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mulligan posted:I took it to a Subaru shop who said this happens because the transmission disks get stuck, and that affects the AWD systems, he said the only cure is to rebuild the transmission or replace it. Maybe get a second opinion before you go around buying another gearbox? I wouldn't be surprised if you can just keep your entire gearbox and have the centre diff/transfer case torn down and rebuilt at a lower price. Of course, if you haven't changed your transmission fluid in awhile that'd be a good first step.
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Dec 11, 2011 03:57
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So back when I was got a new head gasket put on (ugh), I had a shop install an IPR TMIC on my 2005 LGT. After a week or so, I noticed that the intercooler to throttle body hose was leaking. I tried taking the rubber ends off the stock TB hose as I read over at legacygt.com, and put it back together. I just couldn't get the stock TB hose to fit though; everytime I tried to get everything lined up, either the TB hose came off, or I couldn't get the intercooler lined up with the turbo. Tried ordering an AVO TB hose, with some t-bolt clamps but couldn't get that to fit either. So this week I took it back to the same shop and had them try, with explicit mention that I didn't want this to happen again. They ended up putting on a new stock TB hose. But when I got back home and checked it had already slipped half way off on the TB side  I've done a ton of reading over at LGT forums; some people say the stock TB hose with rubber ends taken off + better clamps is fine. Others swear by the AVO hose. Anyone have any recommendations?
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Dec 11, 2011 04:21
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law abiding rapist posted:Hold up, I think we'd all like to know more about this one. I have a red Lancia Delta Integrale, I've been meaning to make a thread about it, but I have no time. On regards to the oil, I've owned the car since 2009, I have never changed the trans oil, but the mechanics who have checked it said it looked ok, the people who diagnosed the trans also said and I quote: "The oil looks acceptable". I never questioned them for some reason. I'd hate to rebuild the transmission for no reason, I'm buying a nice Legacy GT with like 50K miles, but I cant sell the B4 untill I get it fixed. So is there a possibility that changing the trans oil sorts out the issue? ALSO, the mechanic checked the center diff and its OK.
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Dec 11, 2011 14:41
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Seat Safety Switch posted:This sounds sort of like it might be the viscous plates in the centre differential, which can be serviced independent of the rest of the transmission, at least on stick shift cars. Is an 4EATSS, so is the Subaru gearbox exclusive to the Legacy B4, I haven't changed the oil since I've owned the car, I'll give it a shot. Also, the mechanic said the diffs are fine.
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Dec 11, 2011 14:44
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Take the rubber ends off, don't push the hose all the way down onto the throttle body or it won't connect to the IC side. There's also a white dot on the IC end of the hose that needs to be rotated until it's facing up. Use hairspray on the ends of the hose and make sure the clamps are tight as hell. While you have the IC off the car, zip tie the bottom end of the vacuum line from the BPV (and zip tie the other end when you get everything back together).Sabotaged posted:So back when I was got a new head gasket put on (ugh), I had a shop install an IPR TMIC on my 2005 LGT. After a week or so, I noticed that the intercooler to throttle body hose was leaking. I tried taking the rubber ends off the stock TB hose as I read over at legacygt.com, and put it back together. I just couldn't get the stock TB hose to fit though; everytime I tried to get everything lined up, either the TB hose came off, or I couldn't get the intercooler lined up with the turbo. Tried ordering an AVO TB hose, with some t-bolt clamps but couldn't get that to fit either. blargle fucked around with this message at 16:45 on Dec 11, 2011 |
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Dec 11, 2011 16:42
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mulligan posted:
As a former Lancia owner, you have my deepest sympathies - the headgasket will almost certainly explode next week. Firebomb the car while you can
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Dec 11, 2011 23:55
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Cat Terrist posted:As a former Lancia owner, you have my deepest sympathies - the headgasket will almost certainly explode next week. Firebomb the car while you can it's running full boost, is not overheating, is not shorting out, I have a feeling something is going to go wrong, but I'm enjoying it so far. She WILL bite me and hard, but I rely on moving around a lot so I can't just taxi everywhere. I need this Legacy sold so I can buy a 2006 model. On regards to this gearbox issue, can more Subaru die hards (CT, Jamal, ect) weight in on the situation? What do you guys recommend, I dont want to depend on the Lancia 
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Dec 12, 2011 03:56
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mulligan posted:On regards to this gearbox issue, can more Subaru die hards (CT, Jamal, ect) weight in on the situation?
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Dec 12, 2011 05:26
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jamal posted:I would check out all the drivetrain mounts first. if the transmission isn't slipping, failing to shift, etc than it doesn't seem like an internal transmission issue. The things that I see fail on the autos is reverse stops working, the bearings go out and make very loud noises when the car is driving, and the center diff stops working. I *THNIK* I feel it slip sometimes when going from 3rd to 1st (after the car is stopped the whole thing shudders very slightly), the mechanic never mentioned the mounts, it never fails the shift. When the car is cold and just turned on, the shifts are seamless and the car feels solid. Where would the drivetrain mounts be? (Diff mounts are in perfect condition) How do I know if the center diff is working? What would be the symptoms? Thanks!
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Dec 12, 2011 19:12
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Anybody got a JDM '02ish WRX ECU ROM handy? I need to copy the warm up enrichment tables to help my now TGV-less bugeye to quit struggling in cold mornings. I already fixed a good bit of it by finding some of the values on nasioc but I need the rest...
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Dec 12, 2011 21:00
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Any recommendations for shock/strut replacements for an 02 wrx wagon? It's really just my DD so I'm not really going to see the benefit of performance replacements. That said, anything wrong with monroe/napa?
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Dec 12, 2011 21:12
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kyb gr2s are the standard oem replacement. I'd use those at the minimum.mulligan posted:I *THNIK* I feel it slip sometimes when going from 3rd to 1st (after the car is stopped the whole thing shudders very slightly), the mechanic never mentioned the mounts, it never fails the shift. There are two motor mounts on each side of the oil pan that attaches it to the front crossmember, a transmission mount near the rear of the transmission, and a pitch stop mount that attaches the top of the motor/trans to the firewall. On a 99 none of those are going to be in good shape. The motor/pitch stop from any other subaru will work and you can get that used for cheap on forums. Or you could upgrade to Subaru group N parts for around $300. For the center diff you can do tight figure-8s in a parking lot. it should be fairly smooth, and then you should notice the awd with more throttle. jamal fucked around with this message at 21:22 on Dec 12, 2011 |
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Dec 12, 2011 21:15
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Blaise posted:Anybody got a JDM '02ish WRX ECU ROM handy? I need to copy the warm up enrichment tables to help my now TGV-less bugeye to quit struggling in cold mornings. I already fixed a good bit of it by finding some of the values on nasioc but I need the rest... Try romraider.com, they have maps for drat near anything
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Dec 13, 2011 00:01
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Likely a stupid question here: I'm currently running without an intercooler shroud on my massive TMIC (Jamal knows the one, it's essentially the same TMIC that process west sells: http://www.processwest.com.au/website/img_products/wrx_tmic_2_th.jpg). Does anyone know of any testing that has been done with a similar intercooler to test the intake temperatures with and without the shroud? aka should I spend the $220 to get that shroud? Amandyke fucked around with this message at 05:18 on Dec 13, 2011 |
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Dec 13, 2011 04:49
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To fix my clutch I bought a used lightweight exedy flywheel, exedy stage 1 and cusco trans mount off of nasioc. Hopefully he will get it out to me soon. Is there anything I should do at the same time as a clutch/flywheel replacement?
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Dec 13, 2011 05:46
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Lord Gaga posted:To fix my clutch I bought a used lightweight exedy flywheel, exedy stage 1 and cusco trans mount off of nasioc. Hopefully he will get it out to me soon. If there's a snout protector kit for the turbo 5-speeds (I know there is for the NA) it might be worth throwing it on and running an oversize throwout bearing to avoid wearing the input shaft, depending on how paranoid you are and how much you really want a 6-speed. edit: Something like this, though I've never installed it myself. I'm curious how much wear they actually experience (I'm guilty of clutching in at red lights too often so I'm thinking about it myself depending on how much damage I see when I do the clutch). Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 07:07 on Dec 13, 2011 |
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Dec 13, 2011 07:01
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idle air control valve is going out on my GL. I believe this is the case because I get very low idle when the engine is cold- I read somewhere if you yank the plug from the IACV the RPMs should drop, otherwise it is not operating and this is what happened on mine. My question- is this a part I an repair or should I just order a new one? (salvage parts are right out, I think I have the only GL running or otherwise in west texas)
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Dec 13, 2011 12:03
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It can be cleaned. Here's a guide to doing so on recent-era Subarus, but the idea is the same: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=781242
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Dec 13, 2011 14:40
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jamal posted:kyb gr2s are the standard oem replacement. I'd use those at the minimum. Ok, choices time. RockAuto has KYB-GR-2's for $107 each for the fronts and $110 for the rears. Import Image has the Tokico HP Sport Front Shocks (blues) for $238 for the front set. (they said it will fit, don't need special ones for the front for sedan vs wagon.) So for a $25ish difference I could switch to the Tokico Blues, is there an advantage to switch?
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Dec 13, 2011 16:15
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I'm assuming you bought a clutch kit and have a new release bearing, etc? Might not be a bad idea to replace those if not - they're cheap. It is supposed to be a clutch kit with flywheel but used. Should be shipping to me today. I plan on replacing any not like new bearings or any wear parts not included with this purchase.
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Dec 13, 2011 20:25
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Amandyke posted:Likely a stupid question here: Which TMIC do you have? I've heard about a newer Chinese Process West knockoff. So jamal or anyone else who cares to chime in, I need recommendations on a new TMIC. Both my endtanks are leaking, and I'm only Stage 1. I'm sick of dealing with it, and I don't really want to shell out for someone's old stock TMIC that will probably leak. My Subaru guy loves the Process West, but it's pricey as hell. I've heard of a PW knockoff that I mentioned up there, but I haven't heard any long-term reliability stories out of it. I need something that's not going to leak and that won't have issues with hoses. The highest power I'm planning on putting down is around Cobb Stage 2. Any recommendations? I'm also trying to decide what I'm going to do over the next 20,000 miles. I've got 80k on the car right now, and I intend to keep it until Jesus comes back. I'm going to do the water pump and timing belt around 90k. From everything I've read and what my mechanic says, the turbos generally start to go around 100k. I'm thinking about replacing the turbo when I do the belt/pump. I'm not interested in putting down gobs of power; I'd like to stick close to stock driveability and mileage. Should I just get another VF40? What other options are out there without getting into huge-rear end crazyshit turbos? Is this all dumb and I should forget about doing the turbo preventatively?
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Dec 13, 2011 21:04
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I'm liking my avo tmic on my lgt. Well built, seems to fit (though it needed a small amount of adjustment on the initial install). Plus it fits under the engine cover, which is good as the engine cover does help airflow. It isn't cheap though. In any event, make sure you deal with the t junction under the intercooler. If you have enough boost to pop the ic, that will pop once that issue is fixed. Really annoying. --- My understanding is that you don't need to replace the turbo before it blows. All this talk of turbos taking out the engine come from people who have a turbo screaming at them for 5000mi and keep driving until poo poo seizes. I'd get it towed when you think you have turbo failure. I could be very wrong though nm fucked around with this message at 21:29 on Dec 13, 2011 |
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Dec 13, 2011 21:27
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nm posted:
The only exploding turbo I've been sat on top of developed within about 5 miles from start of a quiet, unusual ticking noise to zero boost. It didn't dump fluid and shrapnel everywhere, but on the strength of that it's not necessarily the case that you will get any warning.
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Dec 13, 2011 21:57
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toplitzin posted:Ok, choices time. Stupid follow up, will the Tokico's fit on the rear too?
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Dec 13, 2011 22:47
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Sedan struts fit on a wagon, but you lose about a degree of camber all the way around. This is bad if you go around corners ever. Perrin makes a pretty good IC: http://www.perrinperformance.com/subaru/wrx-2008-only/top-mount-intercooler ETS needs to come out with one for the 08+ because they make awesome cores. Knockoffs generally do a terrible job of cooling airflow because of the cheap construction and low fin density. And Blouch makes a couple of really good turbos, like this one: http://www.bptstore.com/Subaru-Legacy-GT-380XT-Turbocharger_p_113.html
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Dec 13, 2011 23:26
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ETS has their 08+ STI IC out, but nothing for the WRX/LGT yet
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Dec 13, 2011 23:51
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jamal posted:Sedan struts fit on a wagon, but you lose about a degree of camber all the way around. This is bad if you go around corners ever. So if i buy the tokico's, i should buy camber bolts too? Sounds like I'm better off sticking with the OEM replacement, thanks for the advice Jamal.
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Dec 13, 2011 23:59
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toplitzin posted:So if i buy the tokico's, i should buy camber bolts too?
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Dec 14, 2011 00:03
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Seat Safety Switch posted:You could probably cut up your existing strut bodies and put something like a Koni Yellow insert in. http://www.importimageracing.com/eibach-camber-bolts-for-02-07-wrx-sti.html Those will give 1.75 degree +/- or are they a bad idea?
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Dec 14, 2011 00:10
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yes, they'll work. Made by SPC, so if you went to napa and asked for bolts you'd get the same thing. I'm in the same boat with sti struts on my legacy, which has the same track as a wagon. I have camber bolts in the rear and it gets me to -1.1 maxed out, which is fine. Up front I was a little hesitant to use a smaller bolt (although it's really not an issue- the ones I see slip are generally installed wrong), so I milled the strut and drilled out the upright to use a second OEM bolt, which brought me from a max of -0.7 to -1.3, which was also fine, but kind of a waste of time. I ended up wanting more camber and just put the stock lower bolts back in and slotted the holes so now I can hit -3 degrees if I want. One thing I noticed though is that the lower clevis deal on the sedan struts sticks out farther because of the wider track. You can fix it with the bolts but the strut and upright don't exactly want to be in that position and it seems to put a little bit of a bending force on the strut.
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Dec 14, 2011 00:24
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jamal posted:yes, they'll work. Made by SPC, so if you went to napa and asked for bolts you'd get the same thing. I'm in the same boat with sti struts on my legacy, which has the same track as a wagon. I have camber bolts in the rear and it gets me to -1.1 maxed out, which is fine. Up front I was a little hesitant to use a smaller bolt (although it's really not an issue- the ones I see slip are generally installed wrong), so I milled the strut and drilled out the upright to use a second OEM bolt, which brought me from a max of -0.7 to -1.3, which was also fine, but kind of a waste of time. I ended up wanting more camber and just put the stock lower bolts back in and slotted the holes so now I can hit -3 degrees if I want. So, besides price, what's the difference between the four camber solutions listed here: http://www.importimageracing.com/suspension/camber-arms/shopby/subaru/wrx/2002/price-0.00,60.00.html
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Dec 14, 2011 00:36
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Does this sound like a clutch slave cylinder, or master cylinder issue? (2002 Impreza 2.5 TS) When I push the clutch pedal in at a stop and put the transmission into 3rd, it does the usual notch. Then, while keeping the clutch pedal in, if I put back into neutral and then back into the same gear, sometimes it stays notchy, as if the clutch isn't fully working. Sometimes I'll push the pedal in and it'll be smooth for 5 seconds and then slowly get notchy again. Seems like some fluid is leaking past a seal somewhere. No leaks, just bled the system. When it's notchy (still at a stop) in and out of gear (doesn't matter what gear), and I turn the engine off, it immediately becomes smooth. So does this sound like a slave cyl, or master cyl issue? I should note that the clutch is probably near the end of its life, as the engagement is quite high and I'm pretty sure it hasn't been changed in the 200,000 KM's its been driven. Still, that shouldn't be the issue right?
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Dec 14, 2011 00:41
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toplitzin posted:So, besides price, what's the difference between the four camber solutions listed here: the eibach and whiteline are the exact same bolt the H&Rs don't use anything to fill the gap between the shank of the bolt and the strut clevis (i.e. the tab on the washer) so I don't particularly like them. In fact, on another forum someone just posted about how their h&r bolt slipped at a track day. I do like the look of the GTspec bolts. "tabbed washer" is much nicer and looks easier to set in place. But the eibachs are only $20 and when set max negative are going to do the same thing. Plus they have little teeth to dig into the strut and stay in place. jamal fucked around with this message at 00:59 on Dec 14, 2011 |
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Dec 14, 2011 00:52
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Bud Manstrong posted:Which TMIC do you have? I've heard about a newer Chinese Process West knockoff. I deeply regret getting a Spearco over a Process West - the shop I trusted was a little off about the fitment. There's now a good 4 inch gap between the end of the IC and the end of the hood scoop's intake, since the Spearco wasn't made for the 08+ STi's, as it turns out... Granted, they were nice enough to custom weld some high quality new mounts for it and such. Go with the PW or the ETS, they'll both be very high quality intercoolers, and the drop in intake temperature you'll get will be very much worth it. If you're concerned about heat, you also might try heat-taping your heatshield and intercooler (maybe get a turbo blanket). Heat reflecting tape isn't too expensive (get 95%+ reflectivity stuff), and it will keep intake temperatures a lot cooler if you go over things like your y-pipe, intercooler, intake, etc. Also, anyone think it might be a good idea to use that space I now have as a way to make a real cold air intake? I was thinking of a zany setup using the stock intake ram, some sort of fabricated ram at the right hand fog light cover (no fog lights installed), merging at the intake. I would make a cowl merging at the opening of the hood scoop, and then heading to the end of the hood, so the hood scoop would generate a vacuum in the intake chamber to move air. MSpaint diagram shown below:  Red circle represents the air filter/inlet tube.
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Dec 14, 2011 02:36
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BobTheFerret posted:
You would need to have the air coming in end into the intake for any kind of ram effect to work. Otherwise you're just creating a low pressure zone at the intake tube due to the high speed air passing over it. That would likely decrease the amount of air going into the intake, etc etc.
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Dec 14, 2011 06:15
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I guess to clarify, I'm less concerned with the ram air effect than access for cool air (unless it actually could make a large difference? I was under the impression the effect is pretty weak, compared to what sort of pressure increase the turbo makes).
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Dec 14, 2011 06:45
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Does anyone know what the spring rates are for a standard 06 WRX?
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Dec 14, 2011 11:50
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Ugggg. Does anyone know anywhere else cheaper to buy the KYB-GR2 shocks? Rockauto is roughly 100 each corner. If I can save a few more bucks, spending less than $400 would be nice.
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Dec 14, 2011 14:13
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I love Josh over at Import Image Racing, I just asked about a special order since they don't carry the KYB-GR2's. They are doin a special order for all four for the wagon for $457 out the door, which beats RockAuto by $2. So thanks again to those guys, and my hearty recommendation for using them.
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Dec 14, 2011 17:42
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Rock Auto has a 5% coupon code if you google
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Dec 14, 2011 18:07
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