couple 120 rolls of Fuji Pro 400H recently. I shot it on an overcast and rainy day, so the slightly cooler palette suited the matter at hand well. That said, it seems to be quite a fair bit grainier than Portra and the colors and contrast aren't as neutral either. Compared to Kodak's Portra the colors are usually a bit more saturated and it seems to have a slightly steeper contrast curve. I do like the reds, oranges and the skin color it produces, I am less sure about the neutral colors though. Tl;dr - I like to diversify away from exclusively using Portra and so far Pro 400H is one of the more compelling C41 alternatives to me. Just don't expect resolution miracles. Still, I liked it.
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Jul 10, 2012 07:28
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Just got 10 rolls of Kodak Ektachrome Panther 100, should I be storing it in a fridge? It says 13 degrees on the box but I live in Ireland and it's not exactly hot over here...
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Jul 10, 2012 11:55
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aliencowboy posted:I have a roll of Fuji Pro 400H that I bought a while back. Am I correct in my understanding of it as a slightly less flexible Portra? Lots of grain, magenta tinge on overcast days. I bought a box as a Portra replacement and I was seriously disappointed.
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Jul 10, 2012 16:17
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Martytoof posted:One of the perks of working in a university lab is all the free chemical equipment you can imagine, so I'll have no problem relocating it if the bottle is a liability. Quantum of Phallus posted:Just got 10 rolls of Kodak Ektachrome Panther 100, should I be storing it in a fridge? It says 13 degrees on the box but I live in Ireland and it's not exactly hot over here...
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Jul 11, 2012 03:22
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ExecuDork posted:Not to mention constant-temperature water baths, highly accurate thermometers, pH meters, magnetic stirrers... Very true. I just learned that there's a whole darkroom in the next lab over that's been unused for years now that is only good for light storage (no pun intended) because of the darkroom door. The catch? It's in an X-ray lab so I can't get access to it. I guess it used to be used to develop film when they used it to capture … images? .. of some kind instead of digital detectors. I almost wanted to cry  I mean they say it's just a big closet but still. Set up for water, light tight, vented with a proper fume hood. So sad
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Jul 11, 2012 06:10
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ExecuDork posted:Film goes in the 'fridge. Or freezer, if you're not going to shoot it for a while (or it's infrared). Great, thanks. If I'm sticking it in the freezer, should it be in some sort of box so it doesn't destroy the film? \/\/\/Thanks! Quantum of Phallus fucked around with this message at 13:48 on Jul 11, 2012 |
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Jul 11, 2012 10:35
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Quantum of Phallus posted:Great, thanks. If I'm sticking it in the freezer, should it be in some sort of box so it doesn't destroy the film? Just put it in a Ziploc freezer bag.
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Jul 11, 2012 13:23
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This might seem like a stupid question but is there a stills equivalent to the Fujifilm ETERNA Vivid stock? I've seen some stuff shot on it and it looks incredible in low light, was wondering what 35mm still stock would be the most similar?
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Jul 11, 2012 20:48
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Martytoof posted:Very true. I just learned that there's a whole darkroom in the next lab over that's been unused for years now that is only good for light storage (no pun intended) because of the darkroom door. Advice: get radioactive safety training, then get access to that darkroom. Tell your employer you want to expand your skillset, or you don't feel comfortable working around radioactives without the proper training, or something. The training should cost you nothing, and probably your boss only a token fee. Convince him / her that having more highly trained (in safety, no less!) technicians around is in his / her best interests. Good luck.
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Jul 12, 2012 03:19
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Shot my first roll of Portra 400, fumbled with scanning and processing it tonight.  img011.jpg by MrDespair, on Flickr  img004.jpg by MrDespair, on Flickr  img001.jpg by MrDespair, on Flickr  img005.jpg by MrDespair, on Flickr  img009.jpg by MrDespair, on Flickr
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Jul 12, 2012 05:54
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Paul MaudDib posted:You might want to be careful of that. My 2-1/2-3 year-old-ish HC-110 syrup bottle just split all over my tub of developing stuff. It's got longevity but it's NOT immortal. You need to decant the syrup into smaller bottles as soon as you open it. Personally i keep it in in wine bottles stopped with a cork. Coloured glass (like beer or port bottles) are the best.
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Jul 13, 2012 08:14
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Mr. Despair posted:Shot my first roll of Portra 400, fumbled with scanning and processing it tonight. bring those whites up
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Jul 13, 2012 10:38
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Zorki 6 should be here today or Monday (hopefully, it was shipped from NY to Toronto on Monday). Just pulled the trigger on a $17 FED-2 off eBay as well. Wanted something with a near-silent film drive because I'm kind of sick of the Zzzzzzzip-click film advance lever on most cameras. I'd like to think my camera buying is done with now. Z6 shipped with an Industar-50 so I might try to find a collapsible I-50 to replace it, or get something like a Jupiter-8 or whatever. I'm pretty happy with the 50mm range, not really looking for anything wider or narrower. Mostly because I don't want to use an accessory viewfinder My biggest fear now is that the eBay seller somehow managed to gently caress up the camera by testing the film speed dial without cocking the shutter first and absolutely destroyed the shutter mechanism. I've heard that the whole "change speed without shutter cocking will blow up your camera" is slightly alarmist and there's a *chance* that it *might* break your camera, but I'm worried regardless. I kind of want to start a thread about Soviet cameras and poo poo just to keep this stuff out of the general film thread. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 16:06 on Jul 13, 2012 |
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Jul 13, 2012 16:03
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atomicthumbs posted:bring those whites up What makes you say that? Just curious (for the record I tried bringing the whites up some more and just didn't get anything that I liked, everything gets blown out if I boost it much more). e. Tweaking the white balance now though, and upped the exposure a bit. Dr. Despair fucked around with this message at 16:26 on Jul 13, 2012 |
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Jul 13, 2012 16:12
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Mr. Despair posted:What makes you say that? Just curious (for the record I tried bringing the whites up some more and just didn't get anything that I liked, everything gets blown out if I boost it much more). I think he's referring to the fact that there's no true white in either of the pictures he quoted. Using the first one as an example, a quick look at the histogram backs that up:  Plenty going on in the midtones and shadows, but it's missing out on highlights. I had a quick go at boosting the highlights and fixing the white balance. I'm not trying to step on your toes creatively, just showing you what he's getting at (and I do agree with him).   I like the shots though, what were you shooting with?
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Jul 13, 2012 16:31
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There's probably some detail left in the highlights but they're just too hard to see with the whites boosted that much. I like the original better.
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Jul 13, 2012 16:34
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QPZIL posted:I think he's referring to the fact that there's no true white in either of the pictures he quoted. Using the first one as an example, a quick look at the histogram backs that up: These were the adjustments I made (forgot that the flickr links would break instead of updating gracefully).  img004.jpg by MrDespair, on Flickr  img005.jpg by MrDespair, on Flickr Pentax ME Super with a 50/1.4, and Portra 400.
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Jul 13, 2012 16:43
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Shaocaholica posted:There's probably some detail left in the highlights but they're just too hard to see with the whites boosted that much. I like the original better. That's fair. Like I said, I'm not trying to tell him what to do or process his picture for him, I'm just trying to show the contrast that the other poster was referring to 
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Jul 13, 2012 16:43
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Martytoof posted:Just pulled the trigger on a $17 FED-2 off eBay as well. Wanted something with a near-silent film drive because I'm kind of sick of the Zzzzzzzip-click film advance lever on most cameras. Looks like someone's never heard of the grind-wind  quote:[quote]I'm pretty happy with the 50mm range, not really looking for anything wider or narrower. Mostly because I don't want to use an accessory viewfinder You don't really need an accessory VF for 35mm on most cameras. Just imagine a bit beyond the edges of your viewfinder. And the Jupiter-12 is pretty nice if you get a decent copy.
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Jul 14, 2012 00:57
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I inherited my grandfather's Canon FD system, including a Canon 35-105/3.5, a Canon 200/2.8 and an off-brand 24/2.8. After running the first roll through it and developing it I noticed something that worries me a bit: There's hard vignetting on some of the pictures taken with the 35-105. Did Canon really design lenses for a 35mm-only system that would vignette on 35mm frames?
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Jul 14, 2012 01:29
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Did you shoot it wide open? A lot of old lenses have some vignetting wide open.
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Jul 14, 2012 12:22
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The amazing technology of Canon T70 does not have an aperture priority mode, and the controls in full manual mode, along with the light meter indication, makes it extremely painful to use that way. So I actually have very little control of what aperture I use. (I can use one of three program modes, and then Tv mode.) Anyway on a bit further examination, one of the cases seems to be when using the macro mode of the 35-105, which is perhaps somewhat understandable.
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Jul 14, 2012 15:00
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I just ran a pack of color and b&w fuji packfilm through a modified polaroid land camera. The lens is a LF 127/4.5 which is very similar to the 180. On the color prints, I got a soft edged blue hot spot dead center (not sure if its flare) on most of the shots. On the b&w I got a harder edged hot spot. I am using a CPL to reduce light and I tested with it on and off to no affect. I also tested different apertures and some middle values seemed to be OK but it came back with smaller f-numbers (f/16+). Since I didn't have much film to test with I don't really know for sure. I also loaded up a fresh pack of color and can't seem to repro either. The only thing I can think of is that the affected film was in my car all day where it was unbearably hot. Shaocaholica fucked around with this message at 01:14 on Jul 15, 2012 |
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Jul 15, 2012 01:12
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Through an amazing coincidence, I got the following for free:  new gear by renburress, on Flickr I can't wait to see the results.
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Jul 15, 2012 13:45
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I thoroughly dislike you. Go shoot a ton of film through it now!
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Jul 15, 2012 14:09
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I have been trying to unload a lung to finance that loving Contax. Argg!  (Seriously though, enjoy the gently caress out of it!)
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Jul 15, 2012 18:47
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 Midnight, Open Space Preserve by atomicthumbs, on Flickr Acros owns. This was twelve minutes at f/8 one night after the full moon.
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Jul 16, 2012 08:57
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atomicthumbs posted:
I really like this shot, I really like the texture on this hills on the left.. I've heard nothing but good things about Acros's reciprocity characteristics and I have an idea for a project that is going to involve long exposures so I may give it a try for that. Anyway, I did some portraits this weekend. Some with Pan F and some with FP4+. I really like the results I got with FP4. After some reading it appears that FP4 is a little more sensitive to red and thus gives bright smooth skin tones. I could probably get the same effect with a red filter with Pan F, but the Pan F was super contrasty (I need a second light or a reflector to balance it out some if I want to try it again). 
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Jul 16, 2012 20:42
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Can I do any better than $15 + shipping a pop for the reels with the nice big film guides on them? I wrestled with my non-guide one for the last time yesterday 
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Jul 17, 2012 06:35
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Pompous Rhombus posted:Can I do any better than $15 + shipping a pop for the reels with the nice big film guides on them? I wrestled with my non-guide one for the last time yesterday http://freestylephoto.biz/55043-Arista-Premium-Plastic-Developing-Reel?cat_id=1603 9 bucks each + shipping.
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Jul 17, 2012 07:22
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Pompous Rhombus posted:Can I do any better than $15 + shipping a pop for the reels with the nice big film guides on them? I wrestled with my non-guide one for the last time yesterday Ebay? I got two of those reels plus a tank plus some expired film for $10.
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Jul 17, 2012 07:23
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