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I've considered buying a small utility trailer for carrying extra stuff with my TJ. There are even companies that make trailers that ride on 33" BFG tires (not really necessary for grip, but the ground clearance on the trailer helps you pull it down really rutted-out roads). I wouldn't want a dead deer over me or in my Jeep either; at least in a TJ, you can hose the thing out relatively easy, not so sure an XJ would be so easy.
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Dec 11, 2013 20:07
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Maybe I'm calling it the wrong name. I'm talking about one of these. Mega useful for haulin' dead deer and beer coolers in my (future) brick with a tractor motor. Shachi fucked around with this message at 21:58 on Dec 11, 2013 |
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Dec 11, 2013 21:35
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Darchangel posted:TPS issue on my XJ ended up being the thing was unplugged. The catch apparently popped loose and the plug wiggled itself out over time. The rough ice on the roads last Friday apparently dealt the final blow. Went out yesterday to test it, and noticed that I could see the rubber seal, and the catch was no where near the little pin it clips over. Plugged it back in - no more Check Engine light. Woot! Those are the best fixes, when you get prepared to start digging into some nasty problem and immediately find it's just something that is unplugged. Plug it back in, fire it up, and go drink beer the rest of the day.
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Dec 11, 2013 21:49
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kastein posted:That line (iirc) is only available as a full piece - what you're looking at is a small leak right at the crimp where the soft line meets the hard line. You could probably cut it off and use AN fittings to attach a soft line, but a new factory line shouldn't be that bad. Admittedly, I've never seen the factory lines fail spontaneously, even after leaking for years.
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Dec 11, 2013 23:40
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OneOverZero posted:Hell, I think I'd use Shoo Goo to hold a dollar store bendy straw on there before attempting to use the Dorman lines again. If you're replacing one line due to a crimp leak, it's likely the other is in a similar state or will be soon. New factory lines (aside from the crossover in the front) and two of the trans fittings ran me $100 or so - cheap insurance, all things considered. Gotcha. Yeah, its basically dripping at a rate of about 1 drop every 5 seconds, so pretty bad.
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Dec 11, 2013 23:53
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wilfredmerriweathr posted:Oh I know, it's just that he said it's for fishing/hunting/camping and those things require you to carry crap with you, so if you plan on going with more than one other person you'll be filling a wrangler up pretty dang fast. Get one of those trailer hitch cargo racks. That's my plan, hopefully in the spring. I also removed my backseat because nobody ever rides in there. Even a new JK has no trunk space, unless you get the 4-door. When I had a YJ (4-cylinder) I also had the backseat out. I also had a top speed of 60 mph and got a whopping 13 mpg...in nice, flat, Oklahoma. It was gutless on the highway, but I never had to get winched out of the mud...almost once, but it eventually dug in and pulled itself out. Edit: Shachi posted:Maybe I'm calling it the wrong name. I'm talking about one of these. This is exactly what I was talking about. The reviews on the one Harbor Freight sells are mixed, and frankly they're not much cheaper than other brands. Edit2: I had a windjammer setup for my YJ and it didn't seal worth poo poo. In fact, the wind always blew the rain/snow/whatever directly into the loving cab. gently caress that poo poo. Godholio fucked around with this message at 03:13 on Dec 12, 2013 |
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Dec 12, 2013 03:11
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Godholio posted:
The kind that is supposed to seal or the kind where weatherproofing is more of a suggestion? I know the tops made for early YJs with kid crusher bars aren't even designed in any way to seal out weather.  ^^ like this? Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 10:50 on Dec 12, 2013 |
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Dec 12, 2013 10:48
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Sandbagger SA posted:The kind that is supposed to seal or the kind where weatherproofing is more of a suggestion? I know the tops made for early YJs with kid crusher bars aren't even designed in any way to seal out weather. That would be the perfect top except it's the same drat price as a full Supertop. I was hoping for a $400-500 solution, not a $650 one. Oh well, I ordered a cheap windjammer until I sell the YJ and can drop the cash on a full Supertop among other things the CJ needs. Speaking of which, I have a potential buyer. We agreed on a price last night, he's supposed to discuss it with his wife and call me today with their decision. He didn't say "WHAT'S YOUR BOTTOM DOLLAR!?" when I first answered the phone, so there's hope.
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Dec 12, 2013 14:06
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Team140 posted:That would be the perfect top except it's the same drat price as a full Supertop. I was hoping for a $400-500 solution, not a $650 one. Oh well, I ordered a cheap windjammer until I sell the YJ and can drop the cash on a full Supertop among other things the CJ needs. Speaking of which, I have a potential buyer. We agreed on a price last night, he's supposed to discuss it with his wife and call me today with their decision. He didn't say "WHAT'S YOUR BOTTOM DOLLAR!?" when I first answered the phone, so there's hope. Awesome, good luck. I love the phone calls that start with "Well, kelly blue book says it's worth this. Whats the lowest price you'll take?"
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Dec 12, 2013 14:33
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Shachi posted:Awesome, good luck. I love the phone calls that start with "Well, kelly blue book says it's worth this. Whats the lowest price you'll take?" Thanks! Yeah, In the past month or two, I've sold/traded a 1940 Chevrolet, a 1979 Corvette, some expensive computer equipment, and now this Jeep. Every single time I've had someone kick off the conversation with "WHAT'S THE LEAST YOU'LL TAKE?!?," they either became woefully confused when I explained (nicely) how to negotiate a price and gave up or offered a tiny fraction of what I was asking. Someone offered me $700 for the Corvette. It ran. It drove. It looked like the Batmobile. It needed a little TLC, but I had it priced HALF of what NADA Classics said it was worth. I obviously passed on the $700 offer and made the trade for the (rust free!) CJ7 that I have now.
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Dec 12, 2013 15:38
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Team140 posted:Thanks! Haha I sold a mint 2005 Honda civic with like 30k miles on it last year. One guy called me and gave me this long lecture about how $8,000 was asking too much for it because "Edmunds says it's only worth about $3,000 whats the lowest you'll take." I said how about make me an offer and we'll go from there and he begins yelling about how I'm unrealistc and asking way too much etc. I finally hung up on him. Between those fuckers and these fuckers: Google Text posted:+16463976419: 2005 Honda Civic EX Special Edition - $9999 (Rock Hill).. Hello,I saw your advert.. it is lovely,how long have you been using this car ? and let me know your firm price before i make any offer 8:11 AM Yes. An oceanographer. I'm trying to sell my BMW now so I can't wait to see what I get. Any of you oceanographers wanna buy it?
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Dec 12, 2013 16:26
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Id like to get some bumpstops with some more cushion for my JK unlimited. I was looking at the teraflex speed bumps but they're $900 or so. That's a hefty price for a machined sleeve with some foam inside. Any other suggestions ?
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Dec 12, 2013 17:49
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King Shocks Hydraulic Bumpstops  That's my plan anyway.. But cheap they are not either. Better cost to benefit ratio though Edit: Hydraulic not Air McTinkerson fucked around with this message at 22:24 on Dec 12, 2013 |
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Dec 12, 2013 22:21
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Team140 posted:He didn't say "WHAT'S YOUR BOTTOM DOLLAR!?" when I first answered the phone, so there's hope. Good sir, I will have you know I keep my largest denominations on the bottom of my bill fold so I seem less pretentious. 
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Dec 12, 2013 23:22
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McTinkerson posted:King Shocks Hydraulic Bumpstops So the Teraflex are foam, King's are hydraulic and Fox's are air ? I was just doing some measureing. I have a solid 8" of uptravel available with factory bumpstops. My only Issue is the tires rubbing on the factory fenders when the suspension is flexed. If I went back to flat fenders I would have no problem with rubbing.
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Dec 13, 2013 03:08
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 Oh Jeep. Alternator gave up the ghost on the ride to work this morning. I guess that is what has been making a little squeal in the morning when it was cold or really humid. It never did it long enough for me to figure out what was making noise. Probably just going to pick up a reman unit from O'Reilly's today.
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Dec 13, 2013 15:57
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Shachi posted:Awesome, good luck. I love the phone calls that start with "Well, kelly blue book says it's worth this. Whats the lowest price you'll take?"
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Dec 13, 2013 17:35
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New Jeep Parts Wooo! Evo D-Ring Rear Brackets Actual D-Rings on order  
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Dec 13, 2013 21:44
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mattfl posted:New Jeep Parts Wooo! Tempted to do this myself, but I'm literally shaking at the thought of snagging the frame or tub corners on a rock at some point 
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Dec 13, 2013 23:00
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OneOverZero posted:Hell, I think I'd use Shoo Goo to hold a dollar store bendy straw on there before attempting to use the Dorman lines again. If you're replacing one line due to a crimp leak, it's likely the other is in a similar state or will be soon. New factory lines (aside from the crossover in the front) and two of the trans fittings ran me $100 or so - cheap insurance, all things considered. So I'm in the middle of this job and gotten the quick disconnects apart, but I'm have a horrible breaking loose the compression nut thats on the transmission next to the NSS. My next step is to go buy a fuel line/flare wrench, but I'm having a hard time telling the size. Anyone know? Edit: NVM, looks like its a compression fitting clam: http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/2000-cherokee-transmission-cooler-line-removal-26331/ S.W.G. fucked around with this message at 23:15 on Dec 14, 2013 |
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Dec 14, 2013 23:11
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S.W.G. posted:So I'm in the middle of this job and gotten the quick disconnects apart, but I'm have a horrible breaking loose the compression nut thats on the transmission next to the NSS. My next step is to go buy a fuel line/flare wrench, but I'm having a hard time telling the size. edit: looking at the photo in that guy's thread, I have no idea what the "plastic retaining piece" on the front hardline connection is. The four-pronged metal clip is the standard retention method on that connection, but is that piece actually the guide leading into the O-rings in the line? 
OneOverZero fucked around with this message at 23:25 on Dec 14, 2013 |
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Dec 14, 2013 23:19
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 Painting the YJ this weekend. Tired of all the people looking at it to buy it get turned off by the silver doors. It's been 20 years since I've painted a vehicle and holy crap paint has become quite expensive! $212 for 2 quarts of paint and enough magical elixirs to mix it properly! I've never, ever mastered the art of Bondo. I'm going to have some divots and waves unless I get some help before the spray hits it. Also, I asked the wife to bring home a couple of Scotch Brite pads while she was out. That was 5 hours ago. Oh well. I hope the drizzling rain lets up long enough for me to drive it to where we're painting it.
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Dec 14, 2013 23:47
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Crazy odd question. What would be a problem if I switched the Cherokee Lardasso power window doors for standard manual doors?
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Dec 15, 2013 07:18
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Dumb question: The box on the 99-04 Jeep Grand Cherokee - 2wd/4part time/4Full time/n/4lo .... Is the center box have a locking diff right? Because 4 Part time would mean, locked diff, and 4Full time would mean center diff act as if its viscous, so it wont cause any drive train damage. Or am I thinking incorrectly?
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Dec 15, 2013 10:34
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InterceptorV8 posted:Crazy odd question. What would be a problem if I switched the Cherokee Lardasso power window doors for standard manual doors? You wouldn't have power windows (or locks)?
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Dec 15, 2013 11:29
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Dumb question: Correct.
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Dec 15, 2013 13:21
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Dumb question: The 247 transfer case (4 Full Time, Neutral, 4 Low) isn't viscous either, it uses a gerotor pump clutch assembly to take up drive to the front axle in high range, and has a front/rear lock in low range.
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Dec 15, 2013 13:29
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Either the 247 or the 249, I forget which, is also known for pooping out prematurely. No one I know likes them, they usually get replaced with a 242 rather than rebuilt when they go pear shaped.
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Dec 15, 2013 15:49
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InitialDave posted:The 247 transfer case (4 Full Time, Neutral, 4 Low) isn't viscous either, it uses a gerotor pump clutch assembly to take up drive to the front axle in high range, and has a front/rear lock in low range. Isn't the "Quadra Trac" that is the lovely one? I thought "Quadra-Drive" was the best one of the bunch.
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Dec 15, 2013 18:00
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Isn't the "Quadra Trac" that is the lovely one? I thought "Quadra-Drive" was the best one of the bunch. In the WJ, the Quadra Trac I is the non-selectable one (147 case), which I think we can just ignore. The one that's selectable is Quadra Trac II (247 case). Quadra-Drive is where the QTII 247 transfer case is joined by a gerotor-locking diff in both the front and rear axles.
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Dec 15, 2013 18:10
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So its the 247 that really blows, and the 242 is a decent case then... I have been thinking about a few ideas of things I want to do, so I was wanting to snag the correct case at a yard if I see it. Note: I have no idea what I am going to do with it, but I feel like its something I need on hand. For Lego's for adults.
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Dec 15, 2013 18:27
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My opinion is that the 247 is better than the 249, but yeah, the 242 is the one that gives you a gourmet menu of options. Just sold one I had on eBay to a guy doing a 249 swap, actually. Edit: not all the input shafts are the same, so check what you need and where you can find it, or be prepared to Lego yourself together a hybrid of two cases. InitialDave fucked around with this message at 19:13 on Dec 15, 2013 |
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Dec 15, 2013 19:11
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Just out of curiosity, how hard/dumb would it be to stick a 242 into a TJ?
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Dec 15, 2013 20:28
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More radiator chat!  I've replaced the radiator in my '01 XJ and need the lower trans cooler line fitting, visible here on a Griffin radiator from Moses Ludel's website.My Champion rad came with the correct angle & fitting, but the incorrect tubing diameter (something like 9.9mm rather than 3/8"). The OE part is captured in the radiator, so no luck reusing it. Any ideas on where I might be able to find a replacement? Can't find anything at NAPA, Carquest, O'Reilly's, Autozone, or Advance. I probably should get a section of 3/8" fuel line with the quick disco ring and bend/flare my own, but I'd rather not.
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Dec 15, 2013 20:44
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Here comes a picture dump. I got my 2014 JK August 2nd, ordered 2nd week of June, built the first week of production. I got a base sport, figuring anything I want can come from CL. Being in Ohio there's not a lot places local to wheel, so I don't plan to do anything crazy with it. When I do go out, I will likely be alone. Overall the vehicle has been nice, but it just doesn't look right. I started with a couple cans of plasti-dip. Turns out the stuff is really easy to work with. One can did the grill and the inside of the tailgate. One thing I quickly learned, putting anything in the back will roll around and eventually will scratch up the factory paint on the tailgate, so plasti-dip seemed like the best solution. With plasti-dip, you don't have to worry too much about over spray, unless you're trying to keep a straight line. Any over spray on tail lights, windows etc will just wipe off if there's not enough to form a full surface coating once it dries. For keeping a straight edge, put masking tape down, spray, then remove the tape while its still wet. Once it is dry, put the tape back and spray again. This prevents the plasti-dip from forming a bond to the tape. Here she is with 2k on the clock, first thing being disassembled:   I guess I did it a little different than everyone else who turns their logo black, but it peels off the logo and forms a nice edge around each letter as you'd hope. Along comes cyber Monday, Harbor Freight has their 9k winch on sale for $279, after applying a 25% off coupon it comes to $210, I can't pass that up. As I mentioned, if I'm wheeling alone a which seems like a good investment, or helping get my other friends stock Jeeps out of the mud. I had been contemplating making the stock bumper a stubby, as you can see in the first picture it looks a little goofy with the base Sport wheels. With a lack of good winch plate options under $200, I settled on the Rough Country Mod bumper. It met my 3 criteria, stubby, winch mount and maintains the factory fog lamps. Into surgery she goes with just 3,500 miles:  To get the stock bumper off, you have to remove some lovely little clips. Its a two part clip, where a center piece goes through the center to expand the outer piece. There are 6 under the bumper which you can shove a screw under, twist and the whole thing pops out. On the top below the grill are two lovely clips with a Phillips head on the center piece. I had read a little about these and they live up to expectations, once a screw drive touches them they immediately strip and won't come out. So here we go, no turning back now. Get you 1/16" drill bit and go through the middle, the center will pop out the bottom and the top extracted stuck to the bit.  At this point disassembly is straight forward, in the next picture you can see the 'frame horns' and the brake canister hanging out below the grill. With the change to the Pentastar V6, this canister moved forward from inside the engine bay and is supported by a bracket welded to the frame.  Here's the part that really made me cringe. That canister's bracket is now directly in the way of my new bumper. The instructions say use a grinder or reciprocating saw to remove the bracket, that's not going to happen. A Dremmel works really well here, those other two aren't going to fit in this space. In this picture you can see the two vertical lines where the bracket was cut off. It was about 1/8" plate, a bit of overkill for the canister.  Rough Country has a replacement bracket that will be bolted in place, here it is next to the stock bracket that got cut off. Notice it lacks a couple holes, those are for wire clips which I wish it had.  After my rust bucket CJ, nothing grinds my gears like rust on a new Jeep. I found this spot hidden under the plastic bumper on the front frame rail. It makes me wonder how many more of these little gems are hidden on the frame. When Jeep talks about quality rust protection, they're talking out their rear end.  The fog lights drop into place, the bumper only came with nuts so I added lock washers and some Loctite here.  For some reason I thought the fairlead would be mounted to the winch, but the HF winch doesn't even have holes for bolts to mount it. In this case it just goes straight onto the bumper. The winch came with nice hardware, everything is grade 8, or at least its marked that way. The rest of the bumper bolts on like normal. I used the factory tow hooks so the winch had a place to grab. Wireing was easy, the wires just run up under the radiator, along the passenger side fender around the air box and fuse box. 6" more on the hot wire would have made the installation a bit cleaner, but its functional. I read the pre-Pentastar JKs had a dedicated entrance into the battery box for winch wires, but those aren't here. Another thing of note, this bumper is mounted directly to the frame horns, the studs are a part of the tow hooks. There wasn't much crumple zone on the original bumper, but that margin is completely gone now.   Last I took it outside for a nice rain bath, and everything is done. The only left it to add some mud!  
giundy fucked around with this message at 20:50 on Dec 15, 2013 |
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Dec 15, 2013 20:48
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Darchangel posted:You wouldn't have power windows (or locks)? Just wondering if something retarded is wired through the loving door/window power.
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Dec 15, 2013 20:57
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EightBit posted:Just out of curiosity, how hard/dumb would it be to stick a 242 into a TJ? That is actually why I was asking about every thing myself. But if the transmission is the same as the previous vehicle, I would imagine things would bolt together, or just do a little swapping around of output shafts (and even then, that would be super easy to modify)
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Dec 15, 2013 21:18
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4cyl or 6cyl TJ? 6cyl it should bolt right in if you get one from a 96+ xj/zj afaik. You may have to reclock it (involves drilling holes in your transmission output housing) or clearance the floor and/or skidplate, the 242 is a bit more prtly than the 231. I forget if this is required but want to say it isn't. Also you need to modify or swap the shift gate under the console because it needs different shift positions. I am not sure what you would use as a donor. 4cyl I think may still be a 21 spline output from the transmission on TJs, but am not sure. Driveshaft/flange spacings are the same between 231s and 242s in XJs/ZJs and I see no reason this wouldn't hold true in a TJ as well. If it doesn't you may need custom length driveshafts but I would not expect that. kastein fucked around with this message at 21:33 on Dec 15, 2013 |
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Dec 15, 2013 21:31
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Yay! I painted a Jeep! My Jeep, actually. It's been a loooooong time since I've painted anything. Time to throw the hard top back on and raise the price to $6k 
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Dec 16, 2013 02:15
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I am on my way to the junkyard on this fine winter morning to try and score some new seats for the XJ. My driver's seat is so drat shot. Here's to hoping they have a 2 door there so I can get a new passenger side too! Getting excited to try my hand at some legos for adults.
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Dec 16, 2013 13:40
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