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Geburan
Nov 4, 2010

Google Butt posted:

Make sure you cut the throttle before you crash/land

The first time I managed to fly in to a metal goalpost, so that was a fair break. The second I bonked nose first into the dirt at slow speed and no throttle and it still snapped. Perhaps the props included in the FT power pack I got were made of dragonfly wings. I’m hoping the replacements I will buy will be more durable, but wasn’t sure how much to expect with a tractor powered trainer.

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evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

I mean props are really consumables but I very rarely break any when I land my fixed wings. I programmed flaperons on both my planes tho.

Laserface
Dec 24, 2004

in a few weeks I am moving house and thus will no longer have a 5 acre empty paddock to fly my 5" around in. I currently have a X-racer X-1 inductrix clone thing with a full BF3 board in it, and thats fine if there is zero wind but I was wondering what the best brushless miniquad is for outdoor use?

like, how large can you reasonably go for flying around in the street/local park? 2"? 3"? Just something that I can fly in a soft breeze really, since theres always somebreeze.

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

Depends on the proximity to soft targets. I wouldn’t fly anything above 2” on 2s near humans. 2” 3s is babyhawk R territory and I’m not putting fleshy bits anywhere near that.

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!
Anyone (still) flying dRonin... We just posted a test build with my LQG poo poo to get wider feedback. If anyone wants to tinker.

https://forum.dronin.org/forum/d/513-call-for-test-lqg-control-loop

Inimicul
Oct 14, 2006

Shenanigans!
I would love to have a brushless osd whoop and seen the offerings from boldclash b06 series and the BetaFPV 65 and 75 pros. There's a ton of videos of the 75 outdoors with the 703 motors but almost nothing with the 65 / 603s. Does anyone have experience with these?

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!
Hmm, the guys over here on IRC have an interesting idea in testing. Running 4S motors on 6S batteries/voltage, by capping the throttle signal to 67%. Seems to work out pretty well. Now the idea going further with this is to have some power reservoir to go a bit past the 67% when necessary. It draining when boosting, and refilling when being at low throttle.

ImplicitAssembler
Jan 24, 2013

Aaand I just had my Mauch Power Cube blow up. This is the second in a row. First one may have been self inflicted. This one definitely isn't and at $185 a pop it's not fun any more.
The problem is that there really isn't any decent alternatives for handling 12S power systems.

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

Those look p fancy, have you opened them up to try and figure out the failure mode?

ImplicitAssembler
Jan 24, 2013

I have the PowerCube3 with a Pixhawk, 5v & 12v out. On the first one, the mosfets on the 12v rail clearly blew, (flame, smoke, etc), and Mauch initially offered to replace it.
My own post-mortem, however revealed that the resisted ring on the XT90-AS had slipped and was making direct contact with the main connector, so there was no surge protection (and the internals of the XT90 was very black, etc) and that was likely the cause. Mauch recommends using AS150's for 12S applications, but as they have the same level of resistance as the XT90AS and I probably wont pull more than 40A, I figured that XT90-AS would be good enough. (They might have been, if the resisted part hadn't slipped!).
Anyway, emailed him, told him that the problem was most likely on my end and that I would pay for the replacement. He then replied by saying that he would upgrade the shipping and cover the import taxes, which was nice. (It still cost him $80!)
Got new one installed and every thing was fine. Was literally doing the last set of checks before taking the new heli out for it's maiden and the servos would no longer engage. Get the multimeter out and I have 2.2v out on my servo rail.
I plug the old module in (which still has a functioning 5v rail) and everything is fine.
I've disassembled it and there's nothing obvious.
I've emailed him and he's trying to replicate the issue, I think.
No one else makes comparable products. I *could* get a basic powermodule for the pixhawk ($50) and then 3 separate 12S becs at $35 each, but it would be just as expensive, making the wiring a nightmare and wouldn't be any real guarantee of reliability either.
What it has taught me, is that I need a back-up power solution for my servos.

Brekelefuw
Dec 16, 2003
I Like Trumpets
Total newb question.

I bought an Inductrix FPV RTF, and I have decided that I would like to upgrade to either a Spektrum DXe or a DX6e.
Both of them have 2 options when purchasing. With AR610 receiver or transmitter only

If I buy the transmitter only version, does it still work, or is that only for people who already have a receiver they use and just want the new radio?

Slash
Apr 7, 2011

Brekelefuw posted:

Total newb question.

I bought an Inductrix FPV RTF, and I have decided that I would like to upgrade to either a Spektrum DXe or a DX6e.
Both of them have 2 options when purchasing. With AR610 receiver or transmitter only

If I buy the transmitter only version, does it still work, or is that only for people who already have a receiver they use and just want the new radio?

Transmitter only is the option you want. The Inductrix already has a receiver(rx) built into the main circuit board(flight controller).

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

What you should do instead is get a QX7 and a multiprotocol module.

Brekelefuw
Dec 16, 2003
I Like Trumpets

evil_bunnY posted:

What you should do instead is get a QX7 and a multiprotocol module.

Why is that?

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

Brekelefuw posted:

Why is that?
Same money, OpenTX, good gimbals you can upgrade later. And you can bind to literally everything.

Geburan
Nov 4, 2010

evil_bunnY posted:

Same money, OpenTX, good gimbals you can upgrade later. And you can bind to literally everything.

Let’s be fair though. Setup in a Taranis system isn’t as user friendly and little to no documentation is provided. You have to be okay with reading online wikis, watching YouTube vids, and asking in forums. Taranis is the Linux of controllers. If you are up for it, it definitely gets you more for your money, but there is a trade off.

Brekelefuw
Dec 16, 2003
I Like Trumpets
I did get in to this hobby knowing it would involve tinkering, as do all of my hobbies and career.

As long as I can find tutorials it should be fine.

Google Butt
Oct 4, 2005

Xenology is an unnatural mixture of science fiction and formal logic. At its core is a flawed assumption...

that an alien race would be psychologically human.

Without a doubt frsky is the way to go

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

Geburan posted:

Let’s be fair though. Setup in a Taranis system isn’t as user friendly and little to no documentation is provided. You have to be okay with reading online wikis, watching YouTube vids, and asking in forums. Taranis is the Linux of controllers. If you are up for it, it definitely gets you more for your money, but there is a trade off.
For a multi channel airplane maybe but setting a new quad model on opentx is literally pushing next, next, next finish.

Brekelefuw
Dec 16, 2003
I Like Trumpets
Ordered the Taranis with a iRangex IRX4 Multi module.

Laserface
Dec 24, 2004

When are frsky releasing the Xbox style radio? The qx7 is too big

king of the bongo
Apr 26, 2008

If you're brown, GET DOWN!

Inimicul posted:

I would love to have a brushless osd whoop and seen the offerings from boldclash b06 series and the BetaFPV 65 and 75 pros. There's a ton of videos of the 75 outdoors with the 703 motors but almost nothing with the 65 / 603s. Does anyone have experience with these?

My 0703 motors are so fragile outdoors I gave up on my brushless rkh66. The bells pop of in crashes on anything hard and it is hard to jam your fingers in the ducts to slide them back up. Have you seen 1102 motors with 40mm props or did you want something ducted?

Slash
Apr 7, 2011

Starting to get reasonable at this drone racing lark now. Here's a few close laps from our local car park practice session. It's taken about 3 months of practicing once a week to be able to string together some reasonable laps.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZsweeHPbphQ
Still lots of improvement to go.

(Sorry about the colour balance, had the GoPro white balance setting wrong.)

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

Brekelefuw posted:

Ordered the Taranis with a iRangex IRX4 Multi module.
Good times.

Inimicul
Oct 14, 2006

Shenanigans!

king of the bongo posted:

My 0703 motors are so fragile outdoors I gave up on my brushless rkh66. The bells pop of in crashes on anything hard and it is hard to jam your fingers in the ducts to slide them back up. Have you seen 1102 motors with 40mm props or did you want something ducted?

My first build on a 110 frame was almost with the 1102s but I opted to go with 1104's instead. In retrospect it was the right way to go and I'm glad I followed the advice to ditch my ultra light build idea in favor of one with much better power to weight ratios. The down side is that it is not something I'd want to fly around the office so I'm back to looking at the ultra small builds like the new generation of brushless whoops popping up.
It looks like BetaFPV and the rest of China have stopped using microscopic e-clips in favor of laser welding the shafts. People are reporting good numbers and up to 5 minutes of flight times on 0603 65mm ducted frames. I'm starting to see more flight videos and even Stu has reviewed one now. Between the BetaFPV, Boldclash B06, and banggoods newest BH64 / 68 options, it looks like there's going to be tons of options just in time for winter to be over and the rain season to begin in earnest.
The parts look to be 90% the same in each of them. Some variations in camera, vtx, and hoods, but the FC, motors, and frames all look to be the same rebrands. I may as well flip a coin and go with whatever's on sale.
Normally I would hold onto my money and wait for some more refinement but I'm fresh out of drones after last weekend. I took my Babyhawk R out for a spin and the video on my goggles cut out while it was pretty high up. Dead battery. No warning. :/ I ripped them off and tried to get a visual. I thought I saw it and tried to steer it back but decided I wasn't looking at my BHR after all. Who knows where it had gotten off to during that time. Right after I ordered the 2.5" kit too. :argh:

bring back old gbs
Feb 28, 2007

by LITERALLY AN ADMIN

Combat Pretzel posted:

Hmm, the guys over here on IRC have an interesting idea in testing. Running 4S motors on 6S batteries/voltage, by capping the throttle signal to 67%. Seems to work out pretty well. Now the idea going further with this is to have some power reservoir to go a bit past the 67% when necessary. It draining when boosting, and refilling when being at low throttle.
Hey, I have some nonsense for you to sift through:

rcgroups posted:

PS Jenkins builds of upcoming betaflight 3.4 are looking rather tasty:

- dual gyro filters, either of which can be set to PT1, Fast Kalman (exactly the RF code, but set by entering setpoint), BQRC, or Butterworth in order 1-6
- Optional additional moving average filter on gyro, user sets the number of points to average.
- Two-stage Dterm PT1 filtering (set a second PT1 at double your normal one and say goodbye to Dterm noise)
- Simplified hardware gyro filtering choices in CLI, consistent support for 'experimental' mode in 32k and 8k modes across nearly all gyros.
- Ability to set Dterm transition to 0, not just 0,01, so no more Dterm glitch when crossing zero.
- 'Decoupling' of weight and error in D calculation.
- Improved CPU usage with the dynamic notch, especially useful at 16k or 32k but some improvement at 8k.
- lots of other stuff


ATTAAAAACK! What does this mean?

advion
Jul 25, 2005
It all looks like moonspeak to an fpv quad newb such as myself.

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!

bring back old gbs posted:

ATTAAAAACK! What does this mean?
The way the FKF was implemented was it being sort of a pre-filter to the actual current software gyro filter. For a while, before people actually looked into it, they thought the FKF did something special and didn't really question that arrangement. Because you know hurrr Kalman and rs2k control engineer d'excellence!

Eventually people figured out that it does gently caress all that what a Kalman filter was supposed to do. Notably, because it doesn't actually model anything. It's function is just that of a PT1, like the regular gyro filter, plus some extra action via moving average over two values (which frankly doesn't do much in the grand scheme).

After a whole lot of drama, Betaflight figured, that if stacking two filters improves things, they ought to implement a semi-flexible filter framework (for both main filter and the separate D-term filter), to recreate the sort of filter cascade like above, but with your own configuration (mostly to appease the idiots that still think the FKF does something special, because math proof apparently doesn't count). Plus enable an arbitrary width moving average (if you select two points and stick it on a PT1, you have the FKF).

tl,dr: There's now two gyro filter stages, and you can stick whatever filter you want into each stage. That being PT1, FKF or its biquad based equivalent BQRC, or the new biquad that can be pushed up to the 6th order (the higher the order, more signal delay, FYI). --edit: I guess I forgot the main point. Stick a PT1 at around 300hz in the pre-stage to start and look what it does.

--edit: I think there's also going to be a filter randomizer, to enable semi-blindtesting of poo poo.

No idea about the D-term stuff. Especially the decoupling bits, gotta read Github I guess.

I can't find that "decoupling" stuff in the commits on the quick. I have no idea what that even means.

I think I found it. Looks like just a code path optimization, not a functional change.

Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 15:23 on Mar 25, 2018

moron izzard
Nov 17, 2006

Grimey Drawer
Are there any decent manufacturers of larger quad frames for 16" plus props beyond something like, Tarot, or am I going to have to design something myself? I just want something extremely minimal to strap my sensors onto and get 30-40 minutes per flight.

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

Alta? e: nvm, it's a full kit. How many motors are you thinking about?

evil_bunnY fucked around with this message at 20:13 on Mar 26, 2018

ImplicitAssembler
Jan 24, 2013

Sounds like a job for the new heli that I'm developing :D.

What's the weight of the sensors?

moron izzard
Nov 17, 2006

Grimey Drawer

ImplicitAssembler posted:

Sounds like a job for the new heli that I'm developing :D.

What's the weight of the sensors?

Micasense Rededge at best, a gimballed mirrorless camera at worst. I can design a frame if I have to (I just really dont want to)

evil_bunnY posted:

Alta? e: nvm, it's a full kit. How many motors are you thinking about?

4

ImplicitAssembler
Jan 24, 2013

It's right in the area where I'm aiming at. However, it'll probably be at least 3-4 months before I'm really ready to sell anything and it wont be cheap. (~$5k ).
It will be awesome, though :).

Golluk
Oct 22, 2008

Geburan posted:

I built a Tiny Trainer and have managed to fly all of 5 seconds and shatter two props. It looks like the Bixler 3 may be on sale for $70. I’m thinking a pusher might increase my survivability a bit. Is the Bix 3 decent or should I be looking at something else?

It's what I learned to fly on. Well, the Bix 2. I have the Bix 3, but I've only every flown it after I learned to fly, so no major crashes. My only concern with it is they now use these plastic pins to hold the wings on. I had two kinds of repairs to make, the front fuselage tearing up and off just infront of the wings (nosedived the dirt). And the wing tearing off at the fuselage (not landing level and cartwheeling). If those pins just rip the foam, easy enough to fix. But if those break, I think you're buying replacements. Otherwise I've been happy with it.

Best advice I can give you, give it lots of throttle, and get away from the ground asap. Gives you far more time to correct mistakes and figure things out. Then practice landing in the sky 20 feet up a few times. Easiest landing approach for me was to fly over my shoulders, then land flying away from myself.

Getting myself ready for the spring, I had a look at current VTx and antenna offerings for 5.8ghz. Decided to give the Race Day Quads Mach 2 VTx a try. Along with some of these new lindebald antenna (Strixx Hoot and VAS ion). Be interesting to see how they compare to my older VAS Airblades.

Golluk fucked around with this message at 20:47 on Mar 28, 2018

The Eyes Have It
Feb 10, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums
Yeah I totally could have saved past me a lot of repairs on my Bixler if I had been able tell him “full throttle and don’t wimp out” instead of the more intuitive go slow and easy approach.

Slash
Apr 7, 2011

VAS Ion works great on my Mini Drak. Been 2km+ on 200mW with no problems.

Golluk
Oct 22, 2008
I'm looking to see if it works better than the Airblades. I was using an Aomway 5.8ghz 200mw (pretty sure they pump out closer to 300mw), and was getting flyable video 5km out. 3km was no problem.

The Dregs
Dec 29, 2005

MY TREEEEEEEE!
Does anyone here know anything about RC controlled balsa kits? My son and I just made one of those rubber band powered Guillow kits, and he expressed interest in building an RC version. It sounds fun, but I don't know the first thing about them.

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

Please learn on a foamie because holy loving fixing crashed balsa looks *painful*

radical has a bunch of ~$30 kits.

evil_bunnY fucked around with this message at 19:03 on Mar 29, 2018

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The Dregs
Dec 29, 2005

MY TREEEEEEEE!
I assumed the balsa were more sturdy than the foam kits. Did I have it backwards? Plus they're really fun to build, at least the rubber band ones.

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