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I dunno. I think in gonna pull the linkages off of my 98 and try them. Maybe something got bent?
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Aug 3, 2013 19:40
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So there's all this talk about older Jeep but I only see the new Wranglers really, what's the consensus on the Commander? I know it's built on the WK platform and shares almost everything from the WK except for body panels and some interior bits but everyone that says avoid the Commander says the Grand Cherokee is fine. What gives? I'm not planning a vehicle change but I've always liked the Commander since I've viewed it as a good substitute for a Chevy Tahoe (which hold their resale all too well).
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Aug 3, 2013 23:05
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Do you like the styling y/n? It's the same exact vehicle mechanically as the WK. The interior is... something else. Parts of it are fine (nicer than the WK, in fact), parts of it depend on your taste, parts of it are just WTF in any case. Like the "decorative" hex-head screws that are actually functional and bolt the whole instrument panel together. (God have mercy on you if you ever want to, say, replace the stereo.) Depending on the year and options, you're also constantly lugging around a hundred pounds of basically-useless, space-eating third row. The third row will fit small children comfortably. Human adults can fit only for very short trips unless they were formerly North Korean dissidents and had severely stunted growth. If you need to haul more than approximately four grocery bags, the third row will need to be folded down. If you need the third row, you can haul approximately four grocery bags. We have one of each in my family. They're both fine. Assuming you don't need the third row, the XK keeps cargo dimensions more in line with previous Grand Cherokees. The WK styling made the floor-to-ceiling height almost uselessly short. The XK's rear end end being a little longer has a minor impact on departure angle, but crappier angles never stopped the FSJs. Molten Llama fucked around with this message at 01:40 on Aug 4, 2013 |
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Aug 4, 2013 01:37
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Accidentally sent my MJ's drums to the recycler when a friend came by for scrap. There's no way I'm driving an hour to get ones from the junkyard, but even the crappiest no-name 9" drums on RockAuto cost a bit more than the Brembo rotors I just ordered for my girlfriend's Fit. 
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Aug 5, 2013 00:13
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Finally had some success with my 97 XJ. I had posted about the water pump going bad a while back, had bought a new one, and got everything tore off. I then got sidelined for a week or so because things, but I went out there today and managed to get the new one on. It was about a bitch. I didn't remove the power steering bracket, so I had to snake the pump up in in a weird way which wouldn't be hard in itself, but I was trying to keep the gasket lined up with the bolt holes. I didn't have any sealer so I had to make sure the gasket went on perfect to avoid leaks. I'm pretty sure it did anyway. It was almost out of gas so I didn't have a chance to do any test driving, but I was able to run it for 6 or 7 minutes, and I couldn't detect any leak. So it's either good or a very small one if it's there. Also, any idea how much water a 4.0 holds in the radiator and motor? I'm sure a little bit was still pooled up in there, but I managed to fit about ~2 gallons in the radiator before it filled up. After running for 5 minutes it didn't drink very much at all. I'd have thought it would have had some air to burp up, maybe it just needs to run a bit harder or longer. I remember reading the 97 and new models aren't as bad as the previous ones about getting air pockets stuck in there, but it still worries me a little. Will I be fine keeping the reservoir full plus extra gallons of coolant with me and just checking it literally every few miles? On the plus side, the motor is quiet and nice sounding now rather than making a death rattling.
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Aug 5, 2013 02:33
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2 gallons is all I've ever fit in to my 4.0 post-burp when flushing it out. Just keep the reservoir up to the line and you should be good.
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Aug 5, 2013 03:33
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Had some success yesterday. I got my passenger rear door working as intended. Bent lock linkage was the issue. The bad part is my ATP header was too cracked to gently caress with, and I can't warranty it because I welded some cracks up last summer when had the head off. Go go dorman manifold.
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Aug 5, 2013 04:39
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unnnnngh I don't know if this alone is what caused the brakes on our 99 XJ to lock up last month but oh well, I'd been looking for an excuse to buy a MIG welder anyway  much better Used a Hobart Auto-Arc 130 and flux core wire to fill it in, and hopefully this is a permanent fix since the new material seems to be much harder than the original ductile iron used for the steering knuckle. I used a dremel and file to reshape the weld and the latter was barely able to scratch it I eats my spinach fucked around with this message at 11:04 on Aug 5, 2013 |
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Aug 5, 2013 10:58
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OneOverZero posted:That, and 0331s affected by the foundry methods have long since weeded themselves out of the XJ pool. Yes, quite a few failed, but it's a trivial percentage of the total. One failed on a friend of mine last fall. He didn't even overheat it, and it'd been in his family since it was only a couple years old. Update: I have working AC in the 98 red shitjeep now thanks to Black88GTA, installed a working CD deck last night from the junkyard (97-01 XJ radios are the same one as 97-?? dodge caravans, some Rams/Ram Vans, and late ZJs, mine came out of a ZJ, just check to make sure it has the same connectors) and somehow I averaged 19mpg on the last tank, which included 30 miles of hooning and blasting around in the woods, 100 miles of my front right brake dragging badly enough that I could smell it burning, and a 1/4" diameter hole in the downpipe between the header and the O2 sensor. I'm not really sure what's going on here, but I know I measured accurately... Oh, and at the latest NEAI meet, we took the old 4.0 out of the corner of my yard and put thermite in 3 cylinders. History of this engine: wrecked by previous owner, probably overheated due to coolant loss, guessing by the fact that... blew the head gasket between bores 3/4 within a few thousand miles of me buying it. I should note this is the only 4.0 I've ever treated well - up to that point, when it blew the head gasket it was game on. All the 4.0s I beat on give me zero trouble. driven for a year and a half and approx 10k miles with a 1/2" gap burned through the gasket between the bores, foot on the floor, no fucks given run out of oil, run out of coolant, driven to NYC a gallon short on coolant several times, run with tap water instead of coolant removed last summer, installed new engine, pulled head to inspect damage left engine headless sitting in corner of yard for a year, cylinder bores full of water poured thermite directly into cylinder and ignited poured thermite into flower pots over two other cylinders and ignited two pistons melted, oil pan glowed red hot from the molten iron landing on it, but did not melt through Tore the pan off and checked for damage... Stuck a breaker bar on the crank bolt and turned it over till all the thermite slag was scraped off the cylinders. It then rotated freely. BTW there was a gallon of rainwater in the oil pan for... a year. I expected it to be rusted solid. Damage: crosshatching still visible on most cylinders  ring ridge was MAYBE 3-5 thou tall.extremely minor pitting in the cylinder the thermite was poured directly into. Also, the walls cracked away from the fire deck at the top, so sadly it's not rebuildable. bearings all in excellent shape, all mains A-OK, several rod bearings slightly worn, a little copper showing. I've run worse, hell I am probably running worse right now. cam was rusted from being underwater for a loving year. Aside from the cracks in the walls of the cylinder that was directly exposed to thermite, I could have bored it ten over, resurfaced the fire deck, slapped a new cam/lifters in it and turned it into a stroker. I'm kinda sad that we cracked the bore with thermite now, if we'd just used a flowerpot to pour the thermite into the cylinder instead of burning it directly in the hole it would have been absolutely fine. bulletproof 4.0s for life 
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Aug 5, 2013 13:08
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Mirror bracket Kastein made to replace my broken wranglertec one.
Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 18:10 on Aug 5, 2013 |
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Aug 5, 2013 18:07
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Are there any reputable clutch dealers other than dial-a-clutch? Two clutches in a row from them with rattly, squealy throwout bearings is enough, I'm never using them again. Unless I'm doing something completely wrong or that little retaining clip is super-important (it broke off and was just sitting in the bellhousing), which I can't see as the pressure plate is the only thing capable of pushing the throwout bearing/release fork back anyway.
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Aug 5, 2013 19:45
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Retaining clip from what? I lost the retaining clip from the fork in the Corvette and it led to the fork not doing a goddamn thing (because it wasn't pivoting anymore) so I had to drive home in first gear.
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Aug 5, 2013 20:16
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Molten Llama posted:We have one of each in my family. Are they both the 5.7L? I'm curious about maintenance and reliability for the platform as well as that engine.
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Aug 5, 2013 22:33
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EightBit posted:Are there any reputable clutch dealers other than dial-a-clutch? Two clutches in a row from them with rattly, squealy throwout bearings is enough, I'm never using them again. Unless I'm doing something completely wrong or that little retaining clip is super-important (it broke off and was just sitting in the bellhousing), which I can't see as the pressure plate is the only thing capable of pushing the throwout bearing/release fork back anyway.
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Aug 5, 2013 22:59
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I'm going to do a coolant change in my 3.8L JK in the next few days. Can I just pull a lower rad hose while the motor is running to drain it ? I'll be doing it on an open grease pit so I don't need to worry about a mess. If not, what's the easiest way to drain out all the fluid ?
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Aug 5, 2013 23:32
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Besides rust, what else should I look at when purchasing a Grand Wagoneer. My girl friend has been mentioning that it looks like a fun old truck. And by that she has been sending me craigslist ads and other subtle hints. (great gal right?) I know the AMC 360 isnt a hoss by any means, and I am actually thinking if I get my hands on one, it would be better to throw a GM LSx motor in it. I think its Borg-Warner auto in the later years or am I thinking incorrectly. Other wise, it seems pretty sturdy enough. I mean its just a giant brick with two beam axles and a big motor. How hard can it be?
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Aug 5, 2013 23:45
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What year? If it's a grand, it should have a TF727. Also, the 360 can be a little beast if you deneuter it, emissions wise.
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Aug 6, 2013 00:16
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Been poking around then later years, I don't want to get much older than 84ish just to find a clean example. 727tf. gently caress I will just leave the stock AMC drive train if it can be tuned. I don't need a rocket ship. Just some grunt. I'm used to slow turds already
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Aug 6, 2013 01:08
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Been poking around then later years, I don't want to get much older than 84ish just to find a clean example. In '79 the 360 was still more than capable to move a FSJ, even with emissions junk: 360-2B 245 (182) @ 4400 365 (494) @ 2600 8.5:1 I may be terminally biased though. I've owned a few.
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Aug 6, 2013 01:56
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My '76 is my daily driver now. It's got a 2 barrel carb and it's not miserably slow. If you are concerned with power, there are still performance parts out there. These motors are mostly torque mills. Most of what you find will be 2 barrel 360 and 3 speed auto. 1980 was a changeover where they dropped the 401 V8, dropped the TH400 trans for a TF727, and started using New Process transfer cases. I think all the New Process cases are full time/part time 4WD. The Grand Wagoneer's first year was actually 1984, but most FSJ Wagoneers will be listed as Grands.
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Aug 6, 2013 03:41
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I drove my Jeep to the store today to get some gas. The water pump doesn't seem to be leaking at all, and it didn't try to run hot or anything. I've got an extra two gallons in the back in case the 2 I put in didn't get all the air out. Something strange happened though. On my way back home, when I slowed down to make a turn I had to brake harder than usual. The front left brake didn't exactly freeze, but it got hung up a bit. Enough that I could feel the drag, not quite enough it pulled very much to the left. It eventually came undone after a mile or so, and seems fine, but now when I brake hard it will pull to the right. Maybe from uneven wear when it was hung up? It actually did something similar once a few months ago, then seemed to be fine afterward. I have to make about a 40 mile trip tomorrow, but I'm not sure if I should. It seems to be alright now, aside from pulling to the right when I brake, although it's not so hard that it's anywhere close to uncontrollable. The pads are probably starting to need replacing, but not so much they have been making noise yet. It's a manual, so I can avoid needing to use the brakes a good bit whenever I need to lose a little speed, not that I'm intending on trying to drive it if they go out or anything. I'm just not sure how that little hanging up issue bodes for trying to take a trip tomorrow. edit: I'm not sure this means anything, but while the water pump was out, the Jeep did sit up for almost a month. Not sure if that could be why I had the brakes hang a little. However, the hanging didn't happen until after I had drove it about 3 miles to the store and back. Drunk Driver Dad fucked around with this message at 03:55 on Aug 6, 2013 |
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Aug 6, 2013 03:51
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OneOverZero posted:Make a run to NAPA if you have one nearby. Their house-brand Gold clutch for my 4.0L MJ was nothing more than an LUK inside NAPA packaging - same manufacturer/model as the factory piece. Think I paid $110ish. The boxes that were sent to me had Luk branding all over them, but the drat throwout bearing is garbage. The retaining clip doesn't seem to serve much purpose; the bell housing is molded in such a way that the release fork can't actually come off of the pivot when the transmission is bolted up to the engine. It can't rotate on the axis of the input shaft, or move perpendicular to that axis either.
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Aug 6, 2013 08:10
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That would've prevented my problem.
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Aug 6, 2013 17:14
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:My '76 is my daily driver now. It's got a 2 barrel carb and it's not miserably slow. If you are concerned with power, there are still performance parts out there. These motors are mostly torque mills. The Part/Full time transfer case works pretty much like a Discovery 1 transfer case right? Normally the center diff is unlocked running around in AWD with a viscous diff, and then selecting full time will lock the center diff right? I dont need a rocket ship on the on ramps, just something that would be able to deal with normal traffic. I have been casually glancing at parts and it all looks relatively cheap. I think if I do anything, just a cam, intake and a carb should do the job. From what I have read that the heads are pretty free flowing and its just bogged down with a small carb. Any thing else worth knowing? If its a 727TF it should be pretty much indestructible other wise.
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Aug 6, 2013 23:01
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Does anyone need a brand new OEM front upper control arm for a TJ? I bought it too long ago to return it  I'll also have two more used ones pretty soon once I put on the adjustables.
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Aug 7, 2013 00:14
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BrokenKnucklez posted:The Part/Full time transfer case works pretty much like a Discovery 1 transfer case right? Normally the center diff is unlocked running around in AWD with a viscous diff, and then selecting full time will lock the center diff right? If you get an older Grand with an Ammeter, bypass it or upgrade to a voltmeter ASAP. Too many nice GWs have burned down because of them.
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Aug 7, 2013 02:03
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I'm going to put an auto-locker in the front of my XJ, and I'm wondering if anyone has any opinions on Spartan vs LockRight. They're both pretty cheap, but the LR is a bit cheaper - any real difference between them?
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Aug 7, 2013 04:04
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I don't know Disco transfer cases. When I say full time/part time, I mean like an NP242. There are 3 modes: 2WD, AWD, and 4WD locked center diff. Some of the cases have an open diff in AWD and some have a viscous coupling. The problem with the viscous coupling is that they can dry out after years in 2WD and then explode when AWD is used again. Some of the transfer cases don't have a selectable 2WD, but came with a (universally panned) vacuum front axle disconnect. It's complicated to track all this stuff as it varies from year to year and there are outliers. None of the drivetrain stuff is particularly bad if you aren't doing serious wheeling though. Some of the things to look out for: -Gears. 3.07s became standard to help with fuel economy. -Front Axles. No one likes the front vacuum disconnect, but it can be fixed. -Rear Axles. Some came with AMC20 rears instead of D44s. They are OK axles, not the same lovely ones on CJs. Comparable to D44s, but parts are a little more expensive. -Vacuum. Emissions begets a rat's nest of lines, switches, and delay valves. -Oil pressure. The oil pump housing is a weak point on these motors and wears. Cold idle 20psi is good, 15psi would be my minimum. -Rust. Other than typical places, check the floors around the rear seats and the frame around the gas tank.
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Aug 7, 2013 04:53
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:I don't know Disco transfer cases. If he does the intake, it would be the perfect time to put in a valley oil line.
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Aug 7, 2013 11:39
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How would one go about fixing the awd so the diff doesn't explode? Discos just are in AWD all the time with a selectable center diff lock. Motronic knows how they work a little better..... my Range Rover uses a viscous center diff with low range selection and no center lock, but uses the computer to manage poo poo. Otherwise it sounds like finding a solid body is the hardest part of buying a FSJ.
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Aug 7, 2013 12:45
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Krakkles posted:I'm going to put an auto-locker in the front of my XJ, and I'm wondering if anyone has any opinions on Spartan vs LockRight. They're both pretty cheap, but the LR is a bit cheaper - any real difference between them? The Spartan is more noticeable (in terms of noise and unwanted engagement) while driving on the road and has a stronger cross pin than all of the other lunchboxes I think, but you're going to bust a u-joint long before that pin is going to fail. I've had a LockRight in for almost two years now and can't even tell it's there except while cornering sharply in 4L. It seems to be the most well-behaved of the bunch. Other than that they are all about the same (there are a couple of discontinued models plus the Aussie which is still kicking.) Depending on what's in your diff, you may need to remove the carrier and possibly the ring gear to install the locker. Totally worth it though; it's amazing how much of a difference a few pieces of metal can make for traction.
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Aug 7, 2013 12:58
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I have been looking at getting a roof rack for my 2 door jk, as I've finally pulled my kayaks out of storage. Some of the systems offered by thule and the like just fit into the rain gutters, which bothers me for some reason. I've been looking at getting one of the external cage systems, like the body armor kit. Any idea as to which one would be better, especially if I wanted to trade in my wrangler eventually for the diesel whenever it manages to actually come into production.
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Aug 7, 2013 17:18
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BlazinLow305 posted:I drove my Jeep to the store today to get some gas. The water pump doesn't seem to be leaking at all, and it didn't try to run hot or anything. I've got an extra two gallons in the back in case the 2 I put in didn't get all the air out. I'd say the left caliper was still stuck, possibly dragging, and the pull to the right you feel is the right brake being the only working one. Had something similar happen on my '70 Cutlass a few years ago.
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Aug 7, 2013 21:31
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Darchangel posted:I'd say the left caliper was still stuck, possibly dragging, and the pull to the right you feel is the right brake being the only working one. Had something similar happen on my '70 Cutlass a few years ago. I just had this problem with my '99 XJ, when I pulled the left front wheel apart I found a seized slider on the caliper and that the inner pad had worn a groove at the place where it contacts the steering knuckle. I don't know if the slider seized because it was the original part and it hadn't been properly lubed since long before I bought it, or if the groove locked the pad and the extreme heat generated before I limped it home overheated the caliper along with the rotor, but at any rate I fixed the groove with a welder just to be safe.
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Aug 7, 2013 23:02
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I've got a serious problem here with a 1986 CJ 7. It's a 4.2 straight six (258 cubic inch), 5 speed, with 33" tires. The gearing is believed to be stock. The carburetor is a Carter BBD. It will only start at a wide open throttle. On inclines it bogs out unless the driver backs off the gas pedal. It barely idles and it belches out black smoke- no oil, just smoke- like the choke is on. So far the timing chain has been changed, the engine has been re-timed, and the carburetor has been rebuilt.
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Aug 8, 2013 02:45
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BrokenKnucklez posted:How would one go about fixing the awd so the diff doesn't explode? You can pin the clutches in the viscous coupler together to make it a part time only case. You basically line up the clutches with a screwdriver, stick some dowels in, and remove the seals. Otherwise it's replacing the transfer case. BrokenKnucklez posted:Otherwise it sounds like finding a solid body is the hardest part of buying a FSJ.
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Aug 8, 2013 03:05
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Well that kinda stinks about the transfer case. Basically test it out when I take it for a drive... if it explodes I guess its a good negotiation tool. Any specific noise I should listen for? Sorry for the million questions. Figured I better get all the info possible.
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Aug 8, 2013 03:29
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When the VC goes catastrophically, it splits in half and you lose all power. You don't have drive, reverse, or park(!!!). I don't know of a noise. I don't much of anything about them specifically to be honest because I don't have first hand experience. If I were to wager a guess, I'd say that the VC fails when it overheats from overuse. I remember the stories being "I just took it offroad for the first time" or "it just snowed", probably kept spinning one wheel until it let go. Maybe if you drive on dry pavement in AWD for a while it'll be OK. DISCLAIMER: this is pure speculation.
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Aug 8, 2013 04:36
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I was bored before work today and have 3 spare throttle bodies laying around so I figured I'd take the restrictor plates out of the black dragon. I'm not really expecting much, but oh well. I needed something to do.  I really wish my place of employment wasn't so liability crazy and would actually let you use machinery off the clock for your own projects. Would have been so much easier to just chuck it in a lathe and use a boring bar. They wouldn't even let me ream my dillon powder die using my own reamer.
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Aug 8, 2013 18:20
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| # ? Jun 4, 2024 08:05 |
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Eggie posted:I've got a serious problem here with a 1986 CJ 7. It's a 4.2 straight six (258 cubic inch), 5 speed, with 33" tires. The gearing is believed to be stock. The carburetor is a Carter BBD. Sounds like a bad power valve or clogged idle tubes. How long ago was the carb rebuild? Were the idle tubes drilled out?
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Aug 9, 2013 01:51
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