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Luminaflare
Sep 23, 2010

No one man
should have all that
POWER BEYOND MEASURE


CapnBry posted:

Prusa 3D is really innovating solutions but I am definitely worried that some of their great new features might run into patent problems. Not because they've copied using a optical sensor to assist with a variety of possible filament issues, but because Stratasys or someone probably has a patent on "a device which detects when a machine is out of material" or something insanely broad like that. I've strapped an old high DPI gaming mouse to a filament chamber with a shitload of blue painters tape and then wrote a quick app to read /dev/input and I can tell you the results are pretty great as long as the filament is constrained tightly against the mouse surface. I ran into the problem that the natural curve of the filament wanted to jam up in the fixture or at least constrain it to the point the extruder would start to skip. That wouldn't be a problem where Prusa has placed it in the extruder where the filament is already highly constrained. Looking forward to more great things from that idea.

I am a bit concerned about magnets holding down the print surface. When ABS prints try to warp but they are stuck to the bed securely, they produce quite a bit of force even though they are just sitting there. When I did experiments with thin laminated tempered glass, prints could easily pull the edges of the print surface up so the whole thing started to turn into a bowl shape. Trying to constrain the glass at just the corners with binder clips, there were still places where the glass could contort and create hills and unevenness in the build surface, much more than would be acceptable for trying to put a layer down on. It was pretty obvious with the glass because the reflections in it started to look all distorted, but that would not be obvious on a matte black surface.

It's a spring steel build plate though. It's designed to be able to flex without warping.

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Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

Luminaflare posted:

able to flex without warping.

What does this mean

Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!
It means after flexing it will return to a flat shape instead of permanently being in the warped shape after flexing.

mewse
May 2, 2006

I think you guys are talking past each other. The problem CapnBry is talking about is not having a flat bottom on prints due to the surface being pulled up, the response to it is "but the surface can bend without warping permanently"

The Eyes Have It
Feb 10, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums

biracial bear for uncut posted:

The Mini Delta is alive!



:allears: I really do like deltas, I was ready to throw money at one but they were USA only.


Jestery posted:

Hey guys I recently got my e3d clone and 0.8 nozzle up and running after a few late nights.


Here is a benchy printed at 0.6 does anyone have any obvious things I'm missing that will improve quality?

Alternatively if someone could post a pic of their best benchy at 0.6 layer height I can compare and shoot for that

Yeah 0.6mm layer height is pretty fat, especially for a small model like that it'll be messier. Print a larger model at 0.6 or reduce the layer height for your benchy and you should see some improvement.

When I moved to a 0.8mm I was kind of surprised at all the little things that needed tweaking or changing, even if they were just my expectations. It's a different beast.

Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!

Mister Sinewave posted:

:allears: I really do like deltas, I was ready to throw money at one but they were USA only.

Not sure if it helps you, but Monoprice is expanding into Europe soon.

http://www.prnewswire.com/news-releases/monoprice-announces-expansion-into-europe-300512634.html

Jestery
Aug 2, 2016


Not a Dickman, just a shape

Mister Sinewave posted:




Yeah 0.6mm layer height is pretty fat, especially for a small model like that it'll be messier. Print a larger model at 0.6 or reduce the layer height for your benchy and you should see some improvement.

When I moved to a 0.8mm I was kind of surprised at all the little things that needed tweaking or changing, even if they were just my expectations. It's a different beast.

Yeah the 0.4 layer was the ticket, still prints super quick too which was my main worry.

I swear I have had my machine apart 10 times but it has given me purpose and I am being productive atleast

I have had too many late nights loving around with my machine but I feel I am coming to the end of the hardware process.

Im printing off a part cooler as part of a too elaborate cooling system

Edit: System and improved benchy.



I am happy to tinker as part of the printing process now.

Jestery fucked around with this message at 20:08 on Sep 29, 2017

tuyop
Sep 15, 2006

Every second that we're not growing BASIL is a second wasted

Fun Shoe

biracial bear for uncut posted:

It might be worth double-checking the non-printing speed value in Cura. On another printer I had *cough Robo3D R1 cough* if the non-printing speed was higher than 80mm/s the carriage/Bed momentum would overpower the steppers resulting in a shift if it was moving across a large enough distance (say, any rapid move longer than 30mm).

The other option would be to consider adding some active cooling wherever the electronics are housed on your machine, blowing air across the heatsinks on your stepper drivers (you do have heatsinks on your stepper drivers, right?).

Alternatively, slow things down to a true crawl and be more patient when printing things. Also double check the tension on your axis belts and make sure they're taut.

It's an original Mk2S so I think the electronics are solid. I ended up dropping the speed on this model from 55mm/s to 45mm/s and the travel from 120 to 80 and the banding basically disappeared.

The strange thing is that the calibration cube I printed had none of the issues. Must just be the geometry of this model, eh?

Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!

tuyop posted:

It's an original Mk2S so I think the electronics are solid. I ended up dropping the speed on this model from 55mm/s to 45mm/s and the travel from 120 to 80 and the banding basically disappeared.

The strange thing is that the calibration cube I printed had none of the issues. Must just be the geometry of this model, eh?

Yeah, I've noticed that blocky/mechanical models tend to print a lot more smoothly than curvy/artistic models.

Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!
A glimpse into what youtube 3d printing people are up to while we play with our toys.

https://twitter.com/toms3dp/status/913830830103044096

CapnBry
Jul 15, 2002

I got this goin'
Grimey Drawer

mewse posted:

I think you guys are talking past each other. The problem CapnBry is talking about is not having a flat bottom on prints due to the surface being pulled up, the response to it is "but the surface can bend without warping permanently"
Yeah this guy gets it! If it is a thin flexible build sheet, then it will do everything it can to pucker itself up while you're printing on it. The print will be warped because the plate didn't hold it down flat through the printing process. Sure it can spring back to flat for the next print but you're getting warped prints.

I've even used thin PEI attached with 467MP (like 468MP but half the thickness of sticky stuff on it) and had ABS prints pull up that while printing in an 50C enclosure. It lead me to believe that trying to use magnets is right out because the warping force is way higher than some small magnets would hold. I'd love it though if I could just slip the plate off at the end of a print and flex it to remove the print. That is like the best of all worlds because you won't gouge up the bed surface with razors and scrapers to get parts off.

vibur
Apr 23, 2004
Any recommendations for a translucent filament? I'm looking to do a little LED diffusion.

mewse
May 2, 2006

biracial bear for uncut posted:

A glimpse into what youtube 3d printing people are up to while we play with our toys.

https://twitter.com/toms3dp/status/913830830103044096

This is what my Patreon dollars go towards? I'm loving pissed and nothing but another free Prusa will placate my anger

BMan
Oct 31, 2015

KNIIIIIIFE
EEEEEYYYYE
ATTAAAACK


vibur posted:

Any recommendations for a translucent filament? I'm looking to do a little LED diffusion.

Natural PETG.

Revol
Aug 1, 2003

EHCIARF EMERC...
EHCIARF EMERC...
I just published the comic book holder I've been working on.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2559816

As I said earlier, I recently changed the design from a full enclosure, essentially a custom-sized magazine file, to something much smaller and compact. These comics will be inbetween other books on the bookshelf, so an enclosure was not necessary. What a came up with was what I call the Comic Backstrip. The name is fitting; the backstrip is the design of a books spine, that has the title and author. I believe that is all I really need to get my single-issue comic collections onto my bookshelf. It is much faster to print, and uses about 1/5th the material of the previous design.



These aren't designed to stand on their own, and they often won't. I think I was able to get this shot because the size of the backstrip I printed for Secret Wars was a really tight fit.

It's disappointing, but I can't use my OpenSCAD script with Thingiverse's customizer. It doesn't work with the import command. So to use this, you'd have to download the SCAD and the three pieces to your own computer.

Now that I'm finished with the design (for now I guess?), it's time to print a poo poo load of these things. I've got over 50 more I need to make, ranging in sizes of 6mm (3 issues of Seaguy) to 150mm (73 issues of Batgirl).

Kea
Oct 5, 2007

Revol posted:

I just published the comic book holder I've been working on.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2559816

As I said earlier, I recently changed the design from a full enclosure, essentially a custom-sized magazine file, to something much smaller and compact. These comics will be inbetween other books on the bookshelf, so an enclosure was not necessary. What a came up with was what I call the Comic Backstrip. The name is fitting; the backstrip is the design of a books spine, that has the title and author. I believe that is all I really need to get my single-issue comic collections onto my bookshelf. It is much faster to print, and uses about 1/5th the material of the previous design.



These aren't designed to stand on their own, and they often won't. I think I was able to get this shot because the size of the backstrip I printed for Secret Wars was a really tight fit.

It's disappointing, but I can't use my OpenSCAD script with Thingiverse's customizer. It doesn't work with the import command. So to use this, you'd have to download the SCAD and the three pieces to your own computer.

Now that I'm finished with the design (for now I guess?), it's time to print a poo poo load of these things. I've got over 50 more I need to make, ranging in sizes of 6mm (3 issues of Seaguy) to 150mm (73 issues of Batgirl).

Have you considered two arms and a back on it, that way you could grab the front and pull it out for better acces?

Revol
Aug 1, 2003

EHCIARF EMERC...
EHCIARF EMERC...

Kea posted:

Have you considered two arms and a back on it, that way you could grab the front and pull it out for better acces?

Yeah, but I have doubts over the benefits, with the obvious drawback of needing more material. As far as access, I just need to pull on the books themselves, not the backstrip. What concerns me more is having the backstrip resting correctly on the bookshelf. As it is now, it can get on a bit of a lean depending on influence from other books on the shelf.

EVIL Gibson
Mar 23, 2001

Internet of Things is just someone else's computer that people can't help attaching cameras and door locks to!
:vapes:
Switchblade Switcharoo
Got a weird error where I have a hot cold extrude
code:
READ: ok T:224.7 /220.0 B:91.7 /90.0 T0:224.7 /220.0 @:0 B@:0
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X88.539 Y117.563 E3.1209
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X91.108 Y117.563 E3.3516
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X92.003 Y119.113 E3.5124
READ: ok
[short time later]
SENT: G1 X93.846 Y119.113 E3.6779
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X94.296 Y119.563 E3.7350
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X92.003 Y119.563 E3.9408
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X91.108 Y121.113 E4.1016
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X88.793 Y121.113 E4.3095
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X88.192 Y120.511 E4.3859
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X87.644 Y119.563 E4.4842
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X87.244 Y119.563 E4.5202
SENT: G92 E0
READ: ok
SENT: G1 E-1.2000 F2400
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X94.951 Y120.219 F1200
READ: ok
SENT: G1 E0.0000 F2400
READ: ok
SENT: G92 E0
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X95.467 Y121.113 E0.0927 F1800
READ: ok
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X95.844 Y121.113 E0.1265
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X96.294 Y121.563 E0.1836
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X95.467 Y121.563 E0.2579
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X94.572 Y123.113 E0.4186
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X92.003 Y123.113 E0.6493
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X91.108 Y121.563 E0.8100
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X89.243 Y121.563 E0.9776
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X91.724 Y124.046 E1.2929
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X92.003 Y123.563 E1.3430
cold extrusion prevented
cold extrusion prevented
cold extrusion prevented
cold extrusion prevented
[print shuts off]
Cold extrusion is the considered the DANGEROUS_EXTRUDE or whatever in Marlin right? If it goes below (in my config.h file) 170C it should throw cold extrustion.

I was sitting right next to it and it was still at 224, not MINTEMP or MAXTEMP, but cold extrusion prevented in the logs above.

Is my thermistor just sitting the bed? I have auto tuned the PID several times and it looks like it held the temp for about 2 hours until it though 242 was cold.

Just confused and I will probably throw another therm into this e3d.

important: as a side note the temp shows 224/220 which is above the normal threshold range of 3 degrees C. I was troubleshooting the issue which I was just able to catch tonight by turning up the threshold to ~10 degress.

Actually now that I think about it, WHY is it 220? I set the ABS temp to 230!


looking at more previous temp reports and the extruder temp is all over the place. onto replacing the therm.

EVIL Gibson fucked around with this message at 05:18 on Sep 30, 2017

Revol
Aug 1, 2003

EHCIARF EMERC...
EHCIARF EMERC...
9 months in, I've already had to replace my E3D thermistor once. Those things seem to be more fragile than I'd expect.

Do you use Octoprint? I love its graphical representation of temperature history. Really easy way to see if you're having issues there.

EVIL Gibson
Mar 23, 2001

Internet of Things is just someone else's computer that people can't help attaching cameras and door locks to!
:vapes:
Switchblade Switcharoo

Revol posted:

9 months in, I've already had to replace my E3D thermistor once. Those things seem to be more fragile than I'd expect.

Do you use Octoprint? I love its graphical representation of temperature history. Really easy way to see if you're having issues there.

I had it running before the i3v -> pegasus upgrade. Making the mounts that pop into the aluminum rails so it can sit next to the board, but yah the temperature tracking is great.

Revol
Aug 1, 2003

EHCIARF EMERC...
EHCIARF EMERC...

EVIL Gibson posted:

I had it running before the i3v -> pegasus upgrade. Making the mounts that pop into the aluminum rails so it can sit next to the board, but yah the temperature tracking is great.

Can you share the link for that mount? I used one that I screwed into the nightstand my printer lives on, but it broke, so now my Pi is living free in the wind.

EVIL Gibson
Mar 23, 2001

Internet of Things is just someone else's computer that people can't help attaching cameras and door locks to!
:vapes:
Switchblade Switcharoo

Revol posted:

Can you share the link for that mount? I used one that I screwed into the nightstand my printer lives on, but it broke, so now my Pi is living free in the wind.

To be honest, it was a quick job and the infill in the middle will go loving weird midway because of going between MeshMixer and my other editting tools. The weight of the Pi shouldn't pull it down even it's only supported by two points on one side, but I put it on the corner so it's supported by three of these mounts. If it's not holding as good either more infill or a slight increase to XYZ scale should fix it.



You can either put a nylon or normal m3 nut in the bottom with pliers

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B5Yq8irnGv5nWFV4dFRDbE9lR1E

EVIL Gibson fucked around with this message at 17:33 on Sep 30, 2017

Revol
Aug 1, 2003

EHCIARF EMERC...
EHCIARF EMERC...
Interesting, I'll have to look into that!

edit: I think this is pretty cool. I just made a batch file to make generating my backstrip models even easier. It asks for the input of size, and then spits out the STL in that size, with the size included in the filename (this was why I started on this in the first place). Took me almost two hours, quotes in Windows batches are such a pain.

code:
@echo off
set /p Input=Width: 
"C:\Program Files\OpenSCAD\openscad.com" -o "Comic Backstrip %Input%mm.stl" -D "size = %Input%" "Comic Backstrip.scad"

Revol fucked around with this message at 20:51 on Sep 30, 2017

BMan
Oct 31, 2015

KNIIIIIIFE
EEEEEYYYYE
ATTAAAACK


Someone took my empty shopping cart with the coin still in it (actually a metal token), so I made these:

eddiewalker
Apr 28, 2004

Arrrr ye landlubber
Gross meme.

There's several cart clever cart coins on thingiverse. Keychains or removable cheaters.

Bean
Sep 9, 2001
Grabbed that cheap 3D printer pen and some filament. Besides repairing stuff, is there anything really useful I can make with it?

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

Bean posted:

Grabbed that cheap 3D printer pen and some filament. Besides repairing stuff, is there anything really useful I can make with it?

Devon on the MakeAnything channel has been doing patron art on little tiles with 3d pens:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hQ_nWKNh7a8

He's also done more sculpture kind of stuff:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gni-wjXnl3Q
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sr-i6fFYNA8

Jestery
Aug 2, 2016


Not a Dickman, just a shape
I hit go on a print that looks to be a 8-11 hour ordeal this morning.

Definitely the most complex item I have printed off.

I'm just glad I have a large volume printer

I've been babying these trees supports and have been using super glue on misbehaving stalks. I would definitely do them thicker on my next print.

Luminaflare
Sep 23, 2010

No one man
should have all that
POWER BEYOND MEASURE


Jestery posted:

I hit go on a print that looks to be a 8-11 hour ordeal this morning.

Definitely the most complex item I have printed off.

I'm just glad I have a large volume printer

I've been babying these trees supports and have been using super glue on misbehaving stalks. I would definitely do them thicker on my next print.



Hot glue guns and 3D printing pens are great for rescuing supports and failing prints.

Jestery
Aug 2, 2016


Not a Dickman, just a shape

Luminaflare posted:

Hot glue guns and 3D printing pens are great for rescuing supports and failing prints.

Yeah I might invest in one of those pens if I do a lot of this support work, discovering meshmixer was a crazy experience

For what it is worth it printed successfully

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Desk fan guard?

Jestery
Aug 2, 2016


Not a Dickman, just a shape

Similar but for a drone

Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!
Well, it came out mostly well in a 100mm/s PETG test with the usual stringing. Need to figure a way to sort that out.



I can scrape those little bumps off with my fingernail, so I'm not entirely sure what's going on, but at least it isn't hard to remove the strings/bumps.

AlexDeGruven
Jun 29, 2007

Watch me pull my dongle out of this tiny box


I've found that retraction speed offers more than distance with petg for me.

Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!

AlexDeGruven posted:

I've found that retraction speed offers more than distance with petg for me.

What retraction speed are you using? Here is a screencap of the default profile for PETG that was shared with the group on FB.



Also, the option to have retraction/wipe happen simultaneously is checked in the Advanced section.

EDIT:

I just bumped the retraction speed up to 65mm/s and the Wipe Distance up to 5mm and sent a Marvin keychain to the printer. We'll see how that looks.

Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 16:07 on Oct 2, 2017

Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!
Here are the results.


cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Jestery posted:

Similar but for a drone

I forgot we live in the future. :awesomelon:

vibur
Apr 23, 2004

biracial bear for uncut posted:

What retraction speed are you using? Here is a screencap of the default profile for PETG that was shared with the group on FB.
Which group would that be?

Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!

vibur posted:

Which group would that be?

https://www.facebook.com/groups/mpminideltaowners/

The S3D profile I started with is in the Files section of the group, as well as in the Wiki for the printer itself.

https://mpminidelta.com/slicers/s3d

EDIT:

Vase Mode PETG mini rocket (scaled to fit on the Z-build space on the mini delta).



EDIT 2:

Apparently the new thing to do on the FB groups is to post how loud their printer is while running using some decibel meter app for their phone.

Here is mine.

Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 20:54 on Oct 2, 2017

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The Eyes Have It
Feb 10, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums
That print looks great!

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