|
slidebite posted:I think I know the answer to this, but thought I'd ask just to be 100% sure. Yes you need a switch. Consumer grade switches are pretty much all the same. Although the ones with metal cases are more resistant to damage from being knocked around.
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2016 15:18
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 7, 2024 11:42 |
|
|
Thanks for confirming so fast 
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2016 15:21
|
|
|
slidebite posted:I think I know the answer to this, but thought I'd ask just to be 100% sure. I would be careful here, I don't have a good understanding of how everything is wired in your relatives house, but many cheap switches have issues with IPTV traffic. I'm most familiar with AT&T's U-Verse service, but any similar service is the same. (For sure anything that runs on Microsoft MediaRoom's platform, not sure about FIOS or how it works). I've seen a lot of issues before where you try to share 1 connection off a Ethernet run with a IPTV set top box, and a normal internet device like the PS3. The multicast traffic can overload the the PS3 and result in lovely connectivity. Best solution is to have any IPTV Set Top Boxes connected to the gateway device the ISP provides, and then have 1 of the Ethernet connections from that device go to a normal switch for regular internet data stuff. If that's not an option, you should spend a little extra money and get a high quality desktop switch that can handle IGMPv3 snooping properly. A cheap switch without that will just blast the multicast traffic out of all the ports, a good switch with IGMP snooping handling IPTV traffic should only direct the traffic to clients and ports that ask for it. Hopefully that makes sense. AT&T uses the Netgear GS108T switches when they need to install one, I know those work well in an IPTV environment.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2016 16:07
|
|
|
Antillie posted:According to this unboxing it comes with a wall plug adapter. So you can power it from a wall plug and then power the AC-AP-Lite with the PoE injector that comes with the AP. Or you could get another 24v PoE injector and skip the wall plug all together. Considering I've only been able to pry my budget open enough from the wife to have a 25mbps connection from Comcast with a MAYBE allowance of pushing it to 75, I think 500mbps will hold me for the next few years. I'm assuming the PPTP controls built into the firmware will probably be enough security for me to log in remotely from hotspots for more secure internet browsing? Since the above stated budget is tight, would I be able to use my current wireless router as a simple AP for a month or two before grabbing the AC-AP? I think I would just need to disable all the DHCP stuff, but again I've been a Luddite for the last 6 years.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2016 19:03
|
|
|
skipdogg posted:I would be careful here, I don't have a good understanding of how everything is wired in your relatives house, but many cheap switches have issues with IPTV traffic. I'm most familiar with AT&T's U-Verse service, but any similar service is the same. (For sure anything that runs on Microsoft MediaRoom's platform, not sure about FIOS or how it works). That does sort of make sense with my limited networking experience, BUT, they would never be used at the same time. The PS3 will be off if they are using the telco PVR and vice versa. I assume that should make it simpler to do with a basic switch?
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2016 21:21
|
|
|
Someone recommend me a small rack I could store a router, switch, and maybe a Raspberry Pi or some other server-on-a-stick flavor. I don't want something huge: it's going in a home office.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2016 23:00
|
|
|
It took me 6 hours to do a basic Edgerouter Lite setup because I have no idea. Bought also all new CAT6 cables while at it. Next step is to get rid of these lovely Zyxel WiFi boxes... Edgerouter seems to be pretty cool so far. Hopefully I didn't mess up with any of the settings, esp. firewall and assignging it to correct interfaces. Maybe I need to look at a way to test my firewall next  At least  move at lightnging speed. Before a my Zyxel router would max out it's cpu and die, with ERL cpu usage is around 10% and data moves at 10,2MiB/s. Can't wait for my gigabit connection to open next week!
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2016 23:24
|
|
|
Ynglaur posted:Someone recommend me a small rack I could store a router, switch, and maybe a Raspberry Pi or some other server-on-a-stick flavor. I don't want something huge: it's going in a home office. Wall mount, floor mount, or wheely?
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2016 23:53
|
|
|
Ihmemies posted:It took me 6 hours to do a basic Edgerouter Lite setup because I have no idea. I'd recommend anyone getting an Edgerouter to upgrade the firmware first thing before setting anything up. If you're a total networking noob it won't make it that much easier, but the web interface is much better in the latest release, particularly with regard to port forwarding.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2016 00:54
|
|
|
Ynglaur posted:Someone recommend me a small rack I could store a router, switch, and maybe a Raspberry Pi or some other server-on-a-stick flavor. I don't want something huge: it's going in a home office. For that amount of stuff you could use one of these in-wall boxes and take up literally no space at all. In mine I crammed a fiber bridge, edgerouter lite, POE switch, 650va UPS, and a raspberry pi. I got the vented door, it's pretty much flush with the wall with the door closed. They also make patch panels that snap in but I opted not to use them.   e: this is assuming you own your home and have a non-insulated wall in your closet to work with. CheddarGoblin fucked around with this message at 01:26 on Jan 23, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2016 01:09
|
|
|
smax posted:Wall mount, floor mount, or wheely? A wheels is probably a good idea. Are there any that would just look like a small desk if placed next to a wall? Basically, I'd like the benefits of a rack without bad aesthetics for a home office.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2016 04:17
|
|
|
Ynglaur posted:A wheels is probably a good idea. Are there any that would just look like a small desk if placed next to a wall? Basically, I'd like the benefits of a rack without bad aesthetics for a home office. https://wiki.eth0.nl/index.php/LackRack It does require some modification: http://www.enjoythemusic.com/diy/0213/ikea_lack_diy_audio_rack.htm
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2016 05:51
|
|
|
n.. posted:I'd recommend anyone getting an Edgerouter to upgrade the firmware first thing before setting anything up. If you're a total networking noob it won't make it that much easier, but the web interface is much better in the latest release, particularly with regard to port forwarding. I'm a total noob. But I finally managed to setup DHCP server to give out ip's, NAT so that my lan machines could get to Internet, and a basic firewall so that bad guys can't just walk in. A usb console cable would have been handy, I managed to lock myself out of the box twice before I realized what I'm doing. My config looks like this now: http://hakkarainen.kuvat.fi/conf/erl_config.txt
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2016 13:05
|
|
|
SpaceCadetBob posted:Considering I've only been able to pry my budget open enough from the wife to have a 25mbps connection from Comcast with a MAYBE allowance of pushing it to 75, I think 500mbps will hold me for the next few years. I'm assuming the PPTP controls built into the firmware will probably be enough security for me to log in remotely from hotspots for more secure internet browsing? Yes, any consumer wifi router can be used as a cheap AP. Just put it on the same subnet as your router, disable its DHCP server, and ignore its WAN port. So router at 192.168.10.1 and AP at 192.168.10.2 for example. PPTP isn't really secure but most bad guys probably aren't going to bother attacking it to get some random guy at a coffee shop simply because there will probably be easier targets within 30 feet of you. Just don't use it for anything serious.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2016 15:10
|
|
|
I finally got around to putting the router for my POS ISP in bridge mode in the hope of resolving the on-going connection problems on it. I use an Archer C7 v2 router instead, but I'm getting this weirdness: This happens across all domains I can think of, and the weird regular pattern is not one I recognize from the ISP router. I've updated the firmware and made sure all the cables are tightened properly (the relevant cable have hinges on as well). The redacted part of the screenshot is the address of my ISP; no idea what's with the blank line with 100% packet loss, which is where things seem to fall apart. This is on wireless and happens on both the 2.4 and 5GHz connections. Any idea what the hell is going on? EDIT: No problems on the 2.4 for a while, but Hop 2 is still at 100% PL, so maybe it only goes down whenever it passes through that? ufarn fucked around with this message at 18:59 on Jan 23, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2016 18:39
|
|
|
My first thought is that the router at the second hop just isn't responding to ICMP echo requests and/or isn't issuing ICMP Time to Live Exceeded messages. Its not uncommon for some hops on trace routes to timeout but the overall trace to keep going. Its also common for things to drop ping packets. Is a wired connection any better than a wireless one?
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2016 20:01
|
|
|
Moving to a new apartment in NYC shortly. Just me and one dude, TV + consoles in the living room and PCs in our rooms. We have no choice but TWC in our building so we'll be buying a modem (maybe this one unless the $100 model is markedly better - I think it has more channels). Will powerline be faster than Wifi? I'm thinking of keeping the modem and router in the living room, then having powerline to the bedrooms (we play games there) and a less good Wifi network because our laptops are generally just for surfing. The signal interference and building walls being thick as gently caress made WiFi a nightmare in my last apartment. E: Seems that the modem I linked is a bit older. I guess a better question would be what modem are any of you that are stick with TWC using? Good Will Hrunting fucked around with this message at 21:18 on Jan 23, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2016 21:01
|
|
|
Antillie posted:My first thought is that the router at the second hop just isn't responding to ICMP echo requests and/or isn't issuing ICMP Time to Live Exceeded messages. Its not uncommon for some hops on trace routes to timeout but the overall trace to keep going. Its also common for things to drop ping packets. Is a wired connection any better than a wireless one? Good Will Hrunting posted:Moving to a new apartment in NYC shortly. Just me and one dude, TV + consoles in the living room and PCs in our rooms. We have no choice but TWC in our building so we'll be buying a modem (maybe this one unless the $100 model is markedly better - I think it has more channels).
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2016 21:59
|
|
|
Good Will Hrunting posted:Moving to a new apartment in NYC shortly. Just me and one dude, TV + consoles in the living room and PCs in our rooms. We have no choice but TWC in our building so we'll be buying a modem (maybe this one unless the $100 model is markedly better - I think it has more channels). I use the SB6141 myself with TWC and its fine. However I am in a suburb in Texas. In a more crowded area like NYC more channels is a major plus. If I was moving to NYC or any other very crowded place I would get an SB6183.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2016 23:18
|
|
|
Thanks for the advice from everyone so far. I have a question about the Ubiquiti ACs lots of Goons recommend. They use PoE, which is great, but every switch I see with PoE, including Ubiquiti's, is several hundred dollars. The EdgeRouter Lite and the ACs are priced very reasonably. Are my expectations for switch pricing just off?
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2016 23:44
|
|
|
Antillie posted:I use the SB6141 myself with TWC and its fine. However I am in a suburb in Texas. In a more crowded area like NYC more channels is a major plus. If I was moving to NYC or any other very crowded place I would get an SB6183. That's a valid argument. I'm leaning towards that and am thinking I'll pair it with the TP-Link C5. What type of things should I be looking for in a USB adapter for my desktop?
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2016 23:44
|
|
|
Lovable Luciferian posted:I'm having trouble with my cable connection. My download is usually okay, but it will tank if my upload gets below 1/mbs. Cox is coming out to look at it but in the past they only temporarily fixed this problem. I'm hoping it's something I can fix on my end by using an amplifier with active return, but I hear they very seldom help. Cox techs came out and put an attenuator on my modem and left. The techs were in a super bad mood for some reason. That's Cox for you I guess. Either way all it did was make my upstream power go up a tad and now my upload and download are slow as hell.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2016 23:48
|
|
|
Ynglaur posted:Thanks for the advice from everyone so far. I have a question about the Ubiquiti ACs lots of Goons recommend. They use PoE, which is great, but every switch I see with PoE, including Ubiquiti's, is several hundred dollars. The EdgeRouter Lite and the ACs are priced very reasonably. Are my expectations for switch pricing just off? You can get garbage switches like this Netgear for $100: http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-ProSA...60_SR160%2C160_ Also the AP's come with PoE adapter. One cable to power box, one ethernet to switch and one to the AP. It's messier than PoE but not a big deal if you have room and a power outlet.
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2016 00:30
|
|
|
Ok total noob stupid question. Is Cat 5e different then cat 5? I am trying to crimp some rj45 ends on some cable to plug into open ports on a router and they are showing as totally dead. I have tried 4 times and no matter what I try I can't get it to work. Are the ends not compatible or something? I can crimp well enough that I have made several patch cables so I can't imagine I am doing it wrong every time. Could the jackets on the twisted pairs be heavier so when I crimp its not making contact in the rj45? On my cell but I might try taking a photo of the cable. This is really annoying me.
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2016 00:41
|
|
|
Ynglaur posted:Thanks for the advice from everyone so far. I have a question about the Ubiquiti ACs lots of Goons recommend. They use PoE, which is great, but every switch I see with PoE, including Ubiquiti's, is several hundred dollars. The EdgeRouter Lite and the ACs are priced very reasonably. Are my expectations for switch pricing just off? Ihmemies posted:Also the AP's come with PoE adapter. UAP-AC-Lite and UAP-AC-Pro 5-packs do not include PoE adapters, BTW. So if you need the adapters, buy the APs individually. Also the AC-Lite devices are 24v passive PoE so you can't use the $100 netgear PoE switches that supply standard 802.3af 48v PoE. HOWEVER, the 5-port 24v PoE Ubiquiti Toughswitch is only $90: http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-TS-5-POE-TOUGHSwitch-Advanced-Controllers/dp/B00CSRK6DE And the 8-port that does both 24/48v PoE selectable per-port is $180: http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-TS-8-PRO-ToughSwitch-Advanced-Controllers/dp/B00CXU1NHY slidebite posted:Is Cat 5e different then cat 5? Are you crimping both ends, and are you matching the pinouts on both sides? Are you crimping the wire order as TIA-568B (or 568A if you choose) correctly? Do the cables you're crimping have a broken conductor or short-circuit somewhere? Really when you run cable you should be using punchdown jacks. Crimping RJ45 plugs is for chumps.
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2016 02:43
|
|
|
So we're going to go with the SB6183, which I'll keep in my room. We're thinking of pairing it with the TP-Link Archer C7, but were wondering if we could get away with the C5 instead? It's only $25 cheaper, so it's not really a big deal, just figured I'd ask.
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2016 02:53
|
|
|
Ynglaur posted:Thanks for the advice from everyone so far. I have a question about the Ubiquiti ACs lots of Goons recommend. They use PoE, which is great, but every switch I see with PoE, including Ubiquiti's, is several hundred dollars. The EdgeRouter Lite and the ACs are priced very reasonably. Are my expectations for switch pricing just off? If you haven't bought a router yet the EdgerouterX has a 24v POE port that pairs perfectly with the UAP-AC-Lite.
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2016 02:59
|
|
|
Looking for a router to replace my lovely Belkin one, which after multiple factory resets and making sure its updated to the latest firmware, crashes multiple times a day and requires a power cycle to fix itself. My connected devices are a macbook, my phone, a chromecast, and now an ipad on wifi and a ps3 on the ethernet i live in a pretty small apartment so wireless range shouldn't be a huge concern budget is ~$100 with some flexibility
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2016 09:25
|
|
|
Ihmemies posted:You can get garbage switches like this Netgear for $100: http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-ProSA...60_SR160%2C160_ Just curious, why are NETGEAR switches garbage? Is there a better alternative for consumer/prosumer grade hardware? I was thinking spending a 10Ge netgear switch down the line
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2016 10:13
|
|
|
Good Will Hrunting posted:So we're going to go with the SB6183, which I'll keep in my room. We're thinking of pairing it with the TP-Link Archer C7, but were wondering if we could get away with the C5 instead? It's only $25 cheaper, so it's not really a big deal, just figured I'd ask. The C5 is fine too. In the end it comes down to how much speed you want and how much you want to pay for a wifi router. Antillie fucked around with this message at 16:15 on Jan 24, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2016 15:55
|
|
|
slidebite posted:Is Cat 5e different then cat 5? Yes. Cat5 will only really do 100mbps reliably most of the time. The link may show 1000mbps but your actual speed will be lower with Cat5. Cat5e will do gigabit speeds. Its due to how the wires are twisted in the cable and how much cross talk the cable is rated for. Cross talk hurts speed and Cat5e has less of it. If you are crimping the ends yourself then the quality of your crimping job will affect your network speeds if you are using gigabit. The Cat5e spec only allows for a certain amount of untwisting before the RJ45 head so making a truly cat5e spec compliant cable manually is actually kinda hard. Personally I just buy my cables. They are pretty cheap anyway and it saves me the work of messing around with a crimper.
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2016 16:04
|
|
|
RME posted:Looking for a router to replace my lovely Belkin one, which after multiple factory resets and making sure its updated to the latest firmware, crashes multiple times a day and requires a power cycle to fix itself. Have a look at the Archer C5 and C7. They are great bang for your buck if you want your router and wifi AP to be in the same box.
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2016 16:07
|
|
|
Even in China no one sells Cat 5 cable any more, its all 5e. However you can get Cat 3 cable as it is half the connections and thus cheaper and for some reason 100mb Fast Ethernet switches are still sold.
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2016 16:11
|
|
|
100mbps ethernet only uses four of the wires in the cable. So leaving out the other 4 wires doesn't have any effect on a 100mbps connection and saves on manufacturing costs. Gigabit uses all of the wires in a cat5e cable though. Cat3 is actually phone cabling. I have never tried to use it for 100mbps ethernet. But if you had 4 pins I guess it could work if the things you plugged it into properly detected it as a crossover cable. Antillie fucked around with this message at 16:41 on Jan 24, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2016 16:17
|
|
|
Antillie posted:Yes. Cat5 will only really do 100mbps reliably most of the time. The link may show 1000mbps but your actual speed will be lower with Cat5. Cat5e will do gigabit speeds. Its due to how the wires are twisted in the cable and how much cross talk the cable is rated for. Cross talk hurts speed and Cat5e has less of it. If you are crimping the ends yourself then the quality of your crimping job will affect your network speeds if you are using gigabit. The Cat5e spec only allows for a certain amount of untwisting before the RJ45 head so making a truly cat5e spec compliant cable manually is actually kinda hard. CrazyLittle posted:UAP-AC-Lite and UAP-AC-Pro 5-packs do not include PoE adapters, BTW. So if you need the adapters, buy the APs individually. Also the AC-Lite devices are 24v passive PoE so you can't use the $100 netgear PoE switches that supply standard 802.3af 48v PoE.
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2016 17:22
|
|
|
slidebite posted:Yeah, I just ordered a Monoprice patch panel and punchdown tool from Amazon and will try it again. Kinda depends on how many runs you have and how much equipment you have ... AND how much you want to be able to change stuff later. Also, CAT 6 makes this entire thing more difficult. Mikrotik stuff is cheaper, POE included, WinBOX beats the living gently caress out of the Ubiquity managment java stuff. Enjoy I guess.
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2016 18:48
|
|
|
Antillie posted:Have a look at the Archer C5 and C7. They are great bang for your buck if you want your router and wifi AP to be in the same box.
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2016 18:58
|
|
|
caberham posted:Just curious, why are NETGEAR switches garbage? Is there a better alternative for consumer/prosumer grade hardware? I was thinking spending a 10Ge netgear switch down the line Naw, they make decent products as far as unmanaged switches (no console/VLAN/etc) are concerned. Even their "smart" and managed switches are decent enough if you need a few VLANs and PoE. 10GbE gear is going to be much more affordable in the next few years due to 802.11AC breaking the 1Gbps barrier. Keep an eye out on what Ubiquiti will be sure to cook up (Edgeswitch with 10GbE and PoE would be nice.)
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2016 20:16
|
|
|
Antillie posted:Have a look at the Archer C5 and C7. They are great bang for your buck if you want your router and wifi AP to be in the same box. Yeah one of these is pretty much exactly what I'm looking for
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2016 20:32
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 7, 2024 11:42 |
|
|
Rukus posted:10GbE gear is going to be much more affordable in the next few years due to 802.11AC breaking the 1Gbps barrier. Keep an eye out on what Ubiquiti will be sure to cook up (Edgeswitch with 10GbE and PoE would be nice.) Unless you have really expensive unions the cost benefit of 10GbE over 2x 1GbE is only going to occur with a few more reductions in fabrication node size.
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2016 20:36
|
|