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Super Aggro Crag posted:Very nice Fart Pipe. Can't wait to go for a ride in that bitch. The lack of comma makes the first sentence more than awkward. The second sentence confirms it. 
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Apr 13, 2014 02:53
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Fart Pipe posted:For anyone that hasnt seen my thread, I drove my truck under its own power for the first time in 25 years https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xos2MnVxe-c
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Apr 13, 2014 05:44
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Yesterday I did my first Miata oil change and wash. The filter was on hand-tight, but the drain plug had to be impacted off...Who the gently caress does that? Even with that snafu and having to turn the compressor on/fill it up/get the air tools out it only took like 25 minutes. I love the filter location on this car. I also put a band-aid decal over the one spot on the windshield frame where there was a chunk of flaked paint. I planned on painting the frame, but the decal kind of makes it look like a "Cars" car, which fits with the Miata's overall "cute car" thing so I may leave it.  Bonus semi-cleaned engine bay pic. I am going to pull off the induction pipe to get that gross brown-ness off it today. 
Imperador do Brasil fucked around with this message at 13:47 on Apr 13, 2014 |
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Apr 13, 2014 13:29
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The car looks like it's been taken care of. Nice find!
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Apr 13, 2014 15:54
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Just let myself out to take care of the Miata tuneup. It ran a little rough and didn't pull smoothly through the rev range, and knowing Miatas and their lovely ignition systems I decided that it was the ignition system's fault. The wires were some kind of weird off-brand I've never heard of, and the #3 wire showed some cracks on the insulation that made me suspicious of its mad skillz. Now, I grew up in a family where you read the plugs, and I haven't quite taken a deep look at these ones yet, but the cliffs notes are strongly pointing towards "dickered." Plugs 2 and 4 had weird black poo poo on the insulator, looked almost like a crack. Plug three really didn't want to come out and the plug wire for it fell apart when I tried to pull it. Mr. Chinese Pliers had a different opinion. Eyeballing the gap says they're pretty much constant. Some of the plugs had insulators showing what I assume are heat damage. No obvious detonation damage. They were all the same old-rear end Champions, so at least they didn't replace half the plugs and call it a day.  Air filter was also done. Kudos to Mazda for the least frustrating air filter replacement I've ever done. I'm not sure if the old filter started out as black or not, but the side that faces the road/air inlet was pretty gross so replacing it with a fresh Denso filter (which was about twice as tall as the outgoing filter) probably helped the car.  Test drive and butt dyno indicate increased performance and a car that's more willing to rev, though I suspect I may have to reset the ECU so it relearns things. I might have to reorganize how I was using the spark plug wire holders as the #2 wire crosses over the #3 plug and that's probably not great from some obscure EM standpoint. I'll mess with it sometime when I'm bored in a parking lot. The new NGK plug wires were nice except it felt like the boots weren't quite as snug on the plug as I would have liked. Gravity will help me out here anyway, it's not like the plug boot should ever see compression pressures. I guess that's what you get with these new fancy "sideways boxer" engines where the sparkplugs point up and down instead of side to side? Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 22:10 on Apr 13, 2014 |
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Apr 13, 2014 22:05
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Put some tractor paint on the hood and found which vacuum line was disconnected and killing my power (again). More new vacuum line bought so soon this poo poo should be over.
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Apr 14, 2014 01:15
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I took it out on back roads (paved this time) and whipped the poo poo out of it. Saw a BMW with rally/driving lights at a stop sign halfway, he pulled out behind me and tried to keep up* but really needs to learn to drive. Because a shagged out XJ with nearly bald snow tires shouldn't be able to walk any BMW that way  It handles a lot better without 150lbs of tools on the passenger floorboard and 150lbs of parts in the trunk. Who would have guessed? * I'm guessing here based on the fact that I was going somewhere between 'warp 9' and 'plaid' and he sorta kept up for the first few turns...
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Apr 14, 2014 02:11
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I reorganized it's house again. Threw out more junk, put away the christmas poo poo, re-rigged my shelves so the bins could more easily stack. Then I stabled some of that carpet pad I had leftover to make a door-protector for when other people get in and out of the car. 
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Apr 14, 2014 02:59
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Did a little RallyX. I can say it was my ride because I bought it that morning, then sold it back to the guy at the end of the day. This was so I had a piece of paper (bill of sale) that would make it legal to drive on public roads. The plates were expired. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kJkXgT2fs4U The car is a 1976 Chevy Nova sedan.   
trouser chili fucked around with this message at 21:00 on Apr 14, 2014 |
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Apr 14, 2014 20:54
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Why did you sell it back?
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Apr 14, 2014 20:56
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I can keep it if I like, it was offered to me for free. The guy who owns it also owns the blue stage rally xr4ti that was wrecked at the 100AW. Another friend of mine is a welder and looking for a cheap old car to drive on lovely days instead of his really pristine 1980 Scout II turbodiesel. So when the car was offered to me, I offered it to my friend the welder in exchange for welding services to help put the wrecked xr4ti back together. We have another xr4ti shell from Arkansas to steal sheet-metal from, and another stage-rally prepped xr4ti to run in the meantime. Here's the new stage-rally prepped xr4ti next to the rallyX Nova.  Here's the wrecked stage-rally prepped xr4ti  Here's the donor xr4ti being towed by the rally ambulance.  So if I kept the RallyX Nova, well I wouldn't have much to do with it except the odd RallyX event, and it's pretty much terrible in every other respect. So it's more useful as a trade than anything else. We were talking at one point of making a Lemons/Chump racer with it. But with the main stage-rally car down hard, it makes more sense to concentrate our efforts to getting it back on the up.
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Apr 14, 2014 21:11
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Rhyno posted:I reorganized it's house again. Threw out more junk, put away the christmas poo poo, re-rigged my shelves so the bins could more easily stack. Then I stabled some of that carpet pad I had leftover to make a door-protector for when other people get in and out of the car. Clean garage buddy!   Not organized yet, but i cleaned out the garage. I'll never let it get that bad again(i'm serious this time[no, really])  It seems like such a huge space, until the lincoln comes back in and eats it all up  I also did an oil change and air filter on the lincoln. Hopefully by the weekend it will be warm enough outside again to do the plugs.
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Apr 15, 2014 01:03
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Powershift posted:Clean garage buddy! I was so excited to spend the day out there re spraying my wheels. Woke up to 35 degrees and expected snow. Ugh.
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Apr 15, 2014 04:56
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Finished assembly on this - now it's on to hanging the accessories on the front, then I can drop the car back on there!
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Apr 15, 2014 12:45
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Yesterday I had to replace the battery in my e46 330ci. The car had sat for 5-6 days, went to turn it on yesterday morning and it barely wheezed to life and then lit up the dash like a christmas tree - with the giveaway being the red battery light. Of course, the owner's manual and online forums talk about charging system failures and worst case scenarios so it's a bit like diagnosing yourself on WebMD making you think you have AIDS from a minor cough. Anyway since it was running I drove it the few miles to work since I needed to, but then it was dead as a door knob in the parking lot once I shut it off. As far as I can tell it was the original factory battery from ~ 10 years ago so it was totally dead and would not charge. Amazing that it lasted that long. I picked up a new battery from NAPA over my lunch break, brought it back and dropped it in and everything was back to normal. Plus the new battery seems to have explained/eliminated some minor issues I was having. Like what I think was power/voltage droop at low rpms and during shifting that caused weird throttle response (throttle by wire) and the TC/DSC system occasionally throwing warning lights that would subsequently go out. I know people have said E46s are sensitive to voltage and charging system irregularities and now I believe it. In retrospect that battery has been dying for a while. Guinness fucked around with this message at 18:05 on Apr 15, 2014 |
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Apr 15, 2014 18:03
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I had to finally replace the battery in my Cherokee as well. Actually, this was the Optima red top from my Cutlass, which got moved to my 90 RX-7, and then to my Cherokee. I moved it to the Cherokee when it started having trouble spinning the rotary fast enough to start it easily. The Jeep took less to get it started, so I swapped them. I knew it would have to replaced eventually. What got me, though, was that it gave up suddenly. Started fine in the morning, started fine after work, started fine at the hardware store, then when I stopped to get gas, barely a click. 8V on the meter. A nice lady let me jump the thing off of her car, and away I went to O'Reilly's. $120 later, and everything's fine. The Optima was from 2005, so I guess I got my money's worth. e: typos
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Apr 15, 2014 19:51
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I think i just might have my starting problems sorted in the 56 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p0agA3Sj1N8
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Apr 17, 2014 01:07
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Washed the Miata to make it a sparkly again Then went and bought another set of wheels for it. No reason apart from the wheels being cheap and having four decent tires. $75 for the set. I might plasti-dip them or put some stickier rubber on them, who knows? 
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Apr 17, 2014 20:49
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I bought some things for the Civic that should be difficult to install. And took a photo of the steering wheel 
Chriskory fucked around with this message at 22:29 on Apr 17, 2014 |
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Apr 17, 2014 22:26
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Four photos to show you my course of action today:   
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Apr 17, 2014 22:40
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Speaking of steering wheels, I just ordered a new Alcantara wheel from Coby Wheel for my BMW. My OEM Alcantara wheel is totally shot. No stripe for me. 
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Apr 17, 2014 22:44
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On the civic: Took off the dash and tried to unfuck the connections to the AC controls from where a previous owner clipped just about every wire looking for a 12v line they could splice an aftermarket stereo into. No luck, AC self diagnostic still throws an error that the evap temperature sensor circuit has an open. So unless I can track down the problem in the next few searches what's left is to pay someone to hunt through all the drat wires and figure out which one is hosed, OR jury rig it further by putting an interrupt switch in the line that runs power to the AC clutch relay. I would very much like to have AC this summer so guess what's more likely to happen. On the truck: Put in new headlights, and went ahead and spraypainted the grill while it was off. Looks better even though I missed a couple spots. Geirskogul posted:Four photos to show you my course of action today:
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Apr 18, 2014 01:37
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Parts Kit posted:
Blowout on the freeway.
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Apr 18, 2014 02:16
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I finally installed this lip I had painted like 7 months ago.   
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Apr 18, 2014 03:05
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What the hell is that giant vinyl windshield sticker?
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Apr 18, 2014 03:52
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Carteret posted:I finally installed this lip I had painted like 7 months ago. Sprechen sie Sexy.
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Apr 18, 2014 03:55
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Bovril Delight posted:What the hell is that giant vinyl windshield sticker? Looks like it says "vision". Maybe above it in fine print it says "this sticker restricts my"
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Apr 18, 2014 03:59
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Bovril Delight posted:What the hell is that giant vinyl windshield sticker? Invision, a buddy's shop that gives me a discount if I wear his vinyl at large meetups. There was a big rear end meetup of Gen Coupes at the Tail of the Dragon a few weeks ago, just haven't had a chance to take it off. I put it on all half-assed anyway, and my wiper ripped off part of the letters. 
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Apr 18, 2014 04:02
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Tore the winter tires off the rims since they were pretty spanked, then threw the new tires on and loaded em up with balancing beads. Except I forgot to put any in the front left before seating the beads and it wouldn't break easily, so gently caress it, I'll deal with that one later  Went from 205/70R15 to 235/75R15 and snows to muds, may handle somewhat differently. (Stock is 225/75R15, so a 235 is cake to fit. Just bolt them on.)
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Apr 18, 2014 04:11
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Do those beads work well? I've heard good things, but there's always someone who says otherwise.
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Apr 18, 2014 04:50
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 much better
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Apr 18, 2014 05:09
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Geirskogul posted:Do those beads work well? I've heard good things, but there's always someone who says otherwise. Don't know yet. I'll report back when I get home without dying. Before:  After:  These are a little more jeep-worthy and less bottle cap sized.
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Apr 18, 2014 05:16
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Geirskogul posted:Do those beads work well? I've heard good things, but there's always someone who says otherwise. Never run them myself, but complaints about them were few and far between. I've seen them cause irregular wear issues in sustained high-speed situations (as in, highway speed all day, every day), but if you frequently have mud inside your wheels they compensate for that imbalance and are thus better than a 'real' balance in that situation. You need a special core in your valves to keep them from sticking the core open (and they come with the beads in a separate baggie). Also they loving suck when you have to patch a tire, and on breakdown/mounting they stick to tire lube and if you're not careful to clean every single tiny little bead out of the tire and off the rim they then get stuck between the bead and flange and cause bead leaks and/or separations. Oh and they end up on the shop floor and create a massive slipping hazard (I ran a service truck so it didn't matter much). I've washed millions of the things out of my hair, and probably ingested/inhaled more of them than I'd like to think about. So yeah, good for the end user in the right situation, invariably bad for tire techs.
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Apr 18, 2014 05:41
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Tommychu posted:ex-tireguy opinion: Seconding this. My shop used them for the big-gently caress off sizes on trucks and the like, but never on passenger cars. Zero complaints, except for those of us actually using the things. PS: If you don't want your tire guy wishing you dead and your car to explode in a giant fireball, don't use slime or fix-a-flat and expect them to patch the tire.
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Apr 18, 2014 05:49
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Hit a milestone of sorts on my daily driver. (2005 Ford Taurus) 
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Apr 18, 2014 05:59
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Carteret posted:
The best part being that when it comes to really porous tires like Goodyears and Firestones, once you use that stuff the tire is junk because the ammonia soaks into the inner liner and trying to make a patch stick for more than 5 seconds is futile. Shur-seal on the other hand is a loving godsend. It's used exclusively in tubeless off-road industrial tires and while it's a similar concept it actually works an it's not bad to work with. Less ammonia, still kind of smelly but it scrapes off the spot you're patching easily and it's much more dense and chunky so once you scrape it into the bottom of the tire it stays there and the buffer doesn't fling it directly at your face. Large bias tires frequently suffer from air migration (many tiny separations within the casing) and I almost never had to tube if I used a good dose of shur-seal. Turbo Fondant fucked around with this message at 06:19 on Apr 18, 2014 |
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Apr 18, 2014 06:09
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Carteret posted:don't use slime or fix-a-flat and expect them to patch the tire. hahahahahahahahahahaha, gently caress THAT poo poo Immediate impression: They work. My front left is definitely shaking all over the place, gonna break it down again tomorrow and deal with that. The rest seem good. I only got it up to around 75 though. We'll see how it does above that shortly...
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Apr 18, 2014 06:23
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I had my S2000 serviced earlier this week and was advised to change the front pads and rotors because the former were "nearly on metal" and the latter were "below spec". Figuring I'd save money fitting them on my own, I ordered some rotors to go with the Hawke pads I got a while ago on Amazon.  Today I put those on. Firstly, the old pads still had a good bit of life in them, but the rotors were out of spec so that doesn't really matter. Secondly, gently caress Honda for the two impossible-to-remove set screws that hold the rotors in place on the hubs. I had to drill these out and broke four drill bits, because either they're made of cheese or the screws are made of unobtainium. The consensus is that they're not needed because the five lugs hold the assembly in place anyway. The screws just make it convenient to not have the rotor wobbling around when you swap pads.  This didn't work, predictably.  Now for 300km of town driving before I can bed them in at high speed.
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Apr 18, 2014 19:37
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Those screws are used for the assembly line. Get an impact driver from harbor freight, the kind you hit with a hammer. I've never had a problem removing the screws with an impact driver. Also what pads require 300km of street driving to bed in?
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Apr 18, 2014 20:03
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Brigdh posted:Those screws are used for the assembly line. Get an impact driver from harbor freight, the kind you hit with a hammer. I've never had a problem removing the screws with an impact driver. I wanted to go get an impact driver but since today was a public holiday - Good Friday - all the loving shops were closed. So drilling out it was. I'll definitely go get one anyway because if it avoids this kind of hassle in the future then it'll be worth its weight in blue meth. The 300km thing is more the recommended guideline from the rotor manufacturer. There's a whole instruction sheet that came with the disks, including requiring me to polish the hubs and remove any rust, to ensure the disks seat evenly. I've followed these instructions before and they've served me well so v  v
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Apr 18, 2014 20:08
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