|
Rescue Toaster posted:Are there water hammer arresters that work? I have a couple 'MiniRester AA size' units on my LG washer, and the pipes still get loving slammed around, like literally hear them shaking around in the wall. I'm guessing the plumbing is not attached/mounted well at all, so I probably need something extra gentle. Are they old? It's possible they've failed internally. The machine shouldn't care about the valve being slightly closed - it needs to deal with a wide range of water pressures anyway.
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2023 15:37
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 31, 2024 13:34 |
|
|
Interesting. They're like 8 years old, I hadn't considered they can just fail if water gets behind the seals. I ordered a couple new ones that I can either A) replace these or B) if these still work evidently one pair isn't enough and I can stack them, as silly as that looks.
|
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2023 15:49
|
|
|
Rescue Toaster posted:Are there water hammer arresters that work? I have a couple 'MiniRester AA size' units on my LG washer, and the pipes still get loving slammed around, like literally hear them shaking around in the wall. I'm guessing the plumbing is not attached/mounted well at all, so I probably need something extra gentle. I have some of these and I find that in my scenario they have to be replaced once a year. I also found that putting a second one on the other side of the house helps.
|
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2023 18:40
|
|
|
I've never seen anything like a Water Hammer Arrester around here, I wonder what makes them necessary in the US but not in Denmark.
|
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2023 20:49
|
|
|
PurpleXVI posted:I've never seen anything like a Water Hammer Arrester around here, I wonder what makes them necessary in the US but not in Denmark. They're not so much "necessary in the US" as they are "necessary in homes with improperly fastened copper plumbing".
|
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2023 20:53
|
|
|
Motronic posted:They're not so much "necessary in the US" as they are "necessary in homes with improperly fastened copper plumbing". ...oh it's literally just to make your plumbing not swing around every which way? I thought maybe y'all had some like, extreme pressure swings or whatever that could maybe rattle your pipes apart or something.
|
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2023 20:55
|
|
|
PurpleXVI posted:...oh it's literally just to make your plumbing not swing around every which way? I thought maybe y'all had some like, extreme pressure swings or whatever that could maybe rattle your pipes apart or something. Don't worry we definitely also have that somewhere. The country is large enough I can say that with confidence.
|
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2023 20:57
|
|
|
PurpleXVI posted:extreme pressure swings or whatever that could maybe rattle your pipes apart or something. That's exactly what water hammer is. Modern electronic solenoids act so fast that the water flow is shut off instantly and the momentum of the water in the pipes causes it to compress and build up pressure. If your pipes aren't secured properly it will cause them to hammer against framing and in some cases can cause pipe or fittings to fail.
|
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2023 21:07
|
|
|
Boo, toilet tank is cracked... at least american standard makes it really easy to get warranty replacements. I was starting to have weird flush issues anyway, so ... problem solved I guess
|
|
#
?
Jul 21, 2023 21:21
|
|
|
 What do ya think the odds are that valve works? Heh
|
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2023 13:36
|
|
|
Honestly? Pretty good odds it will. Those are typically high quality quarter turn made to be buried valves.
|
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2023 13:44
|
|
|
lmao, they just buried unprotected soft copper pipe? Wild.
|
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2023 14:10
|
|
|
PurpleXVI posted:lmao, they just buried unprotected soft copper pipe? Wild. That's how it's been done for decades and decades. Then they started with direct burying poly pipe with a metal "tracer" on it, which rotted off decades ago so you can't find any of it with a metal detector now. Not sure why one would do anything different. These direct burial installs by and large last 50+ years if left undisturbed.
|
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2023 14:39
|
|
|
House was built in like 53, and just sprung a leak now, installed a shutoff between the house and street to try to isolate it. (ended up just cutting out the spigot, will install a proper frost free one later) Turns out it's not between the house and the street sadly... the hunt continues.
|
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2023 20:56
|
|
|
Rakeris posted:House was built in like 53, and just sprung a leak now, installed a shutoff between the house and street to try to isolate it. (ended up just cutting out the spigot, will install a proper frost free one later) Turns out it's not between the house and the street sadly... the hunt continues. Wait, so what exact symptoms are you chasing? Do you live somewhere that the meter is at the curb rather than on the house?
|
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2023 21:14
|
|
|
I have city water and I have very hard water. I want to filter and soften but I can't tolerate any drop in water pressure. I have about 2600sqft, 4 people, 2.5 bathrooms. What units/brands should I look into? Do I want to soften the water going to the outside faucets that I use mostly for watering grass and washing cars? I would think filtered water for washing cars would be fine, would it could possibly leave mineral deposits. I also heard softened water with salt can kill grass or plants.
|
|
#
?
Jul 27, 2023 06:54
|
|
|
Boner Wad posted:I have city water and I have very hard water. I want to filter and soften but I can't tolerate any drop in water pressure. I have about 2600sqft, 4 people, 2.5 bathrooms. What units/brands should I look into? I don't know about the US, but in Europe the big brand for at-home water softening is BWT(they're also available and marketing in the US, but I don't know if there are any more well-established brands over there), and we've been happy with their quality after installing one of their units. Generally the "with salt" kind is the only sort of water softening you should look into, all of the poo poo that rambles on about using magnets or whatever is utterly fake and won't do a loving thing. Its also worth noting whether the water softener has a timer for regeneration, or whether its purely on-demand, if its on-demand make sure to get a "duplex" version with two cells or it'll inevitably end up regenerating its lone cell while you're using it, and while its regenerating, you're going to get "hard" water pouring through. My experience is that there's zero loss in water pressure, and unless there's something grievously wrong you don't end up with any salt in the actual water coming out of faucets. Its entirely as reagent for "regenerating" the cells inside the water softener so they can catch more limescale before it ends up being an annoyance. Generally, though, I would say only water soften the water for indoors use, most outdoors purposes don't care about the water being soft or hard, and you may as well save the bother. Of course, generally the most convenient place to locate the water softener is as soon as possible after the meter, and if you have some outdoors water connections well after the meter, it may be a huge bother to exclude them.
|
|
#
?
Jul 27, 2023 08:35
|
|
|
Yeah its my understanding that softening your water isn't a filter but it's a big container full of salt. I've always seen the salt thing never a filter type softener. You shouldn't see any difference in water pressure.
|
|
#
?
Jul 27, 2023 11:16
|
|
|
Motronic posted:Wait, so what exact symptoms are you chasing? Do you live somewhere that the meter is at the curb rather than on the house? Yeah, meter is at the curb, losing about 200gal a day to a leak I can't find. Checked all the usual suspects, toilets, sinks, tubs, fridge, installed the shutoff to rule out the yard. My current guess is it's under the slab somewhere... Hoping to narrow it down to see if it's worth trying to repair vs just abandoning it and running a new cold line in.
|
|
#
?
Jul 27, 2023 11:53
|
|
|
My suggestion would be to separate your hard water and soft water, so you're not replacing salt or filters more often than necessary. Hard water is fine for flushing the toilet or watering plants. May not be physically possible to separate those depending on your plumbing setup and accessibility.
|
|
#
?
Jul 27, 2023 18:23
|
|
|
Nitrox posted:My suggestion would be to separate your hard water and soft water, so you're not replacing salt or filters more often than necessary. Hard water is fine for flushing the toilet or watering plants. May not be physically possible to separate those depending on your plumbing setup and accessibility. Limescale is absolutely what eventually kills most toilet mechanisms, may as well soften that water as well to keep the mechanisms functioning longer.
|
|
#
?
Jul 27, 2023 18:32
|
|
|
MrChrome posted:I have some of these and I find that in my scenario they have to be replaced once a year. I also found that putting a second one on the other side of the house helps. devicenull posted:Are they old? It's possible they've failed internally. Yes my old hammer arrestors were completely failed. You can barely hear it when the valve closes now. On the flip side, these things aren't exactly cheap these days, so I'm curious to see how long they end up lasting.
|
|
#
?
Jul 27, 2023 21:30
|
|
|
Can someone help me identify this valve stem? It's the diverter and I'm going to buy all 3 since my shower's all hosed up, but I cannot for the life of me find the right one. Length: 5 1/2 Splines: 12  e: oook, imgur doesn't want to display i guess anymore. https://imgur.com/a/WBoGWuq
|
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2023 00:08
|
|
|
Bring it to the plumbing Supply and match against whatever they have. Don't buy stuff like that online unless you are absolutely not in the rush to finish the project
|
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2023 01:16
|
|
|
I'd personally start with the manufacturer's website to find the right model, sometimes small and easily missible things can gently caress you up with these, because there aren't really any standards as such for them.
|
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2023 01:19
|
|
|
PurpleXVI posted:I'd personally start with the manufacturer's website to find the right model, sometimes small and easily missible things can gently caress you up with these, because there aren't really any standards as such for them. That's the main problem, I can't find a manufacturer's stamp anywhere on it. I'm probably going to end up going to a plumbing store either way, but if I can even get the right washers for it, I'd just replace those rather than the whole drat valve. I didn't realize it was going to be THIS frustrating to try and fix it.
|
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2023 01:26
|
|
|
|
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2023 02:03
|
|
|
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DANCO-12H-18D-Diverter-Stem-for-Price-Pfister-Faucets-17328B/100191294 I googled "3226 diverter valve" This looks to be the oem one if you want that: https://www.pfisterfaucets.com/parts-support/troubleshooting/product/cartridge-9100220-diverter-stem-for-multi-handle-tub-shower-valves
|
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2023 02:56
|
|
|
Hardly knew er!
|
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2023 03:39
|
|
|
devicenull posted:https://www.homedepot.com/p/DANCO-12H-18D-Diverter-Stem-for-Price-Pfister-Faucets-17328B/100191294 Thanks for the help. The OEM is too short, but the one from Home Depot is correct, and finally seeing the ID, I could use the guide here and matched it up on page B127, which my local Lowes has in stock for both the valves and the diverter. This poo poo was way too complicated.
|
|
#
?
Aug 10, 2023 06:18
|
|
|
I have an 1950s house with some ancient toilets I decided to take off and replace, but after I finally got the first toilet removed ran into this mess. The flange bolts are 6.5 inches apart and it looks like they used some kind of putty both under the toilet and to extend the flange "seal" down to the pipe (which is inset into the floor an inch or two). Everything crumbled and broke apart with the lightest touch--both the white "sealant" in the middle and whatever they were using around the flange presumably to level the toilet. I'm probably going to call a plumber out now that this isn't a simple swap out, but has anyone seen anything like this mess before? 
|
|
#
?
Aug 12, 2023 22:53
|
|
|
Oh yeah, that old school J bolts in the wet tile bed. That's the kind of thing that only lasts for like 80 years or so 
|
|
#
?
Aug 12, 2023 22:57
|
|
|
Wow. That should be in a plumbing museum, along with a marble slab that they used to use to mount your toilet on. Wotta lotta lead
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2023 00:46
|
|
|
Motronic posted:Oh yeah, that old school J bolts in the wet tile bed. That's the kind of thing that only lasts for like 80 years or so Probably would have continued trucking on if I didn't rip out the toilet it was attached to, which I'm fairly sure was 50+ years old and was awful (weak flush but absolute water hog). Had a massive tank that took forever to fill until I originally replaced the innards. We found a 2-liter soda bottle that the previous owner had placed in the tank to reduce the volume of the tank so it would fill faster. Only found that one out because they never took the ginger ale label off and it eventually deteriorated, fell off, and got stuck in the flapper. Real wtf moment "Why is there a soda bottle in my toilet?" PainterofCrap posted:Wotta lotta lead Is that what that reddish corrosion is? It flaked off like nothing so I assumed it was some sort of dried up organic (wax + god only knows) material.
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2023 04:35
|
|
|
For flared gas lines, is it correct to replace the whole thing (including fittings) if I've had to disconnect one of the side of the flare line? Living through a kitchen update. Today I bought/replaced a whole gas hookup kit so I could have the oven disconnected for a few hours. The kit was $35 at menards and had a new MIP to Flare (with excess flow valve), flexible SS line, and flare to MIP. I am definitely going to disconnect/reconnect again, and maybe a second time depending on flooring/cabinet/countertop schedule. At $35 each it seems a waste to chuck these in the trash, but I also don't want to get hurt to save a buck.
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2023 04:54
|
|
|
horse_ebookmarklet posted:For flared gas lines, is it correct to replace the whole thing (including fittings) if I've had to disconnect one of the side of the flare line? The fittings should last basically forever as long as they're mating faces are in good condition, but the flexible hoses should be replaced every once in a while. I replaced the fitting in my kitchen because a PO had slathered pipe dope all over the drat thing to get away with using a worn out flex line. Don't do that. I think a handful of connects/disconnects are probably within the tolerance for them, but I would also recommend you get a bottle of leak detecting fluid (or just use soapy water) to test your connections after hooking everything back up every time. Here's the fluid I use. I bought it in 2019 and I've used it a lot and found several leaks with it. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E0Q03KM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 SpartanIvy fucked around with this message at 05:05 on Aug 13, 2023 |
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2023 05:02
|
|
|
Nitrox posted:My suggestion would be to separate your hard water and soft water, so you're not replacing salt or filters more often than necessary. Hard water is fine for flushing the toilet or watering plants. May not be physically possible to separate those depending on your plumbing setup and accessibility. You should all have a glance at Auden's In Praise of Limestone, a poem I love, about the importance of geology to memory. quote:Dear, I know nothing of
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2023 05:17
|
|
|
I have an extremely basic question that I can’t google my way to answering: My bathroom sink drains slowly up to a certain point as water comes from the faucet faster than it can go down the drain, then empties quickly all the way if I let the water run long enough and allow a large enough volume of water to fill up the basin. After that, it starts draining slowly again and water once more fills up in the basin. This is annoying to deal with. Is it something drain cleaner would fix, or just an engineering feature of the sink? I ask because I don’t want to damage the pipes and because the p-trap (maybe there’s another name for a trap that is a full loop) under the sink actually goes in a full loop-the-loop, like this one:  I did an image search to find that one, which is in a kitchen rather than a bathroom, but the shape is identical. I could imagine that the full loop means that some water would have to build up to force its way through a full loop, and that if the sink were draining slowly because of buildup, I’d never get to a moment where the sink empties completely and drains quickly for a moment. Should I just see if like liquid plumr or drano will make a difference, or is it all down to the shape of the trap? EDIT: Whoops—to add the missing information requested below: There are no pipes other than the loop-the-loop one and the hot and cold lines in. This is something that has slowly gotten more noticeable over time, but I’ve only been in this place for a year. It’s an apartment and the building was built in the 1970s. Nobody has looked in the trap. I AM GRANDO fucked around with this message at 14:22 on Aug 14, 2023 |
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2023 04:37
|
|
|
Your story is missing several bits of information. Is that something that started happening recently? Did anyone bother to undo the trap and see if it's clogged? Is this in the house, condo, or apartment building? How old is the building?
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2023 04:55
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 31, 2024 13:34 |
|
|
I AM GRANDO posted:I have an extremely basic question that I can’t google my way to answering: Does yours also have an air admittance valve? I have a feeling it's related. A go ogling here has suggested it may be clogged further down partially and that is causing back pressure and the valve won't open. My rudimentary application of fluid dynamics with your story is saying perhaps enough pressure of a full sink is able to do something and force it by, then low pressure when it's empty and it fails again. So in summary, what the other poster said. Has this always been like this or new? Do any other fixtures have trouble draining? Can you test and see? Sometimes we get clogged pipes on sinks that don't get used much so we don't experience the symptoms. It's not often I drain a full sinks worth in my half bath for instance. Apply the scientific method to all of your fixtures and see what develops. Flush the toilet twice back to back. Pour a give gallon bucket down each sink. Get this sink draining and when it goes faster pour a bucket in and see if it maintains. The solution to most draining issues is to hit it with a snake.
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2023 05:30
|
|
