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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Oh yeah, a palm nailer is also useful to have, especially if you need to drive a nail somewhere where you don't have room for swinging a hammer or the full-size nailer. I found mine a little tricky to work with; it required a very specific "approach" to drive the nail effectively, so I stuck with swinging a hammer for most nails. But you do want a palm nailer handy when doing construction IMO. What sold me on palm nailers was joist hangers and hurricane ties.
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# ? Oct 21, 2019 18:11 |
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# ? Jun 10, 2024 10:43 |
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Motronic posted:What sold me on palm nailers was joist hangers and hurricane ties. That's what I initially was using it for. But it proved to be useful in general. Wouldnt want to frame a full house with one, but they come in handy for general use when you're not putting in 500 of the same nail.
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# ? Oct 21, 2019 19:33 |
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Motronic posted:What sold me on palm nailers was joist hangers and hurricane ties. Oh god drat EVERY loving YES. You haven't experienced life until you have to nail ~15 pounds of Tico nails into appox 400 strongtie hangers of various flavors, and wedged into ever increasing terrible positions. A palm nailer is loud, and sucks air, but it's about a billion times easier to attach a hanger with ~6 inches between the studs.
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# ? Oct 21, 2019 23:16 |
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Methylethylaldehyde posted:Oh god drat EVERY loving YES. You haven't experienced life until you have to nail ~15 pounds of Tico nails into appox 400 strongtie hangers of various flavors, and wedged into ever increasing terrible positions. A palm nailer is loud, and sucks air, but it's about a billion times easier to attach a hanger with ~6 inches between the studs. You're giving me flashbacks
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# ? Oct 22, 2019 03:26 |
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Thanks for the replies, cabin will be approx 4*3m, 2*4” frame, 2x6 roof, OSB outside the frame, cladding outside that, insulated and boarded inside. I'm going through step by step what I need to learn and do and if a nailer will do both frame and sheathing jobs I'll get one, otherwise I'll glue and/or screw everything instead. I need to start a thread.
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# ? Oct 22, 2019 06:04 |
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cakesmith handyman posted:Thanks for the replies, cabin will be approx 4*3m, 2*4” frame, 2x6 roof, OSB outside the frame, cladding outside that, insulated and boarded inside. I thought nails were somewhat strongly preferred in framing applications? Something something shearing strength.
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# ? Oct 22, 2019 13:09 |
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Bob Mundon posted:My Japanese style Irwin Marples saw is officially pissing me off. It's actually possible it cuts more on the push stroke than pull, about ready to toss it. Isn't it supposed to do that?
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# ? Oct 22, 2019 13:57 |
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Japanese saws are supposed to be pull saws.
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# ? Oct 22, 2019 14:08 |
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gah, I knew I was going to get that wrong. I knew japanese saws were opposite but I couldn't remember which way.
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# ? Oct 22, 2019 15:02 |
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TheBananaKing posted:I thought nails were somewhat strongly preferred in framing applications? Something something shearing strength. If nothing else, someday someone is gonna need to replace studs/sheathing and/or tear down that building, and they'll hate you if you used glue to hold everything together.
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# ? Oct 22, 2019 15:38 |
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cakesmith handyman posted:Thanks for the replies, cabin will be approx 4*3m, 2*4” frame, 2x6 roof, OSB outside the frame, cladding outside that, insulated and boarded inside. Glue is NOT recommended. No one does this and there's a reason. A framing nailer will shoot different lengths and do everything you need for the frame and cornice (exterior trim). Ghostnuke posted:gah, I knew I was going to get that wrong. I knew japanese saws were opposite but I couldn't remember which way. Have you bought a northbound saw for a southbound job then?
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# ? Oct 22, 2019 16:27 |
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Personally I love screws. Specifically McFeely's pro-max screws which are specifically designed to join dimensional lumber. For example they have a 2 7/8th inch screw with 1.5" un-threaded which perfectly joins 2" (1.5") lumber. All the threads end up in one board cranking it tight to the other one. And the're self-drilling and countersinking. An impact driver plus the screws is a poor mans framing nailer in my opinion but with the advantage that it's just as easy to undo something. Granted I don't build houses or even sheds but I did improvise a decent swingset/play structure with screws and 2x4's. https://www.mcfeelys.com/mcfeelys-10-x-2-7-8-promax-wood-deck-screws-nocorode-plus-flat-head-square-drive-qty-100.html
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# ? Oct 23, 2019 01:10 |
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Screws are for making stuff tight, nails are for making stuff strong. There are specialty framing screws with bigger shanks (and Mcfeeley's sells good screws but a bit expensive. Square drive crew 4 lyfe) but generally nails are what you frame with because they bend instead of snapping and have a much much higher shear strength, not to mention being way faster to install and cheaper to buy than screws.
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# ? Oct 23, 2019 03:18 |
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comedy scrail option
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# ? Oct 23, 2019 04:03 |
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I've never hear about nails being better in any way other than cost and tooling.
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# ? Oct 23, 2019 06:49 |
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SEKCobra posted:I've never hear about nails being better in any way other than cost and tooling. Most things you nail together uses the nails in shear, where they're basically the same per cross sectional area as a screw. But you can put nails in with a gun as fast as you can bounce it along the wall, whereas a screw, even with a nice impact gun, takes 5+ seconds.
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# ? Oct 23, 2019 09:36 |
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Mr. Mambold posted:Glue is NOT recommended. No one does this and there's a reason. A framing nailer will shoot different lengths and do everything you need for the frame and cornice (exterior trim). This is why I'm asking rather than forging ahead and wasting my time and money. I've seen 18ga and 16ga nail guns sold as framing nailers, if one of those will save me hours of driving screws and it's the right tool and method I'll get one, otherwise I'll screw everything. I can't justify a £600 paslode for this job but I can justify a £180 nail gun Re: glue I've seen many recommendations to glue down the underfloor OSB as well as screws or nails, is that incorrect? cakesmith handyman fucked around with this message at 10:06 on Oct 23, 2019 |
# ? Oct 23, 2019 10:01 |
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Buy a used pneumatic framing nail gun and resell it when you're done?
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# ? Oct 23, 2019 13:25 |
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Buy a used framing nailer. Trim nailers are not sufficient. Also, subfloor install!=framing
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# ? Oct 23, 2019 14:15 |
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cakesmith handyman posted:This is why I'm asking rather than forging ahead and wasting my time and money. I've seen 18ga and 16ga nail guns sold as framing nailers, if one of those will save me hours of driving screws and it's the right tool and method I'll get one, otherwise I'll screw everything. I can't justify a £600 paslode for this job but I can justify a £180 nail gun Sounds like it's your own thread time!!
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# ? Oct 23, 2019 15:15 |
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cakesmith handyman posted:This is why I'm asking rather than forging ahead and wasting my time and money. I've seen 18ga and 16ga nail guns sold as framing nailers, if one of those will save me hours of driving screws and it's the right tool and method I'll get one, otherwise I'll screw everything. I can't justify a £600 paslode for this job but I can justify a £180 nail gun Whoever said 18 or 16 gauge for framing were lying fools. You don't need a new Paslode. Like the other guys mentioned, get a used chinesium special off Craigslist- if you go after one, just make sure the seller lets you demo it is all. Framing guns are not intricate builds. I reckon gluing down a subfloor is way overkill, if you screw it down that's more than plenty. Frankly, using your slightly used but new-to-you bang-bang framing gun on that is way more satisfying and it's not going to pull up. You know the framing nails are glue coated? The friction of driving them melts it right in. (so don't nail your kneecap like Doyle did) Run and gun, baby.
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# ? Oct 23, 2019 16:26 |
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Running a bead down your joists is fine and will help avoid potential squeaking in the future, don't use a tube a sheet though. All the glueing you do now is throwing up 2 big middle fingers to you or someone else later though thats for sure
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# ? Oct 23, 2019 16:39 |
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Interesting video on holding power / shear strength of some fasteners. I don't know enough to comment on the testing processes but it makes me feel better about building non-load bearing walls with screws. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qmajKElnwfE
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# ? Oct 23, 2019 17:08 |
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Methylethylaldehyde posted:Most things you nail together uses the nails in shear, where they're basically the same per cross sectional area as a screw. But you can put nails in with a gun as fast as you can bounce it along the wall, whereas a screw, even with a nice impact gun, takes 5+ seconds. wait what? No. e: Maybe I am misunderstanding what you are saying, but my point is below dreesemonkey posted:Interesting video on holding power / shear strength of some fasteners. I don't know enough to comment on the testing processes but it makes me feel better about building non-load bearing walls with screws. I skimmed the video so maybe he explains it, but I'm scratching my head at his decision to screw/nail into end-grain. The last third of the video is what it's all about, though -- a nail will deform under the same shear load that would snap a normal screw. Nails or Bolts for shear, screws for pull-out or non-load bearing. Hubis fucked around with this message at 20:53 on Oct 23, 2019 |
# ? Oct 23, 2019 20:46 |
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Mr. Mambold posted:Whoever said 18 or 16 gauge for framing were lying fools. You don't need a new Paslode. Like the other guys mentioned, get a used chinesium special off Craigslist- if you go after one, just make sure the seller lets you demo it is all. Framing guns are not intricate builds. https://www.screwfix.com/p/dewalt-dpn64c-xj-64mm-first-fix-air-nail-gun/5489f https://www.screwfix.com/p/dewalt-dcn692n-xj-90mm-18v-li-ion-xr-brushless-first-fix-cordless-nail-gun-bare/1710g 18ga 1st fix nail guns, you understand my confusion. Also I didn't know that, today I have learned something. Harry Potter on Ice posted:Sounds like it's your own thread time!! Sounds like it!
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# ? Oct 23, 2019 21:05 |
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Ridgid? Closing on my first home in a week, trying to decide on a tool lineup and there's a deal right now for $350 on the Ridgid Octane lineup: Hammer Drill, Impact Driver, Sawzall, Circular Saw, Charger, 6ah battery, 3ah battery. Seems like a steal to me, unless I'm missing something.
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# ? Oct 24, 2019 00:42 |
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Myrmidongs posted:Ridgid? Color doesn't matter especially as a homeowner. Does it have the stuff you need right now at the right price? Is the battery system compatible with things you think you might want or need in the near future? If yes, go for it. My personal opinion: I think the Ridgid stuff is fine. I wouldn't buy it as a main tool if I was a contractor. If you are using this for homeowner stuff you don't have that constraint. As long as you have a Home Depot.....and I think Walmart? that sell them nearby you're all set for batteries and warranty. Motronic fucked around with this message at 00:56 on Oct 24, 2019 |
# ? Oct 24, 2019 00:53 |
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I noticed in receiving we had this 9 piece Ryobi set for $299 that'd probably be perfect for a light user
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# ? Oct 24, 2019 01:01 |
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Myrmidongs posted:Ridgid? Ridgid has a great warranty on paper, and mostly is good. Just register immediately, and save the documentation. However, if you read the fine print, they can demand that you send back everything... Batteries, charger, and all tools. Their selection isn't great outside of what you have. Both Milwaukee and Makita have far far bigger selections of specialty tools. I'm a Makita 18V guy, and Milwaukee M12. Once you buy into a battery system, it's best to stick with it. My vote would be to start with Makita/Milwaukee if you're a pro. There will likely be great deals on Black Friday for starter kits, so if you can wait a month, you'll get more for your money. Check ToolGuyd and garage journal for deals. If you're not going to be really beating on them, Ryobi actually makes decent stuff. The color is awful, but who cares? \/\/ That Ryobi kit looks great, aside from only 2 2Ah batteries. Add a couple 4Ah, and your good to go. sharkytm fucked around with this message at 01:06 on Oct 24, 2019 |
# ? Oct 24, 2019 01:03 |
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Endymion FRS MK1 posted:I noticed in receiving we had this 9 piece Ryobi set for $299 that'd probably be perfect for a light user $300?????? That covers most everything. That looks like a good deal if even 3/4 of the tools are decent.
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# ? Oct 24, 2019 01:04 |
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Motronic posted:$300?????? Yeah I've never noticed a deal like that. What stood out was the sander and weed eater, those are actually useful inclusions Edit: I think we're gearing up for a pre Black Friday event, which would explain it
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# ? Oct 24, 2019 01:09 |
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Endymion FRS MK1 posted:Yeah I've never noticed a deal like that. What stood out was the sander and weed eater, those are actually useful inclusions Seriously...the $300 deals are like....a couple batteries with a single charger, drill, a little circ saw and a recip saw. And a flashlight. This one seems legit.
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# ? Oct 24, 2019 01:43 |
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Endymion FRS MK1 posted:Yeah I've never noticed a deal like that. What stood out was the sander and weed eater, those are actually useful inclusions Yeah I think I bought the $300 kit a year ago and it was missing both at a minimum. Ryobi is seriously the best single kit to own in my opinion because the value and selection basically kills everyone else (a couple compete on selection but less on homeowner stuff like cordless glue guns and soldering irons). Nails vs Screws: The video shows screws winning for shear strength but losing for being more brittle under repeated bending. Though I agree the end grain testing was weird. The nails all actually failed by pulling out.
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# ? Oct 24, 2019 01:59 |
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the dust buster is what sells it.
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# ? Oct 24, 2019 02:00 |
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I got the 7 tool ryobi kit a couple of years ago which had: Drill Sander Circular saw Dust buster Light Hot Glue gun Reciprocating saw 2 smallish batteries - 1.5Ah, charger, bag, drill bits, couple of glue sticks, sanding pads, saw blades, etc. It was $159 and I haven't seen it again since, but it was a great deal because even though all of the tools aren't the top of the line they all work fine for light duty. The hot glue gun and the dust buster are really nice and I'd buy them again (I think there four non-working dust busters in the house because their batteries all crapped out). I also cut up a lot of branches with the reciprocating saw and some brush cutting blades and it's been convenient for the price. I think the sander is the only thing I haven't used yet. I did later buy a ryobi brushless hammer drill with a 4Ah battery so I could drill some cinderblocks and that battery has been a lot better than the little ones that came with the kit but it was still a great buy for the price.
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# ? Oct 24, 2019 02:42 |
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Endymion FRS MK1 posted:Yeah I've never noticed a deal like that. What stood out was the sander and weed eater, those are actually useful inclusions I'd think the sander would be the only weak tool in the lot. I've gathered most of the others except the multi tool and all essential dustbuster, and I know I've paid way more than that overall. What sours it for me is the tiny 2.0Amp batteries. Bump it by $50 Ryobi and make those 4.0 or even 3.0. JEEVES420 posted:the dust buster is what sells it. lamo
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# ? Oct 24, 2019 18:23 |
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Last year I bought the 2 x 3ah HP+ batter deal that came with a free tool, and it's served me well. I picked the P214 hammer drill. I'm just joe-homeowner though so I use my drill like once a month or so. I actually bought the low pressure inflator and use that more than anything with my Ryobi batteries. I throw it in the pool bag and use it to inflate and deflate pool toys. Works pretty well actually. The HP+ batteries are pretty solid, though when I was hanging blinds in my house it did get a little heavy. I sort of wish I had a smaller/lighter battery and drill for that particular job.
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# ? Oct 24, 2019 18:46 |
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I was gifted Ryobi stuff when I graduated college so I've just stayed with it and accumulated tools and batteries over the years and they're all still working great. I am a homeowner/tinkerer/auto person who uses their tools on a weekly basis. My drill is probably the most used tool and its still chugging away after 8? years. I have several batteries (2x2ah, 2x4ah, 2x5ah) and the smaller batteries are nice to keep the weight down on certain tools. Other tools are nice to have the larger batteries like my impact wrench or leaf blower. The inflators are probably next on my list because they're pretty handy when dirt biking and changing pressure where you're riding. The small little circular saw has been surprisingly useful. The batteries have also lasted forever without any noticeable degradation. Honestly Ryobi has been surprisingly good in my experience. I own a few Makita corded tools but rarely need to use them. My only complaint was the original Ryobi impact wrench which didn't have multiple speeds/power and didn't have enough torque to break a lot of auto fasteners. The new tri speed one is great though. The brushless impact driver is sweet. I pretty much use that for everything other than making holes now.
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# ? Oct 24, 2019 19:51 |
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My corded and pneumatic tools are all great. All of them are probably older than me except a miter saw and a drill, and my batteries have never died
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# ? Oct 24, 2019 23:36 |
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# ? Jun 10, 2024 10:43 |
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Bloody posted:My corded and pneumatic tools are all great. All of them are probably older than me except a miter saw and a drill, and my batteries have never died A tank of compressed air is basically a battery that stores energy and makes it portable so you can pretend your pneumatic tools are battery powered for as long as a 3 gal tank of compressed air will run them!
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# ? Oct 25, 2019 03:32 |