|
That's odd, I got the graphic from the Maytag site. Have you popped the control panel off? Every washer or dryer I've owned had a service manual taped to the back of it.
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2014 20:49
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 10, 2024 11:31 |
|
|
GWBBQ posted:That's odd, I got the graphic from the Maytag site. Have you popped the control panel off? Every washer or dryer I've owned had a service manual taped to the back of it. I think I figured it out. After a lot of frustration I managed to get the console off and look at the switch. It is the far left one on mine, which if for selecting temperature. I did some more googling and found that the temp/load sensing switch is a common failure on my model, so I found the part on amazon and ordered it. Installation looks pretty simple. Thanks for the help though, I could not find a graphic for whatever reason.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2014 20:58
|
|
|
I've got a door/lock question. My condo is from ancientest Chicago, and while it was rehabbed not long ago, the front door lock looks original-ish. It's got a deadbolt in the handle apparatus that I'd like to replace or re-key, but looking online I've yet to find any helpful information or replacements on this type. The lock/handle has metal face plates on the inside and outside of the door, so I'm not sure just buying a new regular deadlock is going to work without cutting metal. The attached pic should give an idea what I'm dealing with. If possible I'd like to keep the original look to match what the other people in my building have. Anyone with experience with these think I can get it replaced/re-keyed on my own? Or at least know what to call it so I can search for more info online? Is it time for a locksmith? Thanks!
|
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2014 16:21
|
|
|
Rooster Brooster posted:I've got a door/lock question. My condo is from ancientest Chicago, and while it was rehabbed not long ago, the front door lock looks original-ish. It's got a deadbolt in the handle apparatus that I'd like to replace or re-key, but looking online I've yet to find any helpful information or replacements on this type. The lock/handle has metal face plates on the inside and outside of the door, so I'm not sure just buying a new regular deadlock is going to work without cutting metal. The attached pic should give an idea what I'm dealing with. If possible I'd like to keep the original look to match what the other people in my building have. That would appear to be what's called a mortise lock.
|
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2014 16:58
|
|
|
That's exactly what I needed, thank you!
|
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2014 17:34
|
|
|
I got a few inches of water in my basement from the storms that came through yesterday. It was a LOT of rain, and we only got a little water, so in the grand scheme of things I feel pretty good about it. Everything was up off the floor and I'm drying it out now, so no harm was really done. That said, if there is something I can do for a few hundred bucks to keep it from happening again, I will do it. My basement has a floor storm drain in the center, and gently sloped concrete floors that drain to it. Where the exterior basement stairs come in, there is a square section of basement floor that is about 4 inches lower than the rest of the floor. We got about 3" of water centered on the floor drain and also in that stair depression. At first I thought that the storm drain backed up, but it actually seems like the ground water was just that high. It has receded now so that it is flush with the drain, and there is still an inch or so in the stair depression. Is this the sort of thing that I should put a sump pump in for? Doing so would require I dig a pit for it in the basement somewhere, because there isn't one currently. Would it matter that the floor is sloped to the drain rather than wherever the sump would go? Is there something other than a sump pump that I should consider?
|
|
#
?
May 1, 2014 16:39
|
|
|
I almost hate jumping in a forum I've never read and asking a question but... I'm at a loss right now. I want a large desk. But I don't want to pay for a large desk. Someone is selling a 6 foot long tempered glass sheet for a table or desk on craigslist for $20 and I figure hey if I can find some other cheap way to make legs for this that would kick rear end. 6 feet is a little long though and I can't cut tempered glass. It'd need good support (I imagine) to prevent bowing, or at least support with significant surface area. But I just can't figure out what I'd use for this. It's on carpet and it has to be at least two legs so I can put my legs under it. I really really don't want it to fall either. Does anybody have a clue what I could use? It'd be nice if it was materials I could alter for desk height which unfortunately ruled out a lot of cheap crap for me.
|
|
#
?
May 1, 2014 17:20
|
|
|
A door, some 4x4s, a few angle brackets and screws, done. You can get doors from salvage companies for cheap and they'll be a hell of a lot more resilient than glass.
|
|
#
?
May 1, 2014 17:23
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:A door, some 4x4s, a few angle brackets and screws, done. You can get doors from salvage companies for cheap and they'll be a hell of a lot more resilient than glass. Ikea sells table legs and trestles if you want to class it up a little too: http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/categories/departments/workspaces/11845/ The more expensive white trestles look height-adjustable too.
|
|
#
?
May 1, 2014 18:15
|
|
|
If watching Knock it Off! has taught me anything, it's that you can build anything you like out of cheap pine boards and some paint.
|
|
#
?
May 1, 2014 18:22
|
|
|
Update! For my washing machine fix, the switch was delivered by amazon today. I unwrapped it and was dismayed to see that the stem the crontrol knob would attach to was broken off. In fact, had the stem been intact, the part would not have fit in the box at all. Oh well, new part on the way when amazon gets one...
|
|
#
?
May 1, 2014 20:34
|
|
|
Trestles are a great idea thanks. The glass is now free even to pick up so its even better.
|
|
#
?
May 1, 2014 21:32
|
|
|
I have a quick plant question. In my office I have 2 windows with relatively deep sills, so I can use them as shelves. The windows face north east,so they get a lot of morning sunlight but not too much in the rest of the day, although I rarely have to turn on my lights due to the ambient light coming in. However, I put a window film on the windows to keep out some of the heat. I want to get a small plant or something for one of the window sills, but I don't know how the plants make their energy, if the light being blocked by the film is the part that the plants use. I've got one of those light mills (they look like a light bulb with a little black and white spinner on the inside) on the shelf right now. If I open the window, it spins like crazy. If I close the window, putting the film between it and the sun, it barely moves, even with the direct light. The film I got is "Titanium", it says it rejects 75% of the sun's heat, and 95% of UV light. Thanks
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2014 14:19
|
|
|
So is your question just "will a plant be happy behind the film I put in?" Because the answer to that is almost certainly no, the plant will not be happy. 
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2014 14:23
|
|
|
Bad Munki posted:So is your question just "will a plant be happy behind the film I put in?" Because the answer to that is almost certainly no, the plant will not be happy. Ok, so it may not have been the quickest plant question. Thanks, I guess I'll either take the film off the bottom pane of the window, or get a plastic plant.
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2014 14:42
|
|
|
There are some species of plants that do okay in office conditions, you just have to know what they are. That film is basically filtering out all the "good stuff" plants have evolved to need. I have seen some types thrive fully indoors just under office tube lights, of course, but you have to choose carefully. If you google "good office plants" you'll get some guidance, there are "top ten" style lists all over the place. The one I'm looking at right now lists spider plants as #1, and I can vouch for that: they grow like gangbusters in almost any conditions, I have a bunch in my house that are nowhere near windows and I don't think they've seen proper light for years, but they're huge and bushy as ever. Plus, they can grow from almost nothing, if you want a start, I'd happily clip a few off and drop them in an envelope for you. Philodendrons are another popular office plant choice. They tend to grow long leafy creepers that you can string along cubicle walls, those are nice. So yeah, all is not lost, you just have to realize you can't go to a garden shop and pick any plant at random.
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2014 14:56
|
|
|
Bad Munki posted:That film is basically filtering out all the "good stuff" plants have evolved to need. You sure about that? Photosynthesis is driven entirely on the visible light spectrum, which should not be absorbed to a significant extent by that film. fake edit: okay, no, never mind. That film's got a fairly dark tint, so you're putting any plants behind it in some serious shade.
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2014 17:50
|
|
|
Zhentar posted:You sure about that? Photosynthesis is driven entirely on the visible light spectrum, which should not be absorbed to a significant extent by that film. The window in question, for conversation's sake:  Yes, my view is a roof that is painted silver. Which is why I still get a lot of light even without direct sunlight coming in.
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2014 20:10
|
|
|
Is there a quick application product I can use to fill the cracks between some boards on a wall in an attic? They're not tongue and groove and not beadboard. They were put up years ago and we're just painting over them to brighten the room a bit. Right now I'm using caulk to fill in the gaps, but I was wondering if there was a quicker/easier way to do it? We've veered from wood putty as there will be temperature changes and that would probably crack easily. Is there another option other than just using tube caulk?
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2014 16:19
|
|
|
So I hate pushing around dirty water with a mop to clean my tiled kitchen floor. Anyone have a recommendation for a floor cleaner that is tile friendly? Most of what I could find was for carpet cleaner machines.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2014 17:37
|
|
|
Yestermoment posted:So I hate pushing around dirty water with a mop to clean my tiled kitchen floor. Anyone have a recommendation for a floor cleaner that is tile friendly? Most of what I could find was for carpet cleaner machines. Swifer wet jet seems to work really well.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2014 18:24
|
|
|
AFewBricksShy posted:I have a quick plant question. If you want pretty flowers, you might look at an orchid. Phalaenopsis do well in indirect light. I have one on my kitchen table in a room with a south facing window, but it gets no direct light at all. It is doing great just in the ambient light from the windows. You barely ever have to water them, and the flowers last forever. Just keep an eye on it and if it starts to look wilty, move it away from the window because that is still too much heat and light.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2014 21:03
|
|
|
I need to take 2mm off one edge of three pieces of 9mm plywood, I have a circular saw, is that the best tool for the job? Any tips on setup?
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2014 22:06
|
|
|
Cakefool posted:I need to take 2mm off one edge of three pieces of 9mm plywood, I have a circular saw, is that the best tool for the job? Any tips on setup? Probably not - you're trying to cut off less than the kerf of the saw most likely, and that's gonna be tough. I'd look at a router, personally, ideally mounted to a table with a split fence.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2014 22:20
|
|
|
Eh....if you have a sharp blade that's appropriate for the material you can make that work on a table saw. But if you don't have either, a router is probably the best way to go.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2014 23:42
|
|
|
thespaceinvader posted:Probably not - you're trying to cut off less than the kerf of the saw most likely, and that's gonna be tough. I'd look at a router, personally, ideally mounted to a table with a split fence. I actually know most of these words. Thanks, PBS Woodworking shows!
|
|
#
?
May 4, 2014 01:54
|
|
|
You can do without the split fence if you shim the out-feed side of your fence. I think the wood whisperer channel on youtube has a video about doing that to use your router table as a narrow jointer.
|
|
#
?
May 4, 2014 01:59
|
|
|
Take a shot with the saw, a new sharp blade, a fence, a good, solid surface & a couple of clamps.
|
|
#
?
May 4, 2014 02:09
|
|
|
I don't have a table, space for a table, or a router, is a circular saw just going to demolish the edge then?
|
|
#
?
May 4, 2014 08:01
|
|
|
PainterofCrap posted:Take a shot with the saw, a new sharp blade, a fence, a good, solid surface & a couple of clamps. That. It's certainly possible to do that kind of trimming with a circular saw if you're very careful, but I know I wouldn't want to try. Be very careful, though; without support on both sides of the blade it's a lot easier to slip.
|
|
#
?
May 4, 2014 12:16
|
|
|
Stabby McDamage posted:If you take it to radio shack, they have all barrel jacks ever, so you can guess and check until you find a match. Then you can buy the tip and solder. One thing -- they don't identify what the tip is beyond a proprietaery letter code, so you'll probably have to buy their overpriced one. This is from a few pages back, but I wanted to check before I do anything stupid. The wire I want to lengthen is 24 AWG, so very small, and I have 20 AWG lying around that I can splice in. Is that going to be fine? I know going from a larger wire to a smaller wire is a hazard, but going from smaller to larger is usually fine. Please, internet strangers, help me avoid a fire.
|
|
#
?
May 4, 2014 14:57
|
|
|
armorer posted:I got a few inches of water in my basement from the storms that came through yesterday. It was a LOT of rain, and we only got a little water, so in the grand scheme of things I feel pretty good about it. Everything was up off the floor and I'm drying it out now, so no harm was really done. That said, if there is something I can do for a few hundred bucks to keep it from happening again, I will do it. Welcome to my hell! My house is the low spot on my street, and the builder should have put the basement a few feet higher. Yes, you need a sump pump. In addition to a proper sump pump system (see below), you need: -small electric pump (standard garden hose size) -25 foot garden hose for pumping -extension cord -a decent pair of rubber boots -Optionals: dry extension cord connector, nipples for adding on additional garden hoses I keep all of it in a plastic milk crate, ready to go. The pump isn't just for pumping out standing water, it can also be backup for the main sump pump. I've been wanting a buy a beefy electric "trash pump" utility pump, but I've gotten a huge amount of mileage out of the cheap one that I bought at a local hardware store during an emergency. Since I don't need to pump water out of my basement (thank god), I use it to pump the yard out when it floods. quote:Is there something other than a sump pump that I should consider? Yeah, call a basement system professional. It's not cheap, but it's a good investment. The ONLY reason I've never had any water damage is because the previous owner put in a beefy 220-volt sump pump with a separate battery back up system, along with full french drains along the wet side of the house. Now when the yard floods, even if water is coming in under the back door, the french drain gets it and pumps it right back outside. I even let my basement company gouge me for an annual cleaning/maintenance, because the work is guaranteed, meaning I get a free service call if it stops working (which has happened).
|
|
#
?
May 4, 2014 14:58
|
|
|
Squashy Nipples posted:Welcome to my hell! My house is the low spot on my street, and the builder should have put the basement a few feet higher. Start outside. Check your grade and the gutters first. then welcome to hell.
|
|
#
?
May 4, 2014 15:19
|
|
|
Yestermoment posted:So I hate pushing around dirty water with a mop to clean my tiled kitchen floor. Anyone have a recommendation for a floor cleaner that is tile friendly? Most of what I could find was for carpet cleaner machines. The Cuban mop is a broomstick with a t-shape at the end that one drapes a medium-sized towel over. You wring it out and dunk it in fresh water + cleaner as often as you wish.
|
|
#
?
May 4, 2014 17:46
|
|
|
Yestermoment posted:So I hate pushing around dirty water with a mop to clean my tiled kitchen floor. Anyone have a recommendation for a floor cleaner that is tile friendly? Most of what I could find was for carpet cleaner machines. Get a steam mop.
|
|
#
?
May 4, 2014 20:58
|
|
|
Deadite posted:This is from a few pages back, but I wanted to check before I do anything stupid. The wire I want to lengthen is 24 AWG, so very small, and I have 20 AWG lying around that I can splice in. Is that going to be fine? I know going from a larger wire to a smaller wire is a hazard, but going from smaller to larger is usually fine. This is perfectly fine.
|
|
#
?
May 4, 2014 22:07
|
|
|
Deadite posted:This is from a few pages back, but I wanted to check before I do anything stupid. The wire I want to lengthen is 24 AWG, so very small, and I have 20 AWG lying around that I can splice in. Is that going to be fine? I know going from a larger wire to a smaller wire is a hazard, but going from smaller to larger is usually fine. If you don't want to go through Radio Shack, you can get a 0.01mm digital caliper for under $20.
|
|
#
?
May 4, 2014 22:09
|
|
|
Thanks guys, I ended up citing a section of wire from one light that had too much and spliced it into the othervlight that was too short, so everything worked out. It's good to know I can use the larger wire if I need to though, but working with electricity makes me incredibly nervous.
|
|
#
?
May 4, 2014 23:15
|
|
|
Deadite posted:Thanks guys, I ended up citing a section of wire from one light that had too much and spliced it into the othervlight that was too short, so everything worked out. It's good to know I can use the larger wire if I need to though, but working with electricity makes me incredibly nervous. You shouldn't be too nervous. First, if it's low voltage (<20V), you can't even feel it if you touch it. Second, anything remotely reputable will have a number of failsafes. Your wall outlet has a breaker, your AC adapter probably has shorting protection and/or a thermal cutoff, and most non-trivial devices have fuses in them. So if you splice, just use a large enough gauge and make a good, sturdy connection. The main thing that starts fire are "short circuits", where a lot of current goes through something it's not rated for, heating it up to the point where it could ignite a fire. For this to happen, all of the above would have to fail. About the only thing I've seen where that could easily happen is some super cheap Chinese Christmas lights that used 24 AWG for 110VAC power. If nothing shorts, it's fine, since it uses so little current, but if something shorts them, then those wires could heat up BEFORE the outlet breaker trips. That's why anything running directly off 110VAC power is at least 18AWG. EDIT: To be clear, I'm not saying "never worry", but rather "just be informed and respect electricity, and you'll be fine" Stabby McDamage fucked around with this message at 03:01 on May 5, 2014 |
|
#
?
May 5, 2014 02:59
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 10, 2024 11:31 |
|
|
Hopefully this is a short enough question that it can go in here. My central AC unit's fan has stopped turning. The motor engages (you can hear it quite distinctly) and when I push the fan blades with a yardstick they move fine (as far as I can tell, but they're certainly not stuck) though they don't engage when I do this. The vents still blow cool air. From what I've read around it seems like the first step is the check the capacitor. I popped the panel off and this is what I saw:  which makes it a little difficult to tell what sort of replacement capacitor I should get. Also the whole covered in rust thing does look suspicious. Here are the specs  Any suggestions?
|
|
#
?
May 5, 2014 17:00
|
|
