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I'll give that a shot, the print is the included castle gcode on the Prusa i3 MK2S.
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Sep 9, 2017 19:47
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There's a print that's popular in some of the Australian facebook communities called Moon City. So I printed it as big as my Prusa would allow. Needs a bit of clean up but I'm very happy with it!  Filament is eSun Gold PLA, and it has a really nice finish to it.
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Sep 10, 2017 00:34
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CloFan posted:Goondolences, friend. I've been printing with Octoprint for about 10 days now, luckily with no issues so far besides my incompetent slicing. Finally putting an old OG RPi to good use other than an emulation station (which I now have an RPi3 for I have also just setup Octoprint on an OG RPi 1 Model B. I rebuilt my Wanhao i3 with a toasted melzi board onto a RAMPs board running Repetier at the same time. I also added Z braces to the Wanhao while I had everything apart (nothing like doing everything at once to make things more fun) I've been able to complete a couple of small test prints OK, but I seem to be struggling with my Extruder slightly. Sometimes when i start a print from Octoprint it doesnt seem to run the extruder at all (everything else moves and the temp is fine but the extruder seems to stay locked out). The same gcode started from the local screen works fine. I've also attempted a couple of prints where it has just stopped printing mid way through and octoprint has lost communication with my printer. I'm not sure if this is because it it on a Pi1? I've also found that octoprint doesnt seem to respect the maximum printable area so you can accidentally move the Z axis up 100 and hit the top of the chassis when you lift it to try and clean things up. Which is nice. Tomarse fucked around with this message at 16:29 on Sep 10, 2017 |
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Sep 10, 2017 11:12
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Tomarse posted:I have also just setup Octoprint on an OG RPi 1 Model B. I rebuilt my Wanhao i3 with a toasted melzi board onto a RAMPs board running Repetier at the same time. I also added Z braces to the Wanhao while I had everything apart (nothing like doing everything at once to make things more fun) I'm running Octoprint on a Pi Model B on a Maker Select v2.1 (basically a wanhao). I haven't had any issues like you're describing although I have made sure to check my CPU usage with the C270 webcam. I also made sure mine's on wired internet just in case the wifi took too much CPU (which can be an issue but isn't always), and I made sure to use a beefy power supply for the Raspberry Pi. It sounds like the main difference in our setups is RAMPS vs. Melzi boards. I can't say for sure if your RAMPS board is having issues because there can be problems with Octoprint on the Raspberry Pi model B, but mine's been super solid with the specific Logitech C270 webcam, wired Ethernet, and good quality 2A power supply. As far as I can tell, Octoprint doesn't know your printer's dimensions when you're manually moving the print head, those seem to only be part of the slicing for creating gcode files that fall within the print area. I believe the interface buttons just send move commands to the printer blindly. Rexxed fucked around with this message at 18:10 on Sep 10, 2017 |
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Sep 10, 2017 17:00
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Tomarse posted:I've also attempted a couple of prints where it has just stopped printing mid way through and octoprint has lost communication with my printer. I'm not sure if this is because it it on a Pi1? Could it be a power supply issue? I have mine plugged into a UPS (along with the printer). The only accessories on it is an Edimax wifi adapter and Pi Camera 2. I haven't been keeping up with CPU load or anything since Octopi doesn't report it by default. To be more specific, this is a Pi B 2.0, so I guess it isn't truly OG
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Sep 10, 2017 18:05
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Pis in general are tricky with dodgy power because they don't brown out super gracefully. Instead you get Weird poo poo (tm)
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Sep 10, 2017 18:30
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If i remember rightly you want at least 2 amps for the pi, some people try running them off a usb plug and some of those only support 1.
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Sep 10, 2017 19:24
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Rexxed posted:I'm running Octoprint on a Pi Model B on a Maker Select v2.1 (basically a wanhao). I haven't had any issues like you're describing although I have made sure to check my CPU usage with the C270 webcam. I also made sure mine's on wired internet just in case the wifi took too much CPU (which can be an issue but isn't always), and I made sure to use a beefy power supply for the Raspberry Pi. It sounds like the main difference in our setups is RAMPS vs. Melzi boards. I can't say for sure if your RAMPS board is having issues because there can be problems with Octoprint on the Raspberry Pi model B, but mine's been super solid with the specific Logitech C270 webcam, wired Ethernet, and good quality 2A power supply. CloFan posted:Could it be a power supply issue? I have mine plugged into a UPS (along with the printer). The only accessories on it is an Edimax wifi adapter and Pi Camera 2. I haven't been keeping up with CPU load or anything since Octopi doesn't report it by default. To be more specific, this is a Pi B 2.0, so I guess it isn't truly OG Mister Sinewave posted:Pis in general are tricky with dodgy power because they don't brown out super gracefully. Instead you get Weird poo poo (tm) I think you might all be right!. Thanks!. I had totally forgotten what picky buggers PI's were about power. It was actually running off a 12V -> USB adaptor connected to the printer PSU as this was the only way I had of UPS-ing it (rated at 5V 3A output max). Its now on a 2A mains adaptor (and not UPS'd for the moment) The PI is on wired ethernet and has a microsoft live USB webcam plugged in. it is now 1 hour into a 5 hour print via octoprint. I will see how far it gets this time! I still had the problem where it didn't extrude the first time i pressed 'print' on this file from octoprint. I cancelled it. Then raised the Z up 10cm before walking down to the printer. I then did a manual PLA pre-heat and then extruded about 10mm direct via the printer panel (which all worked) before pressing print again via octoprint. This time it started extruding properly. Not sure what is going on here? its kind of like the RAMPS board is just disabling the extruder like it does when the temp is too low.
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Sep 10, 2017 19:31
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I would get the pi off of the same power supply being used by the printer period. Those hobby power supplies can be very iffy on power draw when heating is being done. Get a dc 2A adapter to connect to the pi and run it like as you do. If you can somehow put it on a different circuit than the printer power supply, even better because it does put a lot of load on your circuit.
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Sep 10, 2017 21:26
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Honestly I wish the pi didn't have a usb power port, if they couldn't get it to run off normal usb currents then they should've used a barrel jack at 9 or 12V. It's caused endless problems for countless people.
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Sep 10, 2017 23:05
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Splode posted:Honestly I wish the pi didn't have a usb power port, if they couldn't get it to run off normal usb currents then they should've used a barrel jack at 9 or 12V. Yeah, i have about 5 USB chargers, only one of them outputs 2A, half of them are 0.75A or less. Its a really common question on any board that uses raspis.
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Sep 11, 2017 00:41
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Doesn't the pi also have a barrel port? My pi 2 b+ does.
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Sep 11, 2017 03:42
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Doesn't the pi also have a barrel port? My pi 2 b+ does. The Pi B and B+ have jacks for 3.5mm audio out (headphone jack) and composite video out but no power in except micro USB. The Pi 2 B combined those outputs into a TRRS jack with stereo audio and composite video in one, which is the same on the Pi 3 B. I don't see anything they've released with a barrel jack, but I think you can get supplementary boards that provide one for power if you want it. https://www.raspberrypi.org/products/
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Sep 11, 2017 04:13
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I've been eyeing the Maker Select 3D Printer v2, my main goal is printing DnD minis but can't find any good images to see if it can output something decent, anyone have experience with it or have a better model I should be buying?
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Sep 11, 2017 07:11
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FDM isn't really good for minis.
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Sep 11, 2017 07:17
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socialsecurity posted:I've been eyeing the Maker Select 3D Printer v2, my main goal is printing DnD minis but can't find any good images to see if it can output something decent, anyone have experience with it or have a better model I should be buying? Look here for some examples: https://www.heroforge.com/DigitalDownload/
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Sep 11, 2017 07:28
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Huh thanks seems like Resin is the way to go but that is way beyond what I'm looking to spend, Monoprice looks like they announced a Resin printer in January but doesn't seem like they've said anything about it since.
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Sep 11, 2017 07:35
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:FDM isn't really good for minis. Not complete true, first it depends on scale, it's great for terrain and if you go down to a 0.2 or 0.3 nozzle hit can get great detail.  Models can be a pain to clean cause they generally need a lot of support but if you use Meshmixer or Flashprint you can get tree supports which are much more well suited to that style of model.
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Sep 11, 2017 08:49
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I printed off a small aria's dragon at .3 layer height and .4 nozzel. Very quick and dirty, but good enough for lovely d&d Definitely good enough to start from , and with a small amount tweaking could easily improve. 
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Sep 11, 2017 09:05
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Splode posted:Honestly I wish the pi didn't have a usb power port, if they couldn't get it to run off normal usb currents then they should've used a barrel jack at 9 or 12V. After some more experimentation I don't think my original 12V USB supply was actually doing much at all and the PI was just backfeeding power via the USB cable to the RAMPS. If I turn the printer on with the PI power connector unplugged the PI boots up - and it also works in reverse, so If I turn the PI on first then the printer controller will power up via the USB. I'm not convinced that this is great so I shall probably chop the power cables out of a USB cable to keep them separate. Despite this, it now seems to be working and my 6 hour print completed successfully.
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Sep 11, 2017 11:13
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socialsecurity posted:I've been eyeing the Maker Select 3D Printer v2, my main goal is printing DnD minis but can't find any good images to see if it can output something decent, anyone have experience with it or have a better model I should be buying? Hi, while I havent printed DnD models I have printed some models at small scales on my printer at 0.1mm layer height, if you have a model you like the look of I can try printing it for you to give you an idea of the detail level.
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Sep 11, 2017 11:52
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Megabound posted:Not complete true, first it depends on scale, it's great for terrain and if you go down to a 0.2 or 0.3 nozzle hit can get great detail. Goddam that's a nice print.
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Sep 11, 2017 17:29
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Anyone have an opinion on or experience with the BIBO2 Touch Laser? I haven't found much but what I have found has been good so far.
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Sep 11, 2017 23:32
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Managed to get this off a 0.4 mm nozzle. That's an Australian 5c piece, about 20mm diameter. You can absolutely get enough detail for DnD miniatures off a standard nozzle.
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Sep 12, 2017 06:18
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Being in the FB group for the printer I have just makes me realise that these kits are not for everyone. I am constantly amazed at how poorly some people manage to print with the exact same components as me. Many of them seem to think uneven bed = screw all the adjustment screws in as tight as they go!
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Sep 12, 2017 16:48
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That's pretty much Exhibit A of why I would never sell 3D printers, except in the aliexpress/banggood style of 1) Sell printer 2) Yer on your fuckin own
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Sep 12, 2017 16:58
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So I've run into a bit of an odd first-layer issue with my Monoprice Ultimate/Wanhao D6. Upgrades: 2nd cooling fan, MS all-metal hotend, MS alloy extruder lever, PEI sheet on the bed. I know the metal bedplate is slightly warped, like they all seem to do. I'm sure that's part of the issue, but doesn't explain this pattern in the first layer:   Printing ABS+ at 245°, Bed at 90°. That diagonal pattern isn't the warped bed, you can see that in the middle of the second picture where there's no extrusion happening in the middle, and the first picture in the bottom right, where there's too much gap. What the hell could be causing those diagonal areas of non-extrusion? It looks like something is bent, but I can't figure out why the direction doesn't line up with an axis. 0.2mm layer height, 0.2mm initial layer. And for functionalprint, I was printing a case for my travel soldering iron, a TS100.  
sharkytm fucked around with this message at 17:44 on Sep 12, 2017 |
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Sep 12, 2017 17:42
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sharkytm posted:What the hell could be causing those diagonal areas of non-extrusion? Being too close to the bed is causing backpressure in the nozzle and then the extruder gear skips on the filament. You should be able to hear clicking from the extruder. When it skips, the filament loses pressure and causes that pattern
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Sep 12, 2017 18:00
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mewse is right, the nozzle is too close. The areas where its worse show the high spots in your warped bed. My question though is: What is going on with the surface finish of the bed plate itself?
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Sep 12, 2017 18:44
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mewse posted:Being too close to the bed is causing backpressure in the nozzle and then the extruder gear skips on the filament. You should be able to hear clicking from the extruder. When it skips, the filament loses pressure and causes that pattern peepsalot posted:mewse is right, the nozzle is too close. The areas where its worse show the high spots in your warped bed. The adhesive under the PEI looks like that, if you're referring to the pattern under the PEI. If you mean the surface of the PEI, then its got several hundred prints on it, including several big ones that needed a heavy scraper application to remove them. The PEI has a bunch of scratches/scrapes in it.
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Sep 13, 2017 00:17
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sharkytm posted:Cool, I'll try moving it away. It's tough to get a good distance measurement with filament loaded, because it slowly pushes out when I have everything heated up to do clearance. I'll do a cold pull and do it again. The extruder doesn't click loudly if it does at all Can't you just retract the filament till the hot end is completely empty, while you do your bed level?
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Sep 13, 2017 02:31
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Using Simplify3D if my bed is leveled flat but too close to the nozzle I just set an initial z-offset in the g-code tab. It's lazy but a lot easier than trying to re-level the entire bed and makes it easy to do really minor tweaks of the nozzle height. I assume slic3r and cura have a similar option somewhere. If you want to go complete overkill in diagnostics print a one layer square the size of your print area. That'll show you both warped spots on the bed and if your bed isn't quite flat. Either way you're never going to get a perfect first layer with your print surface mounted on top of what I assume to be the adhesive from the stock print surface.
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Sep 13, 2017 16:10
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sharkytm posted:Cool, I'll try moving it away. It's tough to get a good distance measurement with filament loaded, because it slowly pushes out when I have everything heated up to do clearance. I'll do a cold pull and do it again. The extruder doesn't click loudly if it does at all. You could always just level with the bed being the only thing heated. The amount of expansion in the hotend when heated is negligible compared to the bed itself.
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Sep 13, 2017 16:57
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Using the prusa version of Slic3r (after, yet again, getting pissed off at simplyfy 3d) and one thing I never did was put a brim on a raft. It was freaking out when it was making the raft brim and I thought it was a bug. To my surprise and delight, the squiggled were making nooks for the raft lines to be able to turn and fill in the space exactly while not reducing the extrusion size.
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Sep 13, 2017 17:21
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biracial bear for uncut posted:You could always just level with the bed being the only thing heated. The amount of expansion in the hotend when heated is negligible compared to the bed itself. Fair point. I re-leveled and printed some small parts last night and it looks better. I'll need to do a couple big part parts to verify.
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Sep 13, 2017 18:51
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Kea posted:Being in the FB group for the printer I have just makes me realise that these kits are not for everyone. I am constantly amazed at how poorly some people manage to print with the exact same components as me. Many of them seem to think uneven bed = screw all the adjustment screws in as tight as they go! This is the Anet A8 group, right? I posted there a couple of times before I gave up on it. Facebook is a horrible interface for what should be a help forum. Now if I have a specific problem that I can't Google I just post here 
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Sep 14, 2017 01:33
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csammis posted:This is the Anet A8 group, right? I posted there a couple of times before I gave up on it. Facebook is a horrible interface for what should be a help forum. Now if I have a specific problem that I can't Google I just post here Nah anycubic kossel, I bookmark anything that looks like it might be useful but theres a real "too many cooks" thing going on. edit:Also this will probably jinx it but I have done basically nothing and the printer runs great and makes really nice prints, not sure if im just lucky or everyone who is having an issue is unlucky/an idiot. Kea fucked around with this message at 02:23 on Sep 14, 2017 |
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Sep 14, 2017 01:40
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99.9999999...% of people in any product group on Facebook are utter morons so that checks out.
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Sep 14, 2017 04:09
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biracial bear for uncut posted:99.9999999...% of people in any product group on Facebook are utter morons so that checks out.  I keep trying to convince people in the non-brand-specific groups that it's a pretty good idea to at least mention what printer you're using, and what material you're trying to print with. A dozen posts every day with nothing but a blurry picture and "Why does my first layer look like this?" Well son, it might be due to some easily changed software settings or bed adjustments, but it's probably because you're an idiot.
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Sep 14, 2017 14:46
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biracial bear for uncut posted:99.9999999...% of people in any product group on Facebook are utter morons so that checks out. True. There's an OctoPrint group that I avoid like the plague despite several invites for this very reason. Too painful to read.
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Sep 14, 2017 16:28
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