|
Well that's news to me.. I knew necromunda and 40k scales had diverged a bit, but for whatever reason it was very entrenched in my head that necromunda was still 28mm, if not slightly smaller... guess working on only Escher and Squat models so far, who tend toward pretty small, I never noticed I had it backward. Thank you!
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2023 17:48
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 13, 2024 07:35 |
|
|
Been about 2 years since I stopped 3d printing after a failed Prusa upgrade. I bought the Ankermate5 for some reason though  After some practice benchy, extrusion width, step calibration I printed a large project for my Steamdeck; a dock that let's you insert an Anker 7 in 1 into it. It's a lesson I keep learning and forgetting. If you printing FDM and you do not have your support spacing/interfacing dead on, do not print the front face downwards.  This is the result after:
About the last item. the results after that step is the PLA I was using was light wood textures color. That means the PLA does have wood particles inside it which also means you get that char look because THERE IS WOOD PARTICLES IN IT. I need to go sand it down a bit more...
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2023 20:35
|
|
|
is there a setting somewhere in cura that will make it not hard lock and recalculate everything when I type 1 character into any setting field? just literally wait 0.7 seconds for me to type all three digits of "100" before utterly running with 1 mm/s as if I was finished typing, gently caress
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2023 04:02
|
|
|
Javid posted:is there a setting somewhere in cura that will make it not hard lock and recalculate everything when I type 1 character into any setting field? just literally wait 0.7 seconds for me to type all three digits of "100" before utterly running with 1 mm/s as if I was finished typing, gently caress This is the main reason I stopped using Cura. Everything is just so sluggish. Unperson_47 fucked around with this message at 04:19 on Jan 23, 2023 |
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2023 04:17
|
|
|
Printer-adjacent: TouchUI seems to be abandoned for Octoprint. I tried Octodash but it doesn't hold a candle to TouchUI - anyone got any good alternatives?
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2023 11:26
|
|
|
Javid posted:is there a setting somewhere in cura that will make it not hard lock and recalculate everything when I type 1 character into any setting field? just literally wait 0.7 seconds for me to type all three digits of "100" before utterly running with 1 mm/s as if I was finished typing, gently caress If it's slicing on the fly every time you change something, Preferences -> Configure Cura -> uncheck "Slice automatically". If it's just being impatient and sometimes grabbing the input before you finish typing, that does seem to be new (buggy) behavior in v5.1+ and it is very annoying.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2023 11:59
|
|
|
gschmidl posted:Printer-adjacent: TouchUI seems to be abandoned for Octoprint. I tried Octodash but it doesn't hold a candle to TouchUI - anyone got any good alternatives? Haven't used those but I've liked octoremote on my phone.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2023 12:53
|
|
|
OK I've got my Neptune 3 working nicely, with Octoprint and a modified Marlin config using fancy features like 'linear advance' and other fun stuff. It's working fine as is, and I don't need to gently caress with it. But... Someone uploaded a klipper config for it https://github.com/bsas/Neptune-Elegoo3-Klipper And now I'm resisting the urge to tinker Like think about it, I could spend several days on marginal improvements in printing quality! And I'd only lose use of the touchscreen! Oh also side note, if you use Marlin's tool to make a linear advance test print, it won't work until you rearrange the initial setup in the gcode. code:Edit: Oh also I have my raspi running triple duty as a pihole, wireguard endpoint, and octoprint server and it would be pretty stupid to try to shove klipper/mainsail into that mess BadMedic fucked around with this message at 02:15 on Jan 24, 2023 |
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2023 02:10
|
|
|
Is this also the thread for laser cutters/engravers? My Cricut wasn't getting through the thin acrylic I want to cut so I broke down and ordered a TT-5.5S and I'm stoked to blind myself.
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2023 16:12
|
|
|
Odoyle posted:Is this also the thread for laser cutters/engravers? My Cricut wasn't getting through the thin acrylic I want to cut so I broke down and ordered a TT-5.5S and I'm stoked to blind myself. Just make sure it's colored acrylic if it's a diode laser. You need CO2 or fiber wavelengths for clear.
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2023 21:03
|
|
|
AlexDeGruven posted:Just make sure it's colored acrylic if it's a diode laser. You need CO2 or fiber wavelengths for clear. Indeed, I have a set of OD 6+ 400nm safety glasses on the way that should exceed the glasses I already own for doing UV lithography. I reckon you're saying that tinted acrylic should be passable for enclosure safety glass? Safety glasses are great but I deffo intend to make an enclosure for first-line safety with inline exhaust fan probably before this thing even arrives (lunar new year an all). edit: dang reading comprehension! the acrylic I'm trying to cut is clear! 1mm thick. 445nm diode laser just gonna refract around clear acrylic instead of cutting through? phooey 
Odoyle fucked around with this message at 21:57 on Jan 24, 2023 |
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2023 21:48
|
|
|
Yep. Clear PMMA (acrylic) is transparent down to about 385nm or so. If it's dyed, the dyes may absorb enough light to get some thermal effects. But the best results will be from a long-wavelength laser like a CO2 tube (10600nm)
|
|
#
?
Jan 24, 2023 22:53
|
|
|
insta posted:You'll probably have to torch it. So i should have waited a bit, before I read your post I took it apart and cleaned it. I am going to get both an .35 another nozzle and I will try a .5 too. I now have an approximately 1mm nozzle. Since I could not get all of the gunk out of the nozzle, and since I decided on getting some new ones anyways, I just drilled it out with the smallest bit I had on hand. So now while I wait for the new ones to arrive I am trying to calibrate the wonky 1mm nozzle for fun, I did a benchy already. It came out better than I expected on the first print. Dropping the hot nozzle in water to clear it out is a great tip for next time! I will order some cleaning floss too. Klipper sounds intriguing, finally something else for my rasberry pi besides playing NES roms.
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2023 01:53
|
|
|
I have started using a mini hook pick over flat blades and exactos to clean up beds (with the former) and nozzles (with the latter) for the beds, you don't need to touch the bed except for one point and you just pull up everything. Mostly for the first layer ,unattached brim it uses to purge. While a flat blade you be easier to do it on go, I don't need to scrape the end length for no reason. Now if your first layer is incorrectly set and is welded to the bed, then I have no suggestion .
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2023 02:05
|
|
|
Just got my Neptune 3 Plus. Instructions don't mention this but the screen has a warning to set the power supply voltage to 115. On the Pro it's a very obvious switch but am I missing it on the plus? Or is it not necessary on this model, like the sticker is just on there for the Pro or something? It's not in the video but it doesn't have the highest production value honestly.
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2023 06:23
|
|
|
At first, the jury was out for a while on my Bambu overall, but it's really grown on me -- especially the AMS. The AMS lets me do color changes without having a manual step, and on my Prusas the nozzle is never quiiiiiiiite fully primed when it hits the first object after a color change & is always just a wee bit underextruded at first. No such issues on the Bambu, it's nice. I really like their slicer's decision to have multiple build plates within a single job. loving awesome feature.
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2023 09:36
|
|
|
I have been getting some incredible prints with my P1P. Started a bunch of mask/helmet builds. First long print was 11.5 hours. Jason X mask. First time using tree supports, have since switched to the new slim tree supports as that was a lot of support to pull off, printed with the included Bambu Matte White PLA. https://imgur.com/a/5q3ETNR Gotham Knight Red Hood helmet 13 hours overture space grey PLA https://imgur.com/a/WEhGRXm And latest print started an Iron Man MK85 helmet 6 hours overture matte black PLA https://imgur.com/a/L6HgJ2i The P1P just works. I’ve yet to have an issue with it and I’m even using cardboard spools in the AMS. All printed at .2 layer height.
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2023 13:23
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:Yep. Clear PMMA (acrylic) is transparent down to about 385nm or so. Yup. The deeper the color, the better chance you have at cutting and engraving neatly. Plenty of people cut black all the time. When I packed up my CO2, I sent all the clear I have upstairs to the CNC build.
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2023 14:22
|
|
|
resin antialiasing. Anyone here actually use it? I havent historically because Ive only ever heard issues, but I havent really been following any advancements in the tech
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2023 15:58
|
|
|
Going to a .6mm nozzle on all my printers has been great, practically 0 loss of detail on prints and it's saving hours for each printer. .6 should really be default for most people
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2023 17:06
|
|
|
w00tmonger posted:resin antialiasing. Anyone here actually use it? I've been using it, though I'm still fairly new with resin printing so I don't really have much constructive to add there. (Haven't done any A/B tests to compare etc, everything just looks great anyhow.) I suspect that one thing people might have had an issue with is that if you have presupported models the AA will smooth them out indiscriminately and weaken the contact points/anchors. (Because the slicer can't distinguish them from the model.) If the supports are made in-slicer, they don't get AA-ed, atleast not in lychee. (Unless you force it.) I imagine it's also one of those things where the issue of presupports getting weakened by AA gets notably less obvious as resolution increases. But I have no idea how much of a quality difference it actually makes unfortunately.
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2023 18:23
|
|
|
mattfl posted:I have been getting some incredible prints with my P1P. Started a bunch of mask/helmet builds. Dang those are some nice prints.
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2023 19:13
|
|
|
Update on the XL Single toolhead finally shipping in March, multi toolhead probably not until summer. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zeIYGN93Tro
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2023 19:45
|
|
|
mattfl posted:Update on the XL Oh hey, they're going for the 0.6mm nozzle as default now apparently. (If I were a cynic, I'd say they did that to make it compare more favorable to Bambu's offerings. But it is a reasonable choice to make for a big factor printer that many customers would be doing anyhow.) Good for them, but it's surprising that the shipping time is approaching and they're just not talking about speed etc. I think I'll be cancelling my reservation because I just don't think I can justify dropping roughly 2x as much as a Bambu C1X with AMS on one of the units myself anymore. (Yes, yes filament wasteage. But I'd generally be printing multi-color stuff rarely, it's just the convenience of having multiple rolls ready + the ability to do layer-swap colors very easily that's appealing to me. And multi-tool-head for that usecase is just overkill.)
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2023 21:08
|
|
|
SubNat posted:I've been using it, though I'm still fairly new with resin printing so I don't really have much constructive to add there. (Haven't done any A/B tests to compare etc, everything just looks great anyhow.) AA really only makes a difference on large, curved surfaces. If anything it obscures tiny details. I’m pretty sure Lychee is smart enough not to do AA on supports now but that also probably means you have to use a real lychee file and not an STL with supports. Regardless, in my experience, it doesn’t make a difference at best, and it craps the supports at worst. No real need for it except in specific cases IMO.
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2023 22:30
|
|
|
SubNat posted:Oh hey, they're going for the 0.6mm nozzle as default now apparently. 0.6 should just be the standard on all printers at this point, honestly. The difference in quality between my mk3 running at 0.6 and my mini running at 0.4 is absolutely negligible, except in the rare case that I'm trying to print a model with super thin walls, and aracne has made that pretty much moot at this point. If Aracne can't handle it, it's probably not even a printable model at that point. 0.6 for all!
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2023 22:48
|
|
|
mattfl posted:Update on the XL Motherfuckers! Give me it already! You've had my 200 dollars for over a year!! Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 22:54 on Jan 25, 2023 |
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2023 22:51
|
|
|
He looks like he's being held hostage at gunpoint. Joseph, blink twice if you're being held hostage.SubNat posted:Oh hey, they're going for the 0.6mm nozzle as default now apparently. (If I were a cynic, I'd say they did that to make it compare more favorable to Bambu's offerings. But it is a reasonable choice to make for a big factor printer that many customers would be doing anyhow.) Multi toolhead sounds great for water soluable raft + whatever it is you're printing; just keep a roll of PVA on the machine for raft/support and away you go. The video is not super clear but I guess he printed PLA + PETG which don't bond well and can use PLA as a much cheaper (non-soluable) support material. Lot of cool options open up. I think 100% of my prints would be a PLA + PETG and then for fancy stuff PVA + Whatever. Surface prep on complex concave models is the worst and severely limits what I want to do with my printer. 0.6mm default is a great idea. Hopefully the offer 0.8 and 1.0mm profiles by default too. Print speed doesn't matter as much once you get to 0.8 as long as it's faster than what's currently available at that price point, IMO. What draws you to the Bambu models Sagebrush posted:Motherfuckers! Give me it already! You've had my 200 dollars for over a year!!  Definitely not cancelling my preorder as I don't think they'll be able to sell the 5 toolchanger at a profit at the current preorder pricing and it'll be an easy flip on ebay if nothing else. I'll probably keep it though.
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2023 23:32
|
|
|
I'd put 0.6 on my machines, except that they are all working very nicely and I don't wanna go changing stuff 0.6 out the gate as factory default tho? That's much more my speed 
|
|
#
?
Jan 25, 2023 23:42
|
|
|
Hadlock posted:What draws you to the Bambu models Well, for one I don't have that much to spend, and the Prusa XL will cost quite a lot more than a fully specced out Bambu, especially when I'm unsure if I'd even use the 2 toolheads much. A p1p or c1x just feels like a way more interesting machine to me, and while they are costly, they're at the upper range of what I'm willing to drop on a printer. They're fast, they seem to print well, and the AMS feels better suited to my interest and actual use. Yes, the XL will probably be the objective best and etc etc, but I just print stuff for fun and to make stuff for my friends. 2000-2500 usd plus 25% tax on top is more than I care to swallow, I've realised.
|
|
#
?
Jan 26, 2023 00:01
|
|
|
I still don't see how 0.6 actually speeds things up, unless you have a high flow rate hot end? Like on my Neptune 3, I've got it maxing out my flow rate on a 0.4 nozzle at only 1/4 of the machine's max rated movement speed. Even if I replaced the hot end with one that doubled the flow rate, I could just double the movement speed, or set it to extrude a fat 0.8mm line and still stick with the 0.4. Like maybe the neptune has a really low flow rate, but it's ~12mm^3/s, which seems on par with most ender clones?
|
|
#
?
Jan 26, 2023 00:07
|
|
|
I don't think the Bambu AMS system is as good as the Prusa toolchanging system for printing different materials simultaneously -- e.g. soluble supports, breakaway PLA/PETG supports, combination flexible/hard material. If your only use case for multiple materials is different colors of the same stuff, then yeah, a toolchanger -- while superior technology -- may be overkill and a filament swapper system will do.
|
|
#
?
Jan 26, 2023 00:57
|
|
|
Multitool sounds pretty interesting for future expansion. You could run a 0.8mm for straight wall sections, and then on upward facing curved surfaces switch to a 0.4 and later 0.2mm nozzle for fine detail work. You'd need three spools of the same color to accomplish that but definitely possible. And then fourth tool for raft support material. A 5th tool for a machining bit to give perfectly flat top surfaces would be interesting but I'm dubious if prusa wants to get into CNC operations any time soo as it sounds like XL R&D is rapidly bankrupting them
|
|
#
?
Jan 26, 2023 01:18
|
|
|
BadMedic posted:I still don't see how 0.6 actually speeds things up, unless you have a high flow rate hot end? A larger nozzle tends to increase max flow, and ender clone hot ends are lower flow than many.
|
|
#
?
Jan 26, 2023 01:18
|
|
|
I have some old filament spools that have just sorta lived in a tote, I keep some large desiccant bags in there but it’s also not completely air tight. Anyhow, I was messing with some and they seem excessively brittle, to the point it was proving difficult to get them started in my printer’s Bowden tube. Are these shot, or is there any reasonable way to rescue them?
|
|
#
?
Jan 26, 2023 04:14
|
|
|
BadMedic posted:I still don't see how 0.6 actually speeds things up, unless you have a high flow rate hot end? I have to agree. I tried a 0.6 nozzle and found that the speed up was not enough to justify the loss of detail. Getting close to the quality of the 0.4 nozzle lead to the the speed being pretty much the same. Switched back to the 0.4 and I am fine with the print time. 99% of the time I am hitting print and walking away for a day so it doesn't usually matter too much. For big stuff I have a printer with a 1mm nozzle and super volcano hot end. This one needs to be fed with a 5kg spool as it will burn through a 1kg in about two hours.
|
|
#
?
Jan 26, 2023 04:20
|
|
|
Bad Munki posted:I have some old filament spools that have just sorta lived in a tote, I keep some large desiccant bags in there but it’s also not completely air tight. Anyhow, I was messing with some and they seem excessively brittle, to the point it was proving difficult to get them started in my printer’s Bowden tube. In my experience the embrittlement is irreversible. You can try drying them in your oven at about 175F/80C and see what happens, but I understand that moisture absorption causes changes to the polymer structure that are permanent even after the water is driven off.
|
|
#
?
Jan 26, 2023 04:22
|
|
|
I have gotten ~ok prints out of partial rolls I had left open for months, which were like trying to feed dry spaghetti into the extruder gears at first. These were still in a climate controlled living space in a relatively dry area, so ymmv if you're in florida or something
|
|
#
?
Jan 26, 2023 04:45
|
|
|
I'm currently in the market for buying my first 3D printer, but have to admit that I'm getting overwhelmed by the large number of available hardware. Hope it's no issue if I'm asking for some advice here. To summarize my case: I really am not 100% certain what I want to print, this is something I'd really like to play around with. When looking at what's people are printing on Youtube, I imagine that my initial goal would be to print things that could help out in the house, like coat hangers, phone holders, etc. I am currently working on a little portable Raspberry Pi project and would love to be able to print a proper shell for it. Some containers, like vases and such, would really be nice. I've recently gotten back into tabletop gaming and it might be neat to also be able to print figurines, although they really don't need to be too detailed. I would prefer to have an enclosed 3D printer and, if possible, require as little effort to put it together as possible. I can work with putting hardware together, I've just never been too comfortable with it and am willing to pay extra to avoid it. Given that it's also a beginner-thing, I would like to have it be as plug-and-play friendly as possible. From the videos that I've seen, I would like to be able to print something within the My budget is up to around 1000E, but would, of course, prefer to spend less. The main printer that seems to tick all my needs is the Creality3D CR-5 Pro, but when I looked around in the Reddit subcommunity, there seemed to be a general idea that anything by Creality should be avoided. I can imagine that I may be asking too much here, but still, would love to have some advice here before I spend any money. Edit: After playing around a bit with size.link, it seems that 400mm is way too large for what I need. Up to 256-300mm would work as well. Baron von der Loon fucked around with this message at 11:59 on Jan 26, 2023 |
|
#
?
Jan 26, 2023 11:39
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 13, 2024 07:35 |
|
|
Baron von der Loon posted:I'm currently in the market for buying my first 3D printer, but have to admit that I'm getting overwhelmed by the large number of available hardware. Hope it's no issue if I'm asking for some advice here. If you want fully enclosed and ease of use out of the box look at the Bambu Lab X1. It ticks all your check boxes.
|
|
#
?
Jan 26, 2023 13:00
|
|