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Yeah I figure next time there's a sale on Fuji stuff I'll snype in the kit and Zeiss lenses I got for one.
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Apr 17, 2015 08:39
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$999 is not that bad. Next year you will be able to get it for 850. If the Canadian dollar crash again, you can get it below 800. Anyone interest in this lens will sell a 14mm or 23mm to fund it anyway. I hope Fuji focus on a smaller lens for the next wide angle. I am thinking of a 10 or 12mm f/4.5 type of compact lens. With manual distant scale of course.
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Apr 17, 2015 10:18
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What's the main reason you guys are choosing the 16mm over the 14mm? I wonder when you need the 1.4 in wide angle, close up street portraits? Maybe astrophotography? I think the 14mm is a perfect size and has outstanding performance. If only my 23 and 56 were as small 
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Apr 17, 2015 11:46
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I think 16mm is probably my favorite focal length for landscapes and the 1.4 will be huge for astrophotography or low-light landscapes (storms). 18mm is really common on kits and whatnot, but tends to be just a little narrow for capturing an entire supercell. If I still had the Fuji I'd sell everything and rock the 16 and the 35 only (or maybe 27).
luchadornado fucked around with this message at 13:05 on Apr 17, 2015 |
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Apr 17, 2015 13:00
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I picked up a Fuji X100t this week to partner with my XT1. Absolutely love this camera.
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Apr 17, 2015 16:34
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Where does one start when looking to move from a dslr (Canon 7D) to something... smaller? I've just come back from a hiking trip where I once again lugged a 7D along with a bunch of lenses around for a few days. Usually that would be fine, but nowadays these holidays involve more children and my back isn't getting any younger... So apologies for asking what I guess is a really common question in here, I was hoping the OP would help me get an idea of what I should be looking at, but it appears to be a few years out of date. How do I go about replacing this lot with a mirrorless system: Canon 7D 24-70mm f/2.8L 70-200mm f/2.8 100mm f/2.8L macro 16-35 f/2.8L Sigma 30mm f/1.4 30mm Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8L + a couple of flashes As for what I like to shoot? Anything and everything. A lot of portraits, a lot of candids (quite tricky with a Canon 70-200). Where do I even begin? From what I've read I'm steered toward the Sony a6000 and I have no idea what lenses. Budget-wise, I'd like for the body + a couple of lenses to come in less than £1200
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Apr 18, 2015 16:55
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a6000 is a good starting point, if you like primes and adapted lenses. Fuji has the more professional zoom ranges locked down, and lots of people like them. You can also go for the micro4/3 lenses, they're nice, cheap, and really small. An a6000 or nearly any m4/3 body and lens setup will easily be under £1200, but Fuji might get close with their expensive zooms.
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Apr 18, 2015 16:59
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Wll you need is a X100s/t.
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Apr 18, 2015 17:14
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Jiblet posted:Where does one start when looking to move from a dslr (Canon 7D) to something... smaller? All your Canon lenses have micro 4/3 equivalents, the sigma and tokina, not so much. Closest to the sigma would be the summilux 15mm f1.7. The tokina? Nope. Also, replacing all that is not going to be cheap. Quick and dirty math you're probably looking at around £3000 to replace all those lenses with new m43 equivalents minus the tokina. To start you off though, you could probably manage a couple of them and a body for around your budget.
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Apr 18, 2015 19:33
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Linedance posted:All your Canon lenses have micro 4/3 equivalents, the sigma and tokina, not so much. Closest to the sigma would be the summilux 15mm f1.7. The tokina? Nope. He is shooting his FF lens on a APS Canon body. The Tokina 116's direct equivalent is Olympus 7-14mm 2.8 There is also Fuji 10-24 f/4.
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Apr 18, 2015 20:06
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whatever7 posted:He is shooting his FF lens on a APS Canon body. The Tokina 116's direct equivalent is Olympus 7-14mm 2.8 Oh yeah, I guess I was just thinking of full frame equivalents, not factoring the 1.6 canon crop. In that case, my guesstimates are probably a bit off.
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Apr 18, 2015 20:35
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I hopped from almost the same lenses and a 7D to a Fuji XT1 and couldn't be happier. Nothing can quite replace the amazing Tokina (not for f/2.8 and not at the Tokina price), and you'll miss the Canon L focus speed, but the body and lens sizes are just such a massive step up. (Or down  ) Regarding flashes, I haven't looked in to those yet so I'm not sure.Really, the Fuji just takes pictures just so much better. I'll post a comparison picture when I get home.
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Apr 19, 2015 00:23
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Does anyone have the Fuji Instax printer? I'm very keen to pair classic chrome on the x100t with instant film.
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Apr 19, 2015 02:07
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Yeah all your lenses have an equivalent in the Fuji XF system, though if you wanted to get every single lens, that's probably going to exceed your budget. Sony has nice bodies but not a very good lens lineup.
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Apr 19, 2015 03:47
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Thanks everyone, seems like I should start looking at Fuji. I don't need all the lenses replacing for £1200, I'd just like to be able to get a couple to start with before I look to sell all my Canon gear.
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Apr 19, 2015 20:01
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red19fire posted:Does anyone have the Fuji Instax printer? I'm very keen to pair classic chrome on the x100t with instant film. I have one paired to my X-T1 and it's alright. While it's fairly straightforward to use, it's not terribly fast with connecting to the printer (about 5 seconds) and sending the image to the printer (about 20 seconds) taking up the most time. As a result, I don't feel like works well with spontaneous shooting and sharing that the Instax cameras can do. During the transmitting process the camera gets locked out so there's a potential to miss good photos. This stuck out to me the most since I tried using it during a New Years dance party and missed a few good shots while the printer was working and hunting down the people in the photo or telling them to wait since it took so long to print out. If they could speed up the transfer process so that I can keep taking photos, it would make the printer a lot more useable. I do wonder how the whole thing works and what slows it down. Particularly where the image gets resized, since the printer works at 640X480, and what gets sent to the printer. I wonder if the full size image is being sent to the printer or if the smartphone app or camera resizes the image first and then sends it. I have a feeling it could be the latter in which case I wonder how much faster the process would be if the camera was given a lower resolution image to start with. At least that was what I first thought before I made an experiment by timing how much time it took to print out a 640X480 image from the camera and it ended up taking about the same amount of time. Now I wonder if I could get around the camera lock by using an Eye-Fi and an Android or iOS phone or tablet and using the phone or tablet to print the photo out. While I imagine the process will take longer what with having to switch between apps and Wifi networks, at least you can continue to take photos. Or have a second camera if you have to take a shot while the camera is busy but that's starting to get silly. I wish the built-in setup was much faster or wouldn't lock out the camera. Interestingly enough, the Instax printer makes an open Wifi network which a computer can connect to. There doesn't seem to be much straightforward things that you can do like connecting to the network's default gateway. I wonder how much potential there is to hacking it? Also, having to use 2 CR2 batteries is inconvenient to the point where I made an adapter so I could use it with a USB rechargeable battery pack that had a 2.2A port. While I made mine, there are adapters being sold on Amazon that do the same thing. http://www.amazon.com/CAIUL-Power-Instax-Instant-Printer/dp/B00OOMGFAE I highly recommend getting one and a USB battery pack if you don't have one already. Just make sure you get a battery that has a 2.2A port that's normally meant for charging tablets. Also, the film is apparently sensitive to X-rays (according to the box) which could be an inconvenience if you fly a lot. While the TSA agents at JFK airport were accommodating, it's something to be mindful of or else you could end up with ruined film. So be sure to pack the film and printer (if there's still film inside since you can't take it out once it's loaded) in an easily accessible spot in your luggage when you go flying or go anywhere where you have to get your belongings X-rayed.
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Apr 19, 2015 21:37
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So I have had my X100S for a few weeks. I just discovered the EVF mode today by accident. All this time I thought the the OVF/EVF switch was the self timer switch. Reminds me of time I got through most of Resident Evil 4 without learning the run button.
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Apr 19, 2015 22:13
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speaking of the OVF/EVF switch, I seem to have inadvertantly disabled the OVF mode on my x100t. I literally have no idea how I did this, has anyone seen it happen before that can tell me how to turn it back on? The OVF/EVF switch won't really do anything at this point, I can still change display mode between screen/EVF/sensor but I can't turn off the EVF to use just the OVF. grr. edit: gah, figured it out. macro mode wont allow OVF, guess i didnt realize that it has been in macro mode or that that was a limitation MMD3 fucked around with this message at 04:37 on Apr 20, 2015 |
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Apr 20, 2015 02:11
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MMD3 posted:speaking of the OVF/EVF switch, I seem to have inadvertantly disabled the OVF mode on my x100t. I literally have no idea how I did this, has anyone seen it happen before that can tell me how to turn it back on? The OVF/EVF switch won't really do anything at this point, I can still change display mode between screen/EVF/sensor but I can't turn off the EVF to use just the OVF. grr. I did the same thing and thought I had broken the switch somehow for about 2 minutes, that was annoying. They should at least flash the macro icon at you or something when you attempt to switch to OVF with it on.
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Apr 20, 2015 21:21
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Is there any way to change the colour of the focus peeking in the Fuji X-E1? I find the white hard to impossible to see depending on the subject, and would like to change it to a nice red or something.
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Apr 20, 2015 21:59
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Does anyone have experience with the teleconverter/lenses for the X100? This camera is near perfect for me, but I would like A more portraity option, and I'm not sure if that or springing for an xe1 is a better plan.
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Apr 21, 2015 13:20
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I've been meaning to write something up, as I asked the same question a few weeks back. The image quality is great, the failings of the TCL-X100 are in some of the ergonomics. It's very heavy, relatively speaking, and it does intrude into the OVF. As someone who came from RFs, the latter ended up not bothering me too much. The weight makes the camera fairly front heavy and without some additional support it is unwieldy. When I take my thumb rest off to put on flash remotes, you definitely realize the weight. Even with that downside, I am very happy with the TCL, it's been fun to explore and play with. I enjoy having the OVF with the 50mm equivalent and its replaced my X-E1 for most purposes.
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Apr 21, 2015 13:38
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Thanks! How quick is the transition back and forth, or do you even find yourself going through that very often?
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Apr 21, 2015 14:34
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How quick can you screw and unscrew a filter? About as fast as that. I don't switch much; my fn button is assigned to the nd filter and so I have to dig into the menus to switch.
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Apr 21, 2015 15:50
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Not sure if this considered mirrorless or P&S, but decent deal on the X100T today: http://slickdeals.net/f/7809197-fuj...ards-1199-ac-fs
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Apr 21, 2015 18:43
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JSW2 posted:I've been meaning to write something up, as I asked the same question a few weeks back. It handles much better if you're using one of the RRS (or chinese clone) grip+arca plate combos.
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Apr 21, 2015 20:04
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 Went hog wild. 
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Apr 22, 2015 04:30
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Sorry if this is the wrong place to ask - but does anyone have a good LR Preset for the Fuji Classic Chrome? I kind of want to see how these come out, and I'm not particularly interested in getting into modding EXIF files of whatever.
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Apr 22, 2015 19:55
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I picked up a sigma dp2 Merrill. It's a pretty nice small camera once you learn its shortcomings and figure out the software. The original price is pretty comical. I am debating grabbing an OVF for it or just putting a 3" LCD magnifying eye piece loupe. Anyone have any 45mm OVF recommendations?
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Apr 22, 2015 20:34
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I am thinking of getting a manual macro lens to compliment my Fuji lineup. What's a relatively cheap 1:1 decent macro lens I can get? Is there such a thing?
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Apr 22, 2015 20:49
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whatever7 posted:I am thinking of getting a manual macro lens to compliment my Fuji lineup. What's a relatively cheap 1:1 decent macro lens I can get? Is there such a thing? Reverse mount any old 50mm lens and you'll get good results, although I can't remember if you'll be quite at 1:1 with that. Reverse mounting stuff is a real fun way to do stuff. Otherwise adapt a Tamron 90mm or similar.
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Apr 22, 2015 22:11
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Mr. Despair posted:Reverse mount any old 50mm lens and you'll get good results, although I can't remember if you'll be quite at 1:1 with that. Reverse mounting stuff is a real fun way to do stuff. There are too many Tarmon 90 variants, anybody has experience?
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Apr 22, 2015 22:25
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I'm just going to try both, stupid question. Skizzzer fucked around with this message at 23:58 on Apr 22, 2015 |
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Apr 22, 2015 23:46
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whatever7 posted:There are too many Tarmon 90 variants, anybody has experience? They're all excellent. The difference is the older ones require a 2x teleconverter, there's a matched one if you like, to get 1:1. The later and AF ones have better anti-flare coatings.
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Apr 23, 2015 00:01
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Skizzzer posted:How is the motion panorama mode on the Fuji X-E1? I want to play around with panaromas, but I'm not sure if I should do it the "traditional" way or with the panorama mode. I haven't done either before. It's not full resolution. I think the height is around 1440 pixel. Yo should do both. For place that have no people walking around, its very easy to make one. For busy places you get limps hanging around. For example these are done in the panorama mode, with the kit lens quote:The limit is that you get cut off things, you can not hold the camera vertically. As you can see, not being able hold it vertically the kit lens is not wide enough to include everything in top and bottom. This is composed in PTGui (so I can adjust the horizon) and fixed in Photoshop (so I can do fake multiple exposure) with the same lens. quote:whatever7 fucked around with this message at 00:24 on Apr 23, 2015 |
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Apr 23, 2015 00:20
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whatever, thank you, that's helpful.
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Apr 24, 2015 18:43
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PTGui works well. I used it to stitch a 500+ panorama. The built in corrections and color blending was very helpful. Microsoft photosynth recently got a big update and works well for non ridiculous gigapixel things.
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Apr 24, 2015 18:55
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Whoa, that's a lot of images. What was it of? Do you mind if I see it?
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Apr 24, 2015 19:01
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Skizzzer posted:Whoa, that's a lot of images. What was it of? Do you mind if I see it? http://gigapan.com/gigapans/166709 I did it for a school project. It was more of a technical exercise than anything else. The sky is terrible and the image itself is heavily edited (removed people and things for people like lane lines and car door handles) but the stitching worked out pretty well.
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Apr 24, 2015 20:28
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If you have Lightroom CC, the new version that just came out added panorama support. I know a lot of people hate him, but Tony Northrup had a video about the subject and he uses MS Image Composite Editor in windows http://research.microsoft.com/en-us/um/redmond/projects/ice/ (I have a mac, but it seemed kinda neat).
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Apr 25, 2015 18:55
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