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As a Corvette and a Jeep guy, I think you did the right thing. What year was the Vette, 79?
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Nov 22, 2013 20:01
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Haha, you did great. Nice trade.
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Nov 22, 2013 20:04
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Godholio posted:As a Corvette and a Jeep guy, I think you did the right thing. What year was the Vette, 79? Yup, '79. I think I drove it a total of 3/4 of a mile. Jonny 290 posted:Haha, you did great. Nice trade. Thanks!
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Nov 22, 2013 20:07
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kastein posted:Ehhh, grabbing a high pinion axle is probably actually worth it. You're socal, right? Hit up one of the Ecology yards on half off day, walk out with a high pinion axle complete for $50 or whatever.
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Nov 22, 2013 22:04
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Krakkles posted:My uncle says the same thing. Are there any years or models I should be looking for that axle off of, or just any HP D30 in an XJ? Aim for a 1999.5 if you can find one (the only difference from the earlier ones is the unit bearings - they're the same as a 2000/2001, so you can use the shafts and bearings preassembled as trail spares) - you can tell them apart because the little flange around the axle nut is the same height as yours, it's much taller from the wheel mounting flange than the older style ones. If you can't find one of those, get one out of any 1995 through 1999. They have the same everything as yours except the unit bearings and rotors, and have the large ujoints like yours. If you can't find one of those, aim for a 1991 through 1994 with ABS and no vacuum disconnect. Same large ujoints, but may or may not have the lovely two piece inner shafts with weaker ujoint yokes. If you can't find one of those... grab any d30 out of any XJ with no vacuum disconnect and a high pinion axle. Ignore all ZJs (cam bolts for LCA adjustment, low pinion axle) YJs (leaf spring housing, way too much work) and TJs (low pinion, cam bolts, etc etc etc.) MJs will work but good luck seeing one of those in the junkyard with 4x4 that isn't a vacuum disconnect axle.
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Nov 22, 2013 22:50
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Voltage gauge on the XJ showed 9 volts (buried on the low side) this morning along with a "check gauges" light. Turned around and went home, shut it down then started it back up again. Gauge still read low, then after revving gently a few times it kicked up to 14 and you could hear the vent fan speed up. Did it again on the way home, except it just held at like 10 for a minute after startup until I revved it up a bit in neutral. New alternator time?
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Nov 23, 2013 00:06
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wilfredmerriweathr posted:Voltage gauge on the XJ showed 9 volts (buried on the low side) this morning along with a "check gauges" light. Turned around and went home, shut it down then started it back up again. Gauge still read low, then after revving gently a few times it kicked up to 14 and you could hear the vent fan speed up. Time to hunt for short-circuits. Carry a fire extinguisher rated for electrical fires too.
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Nov 23, 2013 05:01
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Sounds to me like a loose serpentine belt, but could be a bad field coil or brush in the alternator as well. I doubt it is wiring, but if it is, it's probably a loose ground or positive lead. Also, I have a little too much practice doing late model XJ gas tank swaps. Just did my DD XJ's tank in under 40 minutes, now it's time for a full exhaust system install, except it turns out the donut gasket at the manifold flange went missing, which explains the low fuel economy and it getting even louder than when the muffler fell off. I don't have one on hand, so I may wait till morning... or might just say gently caress it and run without the donut till I get home, been that way for a few weeks so it will last another day right?  At least all the O2 sensors unscrewed nicely instead of stripping the threads. e: sadly can't find the non-meme-texted version of this picture, but this is a friend's jeep in high school. He did actually deliver pizza in it... his friends would call him from the woods while wheeling and request delivery. Dana 60 rear, 44 front, locked/locked, etc etc. 
kastein fucked around with this message at 06:09 on Nov 23, 2013 |
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Nov 23, 2013 06:06
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kastein posted:Sounds to me like a loose serpentine belt, but could be a bad field coil or brush in the alternator as well. Had a shop replace the serpentine belt when I bought it, it doesn't make any squealing noises but that was my first thought too. EDIT: the problem seems to happen about 50% of the time that I drive the jeep in cold weather. If it starts up and shows under 14 volts, I can be pretty sure that it'll drop to nothing within a few seconds of revving/driving now. But when I just shut it off and then restart it, it goes to 14 and stays. Actual alternator issue, or random electrical fault? Mechanic thought it might be a sticking brush but told me to wait for it to happen a few more times. I'm guessing it's the alternator brushes being worn out or something. It definitely coincides with cold weather. wilfredmerriweathr fucked around with this message at 15:44 on Nov 24, 2013 |
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Nov 23, 2013 14:01
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I'm looking to purchase a used Jeep Wrangler as a fun vehicle. I'd like to spend up to $10K. Is it possible to get a reasonable Jeep in good condition in this price range, potentially in the early 00's year model range? All the dealer posted vehicles around here seem to be torn up rusted and ratty or more expensive. Keep hoping to wait for a good one to come available but not sure if this is going to happen or maybe it's a bad time of year for used 4x4 vehicle prices.
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Nov 25, 2013 10:10
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For $10k see if you can find a 1997+ Wrangler as it will be noticeably nicer than the previous years. Don't get the 4 cylinder--it's terrible on power and fuel economy. I wouldn't be too worried about high miles (150k+) since the 6 cylinder engine is very reliable. That said, you will want to budget some money for high mileage maintenance like replacing worn out suspension parts, etc. It's probably going to be tough to find one under $10k--you'll want to watch craigslist and be ready to buy a good one as soon as you see it. Even then you might be watching for them for a while. If you just want a Jeep for banging around off road, have you considered a Cherokee (just Cherokee, not the Grand Cherokee)? It's not a convertible, but has a lot more utility and still a great amount of off road capability. You can find a nice later model year (97+) Cherokee for $4-5k pretty easily, and have a decent amount left over for maintenance and some upgrades like a small lift and bigger tires.
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Nov 25, 2013 10:24
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If you get a Wrangler, avoid the 04/05 (I forget which) with the 4.0 as they're known for having the oil pump+DIS drive gear grenade, leaving you with zero oil pressure very abruptly. Far as I know chrysler is still pretending it isn't a problem and putting the same flawed parts into them to fix the issue, too. I don't know if any aftermarket suppliers have solved the problem. The rest of the TJ years are pretty OK AFAIK. Check the frame for rot around the mounting bolts for the belly plate and rear control arms, though.
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Nov 25, 2013 15:17
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Holy cow I had no idea wranglers were so expensive.
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Nov 25, 2013 16:14
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wilfredmerriweathr posted:Holy cow I had no idea wranglers were so expensive. Yeah it's stupid - but it makes me feel better about owning one.
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Nov 25, 2013 17:31
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wilfredmerriweathr posted:Holy cow I had no idea wranglers were so expensive. They last a long time though. Unless you try to redneck engineer your own control arms, then you die with it.
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Nov 25, 2013 18:11
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EightBit posted:They last a long time though. Unless you try to redneck engineer your own control arms, then you die with it. Its one of the toughest vehicles made next to say the Land Rover Defender. But the funny part is this comes fully back to the thread name. Driving a brick with a tractor motor. Also if you don't mind older rides, there are several CJ7s running about as well. Not much in the way of A/C or anything like that, but if you find a CJ 7 in good shape, they are worthy of a look too. But again, you can't expect much out of these... very very very crude.
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Nov 25, 2013 18:52
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Its one of the toughest vehicles made next to say the Land Rover Defender. But the funny part is this comes fully back to the thread name. Driving a brick with a tractor motor. A YJ is also little more than a CJ with a padded dash and possibly fuel injection. If he can deal with that, he can get a lot more for his money.
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Nov 25, 2013 22:36
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Ozmiander posted:A YJ is also little more than a CJ with a padded dash and possibly fuel injection. If he can deal with that, he can get a lot more for his money. Prospective YJ buyers should avoid 87 to 90 models because of the notorious 4.2L e-carbed disaster under their hoods.
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Nov 25, 2013 23:55
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Thanks a lot guys for the information. Now I know which directions I can broaden my search. I'm pretty solid on wanting the i6 already just from what I've seen and heard about power, etc. I didn't really think about some of the "older" years and have been solidly tracking the 2000+ models. Apparently "Wrangler" doesn't always = CJ7 or other model numbers for particular years depending upon searches on AutoTrader or Craigslist, etc. While I'd love to have it A/C isn't a huge thing since my main purpose for it will mostly be beach top-off driving.
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Nov 26, 2013 01:34
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Untagged posted:Thanks a lot guys for the information. Now I know which directions I can broaden my search. I'm pretty solid on wanting the i6 already just from what I've seen and heard about power, etc. I didn't really think about some of the "older" years and have been solidly tracking the 2000+ models. Apparently "Wrangler" doesn't always = CJ7 or other model numbers for particular years depending upon searches on AutoTrader or Craigslist, etc. While I'd love to have it A/C isn't a huge thing since my main purpose for it will mostly be beach top-off driving. pre 87 = CJ*, 87 and later = wrangler
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Nov 26, 2013 02:00
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Wrangler Drivers: "Some of our tractor powered bricks have non-aerodynamic sails that let rain in and rip at the most inopportune time."Untagged posted:Thanks a lot guys for the information. Now I know which directions I can broaden my search. I'm pretty solid on wanting the i6 already just from what I've seen and heard about power, etc. I didn't really think about some of the "older" years and have been solidly tracking the 2000+ models. Apparently "Wrangler" doesn't always = CJ7 or other model numbers for particular years depending upon searches on AutoTrader or Craigslist, etc. While I'd love to have it A/C isn't a huge thing since my main purpose for it will mostly be beach top-off driving. Not a scholarly peer reviewed source but wikipedia does a passable breakdown of CJs and Wranglers. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeep_CJ http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeep_Wrangler Honestly, If I were to buy a Jeep today to replace my current wrangler I would either end up with a CJ7 (either plain carbed or with an EFI motor swap because gently caress e-carbs) or a 91-99 wrangler (either YJ or TJ) with a 4.0L and 5 speed. Anything newer would feel wrong when I inevitably bash on it with a hammer. Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 18:38 on Nov 26, 2013 |
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Nov 26, 2013 18:31
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FWIW - the CJ5 and CJ7 have a huge following so parts are super easy to get a hold of. I am pretty sure there are manufacturers that make full fiberglass tubs to replace a rusty body on CJ's. And if your feeling handy with a wrench, you can easily plop in an LSx motor, or really any V8 (besides big blocks, you will break poo poo). Swaps are well documented and its Lego's for adults. They did stuff a few 304's into random Jeeps, so if you find one in good shape, don't hesitate to buy it. Also, you can plop a TBI system on a AMC 304 easy as pie, mega squirt makes it easy by using common junkyard parts. Word of advice - The AMC 304 is a good motor, with very few issues. They seemed to use what ever AMC could get a hold of, so don't be surprised if you find motorcraft or AC delco parts scattered through the engines. Lots of people seem to change out the oil pump on the, which is super easy being its right behind the oil filter. Few bolts and its done. Edit: Also, the CJ's are going to retain their value well, and may increase with tastefully done mods, IE proper wheels, fuel injection, etc.
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Nov 26, 2013 19:45
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BrokenKnucklez posted:FWIW - the CJ5 and CJ7 have a huge following so parts are super easy to get a hold of. I am pretty sure there are manufacturers that make full fiberglass tubs to replace a rusty body on CJ's. I have both a CJ7 and a YJ Wrangler. You can replace a CJ7 tub with a YJ tub with minimal fuss if you want to keep it all steel. Also, yes, Jeeps are like Legos for adults.
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Nov 26, 2013 19:53
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You can also put a 360 or a 401 in there, if you so desire. The 304, 360, 401, 258, 4.0, and a number of other motors all share the same bellhousing pattern. The only difference is the motor mount bosses, the crankshaft bore for the pilot bearing changed at one point (by year, not by motor) and the pilot tip diameter of the transmission input shaft also changed diameter at one point. Basically everything else bolts together too with a variety of exceptions.
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Nov 26, 2013 20:08
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Too bad you chumps aren't near me, I need a engine swap and a open cooling swap done, and I can't flippin' do it where I live.
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Nov 26, 2013 20:27
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Also if your shopping TJ's be sure to throughly check the frame. I've seen more then a fairshare of them with rotted out frames. Check around the control arm pockets and the transmission cross member.
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Nov 26, 2013 20:54
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Veeb0rg posted:Also if your shopping TJ's be sure to throughly check the frame. I've seen more then a fairshare of them with rotted out frames. This applies to YJs and CJs too.
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Nov 26, 2013 21:51
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InterceptorV8 posted:Too bad you chumps aren't near me, I need a engine swap and a open cooling swap done, and I can't flippin' do it where I live. I thought you were near Ferntucky. Afraid of getting your poo poo scrapped if you have to go in to take a piss?
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Nov 26, 2013 21:53
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West SAAB Story posted:I thought you were near Ferntucky. Afraid of getting your poo poo scrapped if you have to go in to take a piss? Naw, where I live they don't want people pulling engines and poo poo. Not 100% what I want to dump my money into, a Jeep or my old F250.
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Nov 26, 2013 22:15
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Don't you have a garage? Close the door and tell em to stop trespassing if they bother you while you're working on it.
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Nov 26, 2013 22:27
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kastein posted:Don't you have a garage? Close the door and tell em to stop trespassing if they bother you while you're working on it. Nope, I wish I did. I can't bitch too much, they are cool with me parking my rig here.
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Nov 26, 2013 22:54
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So my wifes uncle (my uncle in law?) is interested in my old 92 Cherokee sport. Its a 2 door 2 wheel drive 5 speed and I'm not sure if he wants to part it out or what. My question is, what would be a fair price for the motor and transmission? The body is rusted which is why I bought the WJ, and I doubt would be worth much to anybody. Honestly, I'd almost be willing to trade him straight up for his time helping us finish the work on our house and with helping me sort out a few problems with the Grand. Any thoughts?
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Nov 27, 2013 08:50
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Be a nice guy and trade it to him for the help. My father had someone sell him a car for $1 in college and the only catch was that at some point he had to sell a car to someone else for $1. It's a good thing. In other news, somehow when I inspected my xj before I bought it I neglected to notice that right near the back of the rocker panels it looks like somebody tried jacking the drat thing up using the pinch weld. Suffice to say that both (?!) the passenger and driver side rocker panels have this issue where they are basically bent upwards right in front of the rear wheels and this has allowed salty poo poo-water to get up in there and basically turn everything to powder. Lucky for me I was already planning on welding in new floor pans (made out of whatever steel plate I can find) over christmas, so it looks like this project just got a whole lot more intense. Probably going to cut the rockers completely out and replace with some 2"x6" metal box tube. Actually come to think about it I'm pretty sure the guys at discount tire bent the rockers in but honestly they are so rusty they probably did me a favor by motivating me to get replacements fabbed. wilfredmerriweathr fucked around with this message at 23:55 on Nov 27, 2013 |
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Nov 27, 2013 13:09
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So I just changed out the spark plugs in my 2000 XJ.. pretty sure the original plugs were still in there. 220k miles.. Champion plugs. The electrodes were almost non-existent and I am not sure how the thing was running. So much more power now, I am not lurching up to 40mph. I saved the old plugs so I will get a picture for your amusement. That rail is a bitch to work around. Right under my front bumper next to the OEM fog lights, there are two rectangular cut outs. There is a torx bolt and a hex bolt right next to each other by these holes. Any idea what these were intended for? I would think D rings or some kind of recovery device.
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Nov 28, 2013 07:40
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Polish posted:So I just changed out the spark plugs in my 2000 XJ.. pretty sure the original plugs were still in there. 220k miles.. Champion plugs. The electrodes were almost non-existent and I am not sure how the thing was running. So much more power now, I am not lurching up to 40mph. I saved the old plugs so I will get a picture for your amusement. That rail is a bitch to work around. You used NGK plugs, right? 
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Nov 28, 2013 08:59
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EightBit posted:You used NGK plugs, right? Yep, but maybe I should of used Champions since they last apparently drat near forever. I bought it with 70k on it and I know I have not gotten new plugs since I've owned it.
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Nov 28, 2013 17:02
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My XJ just today wouldn't stay running unless I held down the gas. As soon as I left off it would just shut right off. I got it started by cranking and pumping the gas and then held it for about a minute and it seemed to be running fine on its own after that. Any thoughts on what to look for? It was fairly cold last night and today. EDIT: It was working fine yesterday. This only started when I first tried to fire it up today. Seems OK now that its been running. Restarts fine while it is still warm. Guess I'll find out later when I try to leave family dinner and it sat for awhile. owls or something fucked around with this message at 18:55 on Nov 28, 2013 |
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Nov 28, 2013 18:39
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Polish posted:Yep, but maybe I should of used Champions since they last apparently drat near forever. I bought it with 70k on it and I know I have not gotten new plugs since I've owned it. No, Champion plugs are poo poo and that set only lasted as long as it did to spite you.
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Nov 28, 2013 18:45
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EightBit posted:No, Champion plugs are poo poo and that set only lasted as long as it did to spite you. Champions are fine for old engines like that. You're crazy.
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Nov 28, 2013 18:47
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Ozmiander posted:Champions are fine for old engines like that. You're crazy. The 2000 XJ with the 4.0 has the coil rail setup right? Yeah, that thing has a pretty hot spark combined with waste spark ignition (the spark goes off every time the cylinder comes around), that burns through lovely champion plugs. I switched to NGK when the set of Champion plugs I put in shortly after buying my TJ was toast after 15,000 miles. They were probably toast before that, but that's when I pulled them to see what was causing the engine to run kinda lovely, and found that the gap had widened significantly on every plug. NGK plugs haven't burned out like that in over 30,000 miles.
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Nov 28, 2013 18:54
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