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HexDog posted:I need to get a new jack for my XJ now that it has a 3" lift and 31's on it. What does everyone else buy? I just use my HF aluminum racing jack with a block of wood on it to lift the axles, then put the big 6 ton jackstands under the frame (they just barely lift it a bit at their max height). There's no way I can realistically jack up the frame.
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Jul 22, 2013 02:40
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mod sassinator posted:I just use my HF aluminum racing jack with a block of wood on it to lift the axles, then put the big 6 ton jackstands under the frame (they just barely lift it a bit at their max height). There's no way I can realistically jack up the frame. Yeah I'll just do the same I suppose. I just see everyone around town with those gigantic hi-lift jacks.
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Jul 22, 2013 03:29
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HexDog posted:Yeah I'll just do the same I suppose. I just see everyone around town with those gigantic hi-lift jacks. Yeah I thought about using a hilift, but without nice rock rails welded to the frame it's tough to lift from the side. You can get a little add-on to lift from the wheels, but I wouldn't trust lifting the front wheels without having a really good way to lock the steering (don't want the wheels to turn and drop the whole thing).
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Jul 22, 2013 03:31
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Yeah, I'd just use a regular jack and the tall jackstands. That being said, my favorite accidental feature of my redneck bumpers made out of 2x6 1/4-wall box tubing is that a high lift jack prong fits perfectly into the end of each one. So I can lift any corner of my jeep with zero damage and very little chance of the jack tipping over.  Bam. High lift goes right in and stays there. I was originally going to cap the ends, but decided not to after the first time I had to jack it up.
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Jul 22, 2013 03:38
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My cherokee has really been pissing me off lately. The bad: 1. It was slow when I got it and I'm pretty sure it's gotten slower. I really have to kick it in the nuts to maintain speed on anything except for flat land. 2. It's got a few handling suspension/handling/steering gremlins that I can't track down. 3. Yet another cracked exhaust manifold, not really a big deal I think i have a good one at my moms place 4. It's been running a little warmer than I'd like. Especially with the air on when I'm not going 70. 5. 15mpg and a 38 mile drive each way to work. 6. I have to tear up the carpet and fix a hole in the floor before my next inspection. 7. Rear passenger door won't open. 8. other small poo poo like paint scratches, and minus a fender flare. 9. It's an automatic 10. Not posi The good: 1. It's mine 2. The interior is in pretty good shape. 3. everything works except for the one door. 4. No rust except for the hole in the floor I have to fix. I think I'm just trying to talk myself into getting something else. I dunno /rant fps_bill fucked around with this message at 03:51 on Jul 22, 2013 |
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Jul 22, 2013 03:40
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Hi jeepgoons, Am I doing this whole XJ thing right?  EDIT: Is there a "wrong" way?
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Jul 22, 2013 05:11
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owls or something posted:Hi jeepgoons, Where's your beer  ?
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Jul 22, 2013 21:25
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And your sagging headliner.
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Jul 22, 2013 23:47
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Alright, our 99 XJ was out of service for a few weeks because of a seized front brake and the fact that I have another Jeep I can drive that lets me procrastinate. Last night I got around to replacing all the calipers/rotors/pads just because it needed it anyway and bled the lines, and after that while cleaning up I fired it up and let it idle for about 20 minutes. Cut to this evening and I go hop in it to go through the new pads' break-in procedure and while it will turn over it will not start. The battery is a little old and weak so I switched it with the battery from our 2001 Cherokee thinking maybe it had enough juice to turn a starter but not enough to properly fire the plugs, but the 01 fired right up while the 99 still won't do anything but crank. After that I dumped a gallon of gas in to be sure the gas gauge wasn't faulty or something and I hadn't somehow run it dry in the few times I fired it up while it was sitting and then tried again- still just cranked. I heard the fuel pump pressurize the system when the key was turned to on, and with the jeep off when I popped the feed line off the fuel rail it spit gas as soon as the seal was broken so there doesn't seem to be an obstruction or pump failure. I dug out my $5 Autozone spark tester and got very strong sparks on the wires for cylinders 1, 3, and 6. So, what's the next most likely culprit? I mean, if I've got fuel at the rail and a spark what exactly would be between there and combustion- whatever component provides timing control for the fuel injectors maybe? I'm still figuring this poo poo out 
I eats my spinach fucked around with this message at 02:36 on Jul 24, 2013 |
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Jul 24, 2013 02:28
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Professor Awesome posted:Alright, our 99 XJ was out of service for a few weeks because of a seized front brake and the fact that I have another Jeep I can drive that lets me procrastinate. Last night I got around to replacing all the calipers/rotors/pads just because it needed it anyway and bled the lines, and after that while cleaning up I fired it up and let it idle for about 20 minutes. Has the crank position sensor ever been changed? I'd be willing to bet quite a bit it's that or a similar sensor (I think there's also a camshaft sensor near the distributor that can go out and cause similar problems).
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Jul 24, 2013 03:58
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mod sassinator posted:Has the crank position sensor ever been changed? I'd be willing to bet quite a bit it's that or a similar sensor (I think there's also a camshaft sensor near the distributor that can go out and cause similar problems). I just got back from taking care of the problem, after I made that post I hit up Google again with a different search phrase and found someone that had the same problem along with a diagnosis. CJ7-Tim posted:Give it some gas pedal when starting.  I started it by giving it some gas and drove it around town for about 4 minutes with my left foot on the brake, my right foot on the gas, and shifting between drive and neutral to regulate my speed while keeping the engine manually revved up until it remembered it was supposed to like loving idle on it's own or something I'll see if the ECU reboots again over the next couple days and if that's the case I'll start checking the alternator, grounds, and other wiring as suggested. I did disconnect the battery three times over the last couple days which I guess was also listed as a potential cause- the battery was nearly dead from parasitic drain after a month of sitting around with the security system armed (whoops) so I disconnected it last night to recharge before I started it and then again today when I couldn't get it to do anything but crank. I eats my spinach fucked around with this message at 06:29 on Jul 25, 2013 |
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Jul 24, 2013 04:28
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Professor Awesome posted:I just got back from taking care of the problem, after I made that post I hit up Google again with a different search phrase and found someone that had the same problem along with a diagnosis. You don't need to drive it. Just sit in it for 5-10 minutes with your foot on the gas. edit: I used to run my battery down all the time because the alarm system would flash the 4 ways unless I turned on the parking lights. For some reason(I'm guessing the switch in the door is broken since the dome light doesn't come on), my Jeep doesn't chime when the door is open and the lights are on so I'd always forget to turn them off.
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Jul 24, 2013 09:06
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owls or something posted:Hi jeepgoons, Looks like you're a veteran, and it's very thoughtful of you to provide cushions to the passengers who get to laugh at uou while you curse and bang trying to get the voodoo mojo right that allows you to enjoy that perfect 5 minutes or so before something else rattles loose. I love my Jeep.
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Jul 24, 2013 09:39
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gileadexile posted:
If something isn't rattling horribly I worry that it's broken off.  I started up my YJ for the first time in a month since I've been in California on training. It griped a little at first but I let it run for a while and it smoothed out.  This CB antenna mount refuses to stay rust free. I had wire wheeled it down to white metal and hit it with some kind of anti rust paint. Oh well - it's like 1/8 in steel. edit: OOPS! forgot thumbnails Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 17:20 on Jul 24, 2013 |
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Jul 24, 2013 17:02
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Don't ever buy a beat up Currie Currectlync from a buddy hoping to refresh it for cheap. $60/tie rod end   And it for some reason the passenger side end needs replacing it's $130 because it's built into the bar.The thing is seriously beefy, and I've heard it can tighten up steering a little bit so it should be nice! Astonishing Wang fucked around with this message at 00:18 on Jul 25, 2013 |
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Jul 25, 2013 00:13
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Yeah, Chryslers that use JTEC ECUs (Jeep/Truck Engine Computer, used 96-01 on XJs, 96-?? on Dodge trucks, 97-?? on TJs, 96-98 on ZJs) tend to do that dumb "forgets how to idle" thing. I jam a random credit card/ID badge under the throttle stop and walk away for a couple minutes.
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Jul 25, 2013 01:05
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Found a '00 XJ Sport (4.0, 4x4, auto), lifted, with 31" tires, looks to be in good shape locally, going to check it out friday morning. Hoping it's not gone by then. It looks about perfect - even had the engine replaced with an '05, so no worries about the head crack issue. One question: Were Cherokees sold as 49/50 state legal in '00? I only ask because it has AZ plates on it, and that's a potential problem. They DID say they have smog already done, which they shouldn't have been able to do on a non-50 state legal car, but ... it's still got me worried. Anyway, what all do I need to look for? I know rust, especially on the floor plan.
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Jul 25, 2013 03:03
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Yeah, there were precat and non precat editions for 00. Check the sticker under the hood and if you're paranoid, make sure there are catalytic converters in the downpipe where it connects to the front and rear cast exhaust manifolds instead of just tubes. It'll be quite obvious. All 01s got precats. That engine might be bullshit, unless you have documentation from them to prove it. I recommend looking through the oil fill cap to see if TUPY is cast into the top of the cylinder head, here's a position reference so you can find it: 
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Jul 25, 2013 03:08
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Killer. That helps ... I'd seen that the TUPY thing was put on the later engines, but I didn't know if it was possible to see it without valve covers off. I'll bring a flashlight 
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Jul 25, 2013 03:14
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'05 into an '01 may not be possible at all - since it was TJ-only after MY'04, I believe they changed the mount machine process for the block since commonality with the XJ and WJ wasn't required anymore. Could be wrong on that, as it's four years past my familiarity.  Head would certainly work, though.I'd pay close attention to driveline vibrations on any XJ, especially one lifted for 31" tires (what is that, 3.5-4" unless they added extra bumpstops and never took it off pavement?). Most people won't pay for the proper precautions to keep abnormal wear at bay, so most lifted XJs I come across are in dire need of work. Hell, I lifted mine ~3" at 103k and angled the pinion properly, and an Advance Adapters SYE and double-cardan DS still weren't enough to smooth it out entirely (hoping it's just front U-joints - drove it for the first time in months and forgot how awful the driveline NVH is). I've put 110k on my 0331 and changed the oil tonight - I admittedly don't buy into the high failure rate (higher, sure, but we're not in "Toyota 3.0 V6 sludge" or "Dexcool-soaked intake gasket" attrition rate territory here), but I can't say I don't check it carefully for signs of failure regardless. Radiator blew up on me a couple months ago, so I've got an all-TIG'd Champion two-row ready to drop in shortly.
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Jul 25, 2013 03:29
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OneOverZero posted:'05 into an '01 may not be possible at all - since it was TJ-only after MY'04, I believe they changed the mount machine process for the block since commonality with the XJ and WJ wasn't required anymore. Could be wrong on that, as it's four years past my familiarity. You are 100% correct, thanks for catching that when I didn't. Either the head only has been swapped (actually better, that head is the good one) or the motor has been swapped along with some accessories, and it would require motor mounts you can only get from Brown Dog. So if they aren't obviously aftermarket motor mounts (the part that goes from the engine block to the rubber bushing, that is) and/or the accessories don't appear to be a custom setup/swapped and spliced, the guy is either ignorant of what exactly was done or full of poo poo. Honestly the TUPY head on a good XJ 4.0 shortblock is the best outcome here, because the 04/05 or so TJ and possibly WJ 4.0s had an issue with the oil pump drive gear grenading and causing sudden lack of oil pressure anyhow.
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Jul 25, 2013 03:37
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OneOverZero posted:'05 into an '01 may not be possible at all - since it was TJ-only after MY'04, I believe they changed the mount machine process for the block since commonality with the XJ and WJ wasn't required anymore. Could be wrong on that, as it's four years past my familiarity. 31" tires and a small lift aren't too bad. My XJ has 2.5" lift in the front and 3" in the rear with 31" tires. The only driveline vibration I had was caused by a bad wheel bearing. Once that was fixed the car drove great. I did however put aftermarket lower control arms on that are bent inward to prevent the tires from rubbing at full lock steering--I noticed that would happen if I wasn't too careful on the stock control arms.
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Jul 25, 2013 04:35
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mod sassinator posted:31" tires and a small lift aren't too bad. My XJ has 2.5" lift in the front and 3" in the rear with 31" tires. The only driveline vibration I had was caused by a bad wheel bearing. Once that was fixed the car drove great. I did however put aftermarket lower control arms on that are bent inward to prevent the tires from rubbing at full lock steering--I noticed that would happen if I wasn't too careful on the stock control arms. I have the same set up as you, except without the aftermarket lower control arms. What brand/model did you put on?
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Jul 25, 2013 15:02
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mod sassinator posted:31" tires and a small lift aren't too bad. My XJ has 2.5" lift in the front and 3" in the rear with 31" tires. The only driveline vibration I had was caused by a bad wheel bearing. Once that was fixed the car drove great. I did however put aftermarket lower control arms on that are bent inward to prevent the tires from rubbing at full lock steering--I noticed that would happen if I wasn't too careful on the stock control arms. I was going to say, even 3.5" and 33s is a good size if you know how to bumpstop properly, and is becoming the norm. Personally I'm 6.5" and 33s and plan on jumping to 35s once I swap in a HP30 instead of my crappy LP. Personally I'd recommend IRO or Clayton for control arms. commissargribb posted:This CB antenna mount refuses to stay rust free. I had wire wheeled it down to white metal and hit it with some kind of anti rust paint. Oh well - it's like 1/8 in steel. http://www.eastwood.com/ew-rust-con...CFa87MgodqSIABQ Phosphoric Acid is your friend, kill any rust you couldn't get off completely then re-primer and paint. Astryl fucked around with this message at 15:47 on Jul 25, 2013 |
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Jul 25, 2013 15:44
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HexDog posted:I have the same set up as you, except without the aftermarket lower control arms. What brand/model did you put on? Not sure of the brand since the previous owner had it put on, but I originally had a 2.5" budget lift with rubber spring shim in the front and shackle extension in the back. The rear springs were sagging pretty badly so I had them replaced with a 3" skyjacker lifted spring back on the stock shackle. Front lower control arms are from Rusty's: http://www.rustysoffroad.com/jeep-s...heels-pair.html
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Jul 25, 2013 18:06
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Oh god, what am I doing wrong? I think I've installed everything correctly, this is a 2013 Mopar top. It seems like that check strap is preventing it from coming down any further. Edit: Nevermind, that's a tight son of a bitch. For content: Adios old Jeep, it's been real.  Hello new Jeep, beep beep.  New wheels/tires are on the short list of things to accomplish, as well as a wishlist at 4wd that's getting quite expensive. if wishes were knishes fucked around with this message at 02:32 on Jul 26, 2013 |
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Jul 26, 2013 02:13
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slipfish posted:
Am I the only one who likes the exterior look of the TJ more than the JK?  That being said if I had a choice I'd pick a brand new JK for sure. Congrats on the upgrade!
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Jul 26, 2013 03:06
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SBJ posted:Am I the only one who likes the exterior look of the TJ more than the JK? JKs look a lot better without the elephantiasis in the bumpers and fenders.
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Jul 26, 2013 03:20
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Ozmiander posted:JKs look a lot better without the elephantiasis in the bumpers and fenders. I agree with you 100%. I plan on getting stubby bumpers and a set of these (barring Wisconsin's fender laws that I haven't looked up yet) to cut down on the chubbyness.
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Jul 26, 2013 03:54
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slipfish posted:I agree with you 100%. I plan on getting stubby bumpers and a set of these (barring Wisconsin's fender laws that I haven't looked up yet) to cut down on the chubbyness. Those Smittybilt fender doo-dads are interesting, I can't tell if I love them or hate them. However I found something that made me love them. Someone did this to theirs in Canada that has draconian fender laws:   Although once you get 35-37" wheels under those stock fenders, they aren't so big any more. The bumper is terrible though, but if you remove all of the plastic and trim it into a stubbie, blank off the holes for the lights, you end up with a not too bad simple bumper: 
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Jul 26, 2013 07:26
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tuna posted:The bumper is terrible though, but if you remove all of the plastic and trim it into a stubbie, blank off the holes for the lights, you end up with a not too bad simple bumper: Not bad at all, I wish it were like the TJ where all you had to do was rip out the milk jugs and be done with it, but I might be doing this. Stupid WI DOT posted:(3) The tires on any vehicle required to have fenders may not protrude more than 2 inches beyond the fender line at the highest point of the tire. The measurement shall be from the original fender line of the vehicle as equipped by the original manufacturer. Ugh. Anybody know the largest tire size I can get on the stock carrier before I have to start looking at aftermarket? I'm looking at 285/70-17's right now, with some 4.5" backspacing steel wheels. Also, I read somewhere else that 285 was about the largest you can get without modifications, how snug is this? I'm planning on getting a suspension lift in there eventually, but that might be a year or so away.
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Jul 26, 2013 15:04
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So, my new clutch and flywheel came in for my 2000 TJ. Besides PB Blaster and beer, what special tools will I need? What size are the flywheel bolts so I know I have the right impact socket? Will a typical auto parts store's rental slide hammer work for removing the pilot bearing?
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Jul 26, 2013 22:07
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By reg in Maine, no treaded portion of the tire should protrude past the flare. 2" is actually more than we get.
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Jul 26, 2013 22:11
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Anyone know which side the body harness runs down on a cherokee? I have a feeling it runs down the drivers side which may make things interesting tomorrow when I get to plaz out rusty metal and weld in new.
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Jul 26, 2013 23:10
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SBJ posted:Am I the only one who likes the exterior look of the TJ more than the JK? I looked for a jeep for probably a year before deciding on an 06 rubicon cause that is the last year of the TJ. I have wanted a jeep for longer than I can remember and JKs just didnt "fit" my dream.
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Jul 27, 2013 00:55
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commissargribb posted:By reg in Maine, no treaded portion of the tire should protrude past the flare. 2" is actually more than we get. What I find ridiculous is that it's limited to 2" beyond the OEM fender line, rather than a max overall width. Putting flares or wider fenders somehow isn't good enough. fps_bill posted:Anyone know which side the body harness runs down on a cherokee? I have a feeling it runs down the drivers side which may make things interesting tomorrow when I get to plaz out rusty metal and weld in new. Yup, it's on the driver's (left) side. It stays on the floor/sill along the doors, then moves up over the wheel well, and mostly stays just below the window at the rear.
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Jul 27, 2013 03:19
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Darchangel posted:What I find ridiculous is that it's limited to 2" beyond the OEM fender line, rather than a max overall width. Putting flares or wider fenders somehow isn't good enough. So they can't sell JKs?
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Jul 27, 2013 03:25
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Darchangel posted:Yup, it's on the driver's (left) side. It stays on the floor/sill along the doors, then moves up over the wheel well, and mostly stays just below the window at the rear. FML think there's enough slack in it to move it around while I cut floor?
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Jul 27, 2013 03:47
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fps_bill posted:FML think there's enough slack in it to move it around while I cut floor? Yes.
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Jul 27, 2013 06:53
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I'm changing the shocks on my '98 XJ and the only metric nuts I can find to use for the upper front and lower rear shock mounts are class 8 (not to be confused with grade 8 for people that are skimming). Is that strong enough or should I just reuse the original hardware?
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Jul 27, 2013 18:33
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