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The Chairman posted:turning the printer 90 degrees counterclockwise looks like it'd take care of it and angle the dryer box a little too. Can you get the runout sensor closer to either the box or the DD?
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Jan 12, 2023 16:55
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I did consider printing a mount that puts the runout sensor directly over the entry to the extruder but I figured that'd make the filament route to the runout even weirder. I didn't even think about rotating the printer!
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Jan 12, 2023 17:00
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Toebone posted:I moved my Ender 3 into a different room and now it's giving me thermal runaway errors every print, what'd I screw up? Temperature used to be stable as a rock. There's not a lot I can think of that could have gotten jostled in a move that would cause symptoms like that. If pulling out and retightening the thermistor didn't help, I'd check for loose or damaged wires. That's very odd.
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Jan 12, 2023 18:16
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Doctor Zero posted:BTW, I've been printing PLA with the glass top on with no issues. Good to know, I love the space savings of the AMS on top but it's really not optimal in other ways. SubNat posted:I think it has a push-fit connection to hold it in place, like the kind you often see to attach tubes to extruders on bowden setups. Thanks, that's helpful. I suspected it was one of those type of connectors, just recessed, but from what I could tell by probing around that didn't seem to be the case. Shows what I know! Late edit: BadMedic posted:I can't, but I have a warning: I looked this up. Early versions of the AMS (e.g. kickstarter) have a risk of cracking around the roller bearings in the AMS. Design has been changed since. If it happens you can print reinforcements and glue them in. The Eyes Have It fucked around with this message at 19:09 on Jan 12, 2023 |
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Jan 12, 2023 18:41
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Toebone posted:I moved my Ender 3 into a different room and now it's giving me thermal runaway errors every print, what'd I screw up? Temperature used to be stable as a rock. Shouldn't be spiking like that. Thermistor is dying or heater cartridge wiring is screwed up. Creality is notorious for having tinned wires in screw terminals to the control board, that's worth looking at.
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Jan 12, 2023 19:09
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do you resin printers drop lift speed when doing an entire plate of minis? I'm doing some big lost kingdoms minis, like 4 pretty big dino dudes, and i've had some pulling off supports even on like, super supported areas. im wondering if too much lift speed is causing it.
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Jan 12, 2023 20:20
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Counterintuitively I prefer more lift speed to bandaid rip the parts off the fep
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Jan 12, 2023 20:35
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queeb posted:do you resin printers drop lift speed when doing an entire plate of minis? I'm doing some big lost kingdoms minis, like 4 pretty big dino dudes, and i've had some pulling off supports even on like, super supported areas. im wondering if too much lift speed is causing it. Nope, literally crank that poo poo as high as you can
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Jan 12, 2023 20:38
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gently caress i should hollow these guys, they're so drat heavy and thats probably not helping, hollowing cuts it way way down this is what im printing, i just hollowed them all, brought the resin cost down like 1.50 lol, probably a smart move. I dont usually on like human sized 28mm minis but these guys are like 3-4" tall queeb fucked around with this message at 20:47 on Jan 12, 2023 |
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Jan 12, 2023 20:40
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So I have my first proper complaint about my CR-6 SE. Filament sensor died, got a replacement when I asked the store. But now I've just spent a good little while dissolving some of the liberal, splatfest levels of hot glue gun wads blasted all over basically every connector. Both the sensor side and gantry-hub side of the filament sensor's cable were glued. Got one side loose, but if I want, or need to replace the cable, or the extruder's, I'm going to have to unfuck a giant blob of glue holding 3-4 connectors in place. I feel like filament sensors and extruders are some of those parts that are fairly likely to require swapping over the lifetime of a machine, so having them glued in is just kind of obnoxious. It's minor, but it's just feels completely unnecessary. queeb posted:gently caress i should hollow these guys, they're so drat heavy and thats probably not helping, hollowing cuts it way way down Are you just hollowing, or including some holes to let them vent, allowing for better drainage, and letting you clean out the insides as well? I think that's standard practice, but not sure if it's critical or one of those 'better safe than sorry' things.
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Jan 12, 2023 20:54
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SubNat posted:So I have my first proper complaint about my CR-6 SE. Filament sensor died, got a replacement when I asked the store. yeah i snuck holes in around the thighs and taint on them, wherever i can sneak them in that is hidden, 3mm holes so i can flush in there with IPA and then shine a uv pen light in. edit: man its a pretty wide spread of exposure numbers on some of these resins, there's people getting good prints at 1.4s exposure, some at 2.5, mine seems to like 2.5 as a setting, 1.5 was crazy under exposed. queeb fucked around with this message at 22:53 on Jan 12, 2023 |
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Jan 12, 2023 21:19
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SubNat posted:So I have my first proper complaint about my CR-6 SE. Filament sensor died, got a replacement when I asked the store. Yeah, the CR-6SE is like that. No idea why other than it went through a rapid dev cycle because of kickstarter, so they probably overcompensated rather than doing extensive testing. quote:Are you just hollowing, or including some holes to let them vent, allowing for better drainage, and letting you clean out the insides as well? It's critical. At the very least the parts will pull off the supports because of suction. Or, a little worse, you will get pressure "wormholes" or cracks where the resin found a weak spot. Worst case is it prints fine, but a year down the road the outer shell cracks and uncured resin leaks all over the please.
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Jan 12, 2023 23:43
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queeb posted:do you resin printers drop lift speed when doing an entire plate of minis? I'm doing some big lost kingdoms minis, like 4 pretty big dino dudes, and i've had some pulling off supports even on like, super supported areas. im wondering if too much lift speed is causing it. Going to go against the "need for speed" flow here and once again state that ever since I slowed my resin prints down to 45-60 mm/s, I rarely if ever have failures where prints got stuck to the FEP  I also increased the distance the build plate lifts between layers, where it rises up and then back down into the resin again. I forget where I read it but the logic was to allow the resin a little more time to "recover" before the next layer. I think I only bumped it up by 1 or 2 mm or so from the default.
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Jan 13, 2023 00:01
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queeb posted:yeah i snuck holes in around the thighs and taint on them, wherever i can sneak them in that is hidden, 3mm holes so i can flush in there with IPA and then shine a uv pen light in. but anyway, getting back to 3d printing...
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Jan 13, 2023 00:13
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Sydney Bottocks posted:Going to go against the "need for speed" flow here and once again state that ever since I slowed my resin prints down to 45-60 mm/s, I rarely if ever have failures where prints got stuck to the FEP I think slowing the speed down helps a lot, especially with more brittle resins. I am still completely shocked at the print difference between Sunlu ABS like and Anycubic Eco resin.
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Jan 13, 2023 00:35
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queeb posted:do you resin printers drop lift speed when doing an entire plate of minis? I'm doing some big lost kingdoms minis, like 4 pretty big dino dudes, and i've had some pulling off supports even on like, super supported areas. im wondering if too much lift speed is causing it. I flattened the build plate using a fly cutter on a milling machine, then used a sanding attachment with 60 grit on the build plate while it was still mounted on the milling machine to make it nice and rough. I also lubricate the FEP with 3-in-1 PTFE lubricant by putting a few drops on and buffing it out with a microfiber cloth. For prints with a large base, I drat near need a hammer and chisel to remove them from the build plate. I get that most people don't have a milling machine in their basement, but if you really want to go all out, it might be worth checking with a machine shop to see what they would charge to flatten the build plate and then scuff it up. A fly cutter or a surfacing mill would get it flat. A surface grinder would get it extremely flat, but that might be a little overkill. As for scuffing, sandblasting with a coarse media would probably work as well as my sandpaper method. My local machine shop has a $60/hr minimum, but this would take less than an hour.
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Jan 13, 2023 01:35
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The Eyes Have It posted:I'm setting up my Bambu with AMS and I have a couple questions I can't figure out from their documentation. Can anyone help me out with these? I use some printed spacers to hold the glass up so it gets better fresh air when printing PLA. Doubt it changes all that much but doesn't hurt, and looks cool in silver! https://www.printables.com/model/314181-bambu-lab-x1-spacers-top-glass-lid-cover-riser-hol For #2 you basically need a printed piece as it's a bit of a design flaw. I like the version that adds a levered arm for easy removal, despite rarely ever needing to use it  https://www.printables.com/model/287529-bambu-lab-ams-disconnect-tools https://www.printables.com/model/275483-bambu-lab-x1-ams-tube-release-helper
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Jan 13, 2023 02:41
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I got a sucessful calibration cones at 3 seconds, 2.5 seconds still failed, 3 was bang on. That seems excessively long on a mono x, i see people doing the same resin at like 1.5-2 seconds, but whatever, at least its bang on.
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Jan 13, 2023 02:52
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queeb posted:I got a sucessful calibration cones at 3 seconds, 2.5 seconds still failed, 3 was bang on. That seems excessively long on a mono x, i see people doing the same resin at like 1.5-2 seconds, but whatever, at least its bang on. Is the 1.5-2 the same type of resin but a different color? Supposedly color/opacity can impact exposure time needs. On the other hand, the rough calculation is that all things being equal, an increase of 1 second exposure time adds 25 minutes to a print with 1,500 layers, so might not be that impactful to total print time.
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Jan 13, 2023 03:15
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 im going off that spreadsheet plus some of the settings in lychee, but yeah, same resin and color, just mine is much longer. ah well, as you said its like 25 mins.
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Jan 13, 2023 03:29
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queeb posted:
Forgive me if I missed it, but are you printing at 0.5 or 0.4? It looks like those settings are for 0.4, which might explain the lower layer exposure time.
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Jan 13, 2023 03:38
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yeah there's one in 0.05 below it at 1.8 as well, https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet...8#gid=132469647 really strange, but I do get a ton of fails trying to print at 1.8. maybe my LCD is dying or something. my UV power is at 80% which seems pretty average for most people printing on a mono x
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Jan 13, 2023 03:40
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Thanks for the tips, I got my Bambu up and running tonight. Z axis error on calibration and extruder fan speed error on first calibration were a bummer. But a firmware update later & launching new calibration from the app, and all seems well  It's fast for sure, and the optical extrusion calibration is pretty nifty. Prints? So far the machine's results look... serviceable. Frankly, first few layers aren't as clean as I'm used to but again, serviceable. Having to gently caress with gluestick is gross tho. The AMS had better loving pull its weight for clean multi-color printing. Otherwise this thing's going on craigslist if it offers nothing over my Prusas besides speed.
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Jan 13, 2023 05:33
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 I wish 6 year old me could possibly know I would someday be able to make whatever size lego shark I want in whatever color I want
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Jan 13, 2023 12:22
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queeb posted:yeah there's one in 0.05 below it at 1.8 as well, I've never been able to get close to the super fast speeds I see in those things. It's got to be either results from a perfectly tuned machine, in the optimal environment, or people are getting one good print out of the setting and saying it works. Even You tubers I trust like Dennys Wang and Uncle Jesse don't get those speeds. I have never heard of anyone actually getting those speeds in the world. Any goons able to do that? The Eyes Have It posted:Thanks for the tips, I got my Bambu up and running tonight. Z axis error on calibration and extruder fan speed error on first calibration were a bummer. But a firmware update later & launching new calibration from the app, and all seems well You're not liking the quality??? I'm surprised. You're using their slicer, right? What kind of filament? I'm noticing that crappy filament is still crappy filament, but good filament (Bambu's filament is pretty good IMO) looks fantastic.
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Jan 13, 2023 15:37
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Intentional double post: I got this email from Bambu. I like the transparency. Seems like they are taking the concerns seriously. Bambu Labs posted:Dear Bambu Lab Customer,
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Jan 13, 2023 15:42
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Just a general question. What would be a "fast" benchy print time, without requiring anything excessive or sacrificing quality? And what kind of hot end flow would that require? Debating Rapido vs Evo Voron for an upcoming printer.
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Jan 13, 2023 16:28
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I accidentally nuked my Klipper setup and don't have any recent backups of my printer.cfg, life is suffering
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Jan 13, 2023 16:31
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The Chairman posted:I accidentally nuked my Klipper setup and don't have any recent backups of my printer.cfg, life is suffering Installing Marlin forks is about my limit for printer janitoring at the moment because of stuff like this lol
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Jan 13, 2023 16:47
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hello friends. so ABS like resin loving owns wow, the minis feel way more durable and more plastic like than water washable stuff. i ran into one issue on this print, like half the minis had this line on them:  even on that one mini its only about halfway through the model. levelling issue? i can probably lightly sand it away but kinda weird.
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Jan 13, 2023 18:12
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The Chairman posted:I accidentally nuked my Klipper setup and don't have any recent backups of my printer.cfg, life is suffering I did that on my voron build after I got CANBUS working and had to redo the entire setup, I was less than pleased lol
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Jan 13, 2023 18:38
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and that's the kick I need to do rolling backups of my configs to my NAS, ty
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Jan 13, 2023 19:00
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Doctor Zero posted:You're not liking the quality??? I'm surprised. You're using their slicer, right? What kind of filament? I'm noticing that crappy filament is still crappy filament, but good filament (Bambu's filament is pretty good IMO) looks fantastic. I'm still settling in and getting familiar, and it's all example files and house filament so far. So it's still early for me. But so far the first layers are not a great first impression. Coverage is good, but boogers and noticeable missing/messy perimeter segments seem normal. I'm happy to say the rest of the models printed great! But I'm still in the familiarizing and loving around phase.  
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Jan 13, 2023 19:10
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If every layer except the first is fine, it probably means your first layer is the wrong height off the plate. Try tweaking it by, like, a tenth of a millimeter or something, and seeing if it helps. I also found that, at least for my printer, it seemed like I needed a slightly different height for PLA and PETG. But maybe that was just my imagination?
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Jan 13, 2023 19:14
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Bobulus posted:If every layer except the first is fine, it probably means your first layer is the wrong height off the plate. Try tweaking it by, like, a tenth of a millimeter or something, and seeing if it helps. PETG needs a slightly bigger gap or it'll blob up and jam the extruder
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Jan 13, 2023 19:16
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Bobulus posted:If every layer except the first is fine, it probably means your first layer is the wrong height off the plate. Try tweaking it by, like, a tenth of a millimeter or something, and seeing if it helps. I don't know, coverage/squish is otherwise good. My first guess would be that the first layer should just be slowed down a little so that maybe features don't get ripped up, but I'll keep that in mind.
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Jan 13, 2023 19:24
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queeb posted:hello friends. so ABS like resin loving owns wow, the minis feel way more durable and more plastic like than water washable stuff. A layer got stock to the fep for a layer or 2, then reattached to it and continued. Maybe an exposure time issue, or a scratch in the fep thats causing adhesion to be a bit stronger in a particular area.
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Jan 13, 2023 19:33
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turns out its across every model, just really fine on other ones, so the entire plate has that one line. would that be a z axis or lift distance thing maybe? first time its shown up, bummer to lose all these models.
queeb fucked around with this message at 19:51 on Jan 13, 2023 |
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Jan 13, 2023 19:43
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queeb posted:turns out its across every model, just really fine on other ones, so the entire plate has that one line. would that be a z axis or lift distance thing maybe? first time its shown up, bummer to lose all these models. that's kind of odd. I find it unlikely the the entire plate stuck to the FEP for a layer or two all at the exact same layer. Try re-slicing? or a different slicer?
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Jan 13, 2023 20:04
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Is it happening just this one time or is it every time on all prints? If it's repeatable and always at the same height I would look at the Z screw or something like that. If it was just once then maybe the table got bumped or something?
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Jan 13, 2023 20:11
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