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LODGE NORTH posted:Hey quick audio question mega thread, I have a quick and easy question. This is specially for desktop speakers. I currently have the Kanto YU6s but they're fairly large. They take up their space sitting vertically, but I was wondering: is there any harm in laying them horizontally? For anyone curious, it's solely because I'm moving to a dual monitor setup and would wanna make sure everything fits nicely. Speakers are designed to spit out sound more in a horizontal pattern than vertical so if you lay them sideways they'll reflect off the desk and they'll be more sensitive to positioning due to the fact the vertical is now horizontal. They might not image properly either but you're not going to damage anything trying to see if you notice anything odd in terms of sound.
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# ? Jan 16, 2021 02:01 |
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# ? Jun 8, 2024 14:40 |
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qirex posted:Sonos works locally, at least it did the last time I had an outage. The "bricking" was to encourage people to upgrade and was unrelated to mandatory logging in. I don't own one, I'm just going off what I heard. Just because you can still stream locally doesn't mean internet services will still work if their servers are down or they decide to stop supporting you. Also, holy poo poo, they serve you ads on a $600 loving speaker? That alone would keep me far away from them.
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# ? Jan 16, 2021 02:15 |
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I just redid a bunch of cabling with my desktop computer and my audio is acting strange. My audio is handled by a pair of powered JBL LSR305 speakers, connected via XLR cables to a JBL Nanopatch volume controller. The Nanopatch has a 3.5 cable to the green line-out audio jack from my desktop computer. I am getting sound through the speakers, but if I turn the volume on the Nanopatch down all the way, I can still hear audio coming from the speakers, albeit at low volume . If I mute the Nanopatch, the volume cuts off. I have the volume slider on Spotify is about 1/3 full and if I slide it up, the volume is very loud. My computer volume slider is at 80/100. It wasn't like this before, and I have no idea what has changed. Any ideas? me your dad fucked around with this message at 17:48 on Jan 17, 2021 |
# ? Jan 17, 2021 17:46 |
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Any chance you've accidentally flipped the sensitivity switch on the back of the speakers? +4 on the input is basically telling the speaker to expect a hotter input so the gain is going to be lower overall. -10 the gain is going to be higher as it's waiting for a lower level input.
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# ? Jan 18, 2021 18:53 |
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I got a Sonos Play5 back when they came out with the gen2s or whatever, because it created more than enough sound for my teeny apt in the city, it was great for casual music stuff, controlled from phone, etc. I moved to a house and have now inherited a second Play5 gen2. I feel like I should put the two of them to use. anyone know whether I can use a stereo pair of play5s + soundbar to make for a budget "surround" system for my TV? I almost certainly do not need a subwoofer given the size of my TV/living room, provided how much earth shaking the Play5s themselves produce, but I can foresee problems with channel mixing when there's like, three speakers and no sub.] i guess the other option is just to use them two as a stereo pair for just music
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# ? Jan 18, 2021 21:12 |
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Gunshow Poophole posted:I feel like I should put the two of them to use. anyone know whether I can use a stereo pair of play5s + soundbar to make for a budget "surround" system for my TV? I almost certainly do not need a subwoofer given the size of my TV/living room, provided how much earth shaking the Play5s themselves produce, but I can foresee problems with channel mixing when there's like, three speakers and no sub.] You could use them as rear surrounds with a Sonos soundbar but that's kind of a waste. You can make a stereo pair with them but only really for music, I believe the line-in to stereo has too much latency to use with a TV but you could give it a try.
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# ? Jan 18, 2021 21:18 |
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Olympic Mathlete posted:Any chance you've accidentally flipped the sensitivity switch on the back of the speakers? I checked. It's a tiny recessed switch so I would have had to purposefully changed it. They are both set to -10. I can't figure out what the hell changed when I was moving stuff around. The system has two XLR cables, and one 3.5 cable. It's not exactly a complicated thing.
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# ? Jan 18, 2021 23:48 |
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Amps are meant to be turned on after the receiver, and turned off before the receiver, right? Well the 12v DC trigger out (from AVR) can be used to turn the amps on, but I don't see how you could use it to turn the amps off before the AVR is turned off?
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# ? Jan 19, 2021 17:56 |
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It’s not a big deal, you might get a bit of a thump when you turn it off but I don’t think there’s much if any actual risk, I’d guess most systems with outboard amps use 12V.
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# ? Jan 19, 2021 18:33 |
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Any suggestions on an inexpensive mp3 player. Old ipods out the door and phones don't cut it. Expandable storage would be a plus. Bluetooth isn't vital. Thank you!!
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# ? Jan 22, 2021 02:44 |
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SylvainMustach posted:Any suggestions on an inexpensive mp3 player. Old ipods out the door and phones don't cut it. Expandable storage would be a plus. Bluetooth isn't vital. Thank you!! My roommate has a SanDisk 16GB Clip Sport Plus MP3 Player and has had it for a couple years. She adores it and it sounds really, really good to my admittedly not-great ears. There's other models with 32GB and more, but this one's under 50 bucks. I hope that works out for you! Onto my own question! Hi, IYG, I usually only lurk but I gotta know: What's the make/model of the headphones Fiona Apple wears in the music video for "Across the Universe?" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XW8LKvrCxBY Are they a prop or are they a real make/model I could actually buy someday (if I had a lot of money, I'm sure)? Sorry if this is the wrong thread, I just can't imagine this is worth space in another thread.
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# ? Jan 22, 2021 05:10 |
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What about a phone doesn’t cut it? I can’t imagine an inexpensive MP3 player would offer any more features or quality.
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# ? Jan 22, 2021 05:11 |
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Treguna Mekoides posted:My roommate has a SanDisk 16GB Clip Sport Plus MP3 Player and has had it for a couple years. She adores it and it sounds really, really good to my admittedly not-great ears. There's other models with 32GB and more, but this one's under 50 bucks. I hope that works out for you! These maybe? https://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-BLACK-WHITE-COLORED-MAGNAVOX-1A9280-STEREO-HEADPHONES-/284090826719?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292
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# ? Jan 22, 2021 05:57 |
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powderific posted:These maybe? Yeah! Those are exactly them or a super similar model! I love 'em! Got 'em! Thanks, knew y'all wouldn't let me down.
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# ? Jan 22, 2021 07:28 |
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SylvainMustach posted:Any suggestions on an inexpensive mp3 player. Old ipods out the door and phones don't cut it. Expandable storage would be a plus. Bluetooth isn't vital. Thank you!! Fiio makes a few small and cheap ones, check out the M5 and M6. I think they all come with bluetooth now.
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# ? Jan 22, 2021 09:36 |
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qirex posted:Fiio makes a few small and cheap ones, check out the M5 and M6. I think they all come with bluetooth now. I will do that! Thank you~
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# ? Jan 22, 2021 19:49 |
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Got a HEOS Amp HS2 off eBay to check it out... solid "meh" so far, I think. App is pretty meh, and I guess the individual components can't do AirPlay 2, just some of their AVRs and the soundbar. It can do Spotify at least via the devices API, but amazingly enough, I think this unit showed up, even after re-setting it up, with the previous owner's Spotify still auth'd somehow, which is all kinds of . Not sure I need all the zones I thought I did anymore, which lessens the need for the Drive. I guess I can do the math of 4x Port + multi-channel amp, or 4x Amp -- basically $200/unit savings there to put to a multi-zone amp. I'll grab an Amp to play with it and see if it's less painful to use / does what I need -- Sonos SW suite has treated me decently in the past.
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# ? Jan 24, 2021 09:58 |
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Yeah Sonos software being pretty bulletproof is what’s kept me in the system. The time I spent using bluesound I wasn’t impressed. If I want an “upgrade” I might spring for Roon.
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# ? Jan 24, 2021 21:55 |
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~~Chroooommeeeccaaaassssttt oooooohhhhhh~~ come to the dark side and ditch Apple.
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# ? Jan 24, 2021 22:09 |
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Chromecast is just a dumb endpoint, not the same at all. What makes the integrated systems good is the management of both your music sources and multiple zones. Plus some of us still have locally stored music. Also telling people to buy a random widget that got cancelled 3 years ago off of eBay makes you sound like a crazy person to normies.
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# ? Jan 25, 2021 01:05 |
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It can handle synchronized multi zone, can play without any other devices running and is compatible with a giant list of video and audio devices. It's really good and also costs literally 1/10th of the competition. Just because they discontinued the hardware doesn't mean it's not the best price/feature ratio out there.
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# ? Jan 25, 2021 01:23 |
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I'm not an expert but I think I've got an electrical problem and I don't know how to fix it. Recently I started using a headset that has a microphone, and connects using a 4-contact 3.5mm cable, which has an inline microphone mute and volume control. Since my usb headphone amp doesn't have a mic jack, my setup looks like this: pre:headset -> its own cable -> mic/headphone splitter |-> headphone amp |-> usb cable -> back of computer |-> computer's front panel microphone jack So how the heck do I fix it?
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# ? Jan 27, 2021 12:36 |
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A ground loop isolator could be the solution, but the even simpler explanation is that front-panel audio ports (provided by the case manufacturer instead of your mobo's) tend to suck like crazy. Any audio I hook up to it is completely distorted, even though it's a premium case. Hook it up to the rear microphone port.
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# ? Jan 27, 2021 14:18 |
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ufarn posted:A ground loop isolator could be the solution, but the even simpler explanation is that front-panel audio ports (provided by the case manufacturer instead of your mobo's) tend to suck like crazy. Any audio I hook up to it is completely distorted, even though it's a premium case. Wow, that worked. The front panel jack must be complete poo poo. Thanks!
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# ? Jan 28, 2021 00:52 |
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VostokProgram posted:Wow, that worked. The front panel jack must be complete poo poo. Thanks! They’re all trash. Often the USB ports are as well.
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# ? Jan 28, 2021 02:23 |
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The bizarre thing is it's the exact opposite on my Dell at work. The motherboard ports sound truly awful like there's some weird filter and overdrive on them but the fronts are perfect. Makes zero sense.
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# ? Jan 28, 2021 09:51 |
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Piggybacking on some of the subwoofer talk. I am looking to spend around 500$ and there are some space and WAF issues. The problem I am having is it will be in the living room, and the entire first flow is open, with a few walls. We are not really wanting earth shaking base and we have neighbors, so having multiple subs or some 15" behemoth is not what we want. Would something like the SVS PB-1000 work? From what I see it is small for the space. Does that impact audio quality? This would be for home theater. The other issues is speedwoofers may be delayed until March, Rythmik and HSU systems until sometime in February, so that SVS is pretty much the only option if I want something soon.
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# ? Jan 28, 2021 20:23 |
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A thing I'd like to point out is that bigger subs aren't just about playing louder, you could play them at the same volume but deeper. ie I'd rather have 80 dB @ 20hz than 90 dB @ 80hz. Also check out the Monoprice Monolith 10.
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# ? Jan 28, 2021 21:01 |
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And multiple subs aren't about louder, either. They're about a more even response across the entire space. That's even more important in a large area. Ultimately, everything is a compromise though.
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# ? Jan 28, 2021 21:07 |
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I've got two 12" subs in a 17m² living room, and most of the time you sort of forget they're even there, they just give the illusion that the bookshelf speakers have a bunch more low-frequency extension than they actually do. Then you get to a point in a movie where someone got a little too eager with the LFE and "oh right, subwoofers".
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# ? Jan 28, 2021 21:15 |
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On the other hand those 12”, glossy SVS subs are probably the most aesthetically “pleasing” ones you’re gonna find and they get deeper than most. If you can do basic woodworking you could also build your own box/get an unassembled kit off of, say, Parts Express and finish it however your wife likes. I’ve seen some really nice veneered/laminated/painted/solid oak, etc. subs assembled for not much money.
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# ? Jan 28, 2021 21:21 |
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I'm aware of the benefit of dual sub's ability to deal with nulls and peaks but is there any truth to dual subs not increasing depth vs a single larger one. Such as, if a single 10 inch rolls off at 30hz, 2 of them, while louder in the frequency they're designed for will still roll off at 30hz? I can't decide between dual 12's or a single 15 inch. I know the answer is "dual will sound better throughout the frequency range and in multiple listening positions" and my response is "but fifteeeeenth..." Ak Gara fucked around with this message at 21:58 on Jan 28, 2021 |
# ? Jan 28, 2021 21:48 |
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Having multiple subs would be a no go due to price unless I went down in quality. Additionally it would be hard to find a place for a second one, and connect a wire to it. Hardwood floors with not a lot of furniture against the walls. Maybe I am missing something here. Do I go from the size of the living room, or the size of the unrestricted airflow from the sub? The living room would be about 12x15, but the space is living room, dining, kitchen in a line for around 12x30, and then there are several other hallway connected spaces. The first floor of the house, minus the rooms with doors, is about 600 square feet. The living room does sit in its own 3 sided rectangle. I guess I am trying to figure out if spending the 500$ would be wasted and I need to save up and get 2 to see any improvement. Basically do I get Disney + now and watch the Mandalorian with one sub, or wait 6 months? And the Monoprice Monolith 10 is out of stock.
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# ? Jan 28, 2021 22:15 |
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Ak Gara posted:I'm aware of the benefit of dual sub's ability to deal with nulls and peaks but is there any truth to dual subs not increasing depth vs a single larger one. Such as, if a single 10 inch rolls off at 30hz, 2 of them, while louder in the frequency they're designed for will still roll off at 30hz? Yeah, they’re not gonna go any deeper. You could always do twin 15”
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# ? Jan 28, 2021 22:15 |
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SubjectVerbObject posted:Having multiple subs would be a no go due to price unless I went down in quality. Additionally it would be hard to find a place for a second one, and connect a wire to it. Hardwood floors with not a lot of furniture against the walls. Just get one good sub now and then decide in a year or whatever if you want a second. Like, having one sub beats having zero subs, regardless of what you end up adding later. You don’t need to have some weird ritual of only watching the Mandalorian with the optimal amount of subbage. That’s what Fury Road is for.
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# ? Jan 28, 2021 22:18 |
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Ok Comboomer posted:Just get one good sub now and then decide in a year or whatever if you want a second. Like, having one sub beats having zero subs, regardless of what you end up adding later. I just heard that Disney has upped their sound game for their streaming services and figured it would be a good way to break in a new sub. And Netflix is getting boring. We are probably taking a break as soon as my wife is done with all the British nobility shows.
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# ? Jan 28, 2021 22:24 |
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My living room is similar/slightly larger with the open side thing going on and a PB2000 (the older version they don't make anymore) rattles the windows and is amazing for movies. It feels like more than I really need outside a few LFE effects and very specific songs. I do wish we could do a dual sub setup to even things out, but well worth it anyway.
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# ? Jan 28, 2021 22:38 |
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Ak Gara posted:I'm aware of the benefit of dual sub's ability to deal with nulls and peaks but is there any truth to dual subs not increasing depth vs a single larger one. Such as, if a single 10 inch rolls off at 30hz, 2 of them, while louder in the frequency they're designed for will still roll off at 30hz? X sub is designed for a certain frequency range. Adding another smooths the response because hey, each one is doing half the work to get the same output as a single one. Two of them are still limited by the design of the sub though, they're not going to go very much lower at all together, probably a few hz, not noticeable outside of an RTA but for as low as they'll go, two will obviously be louder than one in their designed frequency range should you wish.
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# ? Jan 29, 2021 00:29 |
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I’ve noticed that a lot of (most?) AV and stereo receivers with two sub outs either have them summed (mono) or unspecified. Can you set them to stereo in a receiver’s settings? I listen to a lot of music with heavy panning and R/L bass and my ideal setup is twin subs set up front to extend the bass of the front speakers. I know, I know “but sub bass is so big it’s nondirectional”- you can absolutely perceive directional bass if it’s aggressively panning from side to side, etc. You feel the air move, these trigger directional sensory cues despite not going straight for the ears. I suppose you could use pre outs/amp 2 outs, if available, with a low pass filter (like the one built into the sub), right? Say your sub has speaker pass through (you have like an old stereo amp with no sub outs). Could you run one speaker line through each sub and leave the other disconnected? Could you run the sub from Speaker B terminals?
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# ? Jan 29, 2021 00:44 |
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# ? Jun 8, 2024 14:40 |
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Hey I forgot to come back the other day to say thanks for the dual sub advice / chat. Sounds like mismatched is just asking for headaches so I'm not going to try that and probably will look in to building a couple bass traps first for the room to see how that improves things before spending lots of money on a pair of new subwoofers (and drilling a bunch of holes to fish wires...ugh). Also on stereo subs I don't see why you couldn't split the L/R channels to the speaker passthroughs, all the subs I've seen with those specify one of the channels if you only have a mono signal to send to it so I'd imagine it'd work so long as you use that channel on both subs. I don't think I've ever seen an A/V receiver with subwoofer outs that has explicit L/R channels for them, but that doesn't mean they don't exist. Probably only the expensive end of the market though.
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# ? Jan 29, 2021 02:09 |