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Just played a Music Man Sub Bass for the first time, fell in love. Only 300 bux in guitar center, even had the chance to play a 5 string proper Ernie Ball bass for 2K, and I liked the Sub better, wtf. It had a lot to do with my lack of ability playing the 5 string giving it a rattley sound due to lack of muting maybe, but still surprised at how much I enjoyed it. e: the only issue is that it didn't look pristine Shageletic fucked around with this message at 20:51 on Nov 22, 2017 |
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Nov 22, 2017 20:47
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| # ? Jun 6, 2024 21:34 |
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I'm finally building a "nice" version of the Squier VMPJ I've been playing and upgrading over the last few years. Ordered a Warmoth neck with roasted flame maple, rosewood fingerboard, 20 frets, graphite rods, cream binding, and white pearloid blocks. Also ordered a set of Hipshot ultralights with lollypop keys. At that point, though, the only thing remaining from the original bass is the body, which is agathis and admittedly a little dumpy looking. I'm sort of tempted to just buy a body too so I can put the Squier VMPJ back to original configuration and sell it whole. So maybe.... I'm basically trying to build a straight up copy of the 2011 Closet Classic Precision Pro:  but with Hipshot hardware and Nordstrand pickups. I'm thinking the roasted maple neck gives me that vintage color vibe, but because it's roasted I'm able to just give it an oil finish. edit: got a satin finish black-red-yellow burst alder PJ body too. 
DEUCE SLUICE fucked around with this message at 21:55 on Nov 29, 2017 |
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Nov 28, 2017 19:33
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Next time I have some spare money I'm going to buy this plus a black pickguard and have a Halloween bass.
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Nov 30, 2017 12:45
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Soliciting thread opinions on.... Pretty Loud Combo Amp: Ampeg BA210v2 or Fender Rumble 500v3? Affordable Jazz Bass: Squier Classic Vibe 70s or Fender MIM Standard? Unrelated question, does everyone think pau ferro fretboards look like rear end or is that just me?
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Dec 1, 2017 18:10
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Thermos H Christ posted:Soliciting thread opinions on.... Haven't heard the Ampeg, but I've seen and heard the Rumble 500. It's very good and expandable. I have a Rumble 40 v3, and I love it. Really good classic sound. For the bass: the classic vibes are good for Squier (actually, just plain good), but I just bought a MIM Jazz a few months ago, and I love it. I have had a few MIM Fenders over the years, and they were all of good quality. For the fretboard: it depends on the fretboard. I have an old Ibanez 5-string fretless that has a pau ferro fretboard, and it's nice, dark, and sleek. I've seen some that look vaguely rosewood, but are much streakier. They tend to sound the same as Rosewood, and they have the same feel, so... meh.
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Dec 1, 2017 19:08
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The Fender Dimension IV is Msician’s Friend stupid deal of the day for $400. I’ve seen similar price used. I’ve never touched one but if anyone has been looking at Fender’s version of a ‘Ray, there you go.
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Dec 1, 2017 19:59
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I just played that Ampeg the other day (I think it was that ampeg). Incredibly powerful. Also have played on a Rumble 500. Incredible tone, sounds kinda warm. It depends do you want to blow people out of their seats (choose the Ampeg) or have a loud but really non-distorting tone (Rumble). Bought that MM Sterling Sub bass instead of an Ernie Ball that cost 1400, thinking of what else I can do to improve it, other than buy strings I guess (slinkys? is that a good one for funk style bass?)
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Dec 1, 2017 20:31
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why combo?
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Dec 1, 2017 20:36
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Dyna Soar posted:why combo? I guess partly because I've always used them before, never needing to be very loud, so that's what I think to shop for. Price is another major factor, since buying (e.g.) a Rumble 500 head and a Rumble 2x10 cab is more expensive than buying a rumble 500 2x10 combo. Also simplicity, ease of transport, and it will be virtually impossible to blow the speakers by being an idiot (which I understand is a greater risk when using cabs/heads that weren't specifically designed to go together).
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Dec 1, 2017 21:27
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Plus with a 2x10 combo, you're only a speaker extension jack and a 4x10 cab away from a 3/4 stack.
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Dec 1, 2017 21:54
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Shageletic posted:
Is it one of the old SUB basses with the painted neck? Other than that neck, those were a killer value against a $1500 stingray. Slinky's I feel go dead too quickly. DR hi beams for me.
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Dec 1, 2017 21:54
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Thermos H Christ posted:I guess partly because I've always used them before, never needing to be very loud, so that's what I think to shop for. Price is another major factor, since buying (e.g.) a Rumble 500 head and a Rumble 2x10 cab is more expensive than buying a rumble 500 2x10 combo. Also simplicity, ease of transport, and it will be virtually impossible to blow the speakers by being an idiot (which I understand is a greater risk when using cabs/heads that weren't specifically designed to go together). force of habit and price i can kinda understand, but yeah blowing speakers won't happen if you're not an idiot (just check the ohms, plug in and play) and ease of transport, really? lugging a combo around is easier than just the amp if the venue has a backline or someone else on the bill brings it? our 3-piece can fit into a sedan with our heads (and amps), instruments, pedalboards and the drummers cymbals and snare. would be a lot more uncomfortable if one of us had a combo. if you don't need to play "loud", just plug in straight to the PA. you don't even need an amp for that, just a pedal like, for example, sansamp tech21. i'm telling ya, combos are a waste of space. there's a reason why they're cheap. Dyna Soar fucked around with this message at 22:02 on Dec 1, 2017 |
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Dec 1, 2017 21:57
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pumped up for school posted:Is it one of the old SUB basses with the painted neck? Other than that neck, those were a killer value against a $1500 stingray. It's one of these: http://www.guitarcenter.com/Sterling-by-Music-Man/SUB-Ray4-Electric-Bass-Guitar.gc Not made in the US tho, Indonesia.
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Dec 1, 2017 23:59
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That five-string my buddy lent me to learn on had a steeper learning curve than I'd like (and honestly I don't see myself playing in a metal band any time soon) so I went out and bought my first bass:
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Dec 9, 2017 00:03
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You made the correct choice.
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Dec 9, 2017 00:15
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http://www.guitarcenter.com/Used/Fender/Blacktop-Jazz-Bass-Electric-Bass-Guitar.gc P/J is common as dirt but I'm pretty sure I've never seen P/P before. It's definitely not a look.
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Dec 20, 2017 03:46
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Anime Reference posted:http://www.guitarcenter.com/Used/Fender/Blacktop-Jazz-Bass-Electric-Bass-Guitar.gc Fender tried them in the 1980s too, and stuff like BC Rich Mockingbirds could be had with them.  The issue with the Blacktops is that the mid pickup is moved too close to the neck so despite having two split P pickups, you won't get the classic P sound.
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Dec 20, 2017 05:15
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Remember the Stu Hamm urge bass? Talk about "not a look" E: urge ii. JPJ config.
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Dec 20, 2017 06:02
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Dec 20, 2017 21:00
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That reverse P pickup!
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Dec 20, 2017 22:12
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This would be cool without the middle p pickups and that godawful mangled lower horn
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Dec 20, 2017 22:15
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Dec 20, 2017 22:17
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What is the goon consensus on class D amps? I'm tired of lugging around my rack from the early 2000s and my back yearns for something lightweight.
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Dec 20, 2017 22:27
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Schwza posted:What is the goon consensus on class D amps? I'm tired of lugging around my rack from the early 2000s and my back yearns for something lightweight. Class D amps are great. I run a Quilter bass block into a fearful 12/6 Cabinet and my tone is easily the best I’ve ever had it. I think my pedalboard weighs more than my amp and cab combined. It’s great.
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Dec 20, 2017 22:30
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instant cred loss. they often sound great though. hard to repair, often it's cheaper to buy a new one. so if you're not into consumerism i'd steer clear. if you're fine with buying a new amp like you have to buy a new phone every few years then go for it.
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Dec 20, 2017 22:35
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My main bass weighs twice as much as my head
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Dec 20, 2017 22:43
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i have a peavey from the earyl 80s and a peavey from the early 90s. both sound awesome, weigh a ton and have never been serviced. the weight is the only downside, but i'm an able bodied man so i can lift the weight of a small child when i need to. then again you can't really skimp out with cabs, they need to be big and heavy if you want to sound good. bearfaced is good but very fragile, not something i'd recommend for heavy gigging. my 8x10 orange on the other hand can take a lot of abuse and sounds awesome. weighs a ton, too.
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Dec 20, 2017 22:45
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Schwza posted:What is the goon consensus on class D amps? I'm tired of lugging around my rack from the early 2000s and my back yearns for something lightweight. My Aguilar TH500 is awesome. Paired with the right cab you’re set. I really need to get a second GS112 for mine.
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Dec 20, 2017 22:49
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What makes their longevity so terrible? I played a rumble the other day and was surprised with how nice it sounded.
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Dec 20, 2017 22:51
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Schwza posted:What makes their longevity so terrible? I played a rumble the other day and was surprised with how nice it sounded. hard to hand solder a modern chinese PCB. an amp repairman i know said that often when they break, they break in a way that repairs are very time consuming and expensive for the client so he just orders spare parts from china. if they're not available, tough luck. buy a new one. also they've got thin boards and a thin layer of metal that the heating and cooling of the amp will more likely break the soldering than on an older, more sturdy PCB amp like say my precious peaveys (they might be hand soldered tho, especially the late 70s / early 80s amps). that coupled with them being harder to repair makes them more unreliable and easier to just replace rather than repair and last for decades. Dyna Soar fucked around with this message at 23:09 on Dec 20, 2017 |
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Dec 20, 2017 22:57
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They're fine, a bunch of companies who otherwise make good stuff shat out bad designs about five years ago though. Ampeg made some real awful class D heads that kept blowing caps for example.
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Dec 20, 2017 22:57
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Dyna Soar posted:instant cred loss. they often sound great though. hard to repair, often it's cheaper to buy a new one. so if you're not into consumerism i'd steer clear. if you're fine with buying a new amp like you have to buy a new phone every few years then go for it. bullshit, just don't buy an old Portaflex and you're fine You can get class D amps that cover any tonal range you want, and having something with 1000w that weighs 5 lbs never gets old. Not to mention that economically it's now impossibly hard to bring out a new amp into the market that isn't Class-D, so if you want something new even if you DIDN'T want one you're probably buying one anyways.
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Dec 20, 2017 23:59
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:bullshit, just don't buy an old Portaflex and you're fine well what i wrote is hearsay from an amp repairman, so take it with a grain of salt. point is, they sound great but the future of amps seems to be one of consumerism instead of the old style where the classics were used and revered for decades. in a few years your amp will fit in your pocket i guess.
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Dec 21, 2017 00:01
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Class D amps just haven't been around long enough yet to build up reverence Plenty of class D amps that are built like tanks, there's nothing inherently fragile about them. You can build them well or build them cheaply, just like literally any other electronic device.
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Dec 21, 2017 00:09
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Class D, like all amp types, is chock full of pros and cons. Class D Pros: - lightweight to the point of absurdity; a 500-watt amp won't even weight 10 pounds. Probably not even close. - can be very small. Small as in, it easily goes in the backpack with the speaker cables, instrument cables, etc. - extremely efficient. These amps produce very little heat relative to the power they produce. More bang for the kilowatt hour. - economical. You get a lot of amp for your dollar. Class D Cons: - wiring may be cheaply done. Because these amps are surprisingly simple and incredibly efficient, they can be put together without worrying about heat--and manufacturers will thus use less and cheaper solder, PCBs, etc. - features may be lacking. Because these are commonly built into small enclosures, there just isn't room for a bunch of knobs, sliders, buttons, LEDs, etc. So, the features will be On, Off, Low, Mid, Other Mid, High, Volume. - sound quality. Even the best Class-D doesn't sound as good as a more traditional A-B solid state or tube amp. Don't get me wrong, they don't sound horrible, but they're just not super great. For bass, that's not too important, but it's one of the reasons why you don't see a lot of (or any?) class-D guitar amps. So... my opinion: they're fine. I'd like to have one because my current amp is 300 watts, all-tube: it weighs 80 pounds and must ride in a car seat, and sometimes when I go to a gig, I don't want that hassle. But my Rumble 40 is a great practice/jam amp, and it weighs less than my 15 watt Squier amp from years ago.
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Dec 21, 2017 00:11
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I would absolutely dispute your sound quality bullet point. It may be different but there's tons of amazing sounding Class-D heads right now.
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Dec 21, 2017 00:15
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:I would absolutely dispute your sound quality bullet point. It may be different but there's tons of amazing sounding Class-D heads right now. Sleeps al cisneros uses an ampeg class d amp in his live rig and hes a gear nut. That still dont mean they do everythig better than Old school tube amps. You just cant replicate that sound, you know, without the tubes
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Dec 21, 2017 00:29
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They don't do "everything better" than tube amps or class A/B amps, or worse. They're just *different.* Sometimes by a lot, sometimes by hardly anything. The existence of exceptionally good Class D amps doesn't make the bad Class D amps disappear any more or less than it erases good or bad amps of any other topology. You just can't say "All Class D Amps Sound Like X" because there's still a million variables to play with, just like there is with any other kind of amp. We're living in a loving awesome time for bass gear. Embrace it. 
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Dec 21, 2017 00:39
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Schwza posted:What is the goon consensus on class D amps? I'm tired of lugging around my rack from the early 2000s and my back yearns for something lightweight. Two years ago, I bought a Markbass Little Mark 250 on the way to a weekend-long gig because I realized my Ampeg SVT-3PRO was locked in our rehearsal space and I wouldn't be able to get it out. I haven't gone back and have sold many of my friends on buying one, as a backup if nothing else. It's a fabulous amp, sounds terrific, and can be had for under $300. Slam dunk.
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Dec 21, 2017 00:52
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Class D amps have a documented higher THD issue than comparable AB amps. This is a fact. You can look it up and check out the graphs and everything. That means that by the numbers, they have a verifiable lower audio quality. I'm not saying that it's so bad that the amps are unusable--far from it. And since the sound you get is also dependent on the speaker cabinets you use, it's not something that can't be worked around or shuffled out of the speaker's range anyway. Furthermore, they're getting better all the time, and sooner or later, the THD issue will completely go away. But it is there. That "difference" you hear between the two amp types? That's part of what's going on. In the end, though, it's bass. Super high quality sound just isn't as important as we'd all like to think it is. I like to think we're there to shake the floors and let people outside the club know what they're missing; we're not painting happy little trees and whispering gossip like guitars. There's only so much advantage to be had in being a tone hound when, at gig time, almost everything above the midrange of your amp gets gobbled up by guitars, singers, and cymbals. I think the pros of having a Class D for live performance far outweigh the cons, and even in the studio, it's not all that big a deal--especially since so many studios record bass direct anyway.
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Dec 21, 2017 00:54
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