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I made another little stool. This one is walnut and hackberry.
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May 27, 2015 15:35
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signalnoise posted:Thanks for the advice guys. After thinking about it and considering that I really will not have any use for the tools afterwards because I am not a woodworker and don't aspire to be one, I have asked around my acquaintances and I have contact with a couple professional carpenters as it turns out. So I'll probably just ask them to do it. Depends entirely on your spec. If you're happy with a plywood torsion box and some cheap bolt-on legs, it's probably less than a day's work for a competent carpenter with a decent shop, maybe a few hundred plus materials. If you want geekchic levels of quality and fiddly bits, expect to pay geekchic prices. mds2 posted:I made another little stool. This one is walnut and hackberry. Nice, some lovely figuring on the legs.
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May 27, 2015 18:50
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bimmian posted:Nice, that should turn out well. Is that flush or raised? Looks raised but it could just be the slightly different shades giving it that appearance. Its slightly raised at the moment maybe by a mil or so. I'll plane it all back once I've got it glued in. For the most part the inlay timber is 3mm thick
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May 27, 2015 20:58
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mds2 posted:I made another little stool. This one is walnut and hackberry. That's beautiful.
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May 27, 2015 21:27
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mds2 posted:I made another little stool. This one is walnut and hackberry. Purdy. How'd you attach the legs to the seat? And the seat, did you cut that with a bandsaw? I like it.
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May 28, 2015 01:36
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Mr. Mambold posted:Purdy. How'd you attach the legs to the seat? And the seat, did you cut that with a bandsaw? I like it. The seat has 3/4" deep mortises in the bottom and the legs have skewed tenons. Yes I did bandsaw the seat. It was the MAX that my old craftsman 12" bandsaw could handle.
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May 28, 2015 02:03
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 That's the parts fitted now for the gluing up. There's a few gaps here or there but they should come good with some filling I think.
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May 28, 2015 03:46
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It doesn't all look this good but it's some pretty nice cedar. Milling it down is a lot of work though. At this point I have it planed to a consistent thickness and rough cut to length. I'm going to plane it once more then straighten the edges.
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May 28, 2015 06:37
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wormil posted:It doesn't all look this good but it's some pretty nice cedar. Milling it down is a lot of work though. At this point I have it planed to a consistent thickness and rough cut to length. I'm going to plane it once more then straighten the edges. That looks like purpleheart in that light.
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May 28, 2015 16:42
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mds2 posted:The seat has 3/4" deep mortises in the bottom and the legs have skewed tenons. Yes I did bandsaw the seat. It was the MAX that my old craftsman 12" bandsaw could handle. Gotta say that's one well tuned old craftsman bandsaw.
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May 28, 2015 16:43
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Mr. Mambold posted:Gotta say that's one well tuned old craftsman bandsaw. It really is. It is totally worth the time to keep it tuned up. Once that thing gets out of alignment, or starts vibrating, it turns into a real mother fucker to work with. I always do the "Snodgrass" setup when changing blades. And I've recently figured out how easy it is to sharpen my own blades.
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May 28, 2015 17:03
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mds2 posted:I always do the "Snodgrass" setup when changing blades. And I've recently figured out how easy it is to sharpen my own blades. Can you expand on this?
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May 28, 2015 17:11
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Mr. Mambold posted:That looks like purpleheart in that light. How good is purpleheart for small projects like boxes and stuff? Woodcraft had a few planks of it and I thought about buying one or two for a project.
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May 28, 2015 17:20
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Spazz posted:How good is purpleheart for small projects like boxes and stuff? Woodcraft had a few planks of it and I thought about buying one or two for a project. It's hard as hell and very dense. It can be hard on your tools, but anything you make out of it is gonna last and it looks fantastic with the right finishing.
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May 28, 2015 17:25
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thespaceinvader posted:Can you expand on this? Sure. Alex Snodgrass is the "bandsaw guy" and has a bunch of videos on how to properly setup a bandsaw. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU (no relation)
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May 28, 2015 17:45
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Spazz posted:How good is purpleheart for small projects like boxes and stuff? Woodcraft had a few planks of it and I thought about buying one or two for a project. Its hard. Smells bad when you cut it. And looks beautiful. I love using it. The first box I ever made when I started woodworking was out of purpleheart.
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May 28, 2015 17:47
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For those who like numbers:Wikipedia posted:The Janka hardness test measures the resistance of a sample of wood to denting and wear. It measures the force required to embed an 11.28mm (.444 in) steel ball into wood to half the ball's diameter. pre:Balsa: 100 White Pine: 380 Black Walnut: 1010 Red Oak: 1290 Hard Maple: 1450 Purpleheart: 1860 Osage Orange: 2040 Lignum Vitae: 4500
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May 28, 2015 18:44
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What about desert ironwood?
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May 28, 2015 19:30
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thespaceinvader posted:What about desert ironwood? 3260
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May 28, 2015 19:32
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Less than I would have thought, having messed with some - but I think a lot of the apparent hardness is because it incorporates silica which dulls the poo poo out of tools?
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May 28, 2015 19:33
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Still pretty god drat hard, clocking right up there with ebony.
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May 28, 2015 19:36
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thespaceinvader posted:Less than I would have thought, having messed with some - but I think a lot of the apparent hardness is because it incorporates silica which dulls the poo poo out of tools? Bolivian cherry, aka jatoba: 3650. It also has a lot of silica and oil iirc. mds2 posted:
Interesting.....
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May 28, 2015 23:17
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It's pretty simple if you believe good old Matthias... http://woodgears.ca/bandsaw/sharpening.html
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May 28, 2015 23:31
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thespaceinvader posted:It's pretty simple if you believe good old Matthias... http://woodgears.ca/bandsaw/sharpening.html Sweet! This is what I did, just used a different Dremel grinding wheel. And I left the blade in the saw. Worked great though. Wish I would I started doing this years ago.
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May 28, 2015 23:46
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Alright so I guess if I want to gently caress around with some hardwoods I should actually learn how to correctly sharpen my chisels. I bought that Narex set that someone linked a few pages ago and it's pretty awesome. What should I buy to keep them nice and sharp? Also, are there any articles or videos online that outline how to cut and clean dovetail joints using chisels? All of the ones I've seen involve a fret saw, which I don't have, and the last time I used a coping saw it looked more like a wave than a flat surface.
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May 29, 2015 13:29
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Spazz posted:Alright so I guess if I want to gently caress around with some hardwoods I should actually learn how to correctly sharpen my chisels. I bought that Narex set that someone linked a few pages ago and it's pretty awesome. What should I buy to keep them nice and sharp? Paul Sellers is the go-to guy for anything to do with hand tools. You can start with just sand paper: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ki8tt-VjwqI But I really like my diamond stones: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a6ykVzL2VAM There's a nice 5 part series on making a dovetailed caddy too: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3XaBeexFFFU I recommend signing up for a free account on his woodworkingmasterclasses.com website where you can get access to more free videos that aren't available on youtube.
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May 29, 2015 16:40
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Cpt.Wacky posted:Paul Sellers is the go-to guy for anything to do with hand tools. As long as there is more fast cut insanity by that first production company. 
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May 29, 2015 17:22
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Cpt.Wacky posted:There's a nice 5 part series on making a dovetailed caddy too:  Just watching his technique shows me how little I know. Thanks for the suggestions. Do you guys think Woodcraft would have decent sharpening supplies that aren't too overpriced? There's one that's about 45 minutes from me and worth the trip.
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May 29, 2015 17:51
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Spazz posted:
You can check their website for prices, but even the smaller woodcraft stores will have a decent selection of diamond and wet stones.
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May 29, 2015 17:55
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Spazz posted:
My advice is to get a combination coarse/fine oil or diamond stone and make a strop with some green polishing compound. There's a lot of confusing information about sharpening but from what I can see it's all out there just to sell you more crap. It's important to know that having more stones with different grits only reduces the amount of work you have and doesn't change the outcome. So when you are just starting and have 4 chisels and 1 plane to keep sharp it's not really a big deal to go from coarse to fine. But if you ever start having a dozen or more planes to keep sharp and beveled correctly you might then think about investing in different grits in between to speed up the process. Also I'd avoid water stones, at least to start. They work great on the super hard Japanese steels but they're pretty expensive, messy, require a bit more work to maintain, and there's a lot of bad information about them in the west. I use a $10 oil stone from Canadian Tire and a strop with white jeweler's rouge and a 1" chisel takes me like a minute to sharpen. Plane blades take a bit longer but I only use a few different planes so I just deal with it for now. I'd also switch to a green polishing compound to get it a bit more polished faster but I have the white stuff so...
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May 29, 2015 19:08
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My advice is to get a set of DMT diamond plates. I have a full set of Norton waterstones, 220 through 8000 grit. They work great and will put a mirror edge on anything. But the DMTs do they same thing about 100 times faster. I got my set of DMTs this last Xmas and I have not touched my water stones since.
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May 29, 2015 19:37
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The DMTs are all I use after the initial grinding/flattening. They cut faster than stones and I don't have to worry about them not being flat. The only issue I've had is my rough plate is a little rusted because I forgot to dry it.
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May 29, 2015 20:14
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I always wet mine too. Well a wipe with a damp cloth basically. But they can be used dry, which is another plus.
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May 29, 2015 20:24
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I always use my DMTs dry.
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May 29, 2015 21:29
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Are DMT plates something like $200 per or is there cheaper places?
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May 30, 2015 03:21
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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003NCVFC4/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_z8rAvb0GFTN2X Those are what i have. I wish they were bigger but they work. $95 for three.
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May 30, 2015 03:25
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I have these, http://www.amazon.com/DMT-D8C-Dia-Sharp-Continuous-Diamond/dp/B0001WP1L0 https://www.amazon.com/DMT-D8F-Dia-Sharp-Continuous-Diamond/dp/B0001WP1LK https://www.amazon.com/DMT-D8E-Dia-Sharp-Continuous-Diamond/dp/B0009H5C5M
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May 30, 2015 04:45
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oxbrain posted:I have these, That's what I have, don't have the course yet though, only fine and extra fine.
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May 30, 2015 13:46
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Plane Question: I have a corrugated-sole double-patent date Stanley-Bailey #4 plane. Are these rarer or any more sought-after than a "standard" smooth-soled single-date #4?   
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May 31, 2015 00:54
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Heeeey I need some help. I run a drum shop and my wood guy stopped carrying the wood I use for heads. It's 1/4" ply, with 3 internal "veneer" plies. I've gotten it in Maple, Ash, Mahog, and Walnut, but I'm open to anything but Luan or Birch. I buy it in 4x8' and rip it 3 times long ways, then make 4 angled chops on a 10 or 12" chop saw. The pieces can be stacked in the chop, so processing it only takes like 20-30 minutes a sheet. What I'm asking is this: 1. Does your wood guy have this stuff? 2. Do you have the tools required to cut a sheet into 15 15.25" hexagons 3. Can you ship them to me? 4. How much is this worth to you? I know this is a shot in the dark, but hey man, gotta try it. 
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May 31, 2015 03:13
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