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Yeast posted:For undercoat chat, both of these are great, Airbrush required. You can brush them both on without a problem. An airbrush just makes it easier and quicker.
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Oct 10, 2016 23:07
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Slimnoid posted:You can brush them both on without a problem. An airbrush just makes it easier and quicker. I guess so! I just wouldn't wish that on someone.
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Oct 10, 2016 23:11
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Yeast posted:If you're transitioning between say the base and a highlight layer, grab both paints, get two tiny dots of both, 50-50, add medium to make the glaze, and gently go over. Mix of vallejo and citadel, lahmian was just the closest medium I had at hand.  I've got three highlights and two shades, I'll try the 50/50 approach and see how it looks. Thanks for the heads up on the WD tutorial, I've got it just not had a chance to look through it. e: That turned out pretty good! Can't say I'm disappointed with the result as it's the first time I've ever tried painting flesh. Might have to redo the lightest highlights as they get kind of lost at arms length. ijyt fucked around with this message at 23:46 on Oct 10, 2016 |
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Oct 10, 2016 23:15
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Wanted to get some color scheme advice from you guys. I've been working on some Aberrants from the Deathwatch : Overkill boxed set and having trouble coming up with a color scheme for them (and by extension my GSC army). Pictures below for reference   My gut says a cool purple for the tabards/cloth , black for any leather bits and maybe yellow or bright blue for squad markings. I was also interested in this color scheme from the GSC book. 
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Oct 11, 2016 05:59
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Uuugh, I like the colors I've been using oh the Tau I'm painting but they're all suuuuper dark which makes them look kinda like boring unicolor duders without closer scrutiny. 
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Oct 11, 2016 07:29
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The Sisko posted:Wanted to get some color scheme advice from you guys. I've been working on some Aberrants from the Deathwatch : Overkill boxed set and having trouble coming up with a color scheme for them (and by extension my GSC army). Pictures below for reference With the orangey red arm you've got going on I'd personally go for a turquoise or sea blue for the tabard, and grey/beige for the suits.
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Oct 11, 2016 08:01
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The Sisko posted:Wanted to get some color scheme advice from you guys. I've been working on some Aberrants from the Deathwatch : Overkill boxed set and having trouble coming up with a color scheme for them (and by extension my GSC army). Pictures below for reference Have a look at hive fleet Behemoth, and if gw still do it the paint deal they have for them. this should give you a ready made palette, just go around those colours. otherwise as Ijyt says, Turquoise would really look fantastic on these guys.
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Oct 11, 2016 11:56
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Almost don't want to risk doing a glaze on the left one. The one on the right was my first attempt from yesterday but now I feel like I should go over it again. Need to shade a the left one a bit in some places.
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Oct 11, 2016 22:56
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Cross posting from the Infinity thread: I painted some dudes! Started the Aswuang a few weeks ago, didn't get very far, and took a trip. Got back on Friday, and I've been on a roll since. Finished the Aswuang in probably eight hours or so, then start-to-finished the Malignos in about ten. It doesn't show up super well in these photos, but the lines on the Malignos' bodysuit have a slight OSL effect on them which I think turned out pretty well. I know these are some of CB's older models, but drat were they fun to paint. Putting together the Noctifer ML right now!     And some closeups of the Malignos, because I am ridiculously happy with how he came out:   I'd love some critiques and suggestions, if anyone has any.
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Oct 11, 2016 23:17
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ijyt posted:Almost don't want to risk doing a glaze on the left one. The one on the right was my first attempt from yesterday but now I feel like I should go over it again. Need to shade a the left one a bit in some places. Nice contrast and tones!
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Oct 11, 2016 23:18
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Will this work? The black one is paint+primer
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Oct 12, 2016 01:40
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Derlix posted:Cross posting from the Infinity thread: They could stand to use a little more blending between highlights and base coats; i'm sure a lot of it is on the part of the old models, but some of the heads are a little incomprehensible on first glance (the Malignos head looks pretty great though). Having said that, I do think they look pretty good overall 
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Oct 12, 2016 02:25
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Derlix posted:I'd love some critiques and suggestions, if anyone has any. Not a huge fan of the Shasvastii models but these look real good!
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Oct 12, 2016 02:30
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I'm starting to think Army Painter makes great sprays and really garbage bottle paints. I'm working on a Knight, and the armor plates are Daemonic Yellow spray. I did that over white and it came out pretty okay. I went back to clean up where I'd spilled over with washes or other colors, and I've done 4 coats over light splatter from a black wash, and it's still barely tinted it. Their Greenskin color was almost as bad, but this is somehow worse. Their Crystal Blue is pretty alright, but every other color of theirs I've used has been absolute dogshit.
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Oct 12, 2016 06:25
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 I painted some tiny tanks! but i feel like i've either gone overboard on the wash, or chosen the wrong shade. i'm thinking, that in an attempt to brighten this up, i'll highlight with castellan green (the basecoat) on the large flat areas and possibly try using a brown shade for the next models, such as agrax earthshade. Airbrush bonus question: My neo for Iwata CN airbrush keeps clogging the gently caress up, even when running quite thin paint through like vallejo black primer. what should be my problem solving steps here? I've already had it fully disassembled and thrown in my ultra sonic cleaner, i've scrubbed every passage i could find, and i've bought a new needle in case that was the problem. my 20$ chinairbrush performs admirably compared to this The main difference between the two, is that i've noticed the Iwata doesn't let very much air through compared to the china model, leading me to suspect there's something else very wrong with it, i just can't figure out what.EDIT: I found an issue with my Neo, in that it doesn't seal properly around the tip. i guess i must've cleaned away the grease seal there. a new spot of lube fixed that up. I also ordered a Badger Patriot 105, in the hopes that it's vastly better than what i have now. it also comes with the upgrade kit to a finer nozzle and needle, bonus! Frobbe fucked around with this message at 14:03 on Oct 12, 2016 |
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Oct 12, 2016 06:50
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SRM posted:I'm starting to think Army Painter makes great sprays and really garbage bottle paints. I'd say their sprays are garbage too. Their white spray did not impress me at all. It was a bit too gritty.
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Oct 12, 2016 07:11
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Avenging Dentist posted:I'd say their sprays are garbage too. Their white spray did not impress me at all. It was a bit too gritty. Their skeleton bone spray ended up fuzzing up more than GW's, which really sucks. Their colour primers seem pretty hit and miss as the brown isn't too bad.
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Oct 12, 2016 07:29
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I've had no problem with their color sprays once I followed the instructions; I haven't had gritty sprays save for the first time I used them and I didn't read the can. My problem's only with their bottled paints. I just wish my GW yellows hadn't poo poo themselves too, now I've gotta go buy more yellow paint.
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Oct 12, 2016 15:54
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ijyt posted:With the orangey red arm you've got going on I'd personally go for a turquoise or sea blue for the tabard, and grey/beige for the suits.  YOU WERE RIGHT!!! In all seriousness I did not expect to like this as much as I do.
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Oct 12, 2016 18:40
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Fuuuuck that looks rad, glad I could help! Those red arms are killer, look really gory and wrong compared to the "human" skin.
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Oct 12, 2016 19:16
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SRM posted:I've had no problem with their color sprays once I followed the instructions; I haven't had gritty sprays save for the first time I used them and I didn't read the can. My problem's only with their bottled paints. I just wish my GW yellows hadn't poo poo themselves too, now I've gotta go buy more yellow paint. I followed the instructions on their white primer exactly and it was still too gritty for me, despite waiting until ideal conditions to prime outside. Maybe other people would be ok with it, but I'm the kind of person who takes steel wool to pewter so the surface is smooth.
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Oct 12, 2016 19:17
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one time I bought a GW can of boltgun spray and the thing broke literally the first time I used it
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Oct 12, 2016 19:25
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Moola posted:one time I bought a GW can of boltgun spray and the thing broke literally the first time I used it I bought a can of Ultramarines Blue and it wasn't even the same color as the bottle version. I was not happy, especially because 14 year-old me sprayed that on a Land Raider without doing color tests first.
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Oct 12, 2016 19:56
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A behemoth genestealer cult buddy!  I did my test model with purple cloth, but that turquoise looks way better. 
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Oct 12, 2016 20:05
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Anyone got any ideas on a highlight for Incubi Darkness? Was basing this scheme on a tutorial video that used Thunderhawk Blue but that's discontinued and I can't find the Reaper analog. More interested in a blue highlight than a green one and don't give a drat which paint line it's from.
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Oct 12, 2016 20:12
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mango sentinel posted:Anyone got any ideas on a highlight for Incubi Darkness? Was basing this scheme on a tutorial video that used Thunderhawk Blue but that's discontinued and I can't find the Reaper analog. More interested in a blue highlight than a green one and don't give a drat which paint line it's from. I want to say Vallejo Light Turquoise from their model color range might work mixed with incubi. e: Also Scale75 Caribbean Blue or Adriatic Blue.
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Oct 12, 2016 21:04
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It took a few months, but I finally found the motivation to go back to my Empire. This time I primed grey, which I should have done to begin with. It made things way easier, and I'm much happier with the results! I'm still going for a "good enough" level of painting, nothing quite like my Ultramarines, but I think they'll look great on the tabletop:     
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Oct 12, 2016 22:58
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Your static grass looks particularly good. Care to share whatever black magic you're using to get it to look that way?
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Oct 12, 2016 23:38
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Ilor posted:Your static grass looks particularly good. Care to share whatever black magic you're using to get it to look that way? I wish I could take credit, but it's just standard Galeforce Nine green grass! It's a mix of green, yellow, and red which makes it a bit more interesting, but it's just straight out of the pot. I bought it at my at the time FLGS like 7 years ago. Just put some PVA glue down, stuck it on, and tapped it off.
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Oct 13, 2016 03:43
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mango sentinel posted:Anyone got any ideas on a highlight for Incubi Darkness? Was basing this scheme on a tutorial video that used Thunderhawk Blue but that's discontinued and I can't find the Reaper analog. More interested in a blue highlight than a green one and don't give a drat which paint line it's from. Giving the usual caveats of "This isn't mine", "found it on a google search", "have no control over the contents", etc., this spreadsheet has been a fraggin' godsend when it comes to comparing colors and looking for replacements. Hope you get as much use out of it as I have.
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Oct 13, 2016 03:53
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Does anyone have the list of stockists for 15mm stuff the one 15mm painter here posted? I want to paint some tiny mans.
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Oct 13, 2016 12:34
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SRM posted:Just put some PVA glue down, stuck it on, and tapped it off. "Tapped it off"? What do you do? I tried using static grass a few times, years and years ago. Always looked like absolute poo poo. All I did was dab a little regular plastic glue on the base, take a clump of the grass and tried to hold it up until the glue dried.
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Oct 13, 2016 13:49
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Sab669 posted:"Tapped it off"? What do you do? I tried using static grass a few times, years and years ago. Always looked like absolute poo poo. All I did was dab a little regular plastic glue on the base, take a clump of the grass and tried to hold it up until the glue dried. Well that right there isn't going to do you any favours. Use PVA glue in a few spots on the base, take a big ol' clump of the grass and whack it on (like way more than you actually need), then just turn the model upside down and tap the bottom of the base to shake off the excess.
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Oct 13, 2016 14:05
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Derp, I read that as taped off  But if you do it that way, doesn't the grass kind of... Fall over? It always winds up flat and poopy looking. Maybe I'm just not using enough grass.
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Oct 13, 2016 14:10
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I just take regular old arts and crafts elmers glue or whatever, put some on the base, throw a bunch of static grass on, turn the model upside down, tap the base till the excess falls off, then I blow on the grass on the base to make sure its standing up. Works pretty well.
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Oct 13, 2016 15:07
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Put dot of undiluted glue on base, put the model Into the bag of static grass, shake it off, remove it, point it away from people you like, blow on it. Grass stands up and excess goes flying off onto your floor/other people's lungs.
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Oct 13, 2016 15:18
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PaintVagrant posted:Put dot of undiluted glue on base, put the model Into the bag of static grass, shake it off, remove it, point it away from people you like, blow on it. Yeah, exactly. That makes it stand up and blows off any extra that missed the glue. Simple stuff.
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Oct 13, 2016 15:28
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Sab669 posted:and tried to hold it up until the glue dried. I am really enjoying imagining you trying to hold up little blades of static grass with a pair of tweezers or something while the glue dries though.
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Oct 13, 2016 15:48
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Elmer's is PVA. Thanks for that chart. I've got one I've been using to buy Reaper stuff but it's less comprehensive.
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Oct 13, 2016 15:58
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GuardianOfAsgaard posted:I am really enjoying imagining you trying to hold up little blades of static grass with a pair of tweezers or something while the glue dries though. Honestly? Pretty much. Except I wasn't using PVA so it dried a lot quicker.... And also I didn't have tweezers I mostly enjoy painting, but not so much when it comes to basing or model prep work and that sort of thing.
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Oct 13, 2016 18:44
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