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Uthor posted:I was using my Dremel when the cutting disk broke and a piece flew across the room, bounced off the wall, and got me right in the nose. Hopefully that will learn me to wear safety goggles... I used one with a saw blade a few years ago. Subsequently i spent 3 days in hospital having reconstructive plastic surgery on my thumb.
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Mar 9, 2015 04:13
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Mooseykins posted:Get the OTC one. That tool in the other kit is specifically for Chrysler engines, from memory. I believe that OTC one is specifically for certain Chrysler engines, for sure the 420a. I know that's what I bought it for, but it's definitely usable on others. As long as the arms can grab something on the pulley, you'll be able to use it. In fact, I'm pretty sure the puller part of both of those is the same. The extra ring bit is used to hold the harmonic balancer from spinning when you're turning the bolt on the tool. You'd probably also need something similar to this to re-press the balancer to the crank snout. http://www.amazon.com/CTA-2249-Long-Reach-Harmonic-Installer/dp/B00EDN3UYI/ref=pd_sim_auto_41?ie=UTF8&refRID=1KYQ499WTSXNJHTMP8SG
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Mar 9, 2015 04:22
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PitViper posted:The extra ring bit is used to hold the harmonic balancer from spinning when you're turning the bolt on the tool. Yep. I think that one is meant for the Chrysler 3.3 (& 3.8?) V6 engines. It probably works on a lot of 3-spoke pullies though.
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Mar 9, 2015 04:39
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Pretty sure the "Chrysler-type" one is the right way to go. Same design as they use, anyway. I guess mopar junk is good for something after all!
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Mar 9, 2015 04:59
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Mooseykins posted:I used one with a saw blade a few years ago. I learned the face mask lesson the hard way last year when the cutoff disk I was using on an air powered die grinder blew apart. A whole lot of blood, an ambulance ride, and 6 stitches later, I always wear safety glasses and a full face shield when using anything that spins.
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Mar 9, 2015 05:04
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PitViper posted:I believe that OTC one is specifically for certain Chrysler engines, for sure the 420a. I know that's what I bought it for, but it's definitely usable on others. As long as the arms can grab something on the pulley, you'll be able to use it. I was just going to coat the crank snout with some anti-seize and heat the damper in the oven for a few minutes. Then use the old bolt to seat it and torque it down with the new bolt. CTA also offers the exact same puller kit that OTC has, just for drat near $40 more. 
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Mar 9, 2015 05:30
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Root Bear posted:I was just going to coat the crank snout with some anti-seize This seems like a real bad idea.
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Mar 9, 2015 08:21
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Mooseykins posted:What's your import tax like if you get some sent over? Under a grand, Nothing, Over a grand (Ausbucks) its 10% GST + customs duty. The biggest killer is the shipping- to bring a 4kg winch motor over from the US was $102 shipping off amazon....
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Mar 9, 2015 09:30
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Ferremit posted:Under a grand, Nothing, Over a grand (Ausbucks) its 10% GST + customs duty. Does Aussie have a postal service run USA address that you can apply for like we can in NZ? https://www.nzpost.co.nz/tools/youshop Its pricey and they cannot tell you the cost until it lands at the warehouse. However it cost my $27 to ship a pair of Lowa boots (2 kgs) I bought on UK ebay from warehouse to my work, with a total of 9 days door to door inc customs.
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Mar 9, 2015 11:05
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Anphear posted:Does Aussie have a postal service run USA address that you can apply for like we can in NZ? https://www.nzpost.co.nz/tools/youshop Yep! https://shopmate.auspost.com.au/ Never used it personally.
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Mar 9, 2015 11:13
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EKDS5k posted:I learned the face mask lesson the hard way last year when the cutoff disk I was using on an air powered die grinder blew apart. A whole lot of blood, an ambulance ride, and 6 stitches later, I always wear safety glasses and a full face shield when using anything that spins. Is there a recommended face mask that doesn't turn to scratched up poo poo instantly? Or am I better just buying multiples of the cheap stuff?
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Mar 9, 2015 14:12
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Sentient Data posted:
yeah its also often referred to as a ford wrench
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Mar 9, 2015 14:42
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When I managed a little computer repair shop we used the term "kinetic adjustment tool" in the job documentation. "User managed to break the connector for the IO board and bend the hinge tabs on the frame, probably by dropping the laptop. Replaced IO board, corrected hinge tabs with kinetic adjustment tool, 16oz." The few customers who twigged had a good chortle.
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Mar 9, 2015 15:23
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Root Bear posted:I was just going to coat the crank snout with some anti-seize and heat the damper in the oven for a few minutes. Then use the old bolt to seat it and torque it down with the new bolt. As cakefool said this is a bad idea. Generally the front main seal rides on the outer diameter of the crank pulley/harmonic balancer, what that means is that if you put antiseize in there, it will end up in your sump when the oil starts splashing on whatever gets squeezed out toward the inside of the motor. Use straight motor oil as lubricant. Also don't use the old bolt to pull it on, that will probably rip the first 3-6 threads out of the end of the crank - ask me how I know! Heat it to ~160 in the oven, use an extra long bolt and a stack of big rear end washers to pull it into place most of the way then use the normal bolt. It's usually pretty easy to find a longer bolt of the right size and thread pitch - Assuming you're talking about an LS series (aka Vortec engine) not a Toyota LS400 engine, the thread spec is M16x2.0, get one say an inch or two longer than factory in the same hardness spec along with a big rear end stack of 5/8 grade 8 washers from tractor supply.
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Mar 9, 2015 18:01
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kastein posted:As cakefool said this is a bad idea. Generally the front main seal rides on the outer diameter of the crank pulley/harmonic balancer, what that means is that if you put antiseize in there, it will end up in your sump when the oil starts splashing on whatever gets squeezed out toward the inside of the motor. Denmah just whacks them on with a hammer and a block of wood, but I'd worry about trashing the thrust bearings against the crank by doing that.
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Mar 9, 2015 20:01
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Root Bear posted:I was just going to coat the crank snout with some anti-seize and heat the damper in the oven for a few minutes. Then use the old bolt to seat it and torque it down with the new bolt. If the bolt is long enough, this is the way to do it. I'm sure you can get installer tools with a longer thread and a nut with a thrust bearing for this exact purpose. I'll have a look. I've done lots of the Chryslers (very few American V8s here) which needed the puller removed with a puller, tap the pulley on with a hammer to get it just in place, then use bolts to pull it down starting with a longer bolt, then the proper bolts and finishing by rattling it home with an impact gun. 
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Mar 9, 2015 20:10
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Jonny Quest posted:Is there a recommended face mask that doesn't turn to scratched up poo poo instantly? Or am I better just buying multiples of the cheap stuff? Impact resistant stuff is generally designed to be soft, so it will show scratches fast.
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Mar 9, 2015 20:12
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Just think of every scratch as proof that by spending a little bit on a face shield, you saved  on reconstructive surgery (or you can just fall back to "chicks dig scars")
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Mar 9, 2015 20:40
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Jonny Quest posted:Is there a recommended face mask that doesn't turn to scratched up poo poo instantly? Or am I better just buying multiples of the cheap stuff? Multiples of the cheap stuff, I guess. I've had the same one for a year and it's pretty dinged up, but usually whatever I'm doing is making enough sparks that visibility isn't really a consideration.
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Mar 10, 2015 05:23
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My friend just IMmed me -- he's an engineer for Snap-On now, and can get tools for half price. It's fuckin' impact wrench time. 
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Mar 10, 2015 06:53
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Jonny Quest posted:Is there a recommended face mask that doesn't turn to scratched up poo poo instantly? Or am I better just buying multiples of the cheap stuff? The harbor freight one ( http://m.harborfreight.com/adjustable-face-shield-46526.html) has treated me well. I also have a Uvex Bionic from Zoro (coupons regularly). Both are shaped to avoid your shoulders, and are pretty comfortable.
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Mar 10, 2015 09:49
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Safety Dance posted:My friend just IMmed me -- he's an engineer for Snap-On now, and can get tools for half price. Hey there fellow chicagoon. any chance you could ask your friend about the stud removal tool that's recommended in so many threads. I couldn't get snap ons site to work so here's an ebay link with the part number http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/171704894542?lpid=82&chn=ps
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Mar 10, 2015 14:36
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Safety Dance posted:My friend just IMmed me -- he's an engineer for Snap-On now, and can get tools for half price. Ingersoll-Rand impact guns are (genuinely) better than Snap-on ones. While Snap-on ones have slightly more power, they're heavy and loud, suck to use and have a poo poo direction change switch. Also, i've known quite a few people who've had to send them in for rebuild after a little over a year when they lose a lot of power. My IR 2135QTi, on the other hand, still going strong as ever after 8 years. IR have just released a new 1/2" impact too.
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Mar 10, 2015 14:45
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We've used IR impact guns for years on the Copenhagen Historic Grand Prix, under what I consider very severe work conditions. Basically, we attached standard metal crash barriers to hay bales, about 2.5km worth, in order to preserve the historic atmosphere. So we used the impact guns to drill 1 meter long threaded rods through the bales, then attach a plate and a nut to the other end and wail on it until everything was nice and tight. All while driven from a mobile compressor feeding way too much pressure with no water separator and no auto-luber. So instead we just lubed the guns constantly, which resulted in us getting absolutely filthy with moisture, oil and dirt, while the constant impact hammering for hours on end on resonating metal barriers was probably enough to give any OSHA representative a stroke (we did have ear protection for those who asked for it). We wore out countless cheapo impact guns doing this, only the IR ones held up in the end. It actually makes me a little sad that we don't have to put up those barriers any more. It was an amazing "make or break" initiation for new volunteers.
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Mar 10, 2015 15:12
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Mooseykins posted:Ingersoll-Rand impact guns are (genuinely) better than Snap-on ones. While Snap-on ones have slightly more power, they're heavy and loud, suck to use and have a poo poo direction change switch. Also, i've known quite a few people who've had to send them in for rebuild after a little over a year when they lose a lot of power. Oh dag, I was talking about the cordless electric impact. I wish I had shop air... or even a shop. SouthsideSaint posted:Hey there fellow chicagoon. any chance you could ask your friend about the stud removal tool that's recommended in so many threads. I couldn't get snap ons site to work so here's an ebay link with the part number When I finally get around to calling in a favor from him and getting an impact, I'll ask about this too. e. Also, the listing expired.
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Mar 10, 2015 16:27
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Mooseykins posted:Ingersoll-Rand impact guns are (genuinely) better than Snap-on ones. I've seen a lot of those IR titanium guns around shops, but every single one was missing the retainer ring that keeps the socket from falling off.
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Mar 10, 2015 17:03
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Safety Dance posted:Oh dag, I was talking about the cordless electric impact. I wish I had shop air... or even a shop. In that case, get the new Snap-on electric impact. It's ridiculously powerful. Like insanely powerful. Very very nice piece of kit. (But like $750 retail.) TWSS posted:I've seen a lot of those IR titanium guns around shops, but every single one was missing the retainer ring that keeps the socket from falling off. Can't say i've seen or had that issue. I have 3 IR Titaniums and all have been flawless. Retaining rings usually come off when the corner of the slip gets caught on the hole drilling in an impact socket and instead of being wiggled off, it's forced off. Operator failure. I love IR air tools. I had their 118MAX air hammer and it's a beast.
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Mar 10, 2015 21:13
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I've been looking into working with nylon webbing - it would come in handy for fixing straps on my jeep top, sleeping bag straps, just dumb stuff like that. I'm going to get some webbing, waxed nylon thread, a few sets of plastic buckles and triglides*, some velcro, just stuff like that. I'm also looking at the Speedy Stitcher Sewing Awl. It's supposed to be pretty good for heavier materials. Has anyone used one of these things? I'll mostly be doing pretty small projects, so I don't mind the manual work. *a plastic thingy that you slide webbing through. A triglide.
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Mar 10, 2015 22:18
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Mooseykins posted:In that case, get the new Snap-on electric impact. It's ridiculously powerful. Like insanely powerful. Very very nice piece of kit. (But like $750 retail.)
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Mar 10, 2015 23:09
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Preoptopus posted:Coworker got one I use it from time to time. Such an utter joy not to have to mess around with a filthy air hose. Also if you do side work or live in the junk yard, suddenly you feel limitless on what you can achieve with just a floor jack. And maximum torque all the time! They're loving noisy when they're impacting, but they have an enormous amount of power. I'm really tempted by one, but owe my dealer 650 and really can't justify spending that much on an impact gun. Filthy air hoses.. every time i'm back at my old shop i loving cringe at the state of the air hose and some other things that my mate there never cleans. 
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Mar 10, 2015 23:20
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I've the electric IR 1/2" and it's proving a fantastic tool. It's seen some fairly hard work and hasn't missed a beat yet.
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Mar 10, 2015 23:49
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Mooseykins posted:And maximum torque all the time! They're loving noisy when they're impacting, but they have an enormous amount of power. I'm really tempted by one, but owe my dealer 650 and really can't justify spending that much on an impact gun. Ours hang between every bay along with gas/air hoses and I try to keep mine clean on slow days but sometimes you just get caught up. Cant wait for some customer lady to brush up on one in her nice fur coat... Hope its not in my bay.
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Mar 11, 2015 02:39
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Does anyone know of a good tool for removing insulation from multiple wire cables, without damaging the insulation on the individual wires inside? I fix a lot of extension cords and charging cables (and the occasional 7-wire trailer harness), and my current strategy of being reeeeaally careful with a utility knife just isn't doing it for me anymore. My SnapOn guy recommended either of these from Knipex, but it would have to be a special order, and I'm not convinced that a more expensive one will do a better job anyway. It's not exactly a heavy duty task. Any good cheaper alternatives?
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Mar 11, 2015 06:23
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EKDS5k posted:Does anyone know of a good tool for removing insulation from multiple wire cables, without damaging the insulation on the individual wires inside? I fix a lot of extension cords and charging cables (and the occasional 7-wire trailer harness), and my current strategy of being reeeeaally careful with a utility knife just isn't doing it for me anymore. I have one similar, in black, could actually be Knipex but I'm not sure. What I do remember is that they're gently caress off expensive, I was unable to find one at a good price. Worth every penny though, especially when doing a lot of repeat jobs on similar wire where you can get it dialed in just right.
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Mar 11, 2015 06:45
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EKDS5k posted:Does anyone know of a good tool for removing insulation from multiple wire cables, without damaging the insulation on the individual wires inside? I fix a lot of extension cords and charging cables (and the occasional 7-wire trailer harness), and my current strategy of being reeeeaally careful with a utility knife just isn't doing it for me anymore. Wouldn't basically any wire stripper do this? i.e The 'T-Rex' style ones.
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Mar 11, 2015 08:44
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They're not always ideal if the wire is very thick and/or you want to strip a longer part of it. The one EKDS5k posted is really good. Just don't do what my uncle's apprentice did, and play around with it idly, without understanding what it does. The term "circumcised finger" was used...
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Mar 11, 2015 09:40
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Preoptopus posted:Coworker got one I use it from time to time. Such an utter joy not to have to mess around with a filthy air hose. Also if you do side work or live in the junk yard, suddenly you feel limitless on what you can achieve with just a floor jack. Funny, that's what I thought of my cordless 4.5" angle grinder and sawzall I cut anything I can, then go for the 8lb sawed off sledgehammer and a foot long cold chisel if there are cuttable things left after I am out of battery, then switch to the 3/4" breaker bar, then unscrew everything I actually need to unscrew from the part to be able to use it again. Makes getting major drivetrain parts (engine, trans, tcase, front/rear axle assemblies complete, etc) sooooo much easier.
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Mar 11, 2015 13:40
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Which brand are they?
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Mar 11, 2015 14:28
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Sawzall is a Ridgid, angle grinder is a Ryobi. Note on both, if you don't follow their rules to a T and read all the fine print and register all your stuff on their stupid website they WILL dick you around on the extended warranty, i.e. tell you to gently caress off if you actually want to use it.
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Mar 11, 2015 23:19
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drat, that's good to know considering I bought a bunch of ryobi poo poo a few months ago thanks!
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Mar 11, 2015 23:36
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