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Street Soldier posted:Is it necessary to readjust the neck or anything when putting on heavier strings? I'm going from I think 10-48 to 11-52.
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Jan 15, 2014 06:00
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DeathSandwich posted:Out of curiosity more so than actually wanting to buy new kit I probably wouldn't use: What sort of gear would you need to get a sound similar to Freakthickness? Probably looking for a Maestro Fuzz and single coils. Though I think he uses a Muff now.
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Jan 15, 2014 16:04
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This was a few pages back but what's the deal with Tokai and the US? Some lawsuit from Gibson and/or Fender? I picked up a ~300€ Tokai vintage strat when I went out to buy strings half a year ago or so and it's absurdly good for the price. The pickups are kind of meh but otherwise it's a fantastic instrument.
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Jan 15, 2014 17:25
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Neutral Zone Trap posted:This was a few pages back but what's the deal with Tokai and the US? Some lawsuit from Gibson and/or Fender? Yup. Though at one point Tokai had a brand with altered headstocks and Bacchus currently does. No idea why we don't see those in the states, but if I had to guess it would be due to potential lawsuits by Gibson for the body shape or people just don't like Les Pauls without the open book headstock.
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Jan 15, 2014 17:29
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DeathSandwich posted:Out of curiosity more so than actually wanting to buy new kit I probably wouldn't use: What sort of gear would you need to get a sound similar to Freakthickness? http://www.uberproaudio.com/who-plays-what/350-the-black-keys-dan-auerbach-guitar-gear-rig http://proguitarshop.com/andyscorner/the-gear-of-dan-auerbach https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aAt70OcyTN4 Some kind of combination of these devices.
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Jan 15, 2014 23:49
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Got offered to trade my lightly modded Squire VM Tele for a PRS SE Santana. Do I become that PRS guy? I love the one I picked up last night. Couldn't wait to get home and jam on it. Financially, it looks like a much better deal my way.
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Jan 16, 2014 00:59
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Sockington posted:Got offered to trade my lightly modded Squire VM Tele for a PRS SE Santana. Yes. Yes. Join us. Become one of us. (Be prepared to change the pickups, all PRS pickups except 58/08 and 59/09 suck)
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Jan 16, 2014 01:08
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iostream.h posted:Yes. Yes. Join us. Since you're a bit of a PRS guru in my mind, I'm thinking this bridge isn't stock either? GIS doesn't turn up too many single cuts with the intonate-able bridge. I just wondered given the upgraded tuners and SD pickup. The guy I got it from was obviously flipping it as his room was filled with pointy Ed Roman  kind of things. I have to say, it is one of the most comfortable bridges to palm mute with all those nicely rounded edges.  EDIT: I guess I was looking at the newer SE stuff that doesn't have individual saddles. oops. Sockington fucked around with this message at 01:24 on Jan 16, 2014 |
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Jan 16, 2014 01:20
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That's stock for SEs, as far as I know.
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Jan 16, 2014 01:21
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If I start wanting a PRS I'm going to get myself banned from this site. That bridge looks so comfy.
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Jan 16, 2014 01:23
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Sockington posted:Since you're a bit of a PRS guru in my mind, I'm thinking this bridge isn't stock either? GIS doesn't turn up too many single cuts with the intonate-able bridge. I just wondered given the upgraded tuners and SD pickup. The guy I got it from was obviously flipping it as his room was filled with pointy Ed Roman Yup, those are special order/build-to-order option bridges. They're not at all common but a lot of people will upgrade those tailpieces. I've owned several stop tail PRS and I never have, people gripe about the lack of intonation but I've never had a big issue with them. It's funny, people complain about the lack of intonation on the PRS but I've yet to hear anyone complain about the R4 from Gibson. Not a PRS guru, I've just owned and still own several, I dig em and enjoy playing them a lot. They're quite unfairly maligned for a number of reasons but, you dig what you dig for whatever reason. Kilometers Davis posted:If I start wanting a PRS I'm going to get myself banned from this site. That bridge looks so comfy. 
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Jan 16, 2014 01:41
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Pics in the from the trade guy.    
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Jan 16, 2014 01:44
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That's either not legit or a really, really early one?? I could've sworn the SE Santanas had the same body silhouette as the Maryland ones.
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Jan 16, 2014 01:47
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muike posted:That's either not legit or a really, really early one?? I could've sworn the SE Santanas had the same body silhouette as the Maryland ones. Some  gives me this for sale ad.
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Jan 16, 2014 01:57
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Guess it's just old as poo poo, then! Still probably pretty solid.
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Jan 16, 2014 02:01
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Kilometers Davis posted:If I start wanting a PRS I'm going to get myself banned from this site. That bridge looks so comfy.  Now, that's comfy. (Vox SSC33, one piece, cast aluminum.)
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Jan 16, 2014 02:31
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 These are pretty similar to the vox ones, but they're a bit higher mass and a little smoother. Only wish it actually strung through the body and took anything over a .048 more easily.
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Jan 16, 2014 02:41
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Anyone have any tips for widening a neck pocket? I just picked up a new neck for a pawn shop Strat clone I bought a while back, and the new one is about a millimeter wider than the old one. Sandpaper and patience? Belt sander and Bondo? Table router and 12 year old Scotch?
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Jan 16, 2014 03:14
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What's the body made out of? If it's a softer wood I'd just sand but if it's something hard, it might worth setting op a router jig.
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Jan 16, 2014 03:18
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I've used a Dremel tool to reshape a pocket. Not suggesting it on anything you care about.
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Jan 16, 2014 03:20
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It's pretty soft. I really don't think it'd take me that long to sand it out by hand, but I don't care so much about it that I'd be afraid to hit it with the Dremel either. This is just a bunch of cheap parts I'm messing around with and it wouldn't be the end of the world if I screw something up. I guess I'll try it manually for a while, and if progress seems too slow, I'll bust out the power tools.
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Jan 16, 2014 03:30
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A millimeter of soft wood won't take too long, just make sure you stay even on both sides.
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Jan 16, 2014 03:32
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And if you gently caress up shims are cheap/free.
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Jan 16, 2014 03:41
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muike posted:
What's that, muike?
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Jan 16, 2014 03:44
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It is a Gibraltar Plus as used on the Ibanez RGA121, 321F, and MBM1 (I think) Fortunately they're also cheap as dirt, since I needed to replace one on my guitar and it was like 30 bucks shipped for a custom manufactured Gotoh part.
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Jan 16, 2014 03:45
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I think even a full millimeter might have been an overestimate, because 15 minutes with a small sanding block seems to have done the trick. Still have the fine tuning to do, but the drat thing definitely fits in the pocket now. Thanks for the suggestions!
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Jan 16, 2014 03:47
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Reminder that Santana's got the worst tone in history (these days).
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Jan 16, 2014 10:42
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I've searched around, I haven't been able to find an answer to this specific question, so I hope I'm not such a fool that I've created a unique problem. I'm a new player, everywhere I've found advises a 45 degree angle to the pick, instead of picking flat to the strings. When I get over about half that, there's no release at all to the string, it just sort of glides over the rounded tip of the pick to make a sort of thin, faint sound. This is corrected if I use a sharp tipped pick, but not everybody uses those so I feel like I should be able to get a real pick attack out of a rounded one like a classic Tortex. Any idea what I'm doing wrong? I'm using a more or less classic pick grip, loose fist, pick on side of index, thumb laid over top. Thank you kindly.
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Jan 16, 2014 11:51
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Agrinja posted:I've searched around, I haven't been able to find an answer to this specific question, so I hope I'm not such a fool that I've created a unique problem. I'm a new player, everywhere I've found advises a 45 degree angle to the pick, instead of picking flat to the strings. When I get over about half that, there's no release at all to the string, it just sort of glides over the rounded tip of the pick to make a sort of thin, faint sound. This is corrected if I use a sharp tipped pick, but not everybody uses those so I feel like I should be able to get a real pick attack out of a rounded one like a classic Tortex. Any idea what I'm doing wrong? I'm using a more or less classic pick grip, loose fist, pick on side of index, thumb laid over top. Thank you kindly. This is a subtle thing you're trying to get down. I've found that when I'm angling my pick correctly that it looks flat from my perspective but other people looking at me tell me its sharply angled. I think the most important thing is to listen to the sound your picking makes. When you get very evenly spaced and consistent sounds you're holding it right.
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Jan 16, 2014 12:03
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Salt Fish posted:This is a subtle thing you're trying to get down. I've found that when I'm angling my pick correctly that it looks flat from my perspective but other people looking at me tell me its sharply angled. I think the most important thing is to listen to the sound your picking makes. When you get very evenly spaced and consistent sounds you're holding it right. That's a relief then, thank you. I suppose I'll have to give a little more credence to video taping yourself while playing, or find myself a big enough mirror so I can see what my hands are doing from a better angle. Thanks again!
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Jan 16, 2014 12:13
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I see everyone talking about attenuators recently. Is that something that is mostly for tube amps or does it make a difference with solid state amps as well? For reference, I have a Fender Mustang 3.
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Jan 16, 2014 18:05
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You don't need one, just turn down your master.
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Jan 16, 2014 18:20
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Pretty sure the whole point is to drive a tube to the hotness and get that tubular sound without the associated volume. Solid states are pretty much linear response so driving them hard doesn't change their sound. The volume knob does the same job (possible caveats apply)
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Jan 16, 2014 18:22
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Solid state power sections are designed in most cases explicitly to avoid clipping. There are some exceptions; Randall has made some FET power sections that have kinda tube sounding clipping when overdriven, for example. Another example are solid state amps that incorporate a little tube power section, usually set up with a 12[AX/AU/AT]7 and complete with a baby output transformer before the big, clean, beefy solid state power section that makes that sound loud without adding unmusical clipping of its own. But by and large, solid state amps get pretty much all their sound and feel from the input, preamp gain stages (usually JFETs), and tone shaping options. Cool solid state power amps are the exception by far, not the rule. And even if you have a cool solid state power amp, don't run an attenuator with a solid state amp. It's a bad idea, as attenuators are designed to load down tube output sections which are really very different from solid state ones of any variety, and you can damage the amp, the attenuator, or both. :-/ In most cases all you need to do is, as stated, just turn down the master volume and you're good to go. In the fancy cases where there's more to it than that, you may miss out on some of the sound, but there's not a lot that can be done about it so don't spend too much worry trying. The better solid state amps tend to take pedals well (though often they respond poorly to boosts, which can just clip the input section in an unmusical way rather than overdriving preamp tubes), so if you want to get a good sound at a lower volume maybe consider looking into a nice dirt pedal.
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Jan 16, 2014 18:49
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Sometimes you don't have a master volume, or you're more after power tube distortion than preamp distortion. In these cases, an attenuator can be useful.
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Jan 16, 2014 19:44
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Xabi posted:Reminder that Santana's got the worst tone in history (these days). Which is hilarious (though not surprising) given his rig is nothing but Mesa Mark 1s, Dumbles, and Dumble clones
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Jan 16, 2014 19:45
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Gorgar posted:Sometimes you don't have a master volume, or you're more after power tube distortion than preamp distortion. In these cases, an attenuator can be useful. Yeah, these are really good use cases for an attenuator and I personally recommend the THD Hot Plate due to a lot of good personal experience with it. Make sure to match attenuator to load, it doesn't have the do-it-all functionality that some other modern attenuators do, though. Here's a bad use case, though, and what we're talking about, and why I said so much stuff about solid state amps in my post: Koth posted:I see everyone talking about attenuators recently. Is that something that is mostly for tube amps or does it make a difference with solid state amps as well? For reference, I have a Fender Mustang 3. The Fender Mustang 3 is a DSP and solid state amplifier according to the specs page on Fender's site. Agreed fucked around with this message at 19:57 on Jan 16, 2014 |
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Jan 16, 2014 19:55
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Do they still make the thd hotplate? Somehow I heard it was discontinued or something.
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Jan 16, 2014 21:05
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Spanish Manlove posted:Do they still make the thd hotplate? Somehow I heard it was discontinued or something. Somebody forgot to tell THD!  http://www.thdelectronics.com/product_page_hotplate.html I still see them for sale at retailers, too. I know there are a lot of options, some people really dig other ones, I just happen to prefer this one
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Jan 16, 2014 21:08
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Oh good because I still need to pick one up. They stopped selling them on musicians friend so somehow over time that turned into "stopped making them" in my retard brain.
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Jan 16, 2014 21:13
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