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 A reasonable frame will have quite a bit of depth - if a "thick mat" is too thick for your frame your frame is not worth using
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Dec 17, 2014 21:58
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Yeah, I'm confused by this. When I get prints, it's just a print on a piece of paper - probably 2-3 times the thickness of white printer paper. That will fit in any frame, and mats are generally thin enough that one would fit, too. I can specifically ask for (and pay for) mounting, where they glue the print to a piece of rigid material, various forms of plastic and cardboard are offered for a range of prices. Most mounts are about 1/4 inch thick, some a little more or a little less. They wouldn't fit into a cheap frame, but might into a good frame. I like mounted prints because I can hang them directly on the wall / stand them on a shelf with just a bit of sticky tack. The mount is light but rigid and durable enough to display my pictures without requiring frames at all. Are you accidentally ordering mounted prints?
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Dec 17, 2014 22:02
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Saint Fu posted:Don't most frames come with a cardboard backing? I usually just use the mat+photo+supplied backing. It sounded like the print shop was somehow attaching (gluing?) the print to an additional thick backing which didn't fit in the standard frames. Cutting his own mat boards would allow him to get just prints only (no mats/backing) and frame them that way. Or presumably he could ask the print shop to keep doing the mats but just stop gluing them to the thick backing.. Exactly. What I get back are: window mat [on top of] print [mounted to] cardstock that is 2-3x thicker than the mat. If I could use two regular-thickness mats everything would fit fine.
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Dec 17, 2014 22:43
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ExecuDork posted:Are you accidentally ordering mounted prints? There's no option not to unless by special request. All their matted prints come mounted to the thick backing. I guess maybe they're assuming I'm going to put them into a frame and then seal the back up with paper.
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Dec 17, 2014 22:49
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That 70s Shirt posted:There's no option not to unless by special request. All their matted prints come mounted to the thick backing. I guess maybe they're assuming I'm going to put them into a frame and then seal the back up with paper. That 70s Shirt posted:Exactly. What I get back are: window mat [on top of] print [mounted to] cardstock that is 2-3x thicker than the mat. If I could use two regular-thickness mats everything would fit fine.
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Dec 17, 2014 22:57
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Get your prints done somewhere else, jesus. That's some small-print, opt-out, banned-by-federal-law fleece-em marketing. Do they tack on fees for giving you your stuff in an envelope? Good frames are very good things to have, but are also expensive. If you're messing around with things that you consider good enough to print and hang but maybe not good enough (yet) to sell / give as gifts, by all means use cheap frames but for gently caress's sake, get basic prints, unmounted.
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Dec 18, 2014 00:48
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I need to take advantage of the fact that my mom has her own framing shop
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Dec 18, 2014 03:42
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BANME.sh posted:I need to take advantage of the fact that my mom has her own framing shop I'm good friends with a dude who owns a framing shop but it turns out everything's still laffo expensive because framing and matting in general is laffo expensive. I mean he gives me as much of a discount as he can but it's not a huge percentage of the price.
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Dec 18, 2014 08:50
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SoundMonkey posted:I'm good friends with a dude who owns a framing shop but it turns out everything's still laffo expensive because framing and matting in general is laffo expensive. My wife runs the framing department at an art store. What we do is find decent used frames and refinish them if need be, since the glass & matting isn't too bad. For her it's ordering custom frames that is the most expensive part. But then again we just take the glass for free, since her company orders new glass for every frame order so there is tons of cut glass laying around that they aren't going to use anyway.
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Dec 18, 2014 15:25
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Simple question - I own a Nikon D5100 with 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 and I want to take a city skyline picture at night. Would like to use the manual setting but don't know where to start. What would you recommend for the settings?
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Dec 18, 2014 21:19
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You're going to be doing a long exposure, so make sure your camera is stable - put it on a tripod if you have one, or a table or something if you don't. You're going to have the shutter open for a while, like a few seconds at least, so don't try to hold it. Your lens will be sharpest at an intermediate aperture, probably around f/8 or f/11. Set aperture to something in that range. Set your ISO low; you're doing a long exposure anyway, might as well reduce as much noise as you can. ISO 100 is good. Get your camera to suggest a shutter speed. Either stick it in Av mode (and it will choose a speed) or leave it in manual and watch the little indicators in the viewfinder. Set focus to infinity. If the autofocus can't deal with the darkness, put it in manual focus mode. A city at night is a bunch of bright pinpoints of light surrounded by lots of very dark things. As a wild guess, a shutter speed of 5 or 10 seconds seems reasonable. To cut down on camera shake, use the timer feature - that way the motion from you pushing the button has a chance to stop before the shutter opens. If your camera has a mirror-up mode - sometimes this is part of the 2- or 3-second timer with a remote feature, you don't need a remote to use this - turn that on. You might want to turn off in-camera noise reduction because that seems to just take a long time and not really accomplish anything. It's digital; go hog wild! If your first picture is too dark / light / whatever, change something and shoot another!
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Dec 18, 2014 21:29
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ExecuDork posted:You're going to be doing a long exposure, so make sure your camera is stable - put it on a tripod if you have one, or a table or something if you don't. You're going to have the shutter open for a while, like a few seconds at least, so don't try to hold it. This is pretty comprehensive and good. Does in-camera noise reduction serve any purpose then? Is there a time to use it and a time to disable it? Also I started taking long exposure city shots like ten days ago and I found that either the darks are very dark or the highlights are way bright. Without resorting to HDR or bracketing are there any steps I can take to reduce losing information at the extremes?
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Dec 18, 2014 22:10
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Beige posted:This is pretty comprehensive and good. Does in-camera noise reduction serve any purpose then? Is there a time to use it and a time to disable it? Many prefer to control the noise reduction manually in post rather than letting the camera decide for you. Shoot in RAW to capture more dynamic range, and you'll be able to tone down the highlights and increase the shadows in post a lot easier.
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Dec 18, 2014 22:22
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Beige posted:Also I started taking long exposure city shots like ten days ago and I found that either the darks are very dark or the highlights are way bright. Without resorting to HDR or bracketing are there any steps I can take to reduce losing information at the extremes? no
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Dec 18, 2014 22:32
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I thought Portra 400 was the answer if something seemed impossible.
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Dec 18, 2014 22:35
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Pukestain Pal posted:I thought Portra 400 was the answer if something seemed impossible. It is, but it's difficult to squeeze it under the screen protector on a DSLR.
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Dec 18, 2014 23:01
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ExecuDork posted:It is, but it's difficult to squeeze it under the screen protector on a DSLR. Sometimes I doubt your commitment.
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Dec 19, 2014 10:22
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I took an interesting picture of the sunset with my phone today, and afterward realized that it's also the winter solstice. I then remembered that I had also taken a picture of the sunset on the summer solstice earlier this year. I'm wondering if I can turn these two into a diptych. Summer solstice sunset by khyrre, on Flickr Ventura Boulevard / Winter Solstice by khyrre, on FlickrI've never made a diptych before, and to be honest I don't know if these two could even conceivably go together. Some of the problems I'm running into:
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Dec 22, 2014 06:08
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If you're struggling so hard just to try and match them together, it's probably a good sign that they don't work together as a diptych.
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Dec 22, 2014 06:21
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404notfound posted:Does it even look like there's something worthwhile there? Nice pics (for a cell phone) individually though.
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Dec 22, 2014 08:25
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404notfound posted:
This right here. It's cool that they're both solstice pics, but I would never have known that based on the images. Adding text is probably not the solution, ever, unless you're going for the Facebook market.
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Dec 22, 2014 08:31
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Do it just like you did in that post: two images presented next to one another. If you think it needs it, add a title functioning as a caption stating that they are the summer and winter solstices. Don't make it unnecessarily complicated; all it needs is to be clear.
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Dec 22, 2014 14:54
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Google Butt posted:I've got my eye on the c/y 35-70 f/3.4 after looking through the thread on Fred Miranda. Does anyone have experience with this lens? I used to have it for my 5D. It's sharp, sure... but it's push-pull zoom (which I like on the EF 100-400, not so much on something that doesn't require a long throw like that) and 35mm isn't very wide. Couldn't make myself like it, sold it in favor of a 24-70L.
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Dec 22, 2014 15:52
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Does anybody have experience with either of these websites? hdewcameras eglobalcentral The prices seem amazing for the D7000 +18-105mm - only £80 or £100 more than a used D7000 body on mpbphotographic. Seems almost too good to be true, so I don't wanna drop that much money on a potential scam 
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Dec 22, 2014 16:10
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Fraction posted:Does anybody have experience with either of these websites? If it seems too good to be true then it is. Don't use those websites. Edit: I did 90 seconds of research and found out they are cheaper because they are selling Grey imports. So... yeah don't use them if you want to own a camera that can be serviced by the manufacturer or if you care about warranties. RangerScum fucked around with this message at 16:25 on Dec 22, 2014 |
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Dec 22, 2014 16:23
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I've bought from HDEW and Nikon did work under warranty on the camera. Your mileage may vary.
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Dec 22, 2014 18:10
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coldplay chiptunes posted:Nice pics (for a cell phone) nice attitude you got there e. 
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Dec 23, 2014 04:19
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SoundMonkey posted:Adding text is probably not the solution, ever, unless you're going for the Facebook market. Brief captions can be really nice next to framed prints.
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Dec 23, 2014 04:48
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Bubbacub posted:Brief captions can be really nice next to framed prints. Yeah this is certainly true, I just meant on the image itself.
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Dec 23, 2014 08:35
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I'm too poor to buy a speedlight. Is the pop-up flash useful for anything? And is the process of metering a person or thing simply: point camera at subject >> set camera to correct exposure >> step back/recompose >> start shooting without changing settings?
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Dec 23, 2014 20:21
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Beige posted:I'm too poor to buy a speedlight. Is the pop-up flash useful for anything? Terry Richardson basically gets away with it for his portraits.
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Dec 23, 2014 20:29
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Beige posted:I'm too poor to buy a speedlight. Is the pop-up flash useful for anything? With a DSLR or film camera? It all depends whether you're using TTL or manual flash settings and whether you're using your flash on or off the camera body. With a DSLR I just set my camera up how I think it'll work and use test shots until you're happy with exposure. One important thing to note with any camera where you're using hotshoe flash on the body is that your shutter speed really will control the brightness of the background and your flash will keep your foreground subject lit to the same degree regardless.
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Dec 23, 2014 20:33
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Pukestain Pal posted:Terry Richardson basically gets away with it for his portraits. But it only works if you have your dick hanging out.
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Dec 23, 2014 20:34
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Metering will depend on the metering mode of your camera - I know basically nothing about it, but how much and what part of the frame the camera is actually reading (could be just the middle, could be a bunch of points all over, could be many points but weighted towards the center) is important. My hunch is your approach is basically correct, though it will lead to lots of blown-out skies with reasonably well exposed people outdoors, which is better than the alternative of properly exposed skies and badly underexposed subjects. As far as the pop-up flash goes, it's alright. It's right on-axis with the camera so you get those characteristic patterns of hard shadows when you use it, and it's not powerful enough for anything more than a few metres away. I've seen many, many photos where the subject was simply too far away for the pop-up to handle it. There's the business-card trick to bounce your pop-up off the ceiling, too: stick the white backside of a business card into the top of your camera so it's angled in front of the flash to send the light upwards. Most interiors have light-coloured or white ceilings (assuming you're not in an auditorium or something) and the up-then-everywhere light pattern is better than straight-forward for simple people-I-know kinds of shots. Find somebody upgrading their flashes and buy a last-generation 3rd-party flash, like a Yongnuo or Sigma or something from a couple of years ago. I've got a pair of Sigma 530 (current generation is 600-something) that I bought for around $150 a piece, separated by a couple of years. Or find an old Vivitar light-shitter 280 or whatever they're called for like $40, and a slave trigger for 99 cents on eBay. If you never mount the flash on your camera you don't have to worry about high-voltage old flashes, and the slave trigger will happily pop based on your pop-up. Then you have an easy way to set up a shot with a big, bright flash from the side or above or somewhere with just a little bit of light from your pop-up. Set up the hardware (buy or steal some gaffer tape) then spend some time messing with settings until you find exposures and effects you like.
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Dec 23, 2014 20:36
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The only time the popup flash looks okay is when it's acting as a fill for a backlit scene. For any other purpose, it's pretty much relegated to social media snapshot status.
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Dec 23, 2014 20:46
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404notfound posted:The only time the popup flash looks okay is when it's acting as a fill for a backlit scene. For any other purpose, it's pretty much relegated to social media snapshot status. Terry Richardson does not approve. 
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Dec 23, 2014 20:49
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Beige posted:I'm too poor to buy a speedlight. Is the pop-up flash useful for anything? Sure, it can help with backlit subjects like if you are taking a picture of someone in front of a window or something. If you are interested in flash, there are some really affordable manual flashguns from Yongnuo that are pretty great for the price. There's a bit of a learning curve but nothing you couldn't figure out in an afternoon. Re: exposure - with modern DSLR's, yeah pretty much. Metering is generally very good on its own using the evaluative setting. Not always, though. Some situations, like backlit shots, will require compensation for the metered exposure.
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Dec 23, 2014 20:55
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make yourself a diy diffuser or better yet, a diy reflector and bounce it off the ceiling. you'll likely have to set the flash to manual mode and take a bunch of test shots to dial in the exposure, because the camera won't know you're screwing with it
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Dec 23, 2014 21:11
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BANME.sh posted:make yourself a diy diffuser or better yet, a diy reflector and bounce it off the ceiling. you'll likely have to set the flash to manual mode and take a bunch of test shots to dial in the exposure, because the camera won't know you're screwing with it Makeshift diffusers work just fine with TTL flash metering.
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Dec 23, 2014 21:25
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Beige posted:I'm too poor to buy a speedlight. Is the pop-up flash useful for anything? You're not too poor, pay $60 for a used yongnuo flash. You can also use a fixed popup flash fine, just don't get too close to the subject and remember to stop down for it.
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Dec 23, 2014 21:39
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