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Tamir Lenk posted:Sheet metal stuff thanks! I need to get some tools now. All of it looks relatively cheap too. I do want to get an acetylene set up, but I have been reading, and I think propane might be a good choice. Plus its readily available.
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Apr 28, 2015 16:56
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There's a metalworking thread in DIY
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Apr 28, 2015 17:13
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BrokenKnucklez posted:thanks! I need to get some tools now. All of it looks relatively cheap too. I do want to get an acetylene set up, but I have been reading, and I think propane might be a good choice. Plus its readily available. If you work aluminum, you'll need a propane or MAPP torch to anneal it. First get the piece sooty ( I use a candle), then heat it with a torch until the soot just burns off. The soot burns off at about the same temp as annealing, so that helps avoid overheating the metal. If you are doing steel, you may need more heat than a propane torch provides, but I don't think you need to anneal as much as with aluminum. I don't really mess with torches and/or welding yet. So others can tell you a lot more.
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Apr 28, 2015 17:16
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revmoo posted:There's a metalworking thread in DIY Actually, I forgot we weren't in that thread. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2905844
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Apr 28, 2015 17:17
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Tamir Lenk posted:and a planishing hammer from HF ($150 with stand). How many CFM does that thing realistically pull?
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Apr 29, 2015 00:13
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BrokenKnucklez posted:thanks! I need to get some tools now. All of it looks relatively cheap too. I do want to get an acetylene set up, but I have been reading, and I think propane might be a good choice. Plus its readily available. Read about oxy-propylene, much better and safer than oxy-acetylene. Just as hot, if not hotter, just takes some getting used to. When I'm done with my bottle of acetylene, I'm switching.
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Apr 29, 2015 01:38
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Uthor posted:Mass air flow. I don't really know much about MAF sensors (not widely used on construction equipment). But you should be able to check the obvious wires: One should show 12V compared to ground, one should have zero resistance to ground. I think one or two should show 5V. If you're getting a fault code telling you it's out of range either high or low and can figure out which is the signal wire and which is the return, you should be able to jump those together and the out of range code will switch. You might have to do that with it plugged in and the car running, and I don't think it will work if the sensor outputs a frequency. Note: I don't actually work on cars so someone feel free to correct me if I'm way off. I've tested lots of wiring for other sensors this way. If the fault code doesn't reverse when you jump the wires, then there's a break/bad connection somewhere.
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Apr 29, 2015 07:29
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Splizwarf posted:How many CFM does that thing realistically pull? http://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/94000-94999/94847.pdf According to the manual it pulls "4 SCFM." But I don't really know if that's accurate, etc. I tend to run it at about 80-90 PSI, and it makes my compressor (15 or 20 gal IIRC) kick on in just a few minutes.
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Apr 29, 2015 16:41
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EKDS5k posted:good ideas Huh, didn't think about that. Now to hunt down a wiring diagram to see what pin does what. I bought a repair manual on DVD when I got the car, but it doesn't work on anything newer than Windows XP. I should bust that out and see if I can get it going again.
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Apr 29, 2015 16:45
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If it doesn't, go to http://bbbind.com/free_tsb.html and hit the red button for wiring diagrams, then enter your make/model/year/drivetrain etc. Not as good as factory diagrams in many cases, far better in others, but covers 95% of what I need usually.
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Apr 30, 2015 03:03
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They just opened a Harbor Freight (kinda) down the road from me. Time to load up on cheap tools  Been meaning to piece together a better set to keep in my truck, and a second set to supplement what I've got at home. Also want to get a few random things, like more breaker bars and moving blankets.
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Apr 30, 2015 03:24
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HF breaker bars are pretty tough. I don't know if they are kastien tough... But good enough.
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Apr 30, 2015 04:13
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I don't think we managed to break their long 1/2" bar but it was a few years old and I'm not sure they're using the same design anymore. Their 3/4" breaker bar has done well. Haven't even twisted it yet, and I am pretty sure I put over a thousand foot pounds through it popping a rusted pinion nut loose a while ago. Takes four feet of pipe (for a total lever arm of around 5 feet) like a champ. It's still chinesium, but 3/4" of chinesium is still a hell of a lot of metal to break.
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Apr 30, 2015 04:59
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What would you guys consider a good price for a 60 gallon air tank for a compressor? Looking around at used tanks since I have a hand-me-down compressor already and it doesnt seem like many places sell just the tank on its own without a compressor included. Having a hard time figuring out what a realistic price is for a used 60 gallon in good shape, or something of similar size. For air tools, natch.
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May 2, 2015 16:14
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PaintVagrant posted:What would you guys consider a good price for a 60 gallon air tank for a compressor? Looking around at used tanks since I have a hand-me-down compressor already and it doesnt seem like many places sell just the tank on its own without a compressor included. Having a hard time figuring out what a realistic price is for a used 60 gallon in good shape, or something of similar size. For air tools, natch. Mine was around 500 new. I'd expect to pay 250 used. Make sure you get an ASME tank
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May 2, 2015 16:51
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PaintVagrant posted:What would you guys consider a good price for a 60 gallon air tank for a compressor? Looking around at used tanks since I have a hand-me-down compressor already and it doesnt seem like many places sell just the tank on its own without a compressor included. Having a hard time figuring out what a realistic price is for a used 60 gallon in good shape, or something of similar size. For air tools, natch. Buy a broken 60 gallon compressor for like 75 bucks. Plumb to existing compressor, block off broken compressor from tank. Optionally, fix the broken one and sell your hand me down. Hell, I got my 60 gallon from another goon for free because his boss was tired of looking at it in the corner of the warehouse at work, and all it needed was a new motor.
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May 2, 2015 17:44
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I'm in the market for an impact gun, and this (http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0002SRM3I/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB) one is tickling my fancy. I work on aircraft components (mainly wheels/brakes), and I don't often need to use one more than once daily. Is there anything else in that price range that I'm overlooking? And as far as service/warranty goes, how does that work with me being in Canada? I'm having a hard time finding a dealer.
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May 3, 2015 21:03
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Try to find one of those locally and heft it (bare and with various size/weight sockets and extensions on it if possible). While that gun is probably a solid purchase given IR's rep, I personally think that design style is incredibly awkward in all circumstances. Some people like it a lot, but I hate it every aspect of it from the grip to the trigger to the geometry and proportions etc. Sort of a Webley vs. Glock thing. I have one of the same style (different brand) in the bottom of my box that I gave away twice. 
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May 4, 2015 08:44
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surivdaoreht posted:I'm in the market for an impact gun, and this (http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0002SRM3I/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB) one is tickling my fancy. I work on aircraft components (mainly wheels/brakes), and I don't often need to use one more than once daily. Is there anything else in that price range that I'm overlooking? And as far as service/warranty goes, how does that work with me being in Canada? I'm having a hard time finding a dealer. If you're not using one that often I'd look at a used one on eBay. Look at the main brands like Cleo, IR, Atlascopco. Industrial ones will be heavily all metal. But look to see if the torque bias is on cw or ccw and consider what's important to you that way. Also consider most of those brands make polymer body tools. Most of those have the exact same motor and impact mechanism as the industrial counterpart and are much lighter. If your not throwing it around and running it over with a fork lift you would probably be fine with the polymer.
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May 4, 2015 14:30
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Basically everyone Is giving sound advice. I would also look at aircat tools. I have seen those get mutilated while being used at pepboys. And they just kept on keeping on.
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May 4, 2015 14:37
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SouthsideSaint posted:Basically everyone Is giving sound advice. I would also look at aircat tools. I have seen those get mutilated while being used at pepboys. And they just kept on keeping on. http://www.amazon.com/AIRCAT-1150-Killer-Torque-2-Inch/dp/B007WQQ90A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1430769394&sr=8-1&keywords=aircat I picked this up for $140, it's amazing. Light, powerful, and quieter than my old Earthquake (not that that's particularly difficult).
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May 4, 2015 20:57
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sharkytm posted:http://www.amazon.com/AIRCAT-1150-Killer-Torque-2-Inch/dp/B007WQQ90A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1430769394&sr=8-1&keywords=aircat I never understand why people talk bad about the earthquake line. I know HUR DUR HF CHINEESIUM HURF DURF. But I have had mine for five years now its been dropped way too many times, and still keeps going. It breaks nuts my boss's older snap on wouldn't even budge. I mean for an entry gun for a lube tech or beginner mechanic its perfect.
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May 4, 2015 21:01
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SouthsideSaint posted:I never understand why people talk bad about the earthquake line. I know HUR DUR HF CHINEESIUM HURF DURF. But I have had mine for five years now its been dropped way too many times, and still keeps going. It breaks nuts my boss's older snap on wouldn't even budge. I mean for an entry gun for a lube tech or beginner mechanic its perfect. I still have mine, and it's been abused to hell and back. It just happens to be noisier than the Aircat, and not quite as strong. And heavier. I'm not talking poo poo on it, because it's a great gun.
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May 4, 2015 21:08
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That's cool. I really didn't even mean to direct it at you. I just have so many people talk poo poo about it. Then use mine and say nothing. I mean yes its noisy and not super strong but for under 100$ you cant do much better.
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May 4, 2015 21:10
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SouthsideSaint posted:I mean for an entry gun for a lube tech or beginner mechanic its perfect. ...until the beginner mechanic uses it to put your wheels back on at full power.
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May 4, 2015 23:16
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Geoj posted:...until the beginner mechanic uses it to put your wheels back on at full power. PFFt at the dealership that's how they wanted us to attach tires. But everyone has to learn there mistake somehow. Its funny you say that because I once handed a brand new lube tech my earthquake a torque stick and the socket. I walk away to get a drink, when I come back I see the torque stick on my toolbox and that's it. I asked the guy what he did. He told me " I used the impact gun till the lugnut stopped." 
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May 5, 2015 14:44
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To be fair its better than him having a wheel off. ... for steelies, I zip em down with a hundred torque stick nice and snug and let em roll. For alloys I zip em and then torque em to spec with a wrench. Although according to ASE, you should never put wheels on with a rattle gun. Preoptopus fucked around with this message at 04:30 on May 6, 2015 |
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May 6, 2015 04:27
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sharkytm posted:http://www.amazon.com/AIRCAT-1150-Killer-Torque-2-Inch/dp/B007WQQ90A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1430769394&sr=8-1&keywords=aircat I recently got the Nitrocat 1355 3/8 version and like it a lot so far. I broke the hammers in my 1/2" IR 2130 with some light home auto repair and decided to try out Aircat instead for my next gun. I was able to fix my IR with a $70 kit but it seems like it should last a little more than 3 years when used a couple times a month at most. It's probably more of an indictment of my air compressor but the little Nitrocat seems pretty close to my IR in performance. It's only an inch or so shorter but using 3/8 sockets lets you access a lot of places the bigger gun wouldn't fit.
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May 7, 2015 02:21
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Bruinator posted:I recently got the Nitrocat 1355 3/8 version and like it a lot so far. I broke the hammers in my 1/2" IR 2130 with some light home auto repair and decided to try out Aircat instead for my next gun. I was able to fix my IR with a $70 kit but it seems like it should last a little more than 3 years when used a couple times a month at most. If I did more work, I'd buy the Klutch compact gun: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200419927_200419927
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May 8, 2015 14:17
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sharkytm posted:What size compressor tank, and what size lines are you using? I found a huge difference when I went from a 33G tank with 1/4 line to an 80G tank with 3/4" copper feeding 3/8" line. No change in airline pressure, but much higher pressures at the gun inlet, and better pressure regulation/recharge. I'm using a 5 gallon Makita MAC5200 nailer compressor with 50' of 3/8 line. It claims to output 6.5CFM at 90 psi but I've never measured it and would guess way less, especially with my small diameter line. I set my regulator to deliver 90psi at the gun and can get about 10-15 seconds of what feels like full power before it kicks on which is usually enough to break loose whatever I'm going after. It zips off Subaru axle nuts, suspension stuff, etc with no problem. High flow things like die grinders, cutoff wheels, or blaster are completely out of the question and I've been holding off on getting a plasma cutter since their minimum air requirements are apparently really low compared to what you actually need. The little compressor honestly works a lot better than I originally expected. At the time I got it I thought I needed portability and only had 110V. I've got a 40A 240V circuit for my welder now and a standup compressor's footprint is not really that much bigger than what I've got now so an upgrade may be doable. At the very least I want to upgrade to 1/2" lines and maybe add a 10 gallon tank in parallel.
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May 8, 2015 17:28
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Bruinator posted:I'm using a 5 gallon Makita MAC5200 nailer compressor with 50' of 3/8 line. It claims to output 6.5CFM at 90 psi but I've never measured it and would guess way less, especially with my small diameter line. I set my regulator to deliver 90psi at the gun and can get about 10-15 seconds of what feels like full power before it kicks on which is usually enough to break loose whatever I'm going after. It zips off Subaru axle nuts, suspension stuff, etc with no problem. High flow things like die grinders, cutoff wheels, or blaster are completely out of the question and I've been holding off on getting a plasma cutter since their minimum air requirements are apparently really low compared to what you actually need. The MAC is a good portable, but it sure as hell isn't going to do grinding or sanding. I've got a 5HP 80G, and it has trouble with any decent-length grinding session. Depending on your needs, there are plenty of plasma cutters with built-in compressors. I've got a Cutmaster 42, which doesn't have one, but I've got the shop plumbed with air. Outside, however, I'm still using a cut-off wheel on a grinder or the O/A torch. 
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May 8, 2015 18:37
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Brake bleeders: vaccum kind that pull fluid through the bleeders, or the pressure units that clamp onto the master and push fluid out? It looks like the main two competing ones are the Mityvac 6830 that uses shop air (awesome) and sucks fluid through the bleeders, or the Motive range of pressurizing versions. I've used a little hand pump version that worked okay, but it was just plain hose that slipped over the bleeder and it leaked suction badly. It looks like the Mityvac kit has fancier looking adapters for the bleeder, and it wouldn't be all that hard to just always pick up a couple extra bleeder screws to replace rusty ones whenever I've got to use it. The Motive sounds like sort of a pain in the dick on some cars trying to get the reservoir to pressurize and hold it. e: I'm sort of talking myself into the Mityvac partially because it's cheaper and it'll also suck up more than just brake fluid if you want.
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May 8, 2015 20:36
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Hypnolobster posted:Brake bleeders: vaccum kind that pull fluid through the bleeders, or the pressure units that clamp onto the master and push fluid out? I hate my Mityvac for brake bleeding. Seems like its near impossible to get it to fully seal around the bleed nipple, so you end up sucking in air from there and its hard to tell if the actual brake fluid in the system has no more air. I love my Motive unit. The only time its a pain in the rear end is when I need to use one of the universal kits. For most applications where Motive doesn't have a proper adapter, I've had luck finding one from another company on Summit that I could rig up to with with my Motive unit for little effort.
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May 8, 2015 20:48
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I've heard that people have good success getting a junkyard master cylinder cap, then drilling it and installing the proper fitting. Probably works a lot better than the stupid universal topper thing they'll want you to use.
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May 8, 2015 20:51
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Raluek posted:I've heard that people have good success getting a junkyard master cylinder cap, then drilling it and installing the proper fitting. Probably works a lot better than the stupid universal topper thing they'll want you to use. I tried doing exactly this with a junkyard cap in great shape and I couldn't get an airtight seal. Couldn't build any pressure.
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May 8, 2015 21:24
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While we're on the topic... I have a motive power bleeder and I've used it once so far. How fast should the fluid come out when you open the bleeder? It was much slower than I would have expected, especially compared to the velocity which the fluid comes out using an assistant to press the brake pedal.
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May 8, 2015 21:26
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Raluek posted:I've heard that people have good success getting a junkyard master cylinder cap, then drilling it and installing the proper fitting. Probably works a lot better than the stupid universal topper thing they'll want you to use. This tends to work well if the OEM cap is screw on, or something. The push on ones that Toyota uses for some stupid reason do not work well (or at all) when converted like this. Instead, you generally need something that expands in the opening to create a seal (and also has a housing to expand against, so that the plastic doesn't crack). The universal topper thing kinda works in this application.
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May 8, 2015 23:05
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I used the same junkyard cap trick to bleed my brakes and clutch on my old Miata. It worked great for me. I did have to epoxy the vent hole shut on the clutch master cap though. I used a garden sprayer with 20ft of hose on it. That allowed me to reach all 4 corners of the car easily.
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May 9, 2015 00:33
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Found this wrench on the road a couple years ago, it had obviously been there a while and was seized solid. About a year of sitting forgotten at the back of the shelf in ATF got the mechanism moving enough to work it out with a hammer, but it was still hella ugly. hit it with a brass cup and a little bit of acid and got it clean. It was missing a lot of chrome, so was bound to rust again, so i hit it with some self-etch and the brightest paint i had.  Free tools are the best tools. Especially free hunnert dollar tools.
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May 9, 2015 01:38
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sbyers77 posted:While we're on the topic... I have a motive power bleeder and I've used it once so far. How fast should the fluid come out when you open the bleeder? Increase pressure or you might have a partially blocked bleeder.
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May 9, 2015 05:39
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